I have a 1997 ford f250 HD with the 460 and auto trans lifted on 38s the motor keeps over heating Im not shear what the problem is I checked the water and thermostat water pump is good when I bout it there is a trace of stop leak in the radiator not shear if that can do any thing.
View 1 RepliesMy 1999 f-250 superduty shows overheating after it runs for awhile but it doesn't actually overheat the gauge just shows it. What it does is drops down to four cylinders. Is my heads blown or could it be something else it has 260,000 on the engine.
View 2 RepliesMy battery light on the dash came on so I tested the battery and it's OK. The last time the truck was started it was 10 degrees and ran for about 3 minutes and shut off because I knew the alternator had to come out. Next I pulled the alternator and had it tested and found to be bad. It was rebuilt and put back in along with a new belt. The motor cranks over well but will not fire. I checked the fuel pump shut off switch and it had not popped up so it seemed fine. The fuses look ok. I ran the battery down a bit so I put the charger on it to bring it up to full charge. When I pulled the alternator I touched it's battery wire to metal for a split second. Sounds like I need to do a pressure test on the fuel system or listen to see if the pump is starting. The truck has 130,000 miles on it.
View 14 RepliesI just bought this truck for a pretty good price it has 225000 on it the engine was over heating. The guy put new rad, new water pump, new fan clutch, and a new heater core with thermostat. The truck still over heated so I pulled the thermostat to see what happens and the truck over heats even faster. All this happens while driving regardless of ac on or off. I got a motor and put a motor in it with all new pump and thermostat. I put new coolant in and flush radiator. I cut a hole in the cat to see if the cat was plugged for the truck seems to have low power and sputters. With in 1mile the truck over heated dumping all the coolant out of the system which the truck did as well before. Will the diesel rad work in this truck I have a diesel one I can put in since its a bigger rad?
View 14 RepliesMy truck all of the sudden started overheating when running idle or at low speeds. No towing or anything with 89 degrees outside it can hit max water temp in matter of 2 minutes once at running temperature and standing on red light. I checked the coolant level - looks good and changed the thermostat just in case, but the problem is still happening. The fan is running/kicking in as well when it gets hot.
I'm waiting for OBD2 plug to read the stats from the computer, but what else would you suggest I can check for issues ? Oil temp gets to about 222 and transmission to about 194, but it doesn't keep on increasing. One another thing I noticed is that when I have AC running it will actually pop a overheating message on the display (I don't continue to drive it at that point) and when it gets hot it seems as if it didn't have much power.
I don't know if this is connected, but about two months ago it started blowing black smoke when starting from red light or stop sign or when accelerating with gear reduction. It is a 6.7 diesel one and only has 60k miles on it, so I'm hoping its nothing major.
I just bought a 95 f250 4x4 with the 460. The guy i bought it from had a trans slipping towed it to the shop when the shop went to pull it in they started it put in gear and engine died. The motor is now tight w no movement either direction with a bar obo it. Is it possible the trans is holding the motor tight? What can I do?
View 10 RepliesMy Blower motor is intermittently going on and off. After messing with it for a while it seems to stay on. Motor may be going out. Not real easy to change the blower motor on this 2008. Haynes manual says to take the 2008 and up trucks to the dealer.
2008 F250 4DR 5.4L
I am having some trouble with my 4R100 overheating.
Truck is a 2001 F250 XLT 7.3L with 244k miles on it. According to previous owner, the transmission was replaced around 185/190k but there was no paperwork to prove it.
I recently had a leak from one of transmission lines coming into the bottom of the radiator (the one on the passenger side). I replaced it and topped off the little bit of fluid that leaked out. Last weekend I installed a temp sensor in the transmission and hooked it up to my pillar gauges. The first few days driving with it, the temp was at/around 180 degrees, 25-30 degree outside air, unloaded on the highway averaging 70-75mph.
Today on the way home, the temp got to 180 after 35-40min of driving then continue climbing. I pulled off the highway after 1.5hrs and the temp was almost at 210 degrees. I let it idle for 5-10min and the temp didn't change. I turned it off and let it sit for 15 min. Upon starting it back up, the temp had dropped to 180. I continued driving and the temp climbed back up to 210 within 35 minutes. (65-75mph, 24 degree outside temp, unloaded). Once off the highway I averaged 35-45mph on the back roads to my house. The temp started to drop back towards 180 degrees.
Before I start throwing money at it, and installing a 6.0 cooler etc. I am thinking there is something else wrong here. I am going to look at new lines and replacing/repairing the bypass valve on the transmission. I am driving 2hrs to work each way and thats when the temp really starts to go up. The fluid doesnt smell burnt, its still nice and red. I am going to try and flush the lines this weekend and see if something is plugged/caught. I ordered an inline filter today and will put that in with a new hose from the transmission to the radiator (old one is rusted).
I have and 07 F250 and the #2 speed for the blower motor don't work (hasn't since I bought it) I read that the most common cause of this is the resistor under the hood on the firewall so I replaced that and still no 2nd speed??? Where I look next? Motor itself maybe?
View 11 RepliesA buddy of mine has a 99 F250, and the 4WD stopped working. The 4wd light in the dash does not turn on with the key with the rest of the lights. There is a Low Range light that does turn on. He took it to a shop/dealership and they said the vacuum was good. They also swapped in a different GEM module, which didn't change anything.
I swapped the relays under the hood - no change. I keep reading that there is a two wire plug on the transfer case I can test for voltage or to manually power the motor. Where is it? I see two plugs - the blue one on the left has 4 wires, the black one has more. Or is that not the shift motor I need to be looking for?
My dad has a 04 f250 5.4 auto. The motor turns over but very slow and will not start. He's put two new starters on. I went and looked at it and figured it was loose cables or corrosion, but it was fairly clean, and tight. We decided to pull the battery out of his van that he drives everyday, and I cleaned everything very good. Same thing. Pulled the belt to make sure nothing was lockup, same thing. Truck was running and starting great, then just did this one morning on him.
View 9 RepliesMy HVAC blower motor stopped today while the wife was driving the F250. I thought I should swap relays (with the heated mirror relay - same Ford Part Number) to rule it out or identify it as the culprit. However, since these are close to the firewall, I have a hard time getting the grip and leverage to pull the relay out of the Battery Junction Box (BJB). How to make this a bit easier?
View 5 RepliesPicked up a new to me 2011 F250 Lariat. She had a few odds and ends to take care of, but I was ok with that. So far I fixed the reverse sensors (2 were out) creaking in the back (leaf spring bushings needed a little Lithium Grease) Squeak in the back (tailgate step needed a little greasing). Now on to my next problem!
This is my first 6.2l (first f250 in general). Truck starts up great and idles quite. Taking off driving, it sounds loud as hell under the hood. To me it sounds like the Fan is making a loud sound as the motor is accelerating. It is more noticeable when you really floor it. Prior to this I owned a 2010 F150 and I know stomping on it the motor really revs up, but this other sound to me isn't right/normal. Googling around, the closest I found to it was:
Loud "Air" Sound Upon Accelerating 2002 FORD EXPEDITION - fan clutch! - YouTube
Granted it's for an expedition, but the sound is damn near identical. Looking on youtube at 1 or 2 videos of a f250 doing a 0-60 all I heard was the sound of the motor revving, so that has me convinced the sound I'm hearing is not normal. I'm 99% convinced it has to be the fan clutch.
160,000 miles and cylinder 7 is dead and 3 is dying, valves probably with rings right behind. Is it better to rebuild or buy a crate motor? Buying a crate motor, will a 5.0 fit? Should I spend the 5 or so grand beefing up this one, dropping in a 302 or putting it toward a newer model?
View 2 RepliesSo...I'm dealing with a leaking passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2001 F250 SD. (Extended cab, long bed, 5.4 XLT.) Been slowly making progress on getting the manifold bolts off (the ones that weren't broken already at least.) Got all the top row off and the flange free yesterday, today was on to the bottom row.
I undid the 2 bolts on the PS motor mount studs and carefully jacked up the motor to lift that side a bit. I couldn't figure out anywhere else so I put a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan and used that point to lift up with the truck's bottle jack.
Worked well enough, but when I decided to call it a night I lowered it back down. Looking at one of the studs that I could watch as I moved it, the mount came to rest about an inch and a half away from where it started. (Higher up on the slant.)
How much does this matter? If the position is critical, how can I go about getting it back to the starting point?
I have a feeling the fact that I'm working in my uneven, unloved driveway had a lot to do with this. The passenger side is raised slightly and on a jack stand. Just enough to get the wheel on and off for access through the well.
On a positive note, I only have one more bolt to remove to free the manifold, the one right above the mount. I couldn't get anywhere with my nut extractors so I finally started grinding away at the nut with my Dremel. Should be able to get the old manifold off tomorrow and start working to get the studs out.
My Irwin Bolt Grips worked a treat combined with a MAP Pro torch on the others, but not so much on the hardest to reach one. Go figure. For starters there just isn't enough room to get a good solid hammer blow on it to seat it, and to make things way more complicated for some reason that particular location had more exposed stud length, so I couldn't get it all the way on to the nut and still get a ratchet wrench into the other end too.
Did a tune up on 97 F250 5.8: plugs, wires, rotor button, cap. Truck ran after that, ran all next day and then shut off after sitting for about 30 minutes, had it towed home, put on new coil. Nothing. Found I have no spark. Have not replaced the distributor, have checked fuses that seem to make sense...all good. Self employed, very busy, so troubleshooting is a slow process right now, having to drive my F550 7.3, would really like my gas burner back.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 f-250 heavy duty with the 7.3 I have been having problems with very aggressive and hard shifting. While it is acting up the overdrive light on the shifter blinks. This problem goes away and it might be good for a month or so, But it always comes back. I have had it to a professional trans tech, He replaced a part on the side of the tranny. I thought it was fixed, But now it is acting up again.
View 4 RepliesIs it possible to put a 7.3 ltr from a 1997 van in my 2004 f250.....6.0 has cost me my fair share and would like to swap, 7.3 was giving to me because body is smashed i know engine is good , runs and drives
View 3 RepliesI have a ford f250 1997 with a 5. 4 triton engine in I bought a 02. 5.4. Out if a ford expedition he said it would fit but my mechanic is not sure . Would the engine out if the 02 fit in the 1997 and what would need to be done.
View 7 RepliesMy 1997 250hd has the 5.8 we have rep[laced the cap,rotor,iac,tps,plugs and wires about to do the fuel filter and drop one of the tanks and change out the pump,also has a new fuel regulator. What could be making it choke out under acceleration...
View 3 RepliesI have recently bought a 1997 F250 XL and i have a steering problem. It has a lift with 35" tires on it. Its not extreme but fairly mild. But everytime i turn slowly in either forward or reverse the edges of my tire seem to roll under itself or something. It seems like the outside of my tire or inside will catch the road when i make tight turns in and out of parking spots. I can see the outside edge of my tires becoming worn and starting to take small chunks out of it. And when i turn the truck will bog down and i will have to give it some gas just to get it to move. I cannot figure out the problem. I have engage and disengaged the 4 wheel drive numerous times and it still does this.
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