I recently bought a van that has a hard shift problem. It is a 1995 E350 with a diesel. If I take off from a stop without babying the throttle, the shift from first to second is very hard. Second to third is hard but not as violent. What might be happening?
View 9 RepliesSo I have a 1995 f-250 4x4 with the 460 and a E4od. So when I bought the truck I drive it two hours home and when I got into town it started shifting really hard and searching for gears. So I flushed it and installed a new oil filter because the oil in it was brown. Very brown. And smelled awful. So it shifts good, but what's happening now is that it shifts good in drive when it wants to.
In the morning it works great but when I get in it to leave after school it shifts really late (around 2900 rpm) and hard. So I put it in first and then into second but when it's time for third and I put it in drive it shifts back to first. But if I stop shut it off for a few minutes and turn it back on it works fine. It only does this after it's been sitting in the school parking lot all day. I replaced the mlps but not the connector due to I didn't have time at the moment. Could it be the tps? Something mechanical?
The tranny is shifting really hard between 2 and 3 if I feather the throttle it can be a little less of a jolt but still enough none the less iv never done a filter and fluid change as I just got it it has 235000 miles 99 v10 super duty 4x4....
View 8 RepliesRecently I have had an issue with my auto which was just rebuilt. About 500 kays after i picked it up it shifts dangerously hard and immediately into all gears at around 20-40 mph, converter also locks immediately. The speed sensor in the box was replaced with the rebuild but I'm having it replaced again this thursday just in case.
Just for the record I cooked it on the beach a while back, the speed sensor was replaced with the rebuild as it was doing the above, the od light also flashes when this occurs, before and after the rebuild.
Prior to cooking it never had an issue.
What could be causing it? I'm starting to worry it cant be fixed, have done a google and tried a couple of things mentioned. Code says wiring issue associated with speed sensor in box.
I have a 1997 f-250 heavy duty with the 7.3 I have been having problems with very aggressive and hard shifting. While it is acting up the overdrive light on the shifter blinks. This problem goes away and it might be good for a month or so, But it always comes back. I have had it to a professional trans tech, He replaced a part on the side of the tranny. I thought it was fixed, But now it is acting up again.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 ford f250 with the 7.3l diesel. I recently installed a ts performance chip. On my pcm. And after i first tried all the different stages I didn't like how my transmission was shifting hard. So I contacted the manufacturer and he told me they could reprogram the chip for smoother shifting. So I removed the pcm and removed the chip. But when I went to reinstall the pcm I bent one of the pins on the pcm some how.
So I took it back out and straightened the pin with pliers . i reinstalled it back in the truck. Only to find when I reattached the battery cable I have no power to anything ignition ,horn, lights,Cigarette lighter etc. So my question is if the pcm is bad, or not contacting properly due to the pin being messed up. would that have anything to do with the lights and horn and all that? I suspect its the gem bsm or Vsm. Whichever one my truck has. But really not sure because everything worked fine just 20 min b4.
I have a 2011 F-350 6.2L that has extremely hard shifts from 3 to 4 going up and 2 to 1 going down. Sometimes on downshifts it feels like something has ran into the back of the truck. I had the computer updated when the truck had approximately 40,000 miles on it and he assisted a little bit. The truck now has 140,000 miles and it is back to shifting horribly. I put it in the shop at the dealer on 30 December 2013. The dealer says that the problem is that the shift solenoids need to be replaced but that they are not available. The truck is still sitting at the dealer and I am being told that the parts should be available mid February.
View 10 RepliesI have been having hard shifting from 1st-2nd when cold. Rpms up to 2000 and let off then goes into 2nd. After that, she shifts fine and shifts well until next morning when she sits overnight. Build tag is August 09, 2001, so no old mechanical diode? Took a sample of fluid and it is dark red (pic attached) and smells like hydraulic fluid...I don't think it smells burned. Does it sound like the calve body 1-2 shift or solenoid pack or needing rebuild?
View 3 RepliesMy buddy's 2001 7.3L F350 has had 3 transmissions. Rebuilt and used. Once the new trans is in he goes like 15 miles and then is starts shifting hard and grinding gears. What this could be?
View 8 RepliesWell shoot, not even 120k on the odo and I've had my first major problem with the truck, and the one thing I hoped wouldn't be an issue, especially since I don't work my truck hard and 95% is driving unloaded highway as a daily driver.
Last time I drove it coming home from grocery store there was a big racket from down under (transmission area). It instantly didnt feel right - there was a slight drag even when the clutch was in, but rolled fine when I pulled it out of gear entirely. Was VERY difficult to go into first gear. Other gears shifted ok but some of them felt hard too. Would not go into reverse at all!. Slight bit of clinking noises every time I started from a stop, but made it home ok and things seemed to ease up as I went. Today, seems to be shifting fine, reverse works and everything.
Now for several years I've had a noise that I couldn't figure out. I am guessing it's related because it sounded like was coming from tranny area. Often, when starting out from a stop, there was a bit of clinking noise like a couple tin pie pans rattling together just as the clutch started to go. I kept thinking it was loose heat shield or something clanking just under the initial vibration of getting going. Never did find anything loose. I'm guessing it's internal.
I've called a couple local shops and so far no one wants to mess with it. Dam this sucks i hoped the MT would be more reliable, not the first thing to go. I myself have never messed with any aspect of a transmission, though I not opposed to learn however I was hoping to take this on an out of state trip end of May, and I'm not going to have much any free time between now and then.
Just got the transmission rebuilt in my truck and other then shifting hard sometimes it has been doing great, Hooked it up to the goose neck this evening and everything was fine then went to back it up and pull it forward and after a short distance the od light was flashing and when i ran a check on it it was p0720? The transmission has less then 1000 miles on it?!?!? 1999 Ford F-250 7.3 Automatic....
View 5 RepliesI have a 97 F350 5.8 with E40D trans. I bought the truck with it shifting hard thinking maybe a simple filter/fluid change would fix it. It may have worked a little but did not fix the issue. There were 3 or 4 codes that I have already cleared up with new parts. I am still getting a 327 (something with EGR?) and 629 (Converter clutch control circuit failure). These show up in KOEO and KOER self test. The O/D does not flash ( bulb does work).
Parts that have been replaced: VSS, MLPS, new connector going into solenoid pack (tabs were broken), TPS. Removed the trans wiring harness and there is no damage or loose connections. When I replaced the solenoid connector I noticed there was some trans fluid in the connection. I cleaned it the best I could and reinstalled with dielectric grease.
The truck runs fine and shifts in and out of every gear fine its just shifting hard. If I unhooked the battery it will shift perfect for 5-10 minutes but then the hard shifting returns.
The only other thing I can find with my research is maybe the solenoid pack needs replaced. I figured if I take it somewhere they are going to want to rebuild/replace transmission. It seems like it can't be something very major since it will shift fine when reset...
My 99 7.3 has had a vibration / shake in cab as you rev up while in park in neutral around 1000 RPM -1700 mostly. Around 1500-1600 is the worst. At idle it seems fine and what you would expect from a 7.3 but then as you give it higher idle, it starts shaking cab and you can physically see seats start shaking and it all feels rough. It also translates to a vibration while driving in those RPMS down the road... It has new injectors, transmission/ torque converter, HPOP, exhaust and a whole lot more.......
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 e350 with a 6.0 lt. diesel and an automatic trans. The problem is when its cold there is no power ( 10 mph max ). When it warms up it does just fine. The other problem witch I think is connected is when it shifts I lose all power to my gauges and radio for a split second. I am thinking transmission but not sure.
View 2 Replies1999 E-350 Super Duty (figured the problem would be the same for van/truck)
Problem: Backup lights don't turn on when in reverse.
Diagnosis: Changed the fused (because it was bad) but didn't fix it. The bulbs are both good. Brake lights, turn signals all work. I understand the backup lights are connected to the Neutral Sensor Switch. To test to see if the NSS was working, I put the van in Reverse and cranked... Van didn't crank (and likewise for D, 1-3).
So I guess the Neutral Sensor Switch works. The fuse works. The bulbs are good. Haynes doesn't have much as far as troubleshooting for this issue. What should I look at from here?
I have a E350 5.4 with 200,000 miles and it ran great before winter, this spring I fire it up and it got a miss I drive it anyway it starts to clear up and now the 1289 code. Everything looks fine coolant engine temp. I wonder if you can bypass the Cylinder Head Temp sensor. I am thinking the engine management is causing the miss to cool the engine.
View 3 RepliesI had a post a couple of months ago about this E350 van I purchased with the 7.3. It would leave me stranded every few weeks and I replaced the injector oil pressure sensor and the camshaft position sensor. This truck has a intermittent running problem that cannot be pinned down to hot or cold.
It runs and idles well but sometimes during acceleration it will start to flatten out and smoke out the exhaust. Giving more accelerator pedal powers through the flat spot and the truck runs smooth. It does not do it every time. It does it hot or cold, wet or dry, city or highway, If this was a gas engine I would be replacing the fuel pump or checking a fuel starvation issue but the white smoke tells me that it has unburned fuel.
A cylinder contribution test passes fine. I monitored engine data with a Snap On Verus pro and compared oil pressures with another 03 7.3 I have and they are too close to the same. It starts fine, no issues there. It may take off great one time and buck and smoke the next. I swapped out the throttle position sensor with the other 7.3 and no change. I swapped out the injector control module and no change.
I've thought about injector Orings but I would think the problem would be consistent. I've changed engine oil, checked fuel pressure, changed fuel filter, and drained the fuel system to be sure no water is in the separator. This engine was rebuilt about 30k miles ago. If you floor the accelerator in park it will rev up, flatten out, smoke and buck for about 2-3 seconds, and then take off like normal. I pulled a trailer with it a couple of days ago and wasn't impressed at all. I have a 6.5 GM that seems to have more power than this.
I thought maybe a sticking injector and I added a half gallon of two cycle oil to the fuel to see if that might work. It hasn't. It just seems like it is flooding at a certain rpm and clears itself after a couple of seconds. There are no codes being thrown in the pcm. I am at a loss.
I have a 2006 E350 van, just recently had passenger side injectors replaced along with dummy plugs and stand pipes. I was at the car was spraying it off and noticed it started running rough, just figured maybe some water made its way into the engine bay and something got wet as it was running great. Well its stayed that way and i am getting codes p0264 and p0276. Digging around on the net seems like its ficm or wiring, ficm is 48 volts and 13.5 volts, connectors are on tight and i dont see any wire chaffing kinda stumped. hoping its not 2 bad injectors at once.
View 2 RepliesSo I was driving earlier this morning and I noticed my overdrive light blinking, I didn't think much of it since I know the multi-function switch is bad and I haven't had time to change it yet, but a while later I was accelerating and just before it would shift from 2nd to 3rd it went to neutral. I played with the shifter a bit and found that if I shifted the column to 2nd I could drive in second, not a problem being only 3-4 miles from home.
I did a bit of digging and found I had blown the OBD2 fuse and saw a few people mention fuses as a possible shifting problem, Replaced that and still having issues. I have found that if i start out in drive I can shift into 2nd on the column then at the proper rpm put it back up into drive for 3rd and 4th. I just had the transmission re-built 400 miles ago and it is under warranty but I want to make sure it's not a computer or some other sensor before I call and bitch to them. I saw a couple posts referring to the shift solenoid but the problem was different.
I have a 94 E350 with a 7.3 diesel. I took it to the Ford dealership to have a new fuel filter and oil change when I got it back the OD light was flashing and transmission shifting hard. They tell me they cannot find a problem could they have possibly knock a wire off of something to make this happen...
View 3 RepliesI have a 99 7.3 F350 with 5 speed manual with over 300,000 miles. Grinds bad shifting into 3rd, and nothing happens in 4th. I think it is a S5-47-ZF. Is a 6 speed manual comparable to bolt up to bell housing?
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