I'm getting a random 'no start' fault which I think is related to a clutch position switch. The dealer tells me the clutch pivot bushing and master cylinder push rod are worn out, which is causing the switch not to close when the clutch pedal is depressed.
1993 F-350 7.3L Diesel 5 Spd 4x4, Std Cab, 8 Box.
I have an '03 F250 and the second position of the blower switch doesn't work. The first, third, and fourth are all fine.
I bought a Motorcraft YH-1670 blower switch, but can't figure out where it's located?
I looked behind the glove box, but didn't see it there. I did not remove the screws to the cover behind the glove box because I wanted to first confirm where the switch is located.
I have a 2008 f250 with 6.4. Was sitting my truck with key on and motor off listening to radio on lunch and my wipers came on by themselves. Switch was in off position and we're in slow speed. If I turn switch they wouldn't change speed til high position. Turned key off and back on and they came on still. Pulled 30 amp fuse in battery junction box to shut them off.
View 3 RepliesI've looked at this 10 ways to Sunday, but the play on words have me questioning if it is the same thing. My truck says Tire Pressure Monitor Fault. I have a 2011 F350, if that makes a difference. I checked all my tires, they are about 80psi each, front and back. What could be the problem? Is it something to take to a Ford Dealer or something I can fix myself?
View 7 Replies2002, F250, 5.4L, ZF-6 trans.
Ok...today by accident turned the key with the truck in gear and clutch not depressed...much to my surprise the truck tried to start and lurched forward.
Is this a sign of a failing clutch safety switch or Could it be an ignition switch problem? Anything else that I am not thinking of?
Just got a new-to-me 2006 F350 Super Duty XL with the 5.4L V8 and 5-speed auto. I haven't had a full-size truck in a few years and forgot what I was missing!
When I bought the truck, all gauges were inoperative except for the fuel and oil pressure gauges. The previous owner told me they would work intermittently and at some point just stopped. The usual warning lights - ABS, CEL, and "the wrench" - were all lit, and from Googling and searching this forum, it looked like an easy fix - probably a pinched or frayed shifter wire, or possibly a cluster repair.
I took it home and did a self test on the gauges. The "sweep gauges" made everything swing fine, so I was thinking it might not be a problem in the cluster. I pulled the steering column apart, removed the Tow/Haul overdrive wire from the plastic retainer, re-ran it with some slack, taped the end where it comes out of the shifter (even though I saw no breaks/frays) cleaned the connections, gave it a dollop of dielectric grease in the connector, and put it all back together. VOILA - GAUGES and no warning lights! You can imagine the touchdown dance in the driveway.
Fast forward a few weeks and....back to no gauges and warning lights lit. Figuring the overdrive wire had finally given up, I ordered and installed a replacement shifter figuring it was an easy and cheap fix. No joy - same problem. Tried cleaning and reseating the connection. Nothing. I've searched FTE like mad and it seems like 95% of the problems are with the wire exiting the shifter fraying and/or blowing a fuse, but this is a new shifter. I've also checked fuses #2, #24, #33, #36, #41, and #45 (some referenced #19 but I don't have a fuse there). All were unbroken - just put them back in and reseated firmly. I did a code pull via OBD2 and have a "rear catalytic efficiency degraded" code...not sure if that's related, but figured I just had an exhaust issue.
I may take the dash cover off and try to clean and reset the connections on the gauge cluster, as well as do the same for the PCM. Is it possible that the tow/haul overdrive wire to the PCM (where the shifter connects to) is bad? How to test and/or replace if it comes up bad?
So I scored a real deal on a set of Michelin on same size 17" OEM wheels that were taken off a brand new 2017 F-250 at about 100 miles. I installed them on my F-350 and had no faults show up. The tires had been marked as to which corner they had come off of so I put them on the same corners of my truck.
After driving about 50 miles I got a "Tire Pressure Monitor Fault" code. I pulled out my owner's manual and followed the relearning procedure exactly but I get the two beeps and the fail retry message from the left front. I have tried three times and get the same result.
Looking for info if the 2017 F-250 sensors are compatible with the 2011 F-350? Have I overlooked something? I habitually manually check my tires anyway, is there a way to disable the TPMS? Is it time for the dreaded trip to the dealer?
I was running tire chains on my front end and broke the wires going to the wheel (I know ,not smart) . Immediately Service AdvanceTrac, Hill Descent fault, ABS light came on. I took it in to a shop and they repaired the wires but lights are still on and won't clear. Buttons on the dash wont work either. Messed up the sensors maybe?
View 1 RepliesOn my 2008 SD F350 my number 1&2 settings on the fan don't work. Only 3&4. What's the problem? How do i fix it?
View 8 Replies1999 F350 Crewcab 4x4 dually V10. Fan switch only works on High. All fuses and relays look Good. Is it a bad speed control switch? What can it be?
View 8 RepliesI have the ford upfitter switches in my 07 f350 and i had two flashing lights wired to switch 4 (10 amps) for snow plowing. The lights were LED and shouldn't have drawn much power but suddenly the lights stopped working because thers no power going to the fourth switch. They work on all the other switches. What could be the problem?
View 5 RepliesQuestion: How easy is it to replace the key switch - do I need any special tools? Is there a way to upgrade to one which requires an encrypted RFID key? Or is there an easier fix to my problem below?
Background: On my '05 SD, I am getting a weird problem where the ignition switch chimes Key-In sometimes when there is no key. I can get this to go away by fidgeting with the key switch, but since I am going to be installing a remote start / security system, I need to fix this...
The heater blower in my 1999 F350 continues to run after the switch is turned off. I checked the relay and it is working properly. Looking for a wiring diagram showing the control circuit for the blower?
Do the heater switch controls power to the relay coil or if the switch grounds the coil to pick up the relay?
My power door locks just started acting up. The driver's side switch will not do anything. The passenger's side switch will lock both doors, but it will not unlock them. Is this a switch issue or the actuator? I am assuming the issue is on the drivers side only and am leaning towards the drivers side switch. With that said, I read about a lot of issues with actuators on these truck which makes me think it may be the actuator? Would the doors still lock if the actuator was toast? If it would, why doesn't the driver's side switch work? I tried replacing the driver's side actuator but it made no difference. I also swapped the driver's and passenger's switches and it does the same thing. The passenger locks only and the driver does nothing.
View 10 RepliesI just picked up my 2007 F350 as a replacement for my 2003 F350 (still have the 2003). I really like the uplifter switch option on the truck, I can normally figure things out but I am one of those people who is electrically challenged (home and auto)and also am one who does not wish to butcher the new ride (same for the home)to gain an education in the art of wiring. I would like to reinstall my headache rack lights on this truck as they are needed for winter work. I was in my truck manual and the info for wiring is weak and the website did not respond nor did my email to ford. I have found the wire harness but it is not tagged as a pair/color to switch. I have the lights already grounded to the rack, so I am thinking I just need the hot wire from the switch. Looking for the color code for positive and ground for the switches.
View 14 RepliesI am putting work lights and LED warning lights on the back rack of the 2014 F350 diesel in work. Where are the wires for the upfitter switches, and are they prewired into the fuse box, or do i have to hook them up?
View 7 RepliesI picked up a 2014 F350 CC a couple months ago and have finally driven it in the evening. I went to turn on the first row map lamps and the light did not illuminate. I could turn it on with all of the interior lights, but not just a single map lamp. It also works when the door is opened or the RKE unlocks the truck.
View 2 RepliesSo I have an 02 f350 and I just recharged the ac system today. At first the clutch wouldn't engage, I tried tapping it and nothing. Then when I went to pull it out of the garage I left it in park to close the garage doors and I could hear it locking and unlocking.
I checked the voltage at the plug and am barely getting half a volt but it still doesn't lock up when I apply direct power to it. I didn't mess with the shims because I do not believe that to be the issue.
After I had shut the truck down and started it back up the clutch wouldn't engage at all. Do I just need to run the system or what? Its working just not consistently, I was thinking the oil needed to be recalculated a bit.
I have a 2004 F-350 V8. The bed has been removed and it has a small dump body. This is the problem that just randomly started with my lights:
The headlights, dome lights, and tail light illuminate - the rear lights do not illuminate when the headlight switch is on. Otherwise, the brake lights work, the reverse lights work, the four ways work, and the turn signals work.
I checked the ground and believe it to be okay - What am I missing and where do I start?
2004 f350 sensor switch will now and then let me turn it "on", but turns itself off immediately. Has never worked since I owned truck.
View 1 Replies I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.