Ford - Ranger :: Stalled When Put Car In Neutral To Coast
Feb 6, 2015
In my 98 Ford Ranger, 4 cyl. manual, was driving up a 6% grade on the freeway, about 60mph for about ten minutes when i reached the top and began on a downhill grade. i let off the gas and put it in neutral to coast and then i looked down and it had stalled in neutral. i put it in gear to jump start it, it wouldn't fire back up. so i pulled to the shoulder. it wouldn't key start either. towed to mechanic, code read cam sensor. he also did a comp test and # 2 and 3 cyl were lacking comp. so the mechanic thinks the lack of comp is more serious than just the cam sensor, he thinks it might be the head. so my question is, can the cam sensor get far enough out of time so there would be no comp?
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I'm very puzzled by how prius (2008) decides whether to use gas when I coast with neutral (I only do that if there is a long stretch of the road that is going down the hill). Same roads, same driving style, but sometimes, the gas usage goes to 0 but sometime it continue to use gas. Sometimes if you just let it in the gear a little longer or just press the gas pedal, it would go 0 after switching to neutral. There is no consistency that I can come up with the best method to get it to not to use gas and just slide using the gravity and momentum.
I can understand if it has to fill up the battery but when it uses gas at neutral, no transfer of energy among all parts. The diagram (wheel, engines, battery) shows standstill but it still uses gas. I don't have air on and turn the fan to the lowest and it doesn't make any difference.
A few conclusions I had:
It will always use a little gas at highway speed (55 to 70mph).
It appears to use gas at higher humidity (not sure but the MPG is higher when it's humid).
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I've got a 2004 1.8t GLI. I recently developed a problem where the car will idle very poorly at random times, where it goes down to 500, jumps up to a 1000, and continues that and eventually levels out. Also, occasionally while I am driving and put it in neutral to coast, the engine will die. This has also happened at stop signs/red lights. I had it scanned via VCDS, and the only two codes that popped up were running lean, and an n249 code. I already changed the MAF out, changed the alternator. Where to go next.
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Im curious if this is normal or not. When I'm driving and I put my car into neutral to coast, the idle speed is at around 900rpm. When I come to a stop, the idle will drop to around 650rpm. Is this a design feature? I wish the rpm would drop more to conserve on gas while I'm coasting!
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I had the universal joints replaced on my 1999 Ford Ranger now it vibrates badly starting at 45 mph and when I coast at 65 mph the vibration is very significant. The mechanic does not know what is causing this. I never had this problem before changing the U-Joints and I have 171,000 miles on the truck.
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I came home last night and rolled into the driveway. With the car in neutral I took my foot off the clutch and the car stalled. I get in the car this morning to go to work, and it's still happening. I put it in reverse to see if it will drive.....and now it's stuck in reverse.
I can't get it into any other gear or neutral..........even when the car is off. I've unattached the linkage, and the shift knob moves freely.....so I don't think it's that. I found these old threads (one even mine)
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So I'm lead to believe that the master/slave cylinder is acting up again. Also, how can I get it into neutral so I can at least get it towed and stop blocking my driveway?
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I have a 1997 Ranger,4.0,4WD,auto,extended cab. It's always been a great truck. wouldn't start yesterday . I thought the battery was dead , put it on charger and it started right up today. It ran for about ten seconds, started rattling like crazy , stalled and now it won't turn over. Has 150,000 miles on it. Just had oil changed, No ticking or anything else. Drove it every day, just came back from 1000 mile trip.
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I recently replaced the powered side-view mirror on my 2001 Ford Ranger. It adjusts in all directions, but it stops ("bumps") before it adjusts inward as far as we need it to go. Is there any way to adjust the neutral position of the mirror?
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"95, 2.3L, automatic. Stalls for a couple of seconds and nearly dies when shifting from drive to neutral or from drive to park. Doesn't do it when cold at high idle or when AC is on. It catches back up and idles fine but nearly dies when coming out of drive. Installed a new idle air control valve but no change.
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My low miles (under 50k) 1999 Ranger has a 5-speed manual transmission. One morning, I could not move it. The shift lever shifted, but the gears were locked. No forward, no reverse, and it wouldn't roll in neutral. Eventually, I popped the clutch, and, with a loud BANG! restored itself.
Background: I had rolled the car up tot the curbing in my driveway, so the wheels touched, then shut it off (in gear) and finally set the emergency brake. I'm guessing that this caught the gears in a way that caused the problem.
Yes, it's running just fine now. What happened?
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Rebuild on the Mazda 5 speed transmission. My 1986 Ranger 2.3 Four cylinder has 280,000 miles and the clutch has never been replaced. It's not slipping but I'm having trouble getting it into gear from neutral. Was told that the release springs on the clutch plate have weakened causing the clutch to not release completely so figured it's time to replace it. It's done well the last 280,000 miles. The question I have : overhauling on one of these Mazda trans and how difficult was it. Any special tools required, etc...I see Autozone has a rebuild kit which appears to have bearings, seals and gaskets. Figured while it was out I would go ahead and rebuild it myself if I can. Rebuilt a few engines but never touched a trans.
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I just came across a deal on a 93 E350 motorhome for dirt cheap. It has a whine at 50 mph and believe its the rear end. The whine is under throttle not coast.
There is a tag on the axle housing that reads :
4:10 a diamond shape 2US AC
760553
Is this a Dana 60? Looks like a Dana.
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Last weekend my 95 F350 developed an issue where it feels like something in the transmission is dragging in reverse and it moves forward in neutral. This happened suddenly. One minute it was working fine and the next it was acting up. I found some info that leads me to believe that it might be the coast clutch solenoid causing the problem. Today I tested the resistance of the coast clutch solenoid through the PCM connector. I used pin 55 and pin 37 to test it. The resistance is supposed to be between 20 and 30. I got 0. My meter read the same as putting the leads together.
Am I correct in thinking that I need a new solenoid pack or at least a coast clutch solenoid?
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I have a 2000 F-150 4x4 with a 5.4 engine. On two different occasions, I have been driving down the highway about 70 miles an hour down a slight grade in OD. When I let off the gas to coast a little the truck will downshift. press on the gas again, the truck goes back into OD. I do this a couple of times and then it wont do it again. What might be happening. Truck has 82,000 miles on it. I am the only owner. Transmission fluid changed a year ago.
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I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
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My 05 F150 with 107k miles becomes increasingly noisy.... From speeds about 15mph up to 50mph there is a humming noise from the front wheels, clearly audible during coast. It sounds almost like tire noise, low frequency with a clear tone (not rumble) and gets worse in LH turns / better in RH turns. The frequency follows the speed.
I also can feel vibrations in the steering wheel. It's not the tires, I changed them without any impact. Checked wheel bearing play - seems OK. The locking hubs are stuck in locked position, with quite some play between the hub and the driveshaft at the RH front wheel (have not checked the LH front wheel yet), seems weird...
Where should I start to look, - wheel bearings or locking hubs? And more important, we plan a 1500 mls trip to Germany - do I dare to drive the truck? What is the worst thing that could happen if wheel bearing or locking hub?
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Three weeks ago I started my truck as usual in the garage and let idle for couple minutes. Backed out of garage and accelerated, then it stalled, started again and drove about 150-200 feet and stalled again. This repeated two more times and then I decided I better try and "limp" back to the house. It has been in at the service dept. for three weeks now and they first told me it was the fuel pumps. Now they say its the fuel transfer pump, don't know if there is a difference.
My service dept has no straight.
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I like coasting on long down-sloping grades as much as possible to save gas. (With CRUISE off, STABILITY off, ECON on.) I can even exceed the criticized EPA Fuel Economy figures. And I rarely have to brake hard at stops. My 2001 GM Venture would coast forever. My 2013 Dodge Caravan is very reluctant to coast or "freewheel". When I ease up on gas pedal, it downshifts, revving up the engine to apply costly engine-braking (when I don't want to slow down or stop at all)! I have asked several Chrysler mechanics and gotten different answers from each one, none of which worked.
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Traffic permitting, pulse and glide or coast seems to work for the mpgs for those dreaded 1 mile trips on a cold engine. If no one behind, I'll just get off the gas and coast down the street, usually to the next stop light. Funny how often the light is red. If a bunch of ICEers are close behind, coasting not an option.
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I'm still getting used to my prius and hybrids in general so there are a few things that I still don't know about them. But what what makes that cool whirring sound you hear when accelerate from a stop or coast? It's got a cool scientific buzz.
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My mom owns a 1993 Passat (V6). It has recently caused her endless frustration and she has paid many dollars, which she cannot afford, for "repairs" that haven't fixed anything. She describes the symptoms:
"I am driving along at highway speeds and the car suddenly starts coughing, sputtering, and lurching resulting in only being able to coast along at a low speed. Pressing the accelerator is no use. Intermittently, the power comes back, but eventually this syndrome results in an "overheat-like smell" and the car must be shut off. After resting for a little while the car restarts and runs normally before starting this behavior again."
She has now paid hundreds of dollars to a tech who admits he doesn't have all the VW diagnostic equipment, but who says he thinks he has found the problem. Do these symptoms sound like any known issues...
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