Ford - Ranger :: Clutch Pedal Feels Normal But No Resistance When Shifting Gears
Jan 19, 2015
I have a 5-speed transmission pickup (’04 Ford Ranger EDGE SuperCab). Clutch pedal feels "normal", No resistance when shifting gears. Will go into gear with ease, except for 2nd gear (grinding noise), must push clutch to the floor and still grinds; but only 2nd gear. In 1st gear, my truck will slowly creep forward as if unable to engage and not having any kind of pulling power. Even when shifting to 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, it barely maxes out at 30MPH (top speed unless vehicle is on a slope or slight decline then I can get up to and over 40MPH. Checked brake fluid level, it’s ok. The fluid’s at max. Clutch is relatively new (April 2014), with only about 13,000 miles on it, if that. It must be cylinder issue. Is there any way to tell whether it's the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder?
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When I bought my ranger used, the clutch felt ok. But as a couple weeks had passed, it started to get hard to shift. The clutch doesn't slip at all so a friend of mine said there might be air in the system.
I would pump the clutch pedal a few times and then it would shift ok for a while, then back to shifting hard. I found the bleeder and had my son assist me with bleeding the system. Everything was fine at first but I made a big mistake and now i have no pedal feel at all.
My mistake was i didn't realize what I thought was the reservoir was not the actual reservoir. There was a black rubber thing in the reservoir that I filled with fluid. My mistake was I needed to take out this black rubber thing.
So now i am stuck with no pedal and don't know what to do. When I pulled out the black rubber thing, the reservoir was empty so i filled it and it bubbled for a second and then stopped. Tried pedal at this point and there is no feel at all. It just goes to floor with no effort.
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Stage 2 clutch with a diesel geek short shifter. I have started noticing shifting from 2nd to 3rd is difficult. Sometimes it will go into 5th when shifting up from 2nd. Not a lot of resistance but it is more than noticeable. How do I resolve this issue? Am I hurting my clutch if I keep driving like this? Nothing is grinding at all in between shifts.
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I have a co-worker that is having trouble with his 06 passat. He explained that the clutch pedal has no resistance and is on the floor. The dealer he took it to is saying he needs a new clutch and pressure plate claiming that the "pedal doesn't have pressure on it is because the clutch discs won't engage" which sounds backwards if you ask me. Anyway, what could this be? Where could we start tracking this down?
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I bought a 2010 Elantra Blue in November. It has 1200 miles on it now, but as early as the 2nd week or so I became aware that there is occasionally resistance shifting into 2nd gear despite the clutch being fully depressed. It can also make a slight "crunching" noise after passing through the neutral position and fully into 2nd (though this sound is distinct from grinding, it's not the same as if you were grinding the gears). I've tried a million times to narrow down the cause (i.e. cold weather, low RPM shifting, high RPM shifting, slow shifting, fast shifting, gentle shifting, strong shifting) but every time I think I got it, and have corrected it, it happens again anyways.
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Last night I was driving home and decided to show off at a light. I punched it pretty hard, but it wasn't anything outrageous.. anyway, as soon as I shifted to second, my clutch pedal gave out and dropped to the floor without resistance. I coasted it to a gas station, luckily.. When I lifted my foot the pedal rose back slowly. I tried pumping the pedal, didn't work. I looked for leaks, but none were found. I turned it off, put it in first and tried starting it, and it turned over and jumped/jerked forward, a lot like it did right when I shifted into second and it went out. So I'm assuming that its not the entire clutch cause it wouldn't have engaged the engine. It's not a leak. pumping it didn't work so it's can't be a pressure issue.. what is going on? is it my master cylinder, or maybe my slave?
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My clutch has been feeling very strange lately, and has had a mind of its own. I have looked underneath myself, and have even taken it in to two transmission speacialists and they can't figure it out. The master cylinder isn't leaking, and the slave cylinder is fine as well.
Here's what is going on with my clutch...
- I will push in the pedal, and there will be ZERO resistance until about 1 inch from hitting the floor, then all the pressure is there, and I am able to shift. However, sometimes I won't even be able to put it into gear because the clutch won't engage.
- Then I will pump the pedal, and slowly I will gain a little more room on the draw of the clutch, and it will feel fine. All the way to the point where a few days later it will be driving like new.
- Then it will start feeling funky again a few days later and the cycle starts over.
I drive a 2003 GTI 20th AE.
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Just went to leave my apartment and I get at the first traffic light and put it into neutral. Light turns green and I try to put it into first and it won't let me... In fact I cannot shift into any gear while the car is started. Put the flashers on and I am stumped. There was also more resistance in the clutch pedal as soon as this happened.
I turned the car off and tried wiggling it into any gear. For some reason while the car is off I can put it into any gear. So I had to put the car in first gear and start it and limp it home. I had to rev the engine to about 2,800 - 3,000 RPMS in order to get the car to bite and take off. Shifting into any other gear while driving was a hassle and it felt like there was a lot of resistance.
Just did some quick Vwvortex recon and some people are saying that it is a broken pressure plate? Pressure plate welds itself to the clutch? Or possibly a throwout bearing? Also what Transmission is in a 2003 Passat 1.8T Engine code AWM.
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So last evening, I went to start my car and the clutch pedal went straight to the floor with no resistance. Car started and was extremely hard to get into every gear. Felt like the only thing pushing the clutch pedal back up was the spring underneath the pedal itself. Clutch pedal was 100% just the day before. Got the clutch line bled (vacuum bleeder) and it worked fine again.
Any clue as to what could caused this overnight?
Its a AWP 1.8t jetta with ASR.. I believe I came across something about a revision in the hydraulic line but I'm not sure.
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Since I have gotten my Sentra 2003 I have had issues with it. This past year my thermostat went about 6 weeks ago. I noticed that when my car would idle the engine would rev. Over the weekend I drove on the highway for 2 hours. When I started slowing the speed don I noticed that I could press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor without any resistance. It came back up. I rolled into the toll plaza and stopped to pay the toll at which point I could shift the shifter into a gear but the car would not catch. No movement. I think my clutch mechanism needs to be fully replaced as the car has 115000 miles with the original still intact. IS that most likely the case and what am I looking at for the cost?
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I have a 2001 Saturn SL2, with a manual transmission. The clutch pedal recently gave up -- it goes to the floor with no resistance, and I can't shift. I understand that this car has a hydraulic clutch, and that the hydraulic system has failed. My mechanic says the whole transmission system should be replaced, (though he hasn't been able to look at the car 'cause it's stuck in my driveway!) Before I donate the car to charity, could the problem be anything simpler? Or is it a straight forward diagnosis?
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I have a 2010 Ford ranger sport 4x4, manual, and when backing up at a decent speed, then press the brake to slow up then depress the clutch, the brake pedal pulsates and it feels like something is grinding. It has happened in first once, but I can make it happen in reverse anytime...
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I changed my oem clutch in my mk4 golf 2.0l with a stage 1 ecs tuning clutch kit. Lightweight flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing. But since I have my clutch pedal has been less stiff then usual. I like my clutch pedal as stiff as possible but it just isn't I bled off the slave cylinder. When I was done no air was coming out but it is still way to soft for me. What should I do next??
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I have a 92' Escort GT and the clutch started to act up, it's not burnt cause it is fairly new. The clutch pedal feels slightly looser when pushing it to the floor, the feeling like a cable snapped or something?
I'm pretty sure the clutch is a hydraulic one, not 100% .. Is there a hydraulic reservoir that somewhere that might be low?
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Still chugging along!!
So, I haven't been the kindest car owner to my poor little hatchback. I do my best to get regular oil changes, but other than replacing the brakes last year, I have not kept up with most of the manufacturer's suggested regularly scheduled maintenance. The car has about 130,000 miles. Manual Transmission. My clutch feels a little loose, and I have been noticing a slight grinding sound when shifting (only from neutral to first gear).
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Ford Ranger 20012.5L
Manual 4 Cylinder4x2
Drivetrain~150K Miles
The problem with the vehicle is that it won't shift into gear easily and smoothly. It started occurring just this last Friday or Saturday (2011-06-24 or 2011-06-25). I was driving around 35 MPH, slowed down to a stop at an intersection, and when I put it back into 1st Gear to begin driving, I had extreme difficulty shifting the gear.
I cut the ignition and started again, was able to put it into 1st Gear and made it home by coasting (getting into any of the other Gears was just as difficult, fortunately I was in the neighborhood). Following this, I tested it while parked the next day. Same issue. Then I tried double-clutching, which seemed to work out, but I only did it parked, since I didn't want to strand myself on a road (I'll take that risk when I go to a mechanic, though).
I've read this [URL] ...., I'm pretty sure it's the clutch (master/slave cylinder) and I'm also aware that it could be the transmission fluid requiring a change. I haven't changed the transmission fluid at the 60K & 120K interval per Ford's suggested maintenance schedule (I got it around 50K-60K from a dealership, so I'm not sure if they may have done it preemptively).
A couple other details. For the past year or so, I've been driving 100 Highway miles for 4-5 days a week, for work (50 to work, 50 back home).
Are my assumptions right, or is it possible that my whole Transmission is getting ready to go? Are there any other details I should provide?
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My 2001 Ranger V6 with 160.000 miles runs like a Swiss watch. After warming up slightly it idles at the typical 750 RPM. I can pull out of the garage, park in the yard, shift from D or R into P and the idle holds at 750 RPM until I turn the engine off.
But, If I've driven to warm the engine to normal run temp and go through the same D or R and into P, the RPM drops to nearly Zero and sometimes the engine stops.
This has happened in the past so I take out the MAF, squirt it good with MAF cleaner, put it back in and everything is hunky-doory. But not this time. What am I missing??
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 213,000 miles. Manual tranny, 2wd. It is my daily driver.
No issues until 2 weeks ago I pulled out and began shift gears when the engine died and I completely lose pedal. The engine does not shut off it goes to idle and the lights and power are fine but I quickly lose acceleration. After a couple seconds and a few pumps on the pedal it comes back. The problem is intermittant. Until yesterday it was only in the morning but then happened on the way home from work. Thinking ti was water in the fuel I used an additive to cure the water.
I changed the fuel filter just after I bought it in April of this year. I know there is a Injector Pressure Sensor that could be the culprit. EGR?
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I have a 2003 Ford Ranger, 5 speed, with 180k miles. Sometimes, not all the time, when I press the clutch and shift gears, the engine will rev.I dont drive the truck a whole lot, its a 2nd vehicle.
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I have a 96 2.3L 5 speed Ranger. The clutch has been getting softer and softer until about two weeks ago when I couldn't drive it anymore because gears would grind like crazy when I shifted, especially 1st and 2nd. I had no time and just drove my other truck but now I've had a bit of time to look into it. I went to bleed the clutch and then realized there was no fluid in there. So I tried to put fluid in but nothing happened. The clutch is still extremely soft. The truck won't even start when I have it in gear, it turns over and kind of lurches forward, even with the clutch pushed all the way in. It starts right up in neutral. So my guess is I have to do what I really don't want to... replace the clutch!!
Is it possible that since I just put more fluid in the clutch it may take awhile for that fluid to get into the cylinder and I have to bleed it again?
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1999 ranger, 2.55 speed. truck idles with very high rpm's when driving and shifting gears. have changed the AIC, mass air sensor. Throttle position sensor and still does it. the AIC has been changed 5-6 times in 6-8 months as parts store kept telling me it was that. What can i look at, check, etc...
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