Ford - Ranger :: Cloud Of Smoke On Start Up - Knock In Engine After Oil Pan Change
Mar 5, 2014
I have a Ford Ranger 4wd, 2000 120k. Ran well, great shape, reliable and quiet running. Oil pan leaked and I got tired of going under and used Devcon in attempts to stop leak..reoccurring issue. So I get new 0il pan. Started it up following morning after driving errands and home from shop and saw a cloud of smoke on start up never seen before, cleared away and didn't think about it again. Drive round trip for about 70 miles and while driving at slow speeds back in town, the oil gauge started pinging back and forth, and the knocking started. By the time I got home I do not dare to drive it anywhere as while the oil gauge does not fluctuate anymore the rapping has increased. What could have started this chain of events? Can I expect the garage to replace the engine? Vehicle is worth 4k replacing engine probably 3K..while a beautiful useful truck body sits in yard is it really worth it? Bad draw on the cards?
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This S10 has 4 wheel drive and the V6 engine and has 88,000 miles on it. Just about everything except the engine has been replaced because it was a work and plow car and took a beating. It is a great plow car, by the way. Recently a cloud of smoke comes out of the exhaust when you start the engine that has been sitting overnight. Mechanic says it is just old, but someone said that replacing the umbrella seals might do the trick. Stopped at my local auto parts store and they had never heard of umbrella seals.
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How many of you have this issue with your 2010 5.4 puffs a cloud of smoke on start up I have 20,000 klicks on mine after 8 months....
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Specs: 2003 Ranger Edge / 3.0 V6 / 5-speed 4WD / 238,000 miles
Yesterday my truck was in the shop for repair. Intake gasket, Transmission fluid change, all heater hoses, thermostat, serp belt and coolant flush. When I picked it up from the shop, which was after closing, I noticed a knocking on start up. From past experience on a different truck, it sounds like a cam that isn't oiling. After a few minutes the knock goes away. I drove for a few miles, turned off the engine and started it back up and no knock this time. This morning I started it, knock was back but went away after a few minutes. Oil was changed about 1500 miles ago. Running pennzoil 5/20 with a K&N filter. Up until yesterday the engine has been completely quiet. Was wonder if something may have clogged the filter or the drain back valve.
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99 1500 2wd 5.7 burb
Out of the blue I started old red up yesterday (after charging the dead battery) and got a huge cloud of white smoke. Smells of coolant so Im thinking oh great a head gasket. The thing is, I can see no trace of coolant in oil or vice versa. I started it up with radiator cap off, while cranking I got a little fluid spit out the neck but once it started it was not gushing or bubbling at all.
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So I'm trying to figure out the issue with my girls car, upon cold start sometimes a cloud of white smoke will come out of the tail pipe but not all the times, sometimes the oil level slowly drops but again not all the time, coolant doesn't look mixed but I'm not 100% sure. The car is the pzev 2.0.
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On cold start or when the cars been cool down for a hour or so, a huge cloud of smoke will come out. it smells plastic burn than a rich gas smell.
So far this is what i did, a oil change, add a no smoke oil treatment, replaced with an oem pcv valve (this fix my rx300 smoking issue years ago)
Video 1, Friday at 3pm. the temperature is ~60 degrees, less smoke after a pcv changed
Video 2, Friday after noon at 6p.m. ~50 degrees
Video 3, Next day 10 a.m. ~48 degrees
In person it looks white smoke, but the camera captures it more blue smoke. I have been constantly monitoring my levels and oil and coolants are just normal.
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Our 12 elantra with 26,500 miles went up in a big cloud of smoke on monday. Driving along about 45 miles an hour and lost power and huge cloud of smoke. Engine still running but any attempt to accelerate and it falls on it's face. Smoke out the taipipe all the time. After about 12 dealer excuses they say it needs a new short block. The wife drives it all the time so it doesn't get babied and it doesn't get the snot run out of it either.
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My VW Golf TDI 2000 has 236,000 miles on it. The other day my husband jumped on the accelerator to merge onto the freeway, and it let out a huge black cloud of smoke. Wow, we thought. Weird. Impressive. Uh oh. Then we realized it was making HUGE diesel engine noises, which just got louder by the next day. Windows down, you can't hear yourself think. It also won't accelerate past 50 mph. We've spent so much money and time fixing this car. Would love to know what might be wrong this time. Just moved, no trusted mechanics who we can call. Might we have to donate it to public radio and just be done with it? Or something my husband can repair with the manual?
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I have a 02' Limited V10 with 202xxx and have come across new issues recently.
Occasionally when I start up the truck it spits out blue smoke BUT its only when it fires up then it's done.
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99 F-150 V8 - During mountain driving after a long downhill I get a cloud of smoke when I get back on the gas. Appears to be darker smoke not oil like blue smoke. Only other issue I have with the truck is an occasional cloud of blue smoke when I start it which I believe is just aging valve seals. What is causing the cloud of smoke after a downhill?
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The truck is a 98 4.6l with 188,000 miles on it and yesterday i was driving up over a pretty steep grade hill, i was going about 55 and turning maybe 2800 rpms at the top a big cloud of white smoke came out (either tailpipe or just out of motor on hot pipes)and also some in the cab. It didn't run any different though so I kept driving about 3 mile and stopped where i could take a look and and saw fresh oil around the starter area running down where the motor meets the tranny. I checked the oil and it was at a good level and also not milky. I checked level again today and it seems well and there is no drops of oil on the ground i ran it home about ten mi and it runs good. What could have happened?
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I have a 2000 E350 15 passenger Ford Van with 125,000 miles on it. I am burning a quart every 500 miles. The van produces a cloud of black smoke occasionally when I start it. Maybe once every 10 starts or so. It seems to be more prevalent when the van is parked with the engine downhill. About a year ago, I switched to high mileage oil. Could this be part of the problem? Or is there anything other than a rebuilt engine that will work?
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Last night parked my 2004 Ford F150 after a 15 minute drive in 85 degree weather. About 15 minutes after parking I heard a loud boom and a cloud if smoke came out from the front of my truck. Lots of people on the street also saw it and said they thought it was a tire but alas, all tires are fine and oddly a look under the hood showed zero signs of anything unusual, no leaks under and I even drove it home with no perceived problems. What this could be or what to look out for?
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I recently had the Blue Spring installed on my 04 X. After having it installed I still noticed a lot of hesitation on take off, and after a few seconds of trying to take off it kicks out a large cloud of black smoke and away she goes. The problem is very noticed when at the bottoms of hills it seems powerless and makes a wierd noise from the drive side of the engine bay, until I press the pedal enough to make it downshift then comes the large cloud of black smoke and she climbs up. All I know is I'm getting worse fuel economy then I should get and something just doesn't feel right when driving the X. The truck doesn't feel like it missing at all so I don't think it would be injectors especially as They are all brand new and less than 6 months old.
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First some background. The vehicle is a 2003 Expedition with rear AC. The 5.4L engine has been replaced with a 4BT Cummins (DD since 2010), but the AC system is not altered-- other than the compressor being mounted to a different engine. The intercooler is in front of the condenser, which hurts efficiency of the AC system, but it seems to work fine in our climate.
My AC system quit cooling one day, and the problem was a hole in one of the low-side tubes from rubbing on the turbo-to-intercooler tube. I repaired this by aluminum brazing. The system held 120 psi on nitrogen for one hour. So I pumped it down overnight to 27 inches of Hg and made an appointment with the AC shop to get it recharged. I could not get an appointment for several weeks, so I continued to drive it with no AC, thinking it should be no problem since there is no pressure in the system.
I was on a road trip when all of a sudden, there was a huge stinky cloud of blue smoke billowing out from behind the truck. I pulled over and the AC clutch and pulley was smoking hot. I shut it down and cooled it off slowly with squirts from a water bottle.
So my clutch is shot but I'm not sure what caused it to fry. Is there a typical mechanical failure where the friction material can be chewed up by the pulley-hub? Or is it possible that somehow the controller commanded the clutch to engage without pressure in the system?
I think it would be prudent to replace the compressor, since there may be some bearing or housing damage from the clutch failure, so that is in the plan. I have read that when ever the system is open, the drier should be changed too. I want to do this right rather than do it again on another day.
One concern I have is that if when the clutch was failing and it managed to turn the compressor-- could there be pieces of compressor in the tube runs that I need to clean out? Other than a visual inspection of the open tube ends, is there another test or things to look for?
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I've got a '94 Ranger with the 4.0L OHV and an Automatic trans. When I start, hot or cold, it has quick lifter knock for only a fraction of a second. This same knock comes back if I hold the throttle over 3K with NO LOAD on the engine. With any load, I cannot make it knock. With no load, though, it becomes very loud, especially with more RPMs. at idle and slightly above, there is a slight tick that can only be heard with the bonnet up, and then it is only slightly noticeable. I think that this tick is unrelated, but I figured I should share that information. For oil, I run Pennzoil high mileage 10W-30, changed 3000 miles religiously. Purolator filter, PL30001. I can understand the startup knock, but I can't see why it seems to produce the same knock at high RPMs under NO load.
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I have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
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I too had this problem and tried different gas, gas additives, meticulously inspecting the cooling system to make sure overheating was impossible, found the jumper that allows me to back off timing 2 degrees, checked the computer for error codes, and cleaning the MAF sensor. Nothing really worked.
The solution is to decarbon the engine. It is all described in TSB 01-19-7, dated OCT 01. I did this and END of the problem. Pay attention to the part about not ingesting the PM-3 cleaner too fast to make sure you don't liquid lock your engine. The only important step they forgot was that you will need to replace spark plugs when you're done. You may also want to lay some newspaper under your tailpipe too, as the crud is gonna flow.
The TSB notes that the driver should have "periods of daily operation over 3500RPM to break carbon from cyl heads". They also note that you should NOT use mid-grade or super duper unleaded, as these increase the probability of carbon buildup.
This repair will cost about $30 if you do it yourself; if you can change a flat tire you can do this.
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Yesterday I was driving my wife's Passat 2.0T and I floored it and I saw a dark cloud of smoke out the back. It didn't seem very normal... is it?
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My k03 blew up after 100k miles in a cloud of smoke and oil... Where is a good place to buy a k03 turbo for less than $900 or so?
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