Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Motor Swap From 1994 To 1987 Model?
Dec 9, 2014
I have a 1987 ford ranger, it has a 2.0L carborated motor and I also have a 1994 ford ranger fuel injected motor I believe it's a 2.3L, I am wondering if the swap will work to put the 94 motor in the 87....
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Will a driver door from a 92 ford ranger fit a 93 ford ranger?
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Im wanting to get more power out of my 94 auto supercab but I don't wanna kill mpg it has 3.08 gears I was thinking swap to 3.55 to keep mpg would there be noticeable power difference?
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I have an 87 ranger that has started having problems over the last week or so. I had a similar problem a year or so ago. I put a new fuel pressure regulator on and it fixed it. So it started acting up again so I got another regulator and it didn't work at all. It won't idle at all without dying. The motor revs up then cuts out completely and dies. It's like I'm repeatedly pressing the gas pedal when I do get it to idle but I'm not touching it at all. It runs fairly well on the road until I let off the gas then it goes to shaking and jumping up and down till I get back on the gas.
A guy told me to unplug a little cigarette pack shaped plastic box and see if it changed anything. I think he called it a map sensor? But that didn't do anything. I was thinking maybe the fuel filter was clogged up but I don't really know. It is fuel injected 2.9 4x4 regular cab. About 110000 miles. Not sure if filter has ever been changed. It doesn't smoke or smell like gas so I'm thinking it's starving for fuel.
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Which transmission came with the 1987 Ranger 2.9L?
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I have an 87 v6 ranger with 5 speed that has been sitting for several years. The truck only has 48000 miles on it. The gas tank has been cleaned out and both fuel pumps have been replaced. The injectors were pulled and cleaned...
It will start up and run for about 5 minutes and then will shut off. It will not start after that until the next day and then does the same thing. It starts up and runs then shuts off and can't get it to start again. Could it be some kind of circuit breaker tripping or maybe the ecm. If it is the ecm how do you test it...
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I have a friend who drives a 1987 ranger 2.3 4 cyl and is having problems with oil building up in his air cleaner. I thought maybe it was a bad pcv valve or worn out rings. I looked at it and cannot even find a pcv valve on it. it has one hose that runs from the valve cover to the air clean but there' s no valve in it. are the rings shot or what is causing this to happen?
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Still cant seem to fix this 87 ranger 2.9... NEW fuel reg, fuel press reg, rebuilt computer.cold it will start and run fine.then it will shut down with in 5 to 18 miles then you cant hear the front or rear pumps at all!. Let it sit over night and your off again.. Can't get any codes.. Can a pump over heat and shut both off??
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so I have a 1987 2.9L Ranger that likes to stall out when its idling after reaching temperature. Ive replaced all sorts of sensors (IAC, Coolant Temp, and PCV) and so far no luck. I was trying to figure out what the relearn procedure was for the IAC or get an input on any other possible sources of error. I haven't changed TPS yet.
What the engine does is when it gets up to temp, the engine will start to loose speed, and will start to shutter. Then it'll kick back up run fine for a few seconds and drop again, it'll do this for a few minutes then completely just choke out.
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1987 ranger 2.9l... My truck had no power while accelerating. We'll I changed fuel pump and filter. And still no power. I bought a computer and it tells me the map sensor is not at normal vaccum levels. The ego sensor is reading always rich. Egr valve not opening. Knock sensor was was going crazy. And computer couldn't raise engine speed above normal idle. Could all this be because of one sensor or should I just change it all.
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Can I swap my 2 piece out for a one piece in my 88 ranger supercab? It is a 4x4 5 speed.
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1987, 2.9 ... I got all my wiring repaired and replaced both the intank pump and the high pressure pump, for a few days it would fire right up as soon as you hit the key but it had a miss (the pumps shut off after a second or two with the key on "RUN"). I tore the throttle body off and cleaned all the carbon out of it, when I put the throttle body back on I noticed that the engine to body ground was loose so I ran a new piece of 4ga from the intake manifold bolt to one of the master cylinder bolts.
After I did this I went to start the truck and no go, the fuel pump turns on with the key but then it wont shut back off until you turn the key off. if you try and start the truck it will crank but wont fire, after about a half hour of cycling the key and cranking it will start to put a little bit then a few tries later it will start but sounds rough when it first fires. I thought it may be a stuck injector so I ran some cleaner through the Schrader valve on the rail. Still have nothing, both pumps do run but still don't shut off after a few seconds like they should and now it wont even try to start.
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Recently, today in my 87 Ranger suddenly the engine dies and all electronics in the cab fail.
I noticed under the hood that the fusible link connected to the battery and an orange and black wire was smoking. Tracing this line i found that it leads to the ignition switch, as well as some other places.
There is another fusible link and the junction between the yellow ignition wire and the orange and black wire from the battery. This fusible link also was failed.
I'm planning on replacing the fusible links tomorrow but in case that does not fix it, where to look next.
The problem only occurs when the key is in the ON position. I'm thinking maybe I could do some tests with a multimeter on the ignition switch but am not sure of the details of what I should test for.
Summary: Fusible Links C, and E burn out when the ignition is in the ON position.
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I just bought a 87 Ford Ranger 2.9L v6 4x4. It has a tick to it. It doesn't stop, it doesn't increase with acceleration it stays the same. I sprayed some SeaFoam in it and It improved the performance a lot (More horsepower, better reaction to the pedal.) But it is still knocking. I have never tore apart an engine before or messed with lifters or anything. I'm not completely sure how to fix it. I know knocking is not a good thing either.
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I have a 1987 ford ranger 4x4 2.9l v6 but my transmission slips out of gear and its auto im not sure why but ive been told im missing a over drive gear is this a possibility or what???
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I was working on my friend's '87 Ranger with 2.9 L V6, and a little bit of dirt fell into the intake manifold through the injector ports and intake ports. I should've cleaned the top of the engine with a shop vac first. Anyway, should I remove the intake manifold, or try to vacuum the bits out? It's pretty oily inside, and they might be stuck to the inside of it, so the vac might not do much. If I have to remove it, do I have to de-mesh the distributor gear to remove it, or does the distributor attach to a splined shaft? After looking at the diagrams, the answer was unclear.
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Will the transmission from a 2000 fit a 96? They're both 3.0's.
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My dash light fuse blew. I checked with a meter and I have a short to ground somewhere in the wiring for the lights. Everything else seems to be working fine.
Is there a copy of the wiring diagram somewhere?
I have the big ford shop manual but I't doesn't have any diagrams. (might be missing pages, I got it off Ebay and the index is missing T-Z).
I have the Haynes but it doesn't have the diagram for the dash lights.
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I have a 1987 ranger 2.9 V6. Have a intermittent miss @ idle when warmed up. What is the proper way to pull the codes from the computer, i,st something about counting flashes or lights...
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My ranger 2.9 automatic 2WD has an high idle when started for about 6 min, engine can be hot or cold, still get the high idle, then it will drop to around 900-1000. I've changed the Idle control twice, checked EGR function. Replace temp sensor. Disconnected battery for 15 min. No code output.
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I have a 1987 Ford Ranger that only has high speed on the wipers. According to the Ford Shop Manual the probable cause is the interval windshield wiper governor, which is suppose to be mounted above the driver's side kick panel. The manual even shows a drawing of the governor and the location. Nothing is there in my truck. Where it is located and what it looks like?
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