Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Wiper Control Lost All Function Save For Fastest Setting
Jan 25, 2017
My Ranger 2004 Edge wiper control lost all function save for the fastest setting. The day before I lost the lower settings but then they were there as usual. This also happened once before about a month ago and then it came back. Last night no such luck. Everything else seems to function fine. Where to begin?
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1988 Bronco II 2.9L Issues:
- When I turn off the wiper switch the wipers immediately stop in place, they do not continue to their normal 'down' position.
- The switch's adjuster to slow the wipers isn't working, only the low and high settings work.
What I've done so far:
- Replaced wiper switch with used from spare parts.
- Replaced wiper switch with new from spare parts.
- Replaced wiper motor with remanufactured from Autozone.
- Thoroughly cleaned wiper motor ground terminals.
- Replaced interval wiper governor with used from spare parts.
The problem occurred after the truck sat in my garage for 6 months while I removed and reinstalled the engine to replace some gaskets & seals.
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Every time I start the car the AC take about 15 sec to turn on, and the temperature setting reset to 75degree. Is there a way I can fix this small issue? Normally the AC turn on right away and my temperature stay at the setting I left it.
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When I test drove this 2004 Ranger Edge 4.0 I purchased about three weeks ago it had mucho AC cooling. So much so I had to turn it way down.
Today, when I could have used it, the AC has gone south. There is very moderate cool air coming out even on the turbo setting. Was actually better with the AC off and the windows open when the truck was on the road.
I got a sick feeling thinking maybe the dealer topped off the coolant knowing it had a leak but I have a push-on plastic coolant gauge and it is reading "filled" into that blue area about 25% of the way with the truck at idle and the AC on. The compressor is cycling on and off... mostly off, though. Not sure if that is normal or ??
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How do you remove this clip holding the wiper linkage to the back of the motor? I can't see what kind of clip it is to know how to remove it. Ford says to remove the wiper pivot and let it drop. Is that necessary? I can't barely get to the back of the motor so I'm having to feel the clip and remove it but since I don't even know what kind of clip it is it makes it so much harder. Does the cowl cover not come off or is it just this access panel?
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I have a 1987 Ford Ranger that only has high speed on the wipers. According to the Ford Shop Manual the probable cause is the interval windshield wiper governor, which is suppose to be mounted above the driver's side kick panel. The manual even shows a drawing of the governor and the location. Nothing is there in my truck. Where it is located and what it looks like?
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I have a 1988 Ranger with the 2.9. 2wd, xlt. It seems that my wipers have no power. I put a test light in the fuse panel where the 6A cb is and no light. To verify I wasn't doing something wrong, I put it in the dome light and tester came on. I tried with the wiper switch on interval, low & hi. I can't seem to find where the power comes from to follow back from the fuse panel. The washer fluid doesn't work either. No clicking from relays or anything.
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This morning the passenger side wiper on my 89 Ranger stopped working. I heard a clunk noise and it stopped but driver side still works. What should I check first? I'm guessing a shaft came off but don't know where it is located.
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I have a 2000 Ranger 3.0 4x4 with over drive. When backing out of my driveway there was a harsh "thud" (for lack of a better word) and I lost reverse. The forward gears are still working. We pushed it out on to the road and I drove to my place of business. At that time reverse worked again. It only lasted a couple more times. Still have the forward gears. Could it be a band or clutch?
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I have a 97 Ranger, v6 4.0L, 2wd, 5spd. It has been my daily driver since 1999. I was driving to work today and when I pulled into the parking spot, I turned the truck off, and I thought it was odd that the locks didn't pop up when I shut the truck off.
I then realized that I had completely lost all electrical power. Tried to turn the truck on and nothing. No click. No dome light, no horn, no nothing.
My battery reads 12.5 volts and the connections are all clean on the battery. I checked all the fuses and they are all good. What else should I check? This may be the first time this truck has ever stranded me before.
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1987 ranger 2.9l 4wd 5 SPD ... I just replaced plugs wires distributer cap and rotor and pcv valve and hose. It drives fine for about 3 minutes and then it looses all power and I can't get out of 2nd gear. It idles fine all day long. The guy I bought it from said he put a new tank and pump on it.
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My left brake caliper locks up on me. I have replace it, the brakes , and the wheel bearings. when im driving down the highway and go between 45 -55 my front end shakes really bad and i start to lose power.
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I have a 1992 Ranger with 2.3L that suddenly lost power on freeway and stopped and couldn't restart. Towed it to Seattle, WA and need Ford Ranger 2.3L engine mechanic to double check the timing since new belt installed to make sure it was done right before cover and rest of engine reinstalled.
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I have a 94 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0 V6. It has developed a rough idle and has lost i fair amount of power. I cleaned the maf sensor and iac valve. Along with replacing an o2 sensor that was reading bad, with no improvement. The guys at O'reilly took a look and think I may be dealing with a timing issue or a warped valve. My question here is to found the culprit? I'm very inexperienced at working on vehicles and am damn intimidated by the scale of a project like timing. I should add that while traveling on the highway in high gear at low rpms, it develops a rough stutter. I can either power through it or ease off to get it to stop, but it resumes shortly after. It almost acts like an egr valve stuck open when on the highway. But that doesn't account for the rough (a consistent put, put, put...) idle.
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I have an '04 Ranger Edge 3.0 with a severe coolant leak. It appears to be coming from the area where the head/water pump housing meet. I have been told I've lost the seal behind the pump on the timing cover. Is there any way to know for sure? Will I be able to tell, once the pump is out that it isn't coming from the head side? Are there any "special" instructions for re-sealing after replacing pump?
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Just inherited a 97 F150 which has no wiper function. fuses check good. how can I get to the motor just enough to test if I have power to it?
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I lost the windshield wipers, speedometer, dome light, door alarm. Check all the fuses I can find all are ok. Whats wrong.
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I was pulling out of a parking lot making a sharp turn when all the sudden I lost my power steering. I have a '94 Ford Ranger manual transmission. It didn't make any sounds. I was going to try to keep adding power steering fluid to it and try to get it home to my mechanic in my hometown - but it drips constant liquid when I drive it down the street (you can see drips) so I don't think that's possible. I've read a lot on here about gear boxes failing, but would this cause it to leak even if the truck wasn't running? (the puddle builds quickly when its just sitting there, engine off). I took it to a mechanic (I don't have tools), and they said they can't say anything for sure until they look around, it could be seals or a new gear box.
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What controls where the air flow is directed in the cab? I've just finished replacing my power steering pump, ac compressor, dryer, and ac hoses. I have air flow to the defrost and some on the floor bu none coming straight out. It worked normally before so I did something. ('96, 4.0, auto tranny, XLT).
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I seen on this site awhile ago something about a fix for the heater control door, I have a 1996 Ranger and all I have is Hot heat and cannot cool it down with the temperature control.
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My 2000 4.0 XLT Ranger has been without working cruise control for several months now. I've checked what appear to be likely related fuses and they're all good. I *DID* have a recent problem with my brake lights but that's been fixed. (The shop that replaced my rear leaf spring hanger brackets pinched a hot wire between the brackets and the frame which eventually shorted. Wire and fuse were replaced.)
A few years back, Ford had a recall related to the Cruise Controls causing fires. I had the recall service performed on this truck. In a nutshell: The switch to disengage cruise when braking is attached to the master brake cylinder, and a leak in the switches diaphragm allows brake fluid into the switch causing an electrical short, causing the wires to heat up, and in some cases causing a fire. Ford, instead of switching to a different switch design (like maybe a mechanical switch on the pedal?) put a fuseable link in the hot wire from the potentially leaky switch.
Well, the truck now has over 150K miles on the factory brake cylinder/cruise control switch. I'm suspecting that my switch finally leaked, shorted and blew the fuseable link. Would Ford fix it? (They should, considering the lame fix for a lame design flaw.)
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