Was fixing leaking water temp sensor today and noticed the nipple under oil fill cap didn't have hose on it. After further investigation I found open spot on air intake hose with nothing in it. Both places seem to have vacuum, what goes here. BTW it is a 1999 Ranger ext cab with 3.0 flex engine and auto trans. Will try to get picture n post also...
View 8 RepliesWhere I might be able to find a vacuum hose routing diagram for a 2.9? I have searched high and low but with no luck.
View 14 RepliesFound a tee on the heater hose leaks when it warms up. Appears the PO had noticed it but put a hose over it and now is leaking around behind the valve cover. This is a hard plastic line around 5/16. No online parts show it as being available. Is there a fix for this ?
I would bet several others have had this problem as it lays right on top of the flange of the valve cover where I think it would rub a hole pretty quick.
1989 Ranger 4X4 4 cylinder....
I'm about to tear into a friends 2002 B2300 4 cyl. The lower hose that comes off of the coolant reservoir is leaking in the metal part of the line. Close to where it bolts to the block. At a glance, it looks like I have to pull the whole top of the motor apart to get it off since the line runs around behind the motor. Is there a trick to removing this coolant line without a lot of teardown? I'm not finding it at parts stores so I guess it's a stealership part.
View 2 RepliesI just bought a '98 Ranger 2.5l 2wd. After driving it for a week or so I got a P1405 Code. After a quick google search I got :
P1405 Ford - DPFE Sensor Circuit Upstream Hose
Possible Causes: - Faulty Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor (EGR pressure sensor)
- Plugged or damaged EGR tube
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor harness is open or shorted
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Now, I have done my research between forums and youtube and have found this EGR system to be quite. I've gone ahead and replaced my DPEF. I took an air hose and blew out all the small lines coming into the DPEF. I still have the engine light. My next move is to get a volt meter and see if I'm getting power to the sensor.
My question is about this particular code and is it possible I need to look farther into this EGR system (EGR Valve, EGR Hose, etc.)
Either one of my power steering hoses or the gear box is leaking on my 93 Ranger. It appeared the return hose was leaking where the rubber meets the crimp. So I decided I would go ahead and change the return and pressure hose to see if it stops the leak. It was a disaster. It's 2.3L manual transmission 4x2. I got the return hose off ok. I put the wrong size wrench on the pressure hose fitting at the pump but thought it was loosening but it was rounding the nut off. So I couldn't even change that hose. I installed the new return hose and retightened the pressure hose at the gear box.
Well it was a pain getting the flare fittings of the hoses into the steering box so I could tightened the flare nut down. I finally got them tightened, I think, but then when I started the engine fluid shot out of there like a water hose. It's coming from the fittings at the gear box that I thought were tightened. I reloosened and retightened them again and still it's shooting out everywhere. There is so little room getting a wrench on the hose fittings, it was slow going. What do you need to remove in order to get a good straight shot and installing these flare nut fittings and tightening them down right? If I remove the pump will it be easier to install the hoses on the gear box? I have to remove the pump now to change the pressure hose.
Water temperature gauge doesn't work. Assumed the problem was the sensor so bought a new one. Installed it, still nothing registering on the gauge after I know the water is heated up (drove it for 45 minutes, heater blowing hot).
So crossed the ground on the sensor and the gauge shot to the top so gauge is working.
Pulled wiring diagram and that sensor is SUPPOSED to register 79ohms for cold and 8 ohms for hot.. So bought a 10ohm resistor from radio shack and attached the water temp lead to it and the gauge read correctly about 1/8 inch from the H mark on gauge. This confirmed for me that gauge is not at fault.
Next I attached the ohmmeter to the sensor itself, boiled some water, placed the sensor tip into it and it read 86 ohms, in freshly boiled water! So at boiling the sensor isn't anywhere near to tripping the gauge to even start reading cold! So I tested the old sensor that I was replacing and in boiling water it shows 94 ohms?
What am I doing wrong, is there an assumption I am making here in error? I want to conclude the new sensor is bad, but the old sensor reads nearly the same reading under same conditions.So yes maybe they are BOTH bad but that seems to be pushing probability.
If it matters this sensor is the type that is inline from radiator to heater core, not the type that is in the engine block, at some point ford changed their sensor setup but didn't change the schematic drawing. Which doesn't matter the only difference is the one in-line has a ground wire to it rather then grounding off the engine block.
Vehicle is a 97 Ford Ranger with the 2.0 liter engine.
I have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT and it has been getting wet inside and I would like to get this fixed, but have no idea of where the water is coming in at.
I also noticed that at time there is allot of moisture in the inside on the windshield, have no idea where that is coming from?
Also if I have my Floor Mats in and left them up it will be wet under them NO matter if it is Winter or Summer, so I took them out.
Also I have noticed that behind the seat on both side it gets wet and I have that window that you can open in the middle, would it be coming from there?
Also what would cause the doors to freeze and you have to pull as hard to get them open in the Winter time, are the seals bad on the doors?
2001 3.0 XLT Ranger 2wd 4 door
Okay getting ready to trade in my Truck. So I removed all the extra things I put on there while I was in college, the amp, fog-lights, and analog oil pressure sensor along with their wiring. It was pretty easy minus removing the oil pressure sending unit part.
I had to unplug the MAF to move the intake out of the way while I was repairing a loose vacuum tank. But I forgot to plug it back in when i closed everything up. I started the truck and drive it about a half mile before I was able to pull over and plug it back in. Truck ran and shifted fine after that, but the CEL came on. P0119 Coolant Temp Signal Intermittent. Guy at Autozone said it was Intake Air Temp Sensor intermittent and I could just replace the part, but they were showing a separate part even though it is built into our MAFs.
So now the CEL is on, can get it to go away. Truck is a little jerky every once in a while, like a misfire, when between 50 and 60. Before all this the CEL was off. Now after I cleaned it up and removed some of the superfluous accessories, I get a CEL. I wanted to trade it in this coming weekend without having to take a loss because of the CEL or spend more money to fix it.
I need to know what the wire colors are for a engine temperature sensor connector (2-wire) are and the correct wiring diagram to get the temperature gauge to work again
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 Ranger V6 with 160.000 miles runs like a Swiss watch. After warming up slightly it idles at the typical 750 RPM. I can pull out of the garage, park in the yard, shift from D or R into P and the idle holds at 750 RPM until I turn the engine off.
But, If I've driven to warm the engine to normal run temp and go through the same D or R and into P, the RPM drops to nearly Zero and sometimes the engine stops.
This has happened in the past so I take out the MAF, squirt it good with MAF cleaner, put it back in and everything is hunky-doory. But not this time. What am I missing??
My 89 2.9 has gotten water in the oil. One year ago I pulled this engine to replace the crank shaft (defective Ford design 1/2 thust bearing created a nasty grove in the crank allowing it to slide back and forth1/4 inch), new bearings, oil pump, timming chain, all seals and gaskets (not head gasket). The engine had great compression so I didn't do any thing more. Now I have a leak. No oil in water. NO compression leaking off into the water jacket. No "steam" coming from the exhaust. I've replace the intake manifold gasket. It showed signs of water leaking through the gasket, actually bubbles of water trapped inside, so I hoped this was it, but I still have water in the oil. I have now removed the intake and driver side head (head gasket shows now sign of leaking). No signs of water in cylinders. Is it possible to have a warped intake manifold? I have removed it twice, and I was told that some V6's need to be slowly removed VIA de-torque the bolts. I didn't do it the first two times I removed it, today I did. I plan to remove the passenger side head tomorrow. I will take the intake down and have it tested for warping. I have read many stories on this web site of the heads getting cracks, but they all seem to be in or near the valves, I assume that allows water to be burned off as a steam engine OR compression being pumped back into the water jacket.
Is there any other source of the leak that I'm missing? Is it possibly my intake? OR should I go ahead and replace the heads?
I have a idle problem that happens on and off. with my 89 f250 351, it revs at 1900 rpm and when I unplug the vacuum hose to the map sensor it idles about 700 rpm. I've already replaced the map sensor and it does the same thing. i cant find any vacuum leaks anywhere and when i unplug the connector to the IAC nothing happens it continues to rev high.
View 2 RepliesA couple weeks ago I had my first oil change - not at the dealer - but at a place I've gone a hundred times. After I noticed every day a puddle, not a couple drops but a puddle going down my driveway or wherever I parked of water.
I thought for a few days it was condensation off the engine, or the AC, since it was very hot. Except I don't use the AC much & wasn't using it when the water was leaking. I looked under the car & there is a hose hanging from the back of the engine area & dripping water.
I've honestly never looked under the car & noticed the hose & it's only hanging about an inch - so I'm not sure I've just never noticed... But until the oil change there was never a noticeable water leak..
I have an '08 250SD diesel. The upper hose that goes onto the water pump has a leak. Is it usually just the Oring or the hose plastic fitting?
View 2 RepliesSo I just bottomed out really hard and I pulled over to a gas station to check out my car to see if I busted anything. I noticed on the way to the gas station that for the first two times I hit the brakes hard there was a clunking noise but now it went away. Onto the leaking part though, there are two hoses that run just along the inside of the frame on the passenger side just behind the wheel and one of the lines is leaking a lot of water. What these lines run to/from? I'm going to get the car on the lift tomorrow.
View 2 Replies1999 Ranger 4x4 4.0 - P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
I have replaced the 02 Sensor, Passenger Side (Pre-Cat), with a Motorcraft DY831...
I reset the Check Engine fault codes, and took it out for a 50 mile journey... Check Engine light is back on, with the same exact code... What next?
I understand that it may be a fuse, and/or it may be a short in the wiring... Exactly how to test the wiring from the connector at the 02 Sensor all the way back to wherever I need to test?
I really need detailed directions, like wire colors, voltage required, or ohms, or whatever is included in this process...
1992 3.0L aero crancks but won't start. Gives codes 114 and 116, these are about IAT and ECT sensors. Where is the ECT exactly located? I see 3 or 4 sensors that are screwed to intake manifold over there. I would like to find the sensor for dash cooling meter too, because it is moving only a fraction of the distance that it should. Thermosthat is checked, it seems to work.
View 2 RepliesThe gas pump/hose keeps shutting off when I fill my tank. The problem is progressively getting worse. No Codes. Truck runs fine. I looked at the filler neck and filler hoses. They appear to be original but no obvious signs of an issue...
View 9 RepliesI have a 98 Ranger with a 3.0 (5 speed) that has 254,000 miles on it. I drove it to town this morning (8 miles) and it ran normally. I stopped for just a few minutes at a house and when I re-started the truck, it was missing very bad and the CEL came on. It wouldn't haul itself in anything higher than 3rd gear. I decided to try to make it back home. I drove it less than two miles and it cleared up and started running perfect again. I came home anyway and read the code with my scan tool.
It said that I had a miss fire on cylinder #5. I erased the codes and shut the CEL out and its been running perfectly ever since. (I have put about 150 miles on it so far) If it does it again, I will start by replacing the plug wires. I have already done that but its been a long time ago. The plugs have been replaced twice as well. I was wondering if it could be something other than electrical like a dirty injector or maybe the compression rings lined up and it momentarily lost compression.
Looking for a pic of where the 2 vacuum lines go off the IMCR on a 2002 ranger 2.3. Changed engines now not sure where these hoses go.
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