Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Warning Light Won't Coming On?
Jul 12, 2013
'92 Ranger 2WD, brake and light inspection revealed the warning light isn't coming on. I guess there is a light that would come on in the instrument cluster either when the e-brake is on, or there is a problem in the system. The shop guy says often junk just builds up and prevents it from working; guess I will remove it to clean it up first. Guess it could also be a burned out bulb in the cluster. My Haynes book isn't very good on this.
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The warning light on the dash of my '96 ranger 4.0, auto with 233k miles started coming on. The only thing I have done recently was to replace my battery. Just trying to figure it out.
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I have a '99 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD. I've been having this problem with my rear brakes locking up on me while slowing down and pressing the pedal to stop the forward movement. There are four components which could cause the problem. My OEM Ranger Repair Manual suggested to replace the Proportional Control Valve which I did however that did not correct the problem. I don't have the Brake nor the ABS Warning light coming on and they check out OK during the start up. I have no problems braking from any speed except when coming to a stop. I inspected my front disk and the rear shoe brakes and they seemed to look OK. The other components which could cause the problem are the Control Module, RABS valve and the Speed Sensor. My question is: If any of these components malfunction, shouldn't the ABS Warning Light come on?
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I have a 98 Ranger 2wd reg cab 2.3L 5sp. Recently the airbag warning light was blinking 2-7 which indicates bad lamp in passenger airbag deactivation switch. Since the lamp has no numbers or markings on it, and my repair manual has no schematic on that part, where I can find the ma, wattage or ohm rating of the lamp? Or a part number / source for a replacement lamp?
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Ive got a '94 ranger with the 8 plugs and more often than not while driving and sometimes when it first starts, the cel comes on and immediately I notice a lil rough running and lack of power. Also my milage has dropped since this has started. Plugs, wires, o2 sensors, not to familiar with my gas saver. I love it cause I can just get in it and go. With twice the fuel milage as my bi truck!
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I have a 2007 Ford Ranger 3.0TDCI when I drive on a road that is bumpy or on a ground road the ABS light keeps coming on , sometimes it just flickers other times it keeps on for about 5minutes. I when for a service 3000km back but they told me the brakes is fine. What it can be?
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Last year I purchased a 2001 Ford Ranger XLT 4x2 V6 3.0L 48,000 miles, in perfect shape. I haven't had any problems until the last 6 months I have noticed the check engine light was on. Ok, while at Valvoline, the checked it and said it was a EGR code and that it might have been just an O2 sensor problem, something minor. So they just shut it off. Well it popped back on and I just figured I'd leave it alone. Maybe a mistake.
6 months later. So driving today the dang thing just quit and shut off? No warning, just everything shut off. It happened 3 more times...Then tonight, driving down the highway it shut off again, no warning? Happened 3 more times, couldn't make it home, called and had it towed to my apartment. $30 bucks later, at least my truck is at home.
So the problem is it won't stay running, and it just shuts off all of a sudden? It starts fine, drives fine, but unbeknownst to me it will just shut off, 1 minute later, 5 minutes later, it doesn't keep a pattern...It could be a million things I guess, but I'm not really able to pin point any exact locations. It's not making any funny noises, nothing fishy, but won't stay running. It's doesn't seem to be hurting for gas, it has 1/2 tank, no gurgling noise...
It's Saturday night and my Girlfriend's and I only transportation....So we have no vehicle until we can get this fixed, given that sunday no one will be open...we're playing it by ear.
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My '96 ranger with a 4.0 auto will be running fine and then dies. When you go to start, the engine will will crank over. Also notice that there are no lights coming on the dash when the key is in the run position. A few hours latter the truck started right up. Not reading any codes. Transmission was rebuilt a few weeks before this problem.
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My 96 4x2 2.3ltr is throwing this code (P1443). I clear it and it comes back a few cycles later. I will fix it next but won't be able to get to it for a couple weeks. What if any affect does this code have on fuel mileage and or engine performance/power?
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I have a 96 ranger with a 4.0 and an automatic transmission that has a horrible oil leak when cold. The leak looks to be coming out above and behind the oil filter. After running for a few minutes the oil leak appears to go away.
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My truck is pulsating when I am coming to a stop, a lot of you all said replace the rotors to which i did and new brakes, shocks. Today I went to get my truck all four wheel alignment done to my truck.. something is not right..
I got my driver tire facing straight, look at the left.. I went back to the alignment shop showed them that, they put it back up there, they called me over and pointed out the machine they use say, it is aligned.. So what is the problem you figure?
To update all I've done to the truck in regards to front end..
rack and pinion
upper control arm
upper lower ball joints
stabilizer inks
rotors (front)
brakes
shocks
When I straighten my left wheel, the right does not look right..
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I have a 2001 Mazda B3000. The a/c compressor is coming on while I'm running my heat. The air coming out while the heat is on stays warm. However, when I was running the A/C during the summer the air would start blowing out warm after it had been on for a while. Several people told me it may have something to do with the blend door or blend door actuator but both appear to be working fine. What it could be?
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My truck has been doing this since I got it and I can't figure it out. It's a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5 5Spd. It runs fine if you don't rev it above 2500-3000 rpm. After you rev it that high coming down to idle it is stumbling real bad and sometimes stalls. I've been driving it like this since I got it, and it does fine other than this. It gets better the longer you drive it, but it still will do it if you rev it high enough.
Here are all the parts I personally have changed (previous owner said he did the plugs and wires and air filter, which it looks like he did but I'm about ready to change them myself):
-Fuel filter
-coil packs
-timing belt
-egr valve
-cleaned throttle body
-iacv
-tps
-thermostat
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Changed my oil today. Noticed oil coming off the front of the engine. Where this could be originating or do I need to take the belt cover off? I hate having a leak. Wanna get it to stop. Just need to know what I may be up against. 1996 2.3ltr.....
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I have the problem that my 1996 ranger 4x4 has a break problem. When it comes to a stop it feels like one of the tires locks up, feel wired. Ihad the problem before i changed the front breakpads and it still continues. Air in the lines? ABS module?
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I have had a small antifreeze drip coming from up high around what I have been thinking was the water pump gasket. I have not pin pointed it exactly though. for the last 3 days i have been getting code po174 and now added po171 to that list. Also have something going on with my fuel fill vent or something as for a while now i have had to slowly squeeze in fuel to keep the pump from auto shut off on me like its full already. I have tried cleaning out that vent tube by spraying in carb cleaner even blowing on it but it seems to be a check valve, not able to blow in. i am thinking tonight that antifreeze leak may be related to those codes too. any thoughts? its on my 2003 ranger 3.0 flex fuel.
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When I test drove this 2004 Ranger Edge 4.0 I purchased about three weeks ago it had mucho AC cooling. So much so I had to turn it way down.
Today, when I could have used it, the AC has gone south. There is very moderate cool air coming out even on the turbo setting. Was actually better with the AC off and the windows open when the truck was on the road.
I got a sick feeling thinking maybe the dealer topped off the coolant knowing it had a leak but I have a push-on plastic coolant gauge and it is reading "filled" into that blue area about 25% of the way with the truck at idle and the AC on. The compressor is cycling on and off... mostly off, though. Not sure if that is normal or ??
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Did I get bent over? had a banging noise coming from the rear and took it to my regular shop, they told me the leaf spring shackle and hanger brackets were almost rusted thru and one more pothole and I'd be all over the road, so they ground out the rivets and replaced said brackets. I don't have the equipment to do that kind of work but I still feel it was a little high.
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My '91 Ranger 4X4 has developed an odd rattle that sounds like it's coming from the transfer case. It seems to be pretty much the same whether the truck is stopped or moving, or in Park or Reverse, or in 2wd or 4wd or Low Range. I hear it when the engine is just idling, with the transmission in Park and the parking brake on. It seems to be getting louder. I have the 4L V-6 with auto transmission.
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2000, 2.5L standard transmission. IAC replaced about 2 years ago, DPFE sensor and vacuum hoses replaced early last summer. Truck has been running just fine until I washed it last night. Went to work, and when coming to a stop and pressing in the clutch, engine starts to race without coming back to idle. Had to turn the truck off in order to get the engine from racing. Same thing on the way home. What else can/should I be looking at? I did not open the hood to wash the engine off, so it can't be water from the wash.
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My 2002 2.8 diesel ranger has recently been serviced replacing the turbo and a complete overhaul on the engine performed. I road tested it and it runs smooth... However, I am hearing a popping sound coming from the intake air filter. I was told it is because of the new turbo installed.
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