Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Two Piece Drive Line / Center Carrier Bearing Going Out
Oct 12, 2015
My 96 ranger with a 5 spd manual and two piece drive line has the center carrier bearing going out (squeals,vibrates,etc.) I got the part no. from the dealer but they are obsolete. is there a one piece drive line i could put in and what would that take to do.i remember a thread on it somewhere but cannot find it in the search. i would prefer not to use aftermarket because they only have a one year warranty.
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I am driving a 95 ranger xlt extended cab with a 3.0 two wheel drive with an automatic transmission. the two piece drive shaft with the carrier bearing went bad at the bearing. i separate the u-joint just after the bearing and was going to remove the nut holding the bearing housing together but cannot get the nut off. now i'm also finding out that i need a bearing puller to remove the damaged bearing from the 1st drive shaft.
Its turning into something i may not be able to finish. i saw on line an idea where a guy replaced the 2 piece shaft with a one piece. he states that a 1 piece drive shaft, 1998 or newer would work and no need for this bearing. you have to remove the cross member. it sound easier than what i'm trying to do. i looked at some old posts and galleries but did not see an article. here is a link to his website: How-To: Swapping a 2-Piece Drive Shaft for a 1-Piece in a 1983-1997 Ford Ranger
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Can I swap my 2 piece out for a one piece in my 88 ranger supercab? It is a 4x4 5 speed.
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i'm just wondering if i need to worry about preload and backlash if i just pull the carrier out and replace only the carrier bearings. would simply replacing the shims in there original side keep the specs where they should be with new bearings or would i have to completely dismantle the housing and start from scratch.
I only ask because you can move the entire carrier by hand and see the slack in the bearings but i don't seem to have any noises or vibrations coming from the rear end so i don't know if it's worth tearing into...
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So, my 2004 F250, CCSB, Fx4, 6.0l, truck broke the carrier bearing today. There is an annoying hum that modulates, the drive shaft has a lot of play and there is light visible at the top of the bearing. The problem is that it broke on a 550 mile trip to Franklin, TN and I need to make the return trip. Is there anything catastrophic that can happen running it this way?
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What is the size of the nut that needs to be removed so I can pull the carrier bearing off the drive shaft? I need to purchase a socket.
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I am looking to replace the carrier bearing and (u joints while I'm in there) on my 08 F-250. I do not have access to a lift so this will be done while on the ground. Am I asking for trouble by doing this on my back?
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I started with removing the two bolts that hold the carrier bearing to the crossmember that attaches on each side of the frame, well the clip that basically would hold the "nut part" of the bolt on the top side sheared on both of them due to salt+calcium chloride.
It felt like there was a 6 point head up there so I tried fitting wrenches and sockets up on the other side, I finally got a good hold with an 11/16" wrench but it just kept rounding more and more. Normally I would just torch the heads off but the gas tank is right next to it.
Any tips for getting the carrier bearing bolts out now? I don't care if I destroy it they're easy to replace. Also I'm typing this from my phone so Incase my sig doesn't show this is on my 02 f250 crew short bed 4x4
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So my ranger was having a textbook wheel-bearing noise at around 50mph....when I turned to the right the noise went away implicating a passenger side wheel bearing.
So I replaced both of the hub bearings on the pass side and noticed that the front axle shaft u-joint right behind the spindle was really bad and was going to change it but couldn't get the spindle off so I said screw it.
Took it for a drive and the noise is still there. Could a worn u-joint possible replicate a wheel bearing noise? I am used to them making a clicking/popping noise while turning when they're bad, but not a whirring sound.
1993 ranger 4x4 manual locking hubs.
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Trying to pull the passenger side axle off my 2004 3.3 SE Camry. The whole hub assembly is out of it so I have some room to work.
I can not get the axle carrier /bearing bracket off. This is the bracket that bolts to the block. The c-clip snap ring thing is removed from the the bearing carrier.
So I am jerking on the CV with a slide hammer, numerous times. Not sure if there has been any movement.
Any secrets? Does transmission have to be in neutral to release the axle from tranny or anything like that?
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I've got a 97 Ranger that popped a brake line. The rigid line burst above the rear axle, in the section that comes from the frame rail to the flexible "down" line.
Trouble is, the rigid line that burst disappears between the frame rail and the fuel tank and then comes out a DIFFERENT SIZE where it goes into the proportioning valve.
Looking for a diagram of that line as it travels forward along the frame rail or know where it changes size?
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93 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4WD.....
Putting in a new clutch and clutch release bearing, and am wondering if I need to put the retaining ring in that came with the new clutch release bearing? When I took off the old release bearing, a ring did come off from somewhere, but I did not see where it was because it was so dirty.
The reason I ask is because my Haynes manual did not even mention a ring, so I was surprised to see one come off. And my manual does not say to reinstall the ring when installing the release bearing. I did get a newer Haynes manual at the library and looked through a bunch of Chilton, etc manuals.
The newer Haynes manual says to remove the retaining ring on 97 and newer models, but says nothing about putting it back in when reinstalling. So, I am not certain if I need to put a new retaining ring in with the new release bearing.
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So 85 ranger with 2.3l and A4ld. I can manually shift to get first and 2nd. When i look at the vaccume diagram it shows these 2 blocks on the tranny,one box is connected to the next with a vac line. The other box has 2 lines, one goes to the main vaccume block on the intake and the other T's into a small capped off canister and the egr. I can only find one place for a vac line and its on the pasgr side of the tranny... Where is the block that the egr line connects too located? Its not on the tranny as far as i can tell.
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I have an 01 Ranger 4x4 that recently started to make a loud speed dependent noise from the drivers side front wheel, a quick jab to the right on the steering wheel and it stops, straiten out and it comes back...since I know my shocks are worn and have some cupping on the front tires my first thought was tire noise so I moved the back tire which is evenly worn to the front and no change, next I removed the tire and checked everything visually.
All seems ok, the brake does not seem to be dragging and there is no evidence of a cv problem, everything seems tight, so I'm guessing the problem is a bad wheel bearing? If I grab the tire at 12 and 6 there seems to be excessive movement from top to bottom, there should be none right? If memory serves any movement is indicative of bad wheel bearings? I guess I'm looking for some vindication before getting a new hub?
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I got a 1990 ford ranger 4.0l and is been leaking fuel from where the regulator conects to the fuel line the regulator is new. I cant find a new fuel line.
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I let my sister borrow my 1995 4 banger Ford Ranger for about a week. To make a long story short, when I drove it home I could smell a really strong gas odor so I pulled into a gas station and noticed gas pouring out of from what looked like the fuel filter area right under the driver's side.
Anyway, it took another 5 gallons to get home and I later crawled under and took a look. It looks like someone grabbed the fuel line and tried to unsuccessfully pull it out of the fuel filter by hand. I could literally see the imprint of the person's hand where they grabbed the line. They had pulled the line so hard that it crimped and split which is why gas was leaking like a water hose.
I picked up a Ranger specific Dorman fuel-line repair kit from Advance and had my brother install it for me as I'm no mechanic. It was fine for a few days and then I started to smell gas again so I crawled under and took a look. There's just barely a small leak coming from the connector barb/union on the kit. Anyway, I didn't know what else to do so I dropped the Ranger off at a local shop this evening. With that said, this is fixable, right?
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The T/O bearing makes a high pitch squeal until you put light pressure on clutch then it will go away. Does this thing have a preload on bearing at all times or should there be free play like in the old days??
Another thing that has me wondering is when I push clutch all the way in it actually puts a load on the engine. Having T/O bearing so bad it puts a load on the engine?
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I noticed a strange vibration in the 83 Ranger I own, it has the 2.3 and a 4 speed. When getting up to speed around 35MPH it would start vibrating, and the speedometer needle would bounce around and read slower than it was actually moving. This would start in 3rd gear, and continue thru 4th unless I let off the gas while it was in gear, then it stopped and worked normally. I put a grease seal in the tail section when I first got the truck, and when I pulled the driveshaft again today the seal was mangled and bent, plus there are metal particles around the main shaft where the seal goes. I figure the tail shaft bearing is shot, and I also found damage to the yolk with the U-joint, the shaft has a worn spot about 1/3rd the way around.
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2002 Ranger 2.3 duratec ... My Oil Needle jumps around from center to zero. (I am aware this could be/is a dummy light style). There is a Pressure switch attached to oil filter housing, I thought this was oil pressure sender. The pressure switch I was sold is cylinder with single prong connector. Not matching the sensor on oil filter housing. What sensor is on my oil filter housing? Also where is my oil pressure sender?
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I think I've tracked my power steering leak to some type of sensor on the pressure line, close to where it connects to the steering box:
I assume this is a pressure sensor? I got no CEL or anything like that when the fluid had leaked down to the level that the pump started whining pretty badly though. As far as I can tell by looking at pictures, the parts store replacement pressure lines do not have this sensor, or any provision to connect a sensor to it: Advance Auto Parts: Power Steering Pressure Hose by Powercraft - Part 71878
I may just put a replacement line on there and leave the sensor plug hanging and see what happens...
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I have a 93 Ranger xlt and after checking wheel cylinders and calipers first I have found a leak that is coming from the brake line or maybe the RABS module. The leak is up along the inside of the frame and I can't get in there because of the gas tank. Has to change line or RABS in that area and am I correct in thinking the gas tank has to come out to do anything in there.
Also, in the manual it says to plug the line as soon as you remove it(at wheel cylinders etc) so the fluid does not leak out of the RABS because it can't be bled without an expensive piece of equipment. I am pretty sure it probably emptied due to the leak location.
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