Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Truck Pulsating When Coming To A Stop
Apr 22, 2013
My truck is pulsating when I am coming to a stop, a lot of you all said replace the rotors to which i did and new brakes, shocks. Today I went to get my truck all four wheel alignment done to my truck.. something is not right..
I got my driver tire facing straight, look at the left.. I went back to the alignment shop showed them that, they put it back up there, they called me over and pointed out the machine they use say, it is aligned.. So what is the problem you figure?
To update all I've done to the truck in regards to front end..
rack and pinion
upper control arm
upper lower ball joints
stabilizer inks
rotors (front)
brakes
shocks
When I straighten my left wheel, the right does not look right..
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OK- the truck is a early '96 B4000 4.0, 5 speed 4x4. The key could be pulled from the ignition switch in the "run" position (worn key/lock cyl.) I got in the habit of not using the key (never turned the switch to "lock", just "off"). No issues, been driving the truck all over with no key for some time. Now I can't find the key and alarm fob. No worries, I'll just replace the ignition lock/cyl. Done.
Now the alarm is triggered, and I can't stop it. Truck won't crank, either. I assume the no crank condition is the result of the anti-theft being active. I assumed that because I had been driving around with no key, that I did not have a "chipped" key, assuming the truck wouldn't run unless the "chipped" key was in the switch. Since it ran fine, the assumption was no chip. Now I'm not so sure.
What I would like to do is disable the anti-theft/alarm system totally. Pulling the fuse is no good b/c that kills the fuel supply. Is this possible, or do I scrap the truck? I've found 2 sources on the web that indicate that grounding the the green/purple wire that goes into the drivers door will disable the system.
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This has happened 3 times.
1st) pulled quickly over to side of road, shut off truck. It would not start then. Towed it to service station and it started the next morning (with no repair made). I wonder if tow ride dislodged the the blockage in fuel line(?). Always sounds like it's going to turn over, but like not getting fuel.
2nd) Went to leave work, truck wouldn't start. Towed to my mechanic and he replaced fuel pump. Thought it was fixed because it ran fine until just the other day.
3rd) Slowed down to complete stop in heavy traffic and it stalled. Would not restart. Again sounded like it was going to start but didn't seem to be getting fuel. Good samaratins pushed me off road. Had it towed to mechanic. Started the next morning without any repair or service. It's like the tow ride and bumps getting it off the tow truck dislodges what ever is blocking the fuel line.
My mechanic replaced the fuel pump, but I don't think her replaced the fuel filter.
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Started up my truck today, accel pedal didn't want to move, after giving it some more force it eventually became "unstuck". Now, the real issue I'm having is from a dead stop, in 1st gear, as I'm letting out the clutch the truck boggs down as if I'm not trying to accelerate. I'm giving it as much as I normally would as I'm letting out the clutch but the motor will either die or take a couple seconds before it starts to go. Once I'm moving I don't notice any problems clutching through gears. The check engine light IS on now, however I don't have any diagnostic gear or really any tools for that matter. 1998 2.4L 5-speed...
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I have the problem that my 1996 ranger 4x4 has a break problem. When it comes to a stop it feels like one of the tires locks up, feel wired. Ihad the problem before i changed the front breakpads and it still continues. Air in the lines? ABS module?
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
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2001 4.0 4x4 auto trans... Problem, tranny judders when coming to a stop moving at around 3-4mph. Engine drops to around 500rpm and maybe one second later returns to normal as the tranny seems to disengage. No judder or shifting problem when accelerating.
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My truck jumps or runs roughly... I don't know how to describe it. It's like if someone dumped the clutch. It's a manual, it does it through all gears, so I don't think it's the transmission. I was thinking it might be the fuel pump, but I don't know how to diagnose it. I've got an 83 with the cologne v6. I think it's just got the engine driven fuel pump, no electric, but I'm not sure. Either way, I think it could either be the fuel pump or maybe a vacuum leak.
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My truck rattles when going up hills. The higher the rpm,the more it rattles. It sounds like a heat shield shaking. Also, when I accelearate on a flat road, I hear this very light knocking sound.
Motor has 190 000 km and is due for an oil change. Spark plugs and plug wires have been replaced. Engine sounds good when I rev it. No abnormal sounds. So, what would be my issue? Carbon build up?
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1994 FORD RANGER stalls while driving - differant speeds ...differant miles ...no rhyme or reason to it - cranks right back up ...can even pop clutch and cut it back on. Already replaced Ignition Start Module - Dpes sensor - temp sensor - and scan shows all codes are clear and truck passes. We are clueless to whats causing this. 4 cyl 2.1
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I have a 95 Ranger with the 2.3L and it is a five speed. I am having a starting issue. I have replaced the ignition switch, clutch position switch, starter relay and had the starter tested. The truck will not start with the key. I can jump across the relay and it starts fine but will not even click with the key.
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I had my battery out for quite some time. When I put in a brand new battery my key was not recognized and my truck will not start.
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Although my lil' truck (2006 Ranger XLT, 2WD,with 4-cyl / 5spd, and 115K miles) has been running just fine since I bought it about a year & 5K miles ago, I suspected it still had its original spark plugs and I figured I should change them before problems arrived.
As I suspected, the plugs that I took out looked to be original. I measured their gap and they all had excessive plug gaps - around 0.052" gap. I installed the four new AUTOLITE APP104 (double platinum) and checked their gap, and they were a bit tight at 0.042". My book says they should be at 0.044" gap. But I installed them at 0.042 anyway, figuring they'll burn wider in time.
One by one, I smeared a small bit of never-seize on the plug threads & at the plug-to-cyl head tapered edge. I smeared a dab of Dielectric Grease around at the top of the plug to ease the plug wire re-install and hopefully calm any possible arching. The plug wires came off the plugs easy enough and went back on just as easy.
I hit the key and the engine fired right up. It idled rough as expected. However, it continued to idle rough and if I raised the RPM level, it would respond, but still ran rough. It is throwing a 'Check Engine Light' on the dash cluster now - whereas it wasn't prior to the new plugs.
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Last night I decided to see if I couldn't do something about my leaky carburetor in my 1983 ranger. It's a motorcraft 2150 carb. I took it all apart and followed a guide to clean it, then put it all back together and reinstalled it today. Unfortunately my truck won't idle, makes a whiny noise, and acts odd with the accelerator.
I've got a video posted here : 1983 Ranger Carb troubles - YouTube ....
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I tried to explain this to a garage in January with no luck. When it is raining I hit my brakes and my truck jerks like whiplash. Softly hitting brakes doesn't do it, normally hitting them does it (only in the rain), I had some welding done after I went to the garage.... They fixed the front passenger side now it feels like it is under me and it is now doing it when I brake in reverse too... I bought it October 2012 and it was safety inspected until October 2014. Trying to decide if it is worth keeping. I want to keep it but when I go to a garage they see dollar signs. It only acts up when it's raining. And I had the welding done in January and it was fine, until I got new tires last week.
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Ok, I replaced the head gaskets on this truck a couple years back and now I am having symptoms similar to the ones I was having then. I am not entirely convinced that this is what is wrong however.
Symptoms:
Truck was idling rough until it warmed up
Truck takes forever to warm up or simply does not warm up
If/when it warms up it operates at higher than normal temp/almost overheats(it hasn't overheated yet)
Heater blows very cold air
White smoke(has been cold outside so not sure if due to temp or coolant)
Overflow bubbled when I shut the truck off, but it has only happened once so far
I am kind of at a loss, but like I said am suspicious of the head gaskets.
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I have a 2002 Ford Ranger, and it wont start at all. Ive replaced the starter, had the battery checked. Not the battery, took starter out, had it checked too, its not the starter either. Someone said it maybe a fuse? This is totally frustrating, and I need to get it figured and fixed asap. Its been going on for weeks., I had it fixed and then it just stopped. It wont even take a jump anymore.
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That's the best way I can describe part my latest problem. If I'm stopped at a light, a lot of the time it almost feels like it wants to stall when I first pull out. Then, it seems like it is shifting funny at certain speeds like the transmission can't decide what gear it wants to be in. Tends to do that about mid acceleration (don't have an rpm gauge to look at). At idle it seems to run fine. BTW, engine also runs rough with the ac on.
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I have an 03' Ranger and I assume it has the BW 1354 tcase. I am getting a "clank" sound when the truck shifts from 1st to 2nd. I am thinking its the rear output yoke on the t case. I can grab it and move it up and down but there is no fluid leaking or anything. Would this be a rear bearing problem?
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OK...When I leave in the morning and the ambient temperature is cool the truck runs fine. When I leave work and the temperature is warm to hot the truck backfires through intake, pings bad, has a miss and a surge and no power. There is no CE light, this is about to drive me nuts. I was just hoping (doubting) but hoping someone else might have had this problem so I don't just have to start replacing things until it's fixed.
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I have a 1995 ford ranger v6 4.0 and for this week Ive been having a problem, stalling... It only happens when I do quick "stop and go" driving. Even sometimes at stop lights it wants to stall, the only way to keep it going is to keep my foot on the gas.
Now for a while when its cold or my truck has been sitting for a day or two the truck doesn't start on the first click.
I've had the fuel pressure checked, changed fuel pump, and starter. I have no check engine light on at the moment. Tomorrow I am gonna check with my scan tool just to make sure. But, it could be fuel pressure regulator, idle air control actuator, egr valve? How I should go along doing this?
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