Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Truck Jerks When Hit Brakes In The Rain
Dec 3, 2013
I tried to explain this to a garage in January with no luck. When it is raining I hit my brakes and my truck jerks like whiplash. Softly hitting brakes doesn't do it, normally hitting them does it (only in the rain), I had some welding done after I went to the garage.... They fixed the front passenger side now it feels like it is under me and it is now doing it when I brake in reverse too... I bought it October 2012 and it was safety inspected until October 2014. Trying to decide if it is worth keeping. I want to keep it but when I go to a garage they see dollar signs. It only acts up when it's raining. And I had the welding done in January and it was fine, until I got new tires last week.
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I got a 1997 Ford Ranger 2.5L that randomly jerks on the highway and I can't figure out what the problem is. This morning I had a 3 hour drive and it was fine on the first hour and then the last 2 hours it will randomly jerk on the highway and then be find for a little bit and then do it again. I don't know what the issue is? I did scan my car this morning and did have two code P0141 and P0113 not sure if these would have anything to do with it or not. Also my speedometer is hit or miss when it works, other than that everything else is fine on the car no check engine light or anything like that.
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Its a 2007 f150 v6. has 55,000 miles. just got her new tires for Christmas. the truck has doing this for awhile. when you use the brakes the pedal pulsates and the truck jerks back and forth. Feels like bent rotor or something. I've been doing it about a year keeps getting worse. Last year I had the rotors turned and put new pads on got a little better. But not for long continued to get worse again. So I just bought new rotors and pads and still sucks. I thought it could be a bent rim so I just rotated the tires and still no better. Where should i go from here? calipers? something in the front end loose?
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2001 M B3000 v6 my sons truck w 122k. He is overseas and I took it to deliver a CB750 bike to my brother in law... 4oo miles away from my place.
In the middle of nowhere TX it developed a bad miss or knock, almost a shudder in the 2 to 3 k rpm range. Idles ok just below 1k runs fine at 70 mph as long as the rpm is near or over 3k.
Not sure I want to turn around and drive back the 400 with it running like crap. I will take it to Autozone and pull codes tomorrow a.m. but what should I expect?
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When we have a heavy rain water leaks in on both sides saturating the floor board.
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I have a 99 Ranger 4.0 4x4. When driving on a hill, the truck cuts back and looses power. I can press the pedal and go into passing gear and it will pick up speed but that is the only way the speed will increase and not slow down. The truck jerks when this happens.
Things I have tried:
Replace all plugs and wires
Replaced Coil Pack
Replaced Mass Air Flow sensor
Replaced O2 sensor
Replaced throttle cable
Took truck out of overdrive
Changed to better grade of gas
Changed oil
I had Cat. Converter checked
There are no codes showing. Truck may drive OK on one trip but act up on the return. It seems to use a lot more gas when it is acting up. I now have run out of options that I know about.
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My 1988 Ranger has started leaking a gush of water onto the feet of passengers the first time I accelerate after a heavy rain. I saw the water flowing out from behind the glove box area as I started driving forward. How to fix this leak?
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Whenever it rains a substantial amount, like all day I go out to my 92 Ranger and get in and notice the passenger side rubber floor mat has a puddle of water on it. I look under the floor mat and only the center of the carpet there is wet. I see it's getting the edge of that side of the headliner wet and ruining the new headliner had redone. I didn't realize there was water leaking until I got my headliner redone and put back in. It very well could have been leaking causing the headliner cloth to all tear. It's wet along the top passenger side where the grab handle is and the plastic trim. I thought it was the rain gutter on top of the roof so I put in some black silicone and some of it stopped but not all.
So I thought it was still leaking at the front corner so I put more silicone in. Don't know yet if that was what it was for sure but I'll find out tomorrow because it's raining pretty good right now. But just in case where else could it be getting this much water in. If you go through a carwash, or hose it down for awhile, or even drive while it's raining bad it won't get water inside. I'm not convinced it's the rain channel 100% because on the driver's side the putty filling the rain channel on the roof looks worse than the passenger side and there's no water coming in on the driver's side. There is no water coming in the back or on the back carpet or headliner.
I don't see any evidence around the windshield. I can't understand why only the middle of the passenger side carpet is soaked and not the top or under the seat, unless it's just soaking through the rubber floor mat and not drying out. It's getting so frustrating because I can't visibly find any evidence, I have to wait until it rains and then I can't see why it happens. It's ruining my carpet and my new headliner. I want to replace the carpet but want the leak stopped first. Where are common trouble areas on these 92 Rangers for water leakage?
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My truck jumps or runs roughly... I don't know how to describe it. It's like if someone dumped the clutch. It's a manual, it does it through all gears, so I don't think it's the transmission. I was thinking it might be the fuel pump, but I don't know how to diagnose it. I've got an 83 with the cologne v6. I think it's just got the engine driven fuel pump, no electric, but I'm not sure. Either way, I think it could either be the fuel pump or maybe a vacuum leak.
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My truck rattles when going up hills. The higher the rpm,the more it rattles. It sounds like a heat shield shaking. Also, when I accelearate on a flat road, I hear this very light knocking sound.
Motor has 190 000 km and is due for an oil change. Spark plugs and plug wires have been replaced. Engine sounds good when I rev it. No abnormal sounds. So, what would be my issue? Carbon build up?
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1994 FORD RANGER stalls while driving - differant speeds ...differant miles ...no rhyme or reason to it - cranks right back up ...can even pop clutch and cut it back on. Already replaced Ignition Start Module - Dpes sensor - temp sensor - and scan shows all codes are clear and truck passes. We are clueless to whats causing this. 4 cyl 2.1
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I have a 95 Ranger with the 2.3L and it is a five speed. I am having a starting issue. I have replaced the ignition switch, clutch position switch, starter relay and had the starter tested. The truck will not start with the key. I can jump across the relay and it starts fine but will not even click with the key.
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I have 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0. In Nov. I had the tranny rebuilt in Boston and also had new rotors and pads put on the front. By the time I got home, the truck was shaking badly when I hit the brakes. Since then, after it's parked a while, (I drive it once a week or so) I can't get it to move in "Drive". Reverse works fine. I thought it was the tranny but if I increase the gas flow, the rear wheels will screech, so I think the front brakes are stuck. After I'm able to "break" whatever holding them, the truck works fine. One of the rear wheel drum brakes is too tight and the wheel will feel pretty warm when I get it home and that will be taken care of but I don't really think it's the rear brakes or they wouldn't screech when I hit the gas.
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I had to replace the tie rods in my mazda b2300 and the mechanic also replaced the brake pads.
Now when I drive, I can hear the pump for the brake fluid going on and off when I'm not even using the brakes and the ABS goes on a lot too.
He tried resetting the computer by unplugging the battery for a bit but it's still doing it.
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I had my battery out for quite some time. When I put in a brand new battery my key was not recognized and my truck will not start.
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Although my lil' truck (2006 Ranger XLT, 2WD,with 4-cyl / 5spd, and 115K miles) has been running just fine since I bought it about a year & 5K miles ago, I suspected it still had its original spark plugs and I figured I should change them before problems arrived.
As I suspected, the plugs that I took out looked to be original. I measured their gap and they all had excessive plug gaps - around 0.052" gap. I installed the four new AUTOLITE APP104 (double platinum) and checked their gap, and they were a bit tight at 0.042". My book says they should be at 0.044" gap. But I installed them at 0.042 anyway, figuring they'll burn wider in time.
One by one, I smeared a small bit of never-seize on the plug threads & at the plug-to-cyl head tapered edge. I smeared a dab of Dielectric Grease around at the top of the plug to ease the plug wire re-install and hopefully calm any possible arching. The plug wires came off the plugs easy enough and went back on just as easy.
I hit the key and the engine fired right up. It idled rough as expected. However, it continued to idle rough and if I raised the RPM level, it would respond, but still ran rough. It is throwing a 'Check Engine Light' on the dash cluster now - whereas it wasn't prior to the new plugs.
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Last night I decided to see if I couldn't do something about my leaky carburetor in my 1983 ranger. It's a motorcraft 2150 carb. I took it all apart and followed a guide to clean it, then put it all back together and reinstalled it today. Unfortunately my truck won't idle, makes a whiny noise, and acts odd with the accelerator.
I've got a video posted here : 1983 Ranger Carb troubles - YouTube ....
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Ok, I replaced the head gaskets on this truck a couple years back and now I am having symptoms similar to the ones I was having then. I am not entirely convinced that this is what is wrong however.
Symptoms:
Truck was idling rough until it warmed up
Truck takes forever to warm up or simply does not warm up
If/when it warms up it operates at higher than normal temp/almost overheats(it hasn't overheated yet)
Heater blows very cold air
White smoke(has been cold outside so not sure if due to temp or coolant)
Overflow bubbled when I shut the truck off, but it has only happened once so far
I am kind of at a loss, but like I said am suspicious of the head gaskets.
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My truck is pulsating when I am coming to a stop, a lot of you all said replace the rotors to which i did and new brakes, shocks. Today I went to get my truck all four wheel alignment done to my truck.. something is not right..
I got my driver tire facing straight, look at the left.. I went back to the alignment shop showed them that, they put it back up there, they called me over and pointed out the machine they use say, it is aligned.. So what is the problem you figure?
To update all I've done to the truck in regards to front end..
rack and pinion
upper control arm
upper lower ball joints
stabilizer inks
rotors (front)
brakes
shocks
When I straighten my left wheel, the right does not look right..
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I have a 2002 Ford Ranger, and it wont start at all. Ive replaced the starter, had the battery checked. Not the battery, took starter out, had it checked too, its not the starter either. Someone said it maybe a fuse? This is totally frustrating, and I need to get it figured and fixed asap. Its been going on for weeks., I had it fixed and then it just stopped. It wont even take a jump anymore.
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Little back story, truck sat up for 2 years. Had 1/2 tank of gas in it that time. I had to do a complete motor swap. I been driving for past couple of days. Had it stall on me while I was waiting on wife to come out of store. Thought it was just bad gas. Today I was heading to town and had to slam on brakes and it started to stall again. It shut off. I cranked it back up and it runs fine till I start slowing down. then it wants to die.
I can keep my foot on gas petal and little and it will stay running. I got to where I was heading and put it in park and it idled fine for a few seconds and then I could hear a whine from the fuel tank. Sounds like the fuel was having a hard time, like it was fighting the pressure build.
Thing is It cranks right back up and drives fine as long as I dont come to quick stop or set idling for a few seconds. I can hear the pump straining, so I am assuming that when I keep my foot on gas a little the pressure is staying lower and not as much is being bypassed and the pump is fine. I think the pump is on its way out but wanted to hear what yall think.
I do have a brand new IAC valve that I bought and did not get a chance to use on the blown motor.
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