Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Truck At Times Cranks But Does Not Start - Hot Or Cold
Mar 29, 2012
Removing fuel injectors-coolant contamination.. How is this done? I need to see if they are any good-or clean/replace them-after I accidentally left the clip off the hose running out of the thermostat housing when I drained my coolant last week and the first time I drove, coolant leaked onto the top of the engine/manifold depressions, getting onto and into the fuel injectors.
I tried to clean it up as much as possible the first time(finally got it going) but still a few days later the truck at times cranks but does not start-hot or cold. I assume my idiocy is the cause or maybe it is just coincidence of something else? From what I read from my symptoms it could also be the fuel pump relay, pressure regulator, coolant temp sensor, crank sensor.. among other things. My fuel pump is 1.5 years old, so hopefully that isnt it. Have the injectors possibly been contaminated to where I should just replace them?
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My 1990 4.0 refuses to start when the air temperature outside is at approx 40 degrees or below. It will crank until the battery runs dead if I let it. At approx 50 degrees farenheit the truck takes forever to start and always backfires out of the tailpipe and intake manifold (blowing off a hose on the vacuum tree) before it starts. If I can get it to backfire, it will start eventually. If it does not backfire, then I can run the battery dead and the truck still refuses to start. This condition has grown from a little problem to a huge problem over the past 6 months. Here is what I have done so far, including regular maintenance items.......
KOEO test checked OK
KOER test returned code 77 multiple times (TPS).
Replaced Throttle pos. sensor
Replace Idle air bypass valve
Subsequent KOER test came back with no more codes except 11 - OK
Load tested battery
Made new heavy gauge battery cables for + and -
New plugs, wires
newer starter
Changed coil pack for known good one off my explorer
Visually inspected hoses for vacuum leaks, replaced 1 cracked hose
1990 Ranger ext cab 4X2 4.0L, K&N air filter in stock airbox, Pacesetter headers, single 2 1/2" exhaust, stock cat no muffler, 260K on truck, 104K on good used engine from my 1994 Explorer. Purchased Ranger brand new in 1990. A4LD w/ shift kit.
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We have a 2007 Ranger. When the temps hit 32 degrees F or below, the truck won't start. The security system light comes on. We have to run through the security system reset process, sometimes a few times, before it will start. Afraid all this key turning is going to burn out the ignition. Don't have a lot of confidence in my Ford dealer as they replaced the brakes and put the shims in wrong. Local mechanic says it's probably electrical. Is there anyway to bypass the security system or can it be removed?
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85 2.0L Dura Ranger.
All of the Idle control wiring and box and sensors have been removed; all else is original. The truck ran just fine after the removal of the above paraphernalia (years). The truck simply quit, no spark at the coil, cranks just fine. All of the wiring has been checked for continuity. The Following components have been replaced with new:
Ignition switch.
Coil.
Dura-spark Box.
Dist coil.
Starter solenoid.
Rotor & Cap.
Plugs and wires.
Correct voltage is present at the coil & D-spark box side of the connector.
Coil tests close to what I think is correct for resistance and the engine ran with it.
I have tested both sides of every connector. I'm not sure what the output side of the D-Spark box (blue tab) voltages should be, and I am unable to test the trigger signal at the coil, however with no output and power in I'm guessing that is the problem...
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I have heard from a few people that it might be the computer that is messed up. Just replaced cap and rotor, spark plugs, wires, fuel filters. Pump turns on. Cranks and cranks but won't start. Took the intake cover off and tried starting it, all it did was back fire. Checked the firing order and everything is right. So im left with guessing at the computer and ignition??
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Ok, went out last night to go over to a buddies place to watch some football. Tried to start my truck but all that happened is that it would turn over, but not start. Had plenty of juice in the battery, and 1/2 tank of gas. It acted like it wanted to start, but nothing doing - just keeps cranking and cranking. Its even more frustrating because I was driving it around most of the day before this happened.
Here's the dillema: Its been doing this for the past two months now on and off. Once I fix something, it runs for about a month, and then it starts doing this again, without any warning signs (i.e. multiple cranks before a start, stalling, hesitation on accel., etc.). At this point I'm clueless. I've replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and air filter, but the problem has resurfaced again.
An interesting thing to note is that the only ways I'm able to get it started when it starts doing this is to remove the electrical connection from the intertia switch, and crank the engine a few times to relieve the fuel system pressure. After reconnecting the inertia switch, the truck starts instantly.
So whats the deal? Why this would work, and why suddenly the thing would not start after weeks and weeks of driving flawlessly? Is it possible that my system is either too pressurized or losing pressure somehow, and that is how it be able to start? A buddy suggested it might be injectors, but I'm not so sure, because there is no hesitation on accel or performance loss, or even a rough idle.
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My 1999 Ranger that I bought used has been serving me well. However, two days ago I went to visit a friend and when I tried to start the truck to go home, the engine cranked but would not fire. I assumed that perhaps I had flooded the engine, so I walked home. I went back an hour later and the truck started up immediately. Then, yesterday, the truck would not fire at all. I towed it to AutoZone to check for error codes, but none were found. I put my inductive timing light on a plug wire and found that there was no spark.
In one instance of cranking, the timing light blinked and the engine tried to fire, but then nothing. The AutoZone man suggested changing the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. I haven't done that yet, but that is my next plan. Can the Ford dealer find error codes that tell what is preventing an engine from starting that AutoZone can't see? For sure there is no spark, but maybe there is no fuel either since I don't smell gas after much cranking. Could it be the inertia switch cutting off both fuel and spark?
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My kid is using my 94 Ranger with 215,000 miles. It quit while he was on his way to work. Engine cranks but won't start.
Fuel pressure at rail was 12 psi (Key on eng. off). I replaced fuel pump. Pressure at rail up to 20 psi. Still cranks, no start.
I replaced fuel filter. Pressure at rail up to 30 psi. Still cranks, no start.
Replaced distributor cap/rotor and plugs. I have spark at plugs.
Chiltons from 1994 doesn't list a rail fuel pressure. I see new fuel pressure regulators are set at 41 psi. I pulled mine and hooked air to it. It (FPR) cracks at 37 psi. I have lots of flow returning to tank, so I assume the fuel system is working correctly. I've never replaced the timing chain/sprockets. Distributor rotor spins during engine cranking. When I rotate the crank pulley to 0 Top Dead Center the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor, so I don't think the timing chain has skipped a tooth on the sprocket??????
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2004 3.0L Ranger Edge, 88,000 miles on it, I am the original owner. It won't start. It cranks strongly. Usually when this happens, I have to reset the fuel pump inertia switch. This time, resetting the switch does not work. I disconnected the switch and jumped the two wires going to it, but still no start. The switch seems to work ok, in that I can reset it (a ball, spring, and magnet mechanism, I think), then shake it and the ball will come loose.
The fuel pump 20A fuse in the engine compartment is good. The fuel pump relay in the engine compartment is good (I switched it out with an identical relay that runs the fog lights without problem). I am getting spark. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but pressing in the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail produces gas.
Usually, when the inertia switch is tripped I can get the engine to briefly start by using starter fluid in the air intake. But not this time. I do not hear the fuel pump kicking in when I turn the ignition key to the "On" position, and that would lead me to think that the pump is bad. Except, I don't get a brief start using starter fluid. The fuel filter has never been changed, but again, since I get no start with starter fluid, I don't see how that could be the problem. OBDII scan shows no codes.
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working on a 84 ranger it did run fine for 3 wks then while driving there was a thump and it stopped and wouldn't start. Now working on it has spark cranks but won't start. while trying to start when I let off the key it tries to catch but only at that time not when the key is turn to start normal. we poured fuel into the carb and it still didn't start. Leaning toward compression maybe?
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i have a 96 ranger with a 2.3l engine sometimes it will start right up and sometimes it has to crank 4 or 5 times to start i just gave it a tuneup and changed the oil and filter. should i run sea foam through the oil system,it sat for about seven years and i need to convert the idiot gauge to a real gauge.
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99 Ford Ranger disguised as Mazda B2500. (Same vehicle I think) 5 speed manual, 4 cyl., no a/c. Bought new and maintained according to schedule. Randomly fails to start. Cranks but won't turn over. I try several hours later and am able to start it. Mechanic has not been able to duplicate the failure to start. Checked thoroughly and finds no problem. I am very hesitant to drive it like this.
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2007 Ranger 4.0.... Initial start of the day it cranks a bit longer than it should. After warm, it starts fine.
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Made a trip to the hardware store yesterday. When I came out, the truck would crank just fine, but wouldn't start (98 4.0L 4x4). Tried adding gas, no luck. I had actually called a wrecker, but it eventually started after sitting for about an hour. All I did differently was hit the gas pedal a couple of times. Thinking it may be a low fuel pressure problem, I took it to autozone this morning (started it about 4 times now with no problems). Checked the fuel pressure, and it sat at a solid 65 lbs at idle. I tried holding the throttle open and it stayed at the same pressure. I forgot to try with the vacuum off.
First off, I've seen some people say 60 lbs is right, but more say it should be at about 45lbs. 45 seems right since the fuel return is on the block, not on the pump. I'm guessing the fuel damper went out, but is there any good way to check it? Also, since the damper is vacuum controlled, would a bad vacuum cause this problem? Third, could high fuel pressure cause it to not start? That's the one I'm most worried about what was wrong there.
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i just rebuilt the motor in my 2002 ford ranger 3.0 and it wont start it cranks over but back fires and bucks alot. took the plugs out and it gets spark and fuel. when it sparks it sparks like multiple times.
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So it often just cranks for 15 seconds before it fires. I put the fuel pressure guage on it and you turn the key on but don't engage the starter it goes to 30 psi then back to 0 in a 2 second time frame. It then stays at zero. when you engage the starter pressure slowly goes up and it starts running while running its a consistent 60 psi.
I presume its the fuel regulator but why does it not go up to 60 psi and why does it just stop with the KOEO? Is it reasonable to just replace the regulator? or should I be replacing the fuel pump to at the same time? I will be doing this from under the truck since there is a lot of hard mounted equipment in the bed.
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I have a 95 Ranger with the 2.3L and it is a five speed. I am having a starting issue. I have replaced the ignition switch, clutch position switch, starter relay and had the starter tested. The truck will not start with the key. I can jump across the relay and it starts fine but will not even click with the key.
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I had my battery out for quite some time. When I put in a brand new battery my key was not recognized and my truck will not start.
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I have a 2002 Ford Ranger, and it wont start at all. Ive replaced the starter, had the battery checked. Not the battery, took starter out, had it checked too, its not the starter either. Someone said it maybe a fuse? This is totally frustrating, and I need to get it figured and fixed asap. Its been going on for weeks., I had it fixed and then it just stopped. It wont even take a jump anymore.
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I have a 96 ranger 4.0L shift lever was very sloppy and one of the torq bolt fell on the floor I used loc tite and tightened them up with no problem put everything back together and now it wont start. I think I checked everything even replaced the neutral safety switch, adjusted the tranny cable, checked fuses and switched around the relays maybe an ignition switch? I am running out of stuff to troubleshoot.
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My 03 Ranger 4.0L has become a mystery that has baffled every one I know. Everything was fine and I ran home to something from my house was in there maybe 10 minutes came out and the truck wouldn't start. it doesn't even crank over. out of the clear blue. I had a friend who works for a garage check it and he thinks timing chain. Since then I have been told it wouldn't just fall off sitting there with no indication at all there was a problem.
Thought maybe PATS system. Its in order. Put in on a computer from auto-zone and it shows a check engine light but the reading is there is no codes in the computer on file. I am at a loss. Its been months and I really cant afford to take it to a garage right now. Its the strangest thing ever no crank, no stalling just nothing I hit the switch it lights up like its ready to start and nada.
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