Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Transmission Adjustment / Rough Downshift Into 2nd Gear About 15 Or 16 Mph
Jan 31, 2013
My 93' Ranger XLT extra cab 2wd, 4.0 engine and A4LD auto tranny with 126,600 miles has a rough downshift into 2nd gear about 15 or 16 mph. Down shift to 1st is real smooth and upshifting thru the gears is smooth. I just put a new modulator valve on it and upshifts smooth out, they were getting to be hard shifts before changing that valve. I do not know if there is any adjustment that can be made to smooth out the rough downshift when slowing down to a stop for red light. The U-joins are in good shape and new carrier bearing assembly on driveshaft and no extra play in the rear end. A band adjustment maybe or just have to live with it.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
View 9 Replies
My buddy has a 97 Ranger 4X4 Automatic. The gear selector has become out of adjustment. To get the truck started you have to pull up on it (the gear selector) and it is getting worse by the drive. I think it is going to leave him stranded in the near future if it is not bought back in to adjustment.
View 6 Replies
So my 92 4.0 automatic has always been kind of a slug since we've bought it with 101,000 miles on it. It's been tuned properly and fuel pump, filter, and regulator been replaced. It runs pretty good but when you're going highway speed or even like 45-50 and stomp the gas it doesn't feel as if it's downshifting. The transmission looks like it may have been replaced or maintained, it shifts good, pulls good. Fluid is clear and clean, no leaks, no burning. I see that it has a vacuum modulator valve but don't know where it hooks up to. I can barely see it behind my catalytic converter. It will have to be removed to change it for sure. But I'm trying to see where the vacuum line goes from that modulator valve. I see the valve but I didn't really notice a vacuum hose coming off of it but again my view was obstructed by the catalytic converter. Would it cause hesitation problems if it was bad or not even hooked up?
View 1 Replies
I bought the 94 B2300 from a guy that said he got it from an auction and didn't know much bout it. Got 30 mins down the road and went to down shift to 4th coming into town and all I got was grinding. Turned it off and it would go into other gears and start in gear with the clutch pushed in. Wen I tried to take off it wouldn't move and just died. Towed it home and installed a new clutch kit in it. Got the clutch bled and went to test drive it and now it is stuck in 1st gear. Can it be easily fixed or am I going to have to replace the transmission...
View 3 Replies
I have a problem with a bmw 1996 7 series transmission.When I start driving the car all gears shift fine, but when I come to a stop it won't downshift to first gear,i have to put the car in park and then in drive again and it run ok until I come to a stop again.
View 4 Replies
I have a 1987 ford ranger 4x4 2.9l v6 but my transmission slips out of gear and its auto im not sure why but ive been told im missing a over drive gear is this a possibility or what???
View 1 Replies
I just had a 97 Ford Ranger with a 3 speed overdrive transmission in my garage that we replaced the transmission because it was not shifting down into first gear, not even manually!. The new transmission is doing the exact same thing as the original.
View 5 Replies
The reverse gear went out in my 97 ford ranger with automatic transmission. I took the transmission out and replaced the reverse band, cleaned everything up, put it all back together and back in and filled it up with fluid. Unfortunately, between me and my assistant, we did not secure the pump correctly and sheared the ears off it. It made a racket when we started it. It would go through all gears while jacked up but when on the ground it had no power. It would barely move. And there was no fluid coming through the pump when I cracked the lines. We pulled it all out again, took it to a shop, put on a new pump and had them reassemble it all and we put it back in, making sure to do it right this time. But I still don't have the power I had before all this. It's very sluggish in all gears. There was no racket on start up this time. And when I crack the lines there is intermittent fluid loss but not a constant flow. I really don't want to pull this thing again. What am I doing wrong?
View 2 Replies
1991 Ranger, standard cab, 2wd, 2.3L engine, 5 speed
Transmission abruptly locked up in traffic, in 5th gear, brought the truck to a halt. Got it towed home, searched the forum for information on how to remove the transmission, and tackled the task today. I've done transmissions and clutches before - how hard can this be?
Well, I've gotten everything loose and am ready to brace the trans and remove the cross brace to gain access to the top bolts - I have seen them, but haven't tried to reach them. I've been hung for about the last 3 hours trying to get the two top side bolts - heads facing forward. I can feel them, have gotten a socket on them, but have NOT been able to get a wrench up to them to break them loose. Feels like there is a reinforcing flange or something right adjacent that prevents access. I've tried extensions, flex joints and box ends - I just can't seem to find the right combination.
2nd question - do I need to break the exhaust system loose before I allow the engine/transmission assembly to tilt downwards? Looks to me like it needs to be disconnected to allow the assembly to drop.
View 3 Replies
2000 Ranger 4R44e transmission.Hard shift from 2-3 gear and when i run about 35-40 mph and brake then acelerate it downshifts hard . Whats wrong with it?
View 14 Replies
Last night, on my way home, I suffered a catastrophic transmission failure in my 1991 2.3L 5 speed. Stepped on the clutch on an exit ramp from the freeway and was rewarded by a LOUD screech/grind, a stopped vehicle, and a transmission "locked" in 5th gear. The local HERO service pushed me out of traffic and I got towed home. Looks like a transmission transplant is in my immediate future. So - the question is, what year manual transmissions match up to a 1991 2.3L 4 cylinder, standard cab, 2WD? I need to start searching salvage yards.
View 3 Replies
Rebuild on the Mazda 5 speed transmission. My 1986 Ranger 2.3 Four cylinder has 280,000 miles and the clutch has never been replaced. It's not slipping but I'm having trouble getting it into gear from neutral. Was told that the release springs on the clutch plate have weakened causing the clutch to not release completely so figured it's time to replace it. It's done well the last 280,000 miles. The question I have : overhauling on one of these Mazda trans and how difficult was it. Any special tools required, etc...I see Autozone has a rebuild kit which appears to have bearings, seals and gaskets. Figured while it was out I would go ahead and rebuild it myself if I can. Rebuilt a few engines but never touched a trans.
View 4 Replies
I have a 99 Ranger, 3.0 xlt 2WD Automatic 5r55e(???) tranny (i know its the 5). I have the o/d off light flashing. It comes on when fluid gets to op temp. When on it shifts hard into 2nd and hard when it downshifts. No slipping. I have had the truck in the tranny shop for 3 weeks, owner said he re built valve body gasket (didnt work) tried 3 diff used tranny's (didn't work) or so he says. He said it needs to be rebuilt.
I have searched up and down for what it could be, there is so much out there, it only confused me more. If i have to rebuild i will, i think the tranny shop was pulling my leg (for more reasons than mentioned). I have a check engine light on nothing to do with tranny...there is a tranny code, he would not tell me but i will have it checked. Been told could be throttle position sensorl, speed sensor cracked case and a million other things. I have some mechanical abilities, (not too much w/ tranny's) but i can change a few simple sensors.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2007 Ranger XLT 2 Door Extracab and have a question about the seats in this vehicle. I'm a 6' 1" guy and have long legs. I've lamented how little travel the seats (esp the drivers seat) has. Since I have long legs I have the seat as far back as it apparently goes. On long trips, this becomes exceedingly uncomfortable. To top it off, I had a knee injury recently and the range of motion of my knees are less than normal, making it impossible to drive the truck with the limited ability to move the seat further back.. My question is: Is there a way to get the seat to go further back, without extensive engineering work? I've noticed this seems to be a Ford thing as my wife's 2012 Escape has the same problem.
View 1 Replies
I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
View 14 Replies
I searched a lot but did not find these symptoms on my 1992 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with A4LD transmission.
In overdrive, accelerate to down shift, and the transmission goes out of gear. Engine revs as if it was taken out of gear. Manually shift to Drive, and it works fine.
Overdrive works fine if at speed, and works to shift up, but if going slow enough to drop to lower gear, transmission goes out of gear. Manually in drive, works fine.
I may have other symptoms, but this was on the way home from work, and I just parked it. I checked fluid level, and it was fine, still in the cross-hatch area of the stick, light colored oil, no smell.
I will replace the modulator and replace the filter, and see what that will do. If the overdrive works at overdrive speed, I do not see how that could be an overdrive housing failure that I have seen in many posts. I am aware of keeping track of the pin for the modulator.
I also have read that band adjustment is not a good idea. If they are worn that bad, they should be replaced. I don't think it is a band or clutch problem. I think it is a shift control problem. We will start with the modulator and filter and take it from there.
View 4 Replies
When I'm slowing down, usually about 35 mph which i think is going from 3rd to 2nd gear, there is a noticeable rough down shift. Nothing horrible, but definitely much more noticeable than the shifting of all the other gears.
View 11 Replies
My 09 Sonata GLS has 50k miles on it. I bought it as a demo model with 9k on it (regret that) as new ... who knows how it was treated.
at 40k miles I noticed that in the morning when I was braking the car would feel like it was slipping out of gear momentarily and it was pretty rough. After a few minutes it would stop and I could continue on my way. The car is an automatic. I noticed it if I let the car decelerate enough that it dropped into first on its own, or if I used the brakes. I figured it must be due to the cold weather or something and was hoping it would clear up. This was only happening after 8 hours of non-use, overnight in the cold.
View 11 Replies
I've searched and can only find instructions/details on 6.4L and older Super Duty trucks. The process is the same to adjust the gear box for a 6.7L?
View 5 Replies
I recently bought a 1998 Honda Accord with 124,000 miles. The car had one owner for 14 years. The carfax indicates the owner maintained service on the vehicle, but didn't go into detail about the work that was done. (only that the started had be replaced) When I come to a complete stop the car downshifts rough into first gear. It almost feels like it slightly jumps forward. Is this a problem I need to address and if so what is the problem? I bought it from a trusted dealership who had their mechanics give it a check and said nothing was wrong with it.
View 6 Replies
