Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Transmission Slipping / Won't Pull In Reverse
Jan 17, 2017
I'm having trouble with my auto tranny again. it is a 4r44e and is in a 1999 3.0 flex 2wd extended cab. It will not pull in reverse, seems to be slipping bad, and it won't pull in forward gears unless you switch OD off. Then it seems to pull fine but still not in reverse. I haven't drove it very much to see on changing gears and such for fear of burning it up.
Fluid is still like new no codes showing just started out of the blue while my son was driving. All electrical is hooked up tight and no leaks fluid is little overfull but not much. I am going outside now to adjust intermediate band to spec. had trouble with overdrive that had everybody stumped if you remember and it was overdrive band adjustment so going that route first.
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I have a 1988 FORD Ranger with the 2.9 liter engine with the four speed automatic overdrive transmission. Several days ago the transmission went out. The truck will not pull in reverse, overdrive, drive, second or first. Usually most vehicles will usually have at least the reverse, A first or second when the drive and overdrive stops working altogether. What the problem could be?
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I have a 1996 Ford Ranger with 95k miles on it. Recently, my truck's automatic transmission has been slipping really bad. I'll be driving down my road and while going around a turn, the clutch feels like it randomly disengages, so when I press on the gas, it feels like I'm revving my truck in neutral, and then it will all of a sudden get back into gear, violently a lot of the time. However, once the truck is warmed up, the it runs perfectly and never slips. I've checked my oil multiple times and even changed the oil filter in the transmission. I am not sure if this has anything to do with it, but if I let my truck idle in park for a little bit, the RPMs will increase and if I shift in to reverse or drive while the RPMs are high, it'll do the same thing.
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I own a 1996 XL Ford Ranger 2wd 5 speed manual.
Last week I had it in for some service, which included bleeding the clutch lines and new fluid.
Since then when putting it in reverse the transmission grids. It is also very difficult to get into first gear - I really have to shove hard on the stick.
Better Description of symptoms: When the vehicle is moving it shifts fine. When I come to a stop, put it in neutral and let out on the clutch, it is then very difficult to get back into first gear. If I leave the clutch in, fter I come to a stop, I can shift around to all the gears no problem. It's only when I let out on the clutch, then push it back in to shift into first is the difficult part.
With reverse, I have to move ahead a bit, THEN I can shift to reverse without the grinding noise. I talked to my mechanic who check to ensure the fluid was NOT low (it wasn't) and no air bubble existed in the line. After that was checked, he said the clutch is worn and has to be replaced.
Well, then, why wasn't it doing this BEFORE I had him bleed the lines? It started the day I picked the truck up from service. He recommends the following to fix the problem...
- slave cylinder
- new line
- disc
- preasure
I am asking why this would happen after he bleed the lines? Is there another problem that can cause this?
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The reverse gear went out in my 97 ford ranger with automatic transmission. I took the transmission out and replaced the reverse band, cleaned everything up, put it all back together and back in and filled it up with fluid. Unfortunately, between me and my assistant, we did not secure the pump correctly and sheared the ears off it. It made a racket when we started it. It would go through all gears while jacked up but when on the ground it had no power. It would barely move. And there was no fluid coming through the pump when I cracked the lines. We pulled it all out again, took it to a shop, put on a new pump and had them reassemble it all and we put it back in, making sure to do it right this time. But I still don't have the power I had before all this. It's very sluggish in all gears. There was no racket on start up this time. And when I crack the lines there is intermittent fluid loss but not a constant flow. I really don't want to pull this thing again. What am I doing wrong?
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So here in Wisconsin for the last two weeks we have had nothing but ice. That being said, I have a '96 ranger 3.0L, automatic transmission, 4x4. 4 wheel is inoperable at the moment, that's a different story. Here's my question: with the ice, there has been a lot of tire spinning at high RPM's, the other day, I was again stuck on the ice and rocked back and forth had some pushers, thought we were getting somewhere but I went to shift gears and all of a sudden had nothing. No Reverse, Drive, OD, L, 2. Did I blow my tranny? There was no noise or grinding, but the OD light seems to blink. Is there something I can check or look at?
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Its a 2000 flex fuel 3.0... Its not the actual injector. I think its wiring or computer. No change in idle when I pull the injector plug. But I think I can feel the injector opening and closing. Compared to nearby injector diagnostic light flashes less brightly. but that's pretty hard to quantify
When I pull the plug on another injector it idles about the same but I can tell it surge up and down as I disconnect and reconnect it. Fuel injectors were backflushed and swapped same problem cylinder. Where do I go from here just take apart the loom and look for abraded wires? Its the number one cylinder, passenger front.
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On my '96 ranger with an automatic the reverse lights only come on between park and reverse, but once put into reverse they go out. The gear selector on the dash reads right, when the needle is on"P"it's in park, "R" drops into reverse and so forth. Do I need to adjust the shifter cable on the side of the transmission? If so how do I do this (I kinda need step by step with removal and adjusting, I've already tried and couldn't get it off the bracket). It's starting to drive me nuts, I've searched on the web for hours with no luck. I've even posted on other sites with zero answers.
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My clutch is weak and slips sometimes and I need to replace it. ,I have replaced the clutch disc in other trucks but never a Ranger.
1999 3.0, 5 speed stick, Extended cab....
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I have a 99 Ranger 3.0L automatic, ext cab, 2 wheel drive. Door sticker show code "T" which I looked up as the 4R44E. The trans seems to be slipping in 1st and 2nd. Thought it was "reared shudder", from a "limited slip" differential but mine is not limited slip. just the regular 8.8 with 373 gears.
Wanting to know what if any options I have for buying a new / rebuilt tranny? I've seen where depending upon the year and motor, Ranger can have 4r44e, 4r55e, 5r55e, etc.
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1991 Ranger 4.0L A4LD... Its a 4x4. ext cab
What else will bolt up to this 4.0L? Could i put a 4R44E/4R55E tranny? Is there a good stick that bolts up?
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1996 F250. I think its a Ford works great until yesterday. Put it in reverse had to rev it up to get it to move and when it did kind shook and sliped an does back up but doesn't like it....
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So my new/old 2004 has another issue. Parked at the grocery store tonight on a very slight incline backwards. Put the Ranger in park (automatic shift) and before I could fully engage the parking brake it began to roll back with a clunk, clunk, clunk as if popping out of gear.
Need less to say I moved to another spot that was more level. Just an hour before I parked the same way on a steeper incline and did not get this. Now I need to watch this carefully until resolved. How to remedy this issue.
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2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XLT xcab with a 4.0 engine.It will take off and drive in the freezing cold but when it warms up it will only go in reverse.Once in awhile it will go into drive.What seems to be the problem. I had also backed up over a railroad tie in an icy parking lot but still drove away.
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4400 miles on it. Over last few days the transmission started to slip. First gear engages fine, but the change to 2nd involves a rev....(with no acceleration) till it finally grabs.
Reverse into my garage up my slight incline of a drive does same. Slip rev....slip rev... No gear noises.
Tried to check fluid level...(that's what it sounded like to me) but sealed system.
Taking it in for warranty check/work.
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2000 ranger v6 automatic trans electronic 4wd shift on the dash. Plowing snow all of the sudden lost both forward and reverse never slipped or made any noise. Transmission fluid is fine to the level and clean. Put in drive nothing and reverse nothing put it back in park you can hear the park paul trying to click in. Towed it back to the shop thinking maybe the transfer case was junk. Decided to check the actuator on the transfer case no power going to it, go back to the switch no power there either check the fuses both are good and have power. The question i have is could a bad GEM module cause all this? ps the windshield wipers do work.
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Since last summer my truck keeps blowing fuse 26 and then I have no reverse lights. If I replace the fust its ok for a bit but blows again the same day sometime. The book says its the fuse for revers and overdrive. The overdrive button on the tree shifter stops working too but the truck does not seem to be revving any higher so I think the overdrive itself is fine. I can't find the short but its got to be shorting somewhere...
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Why my trucks engine is cutting out. idles fine and runs fine when on the road, it only stalls in park if i rev the engine, and it stalls immediately when i put it in reverse.
I took it to a shop and they scanned it and said it was a o2 sensor problem. replaced both o2 sensors(they were both bad) but no luck there, still having issues.
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1999 (built late 1998) Ranger 2.5 stick 2wd single cab. If I get much over 75 MPH the speedometer will reverse direction despite increasing speed. If I then let off the throttle completely, the speedo will jump right back up and indicate the correct speed. Continued operation without letting off the throttle to let the speedo recover will trip the ABS fault light, probably due to the erratic signal.
Disconnecting RABS module has no effect on symptoms. Speed sensor in the rear axle has been replaced already (by me) and the new unit ohm'd out good. Wiring between GEM and sensor checks out as well, good continuity (< 1 ohm) and no shorts to chassis ground. I wish I had an o'scope to take a look at the waveform, but I don't at the moment. It is on my future tool purchase list.
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I've got a 2008 Ranger FX4, 4.0L with manual transmission. Recently I noticed that I have no reverse lights. I have to parallel park on busy streets from time to time, so this is a safety issue that I need to fix.
I checked the bulbs, both seem fine - would be unlikely that both bulbs would die simultaneously. I checked the fuse. Again unlikely unless the reverse lights were on their own independent circuit. 10A fuse looks fine too.
Last thing I can think of is a switch. I checked my Haynes Manual, there is no mention of it, which is odd, usually my manual is quite good. Where the switch is located? Any experience with swapping this out?
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