Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Tonneau Covers Modification?
Nov 22, 2011
I was just offered a free tonneau cover today - it's a hard cover that's "split" (it opens in sections) and came off a Ranger (it's either an '03 or an '05 - I can't remember) - the guy who's giving it to me took it off his truck when he had a camper shell put on. He claims it ran him about $900 at the time he had it put on - I think he got it from a Ford dealership...
Anyway, I'd like some input from folks who have these covers on their trucks. Trying to get some pro's and con's from people... Is weight an issue? I hear this thing is pretty heavy, but I haven't seen it yet so I haven't gauged for myself the weight. How much would it affect gas mileage? Are these things effective at all in reducing wind drag or is that another myth? How accessible is the bed with one of these covers on? I understand that the sections can be removed, if needed...
The bed rails on my truck are already pretty tore up from the aluminum bed rail caps that are on there now (it used to be a service truck) so, I'm not really concerned about that... I've also got a drop-in bed liner that, I think, was installed by whatever dealership in Montana this truck was originally purchased at... Anything else I should know about these covers?
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My '98 B3000 has an oil leak. There is some oil up high on bell housing. So a buddy and I thought it might be the oil pressure sending unit. I replaced it. And still seems to be leaking.
Maybe valve covers? I was thinking rear main until we saw it on the bell housing. Valve covers don't seem to be leaking on the outside. Do they leak worse on the inside of the V?
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Is there a MPG gain with synthetic oil or adding a tonneau cover?
I'm planning on doing the tonneau but curious if any noticeable differences with either.
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I have a 2011 6.7L F-250 with the stock 17" rims and need new tires. Would 285/75/17's will fit without modification or rubbing?
The stock tires were 265/70/17 and were too small. I have 285/65/18's on there now without rubbing, but it is close. Going back to the 17" rim with a taller tire makes me a little nervous, as I can't check them before purchasing.
I do not want to have any rubbing or have to do any modifications (lift, spacers, etc...). I would like to keep the vehicle stock.
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I'm also interested in converting to LEDs for my headlights, if there's an easy way to do it. I burn through a set of headlamps in about a year or less, partly because I run the headlights as running lights all the time, day and night.
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Does 12 volt power outlet can be modified to be always on when the car is parked up?
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I just recently got a 2011 gs350. I've heard there is a way to modify it to a f type.
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How to set it up where only the back dome lights turn on when a door is opened? I would like to keep the front ones off and only turn them on by pushing on them. I have a 2013 base prius.
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I just changed my Oil, added a FRAM filter and bought some good Quakerstate High Mileage and my truck runs good. However, I noticed that my Check Oil light is constantly on. I also recently changed my Oil Sender, and I wonder if that has got something to do with it.
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I have a 1994 2.3l 4cylinder xlt ford ranger regular cab Manuel transmission. My transmission is going out. I found an 04 ford ranger Manuel transmission off a v6 will this be compatible? And if not what years will be?
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I have a 1994 ford ranger 4x4 that I just put on and 35's and when I get to 35 mph it shakes really bad. What the problem is. Have been told that I need a steering stabilizer.
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I need to change the AC relay. What is the location of the relay.
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I have a weird issue. When I'm running AC on my 2.3l ranger sometimes the idle wont go down but rather hold its current RPMs till i either turn the AC off or place the truck back in gear. What that could be?
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Opinions welcomed...thinking of taking a gamble on an '04 with 248k miles on it.....not sure what engine is in it.
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Hello. I never did this before but could you lock one hub in 2wd and leave the other unlocked. Also can you leave one hub locked while in 4wd? I was thinking if you have one hub locked would all the power would go to that wheel? Or will this do damage?
Thanks
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I fit explorer rear axle to my 2wd ranger. But now I have fromt x-member with front suspension and front drive axle from explorer. Can I fit all this stuff to my ranger?
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I recently purchased a 1997 Ford Ranger with a blown 4.0 with a 5 speed , I have a 5.0 with a Carb and 5 speed out of a 80s mustang . Is it possible to use this in the 97 Ranger , I understand I need a different fuel pump but motor mount wise I was hoping it would fit.
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So here is what I got. Code 157 maf sensor below minimum voltage. Here is what the truck does. When the MAF is plugged in and I step on it, the truck surges and when it drops below 1k rpm it dies but I can start it back up. If I hold the throttle at 1k it stays alive. When I drive with the MAF unplugged it runs better no surging but it still dies. Here is what I have done. Reset codes no change, put new MAF in no change. I have traced all 4 MAF wires checked continuity from inside of plug to inside of plug.
All wires checked out good. No cuts breaks or anything. I have checked my battery, starter, and alternator ad all check out fine. I read that someone said if the corresponding transistor in the PCM took a dumb then it would cause not enough voltage to get to the plug because the transistor would dump the voltage from the battery leading to the MAF. I thought about running a direct power source from the battery to the voltage side of the MAF with a switch in the truck to just see if that would solve the issue but I don't know if that is possible or smart.
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Ok first I am not super-mechanically inclined but i'm pretty smart and a fast learner, lol. That said I have a 1999 Ford Ranger and two nights ago first one blinker stopped working and then an hour later the other one stopped. What I mean by "stopped" is they weren't turning on at all.
Ok so, the flasher lights are all working when turned on. I went to the auto parts store and they said I needed a new flasher. I bought it but they weren't sure which one to replace. Well there were only 3 that size in the box under the hood so I used the process of illumination. Except the new one didn't exactly fit the first one so i tried the two others. Well when I think I had it in the right one.
The Blinkers would only flash once and then that was it. The guy at the store said the flasher may be faulty but he did not have another one so he gave me my money back. I noticed on the way home that the blinkers would still flash once even with the old flasher in place. The 4 way flashers still work normally so all bulbs are working.
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I have a 95 ranger with an overdrive auto. If you put your foot in it the converter wont lock up, you can get the tack past redline, but if you let off and the rpms drop below 2000, it locks up and holds until you apply the accelerator to much and it kicks it back out. Also the speedometer bounces and may not read right, abs light is sometimes on and it won't idle below 1000, I've checked for vacuum leaks already.
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My 94 ranger, 3.0 v6 began to sputter and jerk about a month ago. It does this when ever give more then lite throttle up until about 3000 rpm. I have replaced plugs, wires, coil and cleaned the air flow sensor. I feel like this has worked a little but the problem is still definitely present. When I hit 3k rpm if feels lie the truck begins to run correctly and almost like it had a power ban much like a dirtbike, but again it's just the truck running correct.. And above 3k rpm it runs great... and every so often the problem will completely disappear for 5 minutes or so, then come right back.
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