Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Starting From A Stop In 1st - Truck Bogs Down When Letting Out The Clutch
Sep 10, 2012
Started up my truck today, accel pedal didn't want to move, after giving it some more force it eventually became "unstuck". Now, the real issue I'm having is from a dead stop, in 1st gear, as I'm letting out the clutch the truck boggs down as if I'm not trying to accelerate. I'm giving it as much as I normally would as I'm letting out the clutch but the motor will either die or take a couple seconds before it starts to go. Once I'm moving I don't notice any problems clutching through gears. The check engine light IS on now, however I don't have any diagnostic gear or really any tools for that matter. 1998 2.4L 5-speed...
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 1999 ford ranger and I believe my Clutch safety starting switch is going out. Some times I push my clutch in and truck starts fine other times it will not turn over so I stomp clutch and then it starts. My question is, is there any way to bypass this switch?
View 5 Replies
Installed a new clutch and slave today. Kept the same master cylinder.
The problem I am having is that the clutch pedal will not go to the floor, and therefore the truck won't start. The slave is moving back and forth roughly 3/8 inch, maybe more. I am pretty confident that there is no air in the system.
If I loosen the pressure plate a little, the clutch will go to the floor. But tighten it back up, and it again only goes down about 75%. This is a late '95 so it has the self adjusting clutch. I did get the correct kit for it, as well as slave. It's like the self adjusting part is too far adjusted and won't let my slave travel as far as needed.
In troubleshooting, I did notice that I failed to get the dowels in the flywheel aligned in the pressure plate. I am old school and not used to dowels in the flywheel! The dowels are not hitting anything and are not preventing the pressure plate from seating on the flywheel. But it is something I'm going to fix if I have to pull the trans again.
For reference, I replaced the clutch because the slave cylinder was hanging up and preventing the clutch from getting fully released. Aka clutch slipping.
View 6 Replies
I replaced the clutch, slave, flywheel and pilot bearing. Now it sounds like gravel bouncing around under the truck.
Everything works beautifully, but there is horrible noise especially at idle. If push the clutch it will quiet a little. If I change the rpm it will get worse then quiet out then get loud again, there is a sweet spot.
What the heck did I do wrong. It's a horrible gravelly grinding sound.
View 7 Replies
I have a 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab with 180,000 miles, 4.0ltr 6cyl and it is in relatively good condition. When I bought the truck the check engine light was on. The previous owner said that it was something in the gas tank that has gone bad but it was not a big deal and the truck could be driven with no problems.
My mechanics have tried several times to read the error code but their diagnostic tool won't tell them what is wrong.
I have noticed over the past few days that when I am slowing down and riding the clutch (I was making a u-turn this morning) that the truck will shut off. It starts right back up but it keeps happening.
I have been considering replacing the IAC, new spark plugs, rotor and wires and fuel filter but I am not 100% this will fix my problem. I am NOT a mechanic but know plenty of them so it will be a situation where I buy the parts and a buddy puts them in.
View 9 Replies
2000 Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0L Auto
So a couple months ago I had a transmission problem. It shifts high and hard all times and after the "od" light gets going (after it gets warm), the transmission slips (like riding clutch) when starting from a stop. If I went from drive to 1st gear with the selector and back, it cleared the slipping problem for a bit. I did an oil/filter change and about 50 miles later the truck is running fine, no issues. One day I hopped in it to go to work and it was like nothing ever happened. Fast forward 1,500 miles later. I start to notice the transmission is subtly shifting weird, like a small jerk when shifting. It gets worse over 50 miles and now I am back to the above problem. Is there a way this could be a sensor or solenoid problem? I never heard of a transmission correcting an issue then starting at it again so much later.
I don't like fixing or working on an issue unless I am at least 95% sure what the problem is. I also don't have $2k to plop down on a repair at the moment. Would it be worth it to take this to a dealership and see what trouble codes I am getting? I would try a transmission shop but it's not guaranteed they will have the test equipment to check a ford transmission. Also a friend said that AutoZone and other stores can't check transmission codes. So what's the best option here?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2001 F-150 4.2L 2WD LS with 102k miles. At 95k miles, the clutch slave cylinder started leaking fluid. So, I had my local garage replace it. And while they were at it, put in a new clutch. That is when the trouble started.
I cannot let the clutch out like I used too. When letting out the clutch from a dead stop,the rear end now shakes, shutters, and if it is really bad, the rear end starts bouncing. To minimize the shakes, I have to keep the engine below 1000rpm until the clutch/1<sup>st</sup> gear is fully engage. It is worst when there is a load on the truck like going uphill, or a sharp turn for a dead stop. After the truck gets rolling, I don’t notice the problem when shifting gears.
I have been babying it for 7k miles and it has not improved. What is wrong? Did I get a bad clutch job?
View 8 Replies
I have an '89 Ranger, Extended Cab, 2x4, 2.3l, Manual transmission with 255,000 on the odometer. I've owned it since 1990 and as far as I can remember it has either never had a clutch or only had one. I realize it's past due.
Everything has been fine up until this morning. 10 minutes after leaving the driveway this morning going a steady 55mph, no incline, it sounded almost as if I hit a deer. The truck jerked real hard, I put it back into 5th, and limped to my destination. Keep in mind for the next 30 or so miles there was absolutely no clutch slippage.
Here's the symptoms: No slippage, won't go into gears (I have to match rev's and shift without clutch, I drive a big rig and do this daily), when I do get it in 1st at a stop sign it wants to lurch with clutch all the way pushed down, I still have a great clutch pedal, and the most interesting thing to me is it sounds like something is being tossed around in my bell housing.
I'm almost 100% certain it's the clutch, however, I just wanted to come on here and report I have no slippage and it sounds like something being tossed around in the bell housing area. Is it possible a piece of the clutch could have "broke" off and that was what that huge jerk at 55 mph was? Approx. how much would a shop charge to put a clutch in on this model? I live in a rural area where prices are not inflated.
View 9 Replies
My truck is pulsating when I am coming to a stop, a lot of you all said replace the rotors to which i did and new brakes, shocks. Today I went to get my truck all four wheel alignment done to my truck.. something is not right..
I got my driver tire facing straight, look at the left.. I went back to the alignment shop showed them that, they put it back up there, they called me over and pointed out the machine they use say, it is aligned.. So what is the problem you figure?
To update all I've done to the truck in regards to front end..
rack and pinion
upper control arm
upper lower ball joints
stabilizer inks
rotors (front)
brakes
shocks
When I straighten my left wheel, the right does not look right..
View 4 Replies
1987 Ranger and the computer will not communicate. I'm trying to check for codes because of a rough idle and stumble when starting out from a stop. Check engine works but won't flash when using a jumper across the data link. Used a OTC scanner but it only times out and comes up "no data". Where to go from here?
View 7 Replies
I'm looking for a part number for the rubber stop that mounts behind the clutch pedal on the firewall for a 2001 Ford Ranger 4cyl 2.3L 5spd Manual. Can't seem to find it on the web. It looks like it snaps/presses into a mounting hole behind the pedal. The original one decided to disintegrate and now I get a nice knocking noise when ever the pedal is depressed.
View 7 Replies
OK- the truck is a early '96 B4000 4.0, 5 speed 4x4. The key could be pulled from the ignition switch in the "run" position (worn key/lock cyl.) I got in the habit of not using the key (never turned the switch to "lock", just "off"). No issues, been driving the truck all over with no key for some time. Now I can't find the key and alarm fob. No worries, I'll just replace the ignition lock/cyl. Done.
Now the alarm is triggered, and I can't stop it. Truck won't crank, either. I assume the no crank condition is the result of the anti-theft being active. I assumed that because I had been driving around with no key, that I did not have a "chipped" key, assuming the truck wouldn't run unless the "chipped" key was in the switch. Since it ran fine, the assumption was no chip. Now I'm not so sure.
What I would like to do is disable the anti-theft/alarm system totally. Pulling the fuse is no good b/c that kills the fuel supply. Is this possible, or do I scrap the truck? I've found 2 sources on the web that indicate that grounding the the green/purple wire that goes into the drivers door will disable the system.
View 1 Replies
first off my truck is 2001 ford ranger 4x4 with an auto. transmission. when I'm driving around in 2wd, everything is fine...
when my 4wd high is on, and I'm starting from a deadstop my truck makes a weird "clunking" noise in the front end. If I'm stuck in mud or snow, and I give gas it keeps "clunking". where the problem comes from?
View 3 Replies
This has happened 3 times.
1st) pulled quickly over to side of road, shut off truck. It would not start then. Towed it to service station and it started the next morning (with no repair made). I wonder if tow ride dislodged the the blockage in fuel line(?). Always sounds like it's going to turn over, but like not getting fuel.
2nd) Went to leave work, truck wouldn't start. Towed to my mechanic and he replaced fuel pump. Thought it was fixed because it ran fine until just the other day.
3rd) Slowed down to complete stop in heavy traffic and it stalled. Would not restart. Again sounded like it was going to start but didn't seem to be getting fuel. Good samaratins pushed me off road. Had it towed to mechanic. Started the next morning without any repair or service. It's like the tow ride and bumps getting it off the tow truck dislodges what ever is blocking the fuel line.
My mechanic replaced the fuel pump, but I don't think her replaced the fuel filter.
View 6 Replies
1986 Ranger 2.3 inline 4
I just recently bought an 86 Ranger from a friend. It had recently stopped working and had no desire to fix it. So here I am. The truck will sit in park and rev all day long, once its in drive it idols fine and moves its self down the street. The problem occurs when I apply throttle. It begins to bog down and I cannot get past 20mph. I have replaced the fuel regulator and also I took the tank down and replaced the fuel pump. The fuel filter is two months old, and the throttle response sensor is two weeks old.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2005 ranger, 3.0 and automatic trans
The truck runs fine until it is warm... runs great down highway... stopping at a light or stop sign is horrible, It will act like the (old term ) carb is flooding out.
I put it on a meter It said tps so I replaced it. then it said number 4 cyl no power so I put new plugs in.... I do not hear any vacuum leaks, and It runs like a top when cold.
View 14 Replies
I have a 1985 ranger 2.3l efi and it bogs and dies while while driving, it can sit and idle all day long but when you go to drive it, it works great for 3-4 minutes then out of nowhere starts bogging sometimes I can keep it going a little longer but in the end the truck always dies . I know I'm loosing fuel pressure , I hooked a gauge up to it and drive it down the road when the truck died it showed 10 psi , from here I'm lost . It has a new fuel pump in the tank and I can hear the other one running when I click the key on , Also two new fuel filters .
View 3 Replies
Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
View 2 Replies
If I hop in my truck right now (1994 3.0 ford ranger 5 speed) as soon as i accelerate half pedal or more it'll bog down really bad. Usually in second gear it does it the most and ill shift to third gear and it still jerks and has trouble accelerating. If I let the car sit for 10 minutes and then go drive it it'll jerk and bog down a little bit but no where near as much. usually only does it for the first couple minutes of driving then goes back to normal. I also noticed that my temperature gauge is always right before NORMAL. Also I'll have to give it a little more gas right before i go to drive or it'll want to stall but as soon as i get into driving it, it acts perfectly fine.
View 7 Replies
I have an 87 ranger, 2.3 4cyl. 2wd 5 speed. When I start up the truck after it sits for a few hours it will idle fine but then it starts to bog down and wants to stall but after about 5 mins its fine and runs like a champ. I don't know if its a sensor or what.
View 2 Replies
I have an 03 Ranger 4.0 4x4 5 speed. It has no power, can't give throttle or it bogs real bad. Baro shows 18in vac with KOEO. When running it has 15in vac. Replaced MAF, fuel pump, and fuel filter.
View 4 Replies
