Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Squealing Noise When Pressing Gas Pedal Heavily
Mar 12, 2014
Just recently when pressing gas pedal heavily, my truck makes a squealing noise. What that is?
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Mar 12, 2014
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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Poor Brakes At Low Speed And Sucking Noise From Pedal To Booster Connection
Odd thing on the 97' Ranger that showed up today. I was backing out of the spot at the local Shell station, (on an incline) and the pedal went to the floor. Never happened before. I pumped the brakes a few times, and they came back. On down the street, slowing for the stop sign, pedal went to the floor again.
Not throwing codes, fluid levels are good, only seems to happen at lower speeds/idle. Sometimes pumping brings the brakes back, sometimes they come back all of a sudden.
I can hear a "sucking" kind of noise coming from where the pedal connects to the booster, up under the dash. I looked at it, and nothing *appears* to be broken.
It almost feels like the pads are against the discs, and the pistons/calipers have to reach for them before the brakes apply. (If that makes any sense)
There should be about 50% of life left on the pads, but i haven't pulled the fronts wheels yet to look.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Hop In The Truck And Belt Starts Squealing - Harmonic Balancer Came Apart
Couple days ago, hop in the truck to go to work and belt starts squealing. Belt was old and it had been raining, so I figured it was a little wet. Turned on the defrost, and squeal gets worse. I then smell a burning. Opened the hood and saw the belt dragging on the a/c pulley, so I figure the compressor clutch is shot.
Looked at it today. I was wrong. Took off the belt and the a/c pulley spins fine. I can turn it's front hub by hand as well. I look around and see the crankshaft pulley isn't lined up. It looks like the outer pulley portion separated from the rubber. This caused the belt the jump and ride on the rubber part, cutting grooves in it.
Here's some pics:
From top driver's side:
From top passenger's side:
From bottom passenger's side:
Passat (B6) :: Persistent White Noise That Stops When Pressing The Brake Pedal
First off, I would like to say that I really like how the engine rolls in my 06 Passat 2.0T. Suspension is great and the brake works well...so far. What worries me now is the persistent white noise I get in the cabin when the engine is on, driving or idling, EXCEPT when applying brake.
I took it to the dealer 2 times for this reason. The first time, the rep swore that he could not hear the sound and made a crazy person out of me. The tech wrote in the report that there is no problem. The rep explained that it is the sould of air circulating back (what air?).
So, I took it to an independent mechanic, the one I have been taking my other cars to (Nissan, Infinity, BMW) for the past 5 years or so. He readily heard the sound and identified it as vacuum leak.
I took the car back to the dealer and asked them to check, and it came back to me that the booster performs as per design. It is true that I haven't experienced any loss of brake power yet.
Meanwhile, the sound is getting stronger (and I don't think I am imagining it all, either). Now I have to turn on the radio or CD to muffle the noise.
(Now that my venting and ranting is done...)
Also, if it really is a vacuum leak, does it generate a code? So far, I have not seen any check engine light or check brake light and matchign description appear on the dashboard information console.
Prius (Gen 3) :: Honking Noise When Pressing / Releasing Brake Pedal And Squeak When Backing Up
I had 2 brake related issues. First was a honking noise when pressing/releasing the brake pedal (covered by T-SB-0363-10, attached below). Second was rear brake squeaks, particularly when backing up (T-SB-0102-11, attached below). I had the squeak issue repaired under a previous TSB a few years ago, but the noise came back after a while, and the updated TSB includes replacing the pads and other parts.
View 8 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Clutch Pedal Went Almost To The Floor Before Disengaging
1997 Ford Ranger w/manual 5 speed tranny
A few weeks back my clutch pedal seemed a bit softer than usual one day. Still it worked fine... no problems shifting. Today after a short ride it went almost to the floor before disengaging. Now I cannot get it in gear without grinding.
So cold out I'm not sure I want to tackle this right now, what to look for and where?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1996 - Clutch Pedal Locks When Hot
I've had my truck a few years now but for 2 it was basically parked. When I started trying to use it again I am having issues with the clutch now. When it is cold everything is fine, but on hot days or after I have been driving for a while It will lock the pedal up and will not let me dis-engage the clutch at all. Sometimes when it does eventually let the pedal down it will go to the floor and stay there for a few seconds until it slaps back up and engages slamming the truck into gear.
I have yet to try much. I'm not good at working on anything other than stereos in cars but I am willing to try. My thought is some water got into the system and is boiling in the lines but I am not sure. Places to start? I really need my truck going and the couple places I've taken it dont even want to try it seems like.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - Clutch Pedal Went To The Floor
My buddy called and said his clutch pedal went to the floor on his 04 4.0 ranger. Said no fluid leaks or anything, so I suspect the slave cylinder went. He said the slave is on the inside of the trans and you gotta pull the trans to do the slave, so might as well do the clutch too. How hard is it to replace both these on this truck? I've done it on a 94 cummins, so the trans should be a lot lighter. just wondering how bad of a job it is to do?
View 2 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1993 - Cruise Will Not Disengage With Brake Pedal
1993 Ranger XLT 4.0 AT. Initially replaced ECM for other problems and then noticed Cruise w/n disengage when brake depressed unless pedal is pushed several times and with more pressure. Put in another ECM and have same problem. Have replaced the brake switch and lights come on as they should. When pedal is pushed the vacuum dump valve on the pedal will dump the vacuum to the servo but when you release the brake pedal the cruise control kicks back in and speeds truck back to set speed.
So this tells me that the dump valve is only a fail-safe feature for when pedal is depressed and does not actually deactivate the servo. Everything else with the cruise works fine: On/Off switch, Set/Accelerate, Resume, Coast. How to proceed next? Like where to find speed control module and how to test it? How to check servo to see if it is getting or dropping voltage that will electrically disengage it, etc? Don't want just throw parts at it. The new ECU's that I used came from ECU Exchange in Florida and there still remains the possibility that they are still the problem.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2008 - Brake Pedal Spongy At 63 K Miles?
I have a 2008 Ranger Sport 4x4. I noticed yesterday that when I stepped on the brake pedal it felt like nothing was there until I step a little harder then it was like full brake application. The truck only has 63000 on it. Then every once in awhile it would be normal ie very light brake application and slows like it should. Then back to same issue... Any thoughts about this??
View 8 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Bogs Down Bad As Soon As Accelerate Half Pedal
If I hop in my truck right now (1994 3.0 ford ranger 5 speed) as soon as i accelerate half pedal or more it'll bog down really bad. Usually in second gear it does it the most and ill shift to third gear and it still jerks and has trouble accelerating. If I let the car sit for 10 minutes and then go drive it it'll jerk and bog down a little bit but no where near as much. usually only does it for the first couple minutes of driving then goes back to normal. I also noticed that my temperature gauge is always right before NORMAL. Also I'll have to give it a little more gas right before i go to drive or it'll want to stall but as soon as i get into driving it, it acts perfectly fine.
View 7 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 - Clutch Pedal Hard And Could Not Depress It
This is unusual. After driving into town for new tires, the clutch pedal was hard and I could not depress it after the tire tech parked the truck. It did finally depress with a pop, though the pedal functioned there after the clutch did not function properly.
At times it seemed to be ok at other times it seemed weak. I stopped by Autozone and checked the fluid, seemed low and I added some. Continued home not completely confident that I would make it. Had to make one stop along the way.
Once again the clutch pedal was stuck at the top and would not depress. I finally slid the safety switch up the clutch shaft to start the truck, when the engine started the pedal depressed. I was able to continue home but the clutch is not functioning properly.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Clutch Pedal Will Not Go To The Floor And Therefore Truck Won't Start
Installed a new clutch and slave today. Kept the same master cylinder.
The problem I am having is that the clutch pedal will not go to the floor, and therefore the truck won't start. The slave is moving back and forth roughly 3/8 inch, maybe more. I am pretty confident that there is no air in the system.
If I loosen the pressure plate a little, the clutch will go to the floor. But tighten it back up, and it again only goes down about 75%. This is a late '95 so it has the self adjusting clutch. I did get the correct kit for it, as well as slave. It's like the self adjusting part is too far adjusted and won't let my slave travel as far as needed.
In troubleshooting, I did notice that I failed to get the dowels in the flywheel aligned in the pressure plate. I am old school and not used to dowels in the flywheel! The dowels are not hitting anything and are not preventing the pressure plate from seating on the flywheel. But it is something I'm going to fix if I have to pull the trans again.
For reference, I replaced the clutch because the slave cylinder was hanging up and preventing the clutch from getting fully released. Aka clutch slipping.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Brake Pedal Pulsates And Feels Like Something Is Grinding
I have a 2010 Ford ranger sport 4x4, manual, and when backing up at a decent speed, then press the brake to slow up then depress the clutch, the brake pedal pulsates and it feels like something is grinding. It has happened in first once, but I can make it happen in reverse anytime...
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Brake Pedal Goes To Floor - ABS Sensor?
acts like abs sensors could be bad. but the brake pedal goes almost to the floor, after it does it's pulsating. But the abs light does not come on. I already changed brake booster, no change!
View 5 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1984 - Brake Pedal Squeaks And Won't Return
So, a few day i bought an 84 Ranger and even since have not been able to figure out what the hell is wrong with the brakes. I know it's not the brake booster for starters. Because, i went to Auto Zone and picked up a new one and when i took the old one off (before i had put the new one on as well) i tried to see if the brake pedal would now move freely and it won't. It is still very stiff and squeaks when you push it down. i then to get it to return have to pull it up with my foot... What it might be? the WD-40 failed here as well.
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - Turn Over But Won't Start Till Gas Pedal Pressed?
This has happened 4 times now over 2 weeks. The engine will turn over but will not start till I press the gas pedal. I have to keep the engine running for a few seconds by hold the gas pedal steady.After it's running you can cut the engine off and it will start right back up.
View 9 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 - Master Cylinder Rod Falling Off Of Clutch Pedal
I have a 88 ranger supercab 2.9l 4x4 with the fm146 trans and recently I have had a problem with my clutch master cylinder rod falling off my clutch pedal. I bought the new bushing and put it on and it was fine until yesterday. It wants to keep coming off. Is there a clip of some sort to hold it on or no. I looked at a few at the salvage yard and they did not have a clip just the bushing. So what do I do?
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Brake Light Quit Working / No Power To Switch At Pedal
What is the likely culprit? No other electrical issues, brake light quit working when brake is depressed, all other lights work including blinkers/running/head. Was going to break out a wiring diagram....
View 7 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 - Clutch Pedal Rubber Stop Part Number?
I'm looking for a part number for the rubber stop that mounts behind the clutch pedal on the firewall for a 2001 Ford Ranger 4cyl 2.3L 5spd Manual. Can't seem to find it on the web. It looks like it snaps/presses into a mounting hole behind the pedal. The original one decided to disintegrate and now I get a nice knocking noise when ever the pedal is depressed.
View 7 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - Clicking / Vibration In Gas Pedal When Start To Accelerate Going Uphill
I have a 98 ranger, 4x4, 5spd 3.0 with 88k miles.
While I am driving it, everything is great, but when i start to accelerate, or torque the engine (going up a hill), I get this clicking/vibration in my gas pedal. its extremely noticeable, by feeling and ear.
Its most common around 2k to 2.5k RPM. There is a lot of play in the throttle cable, about an 1" or so give untill you feel pressure. What I need to replace or tighten?