Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Squeaking Sound That Varied With The Throttle
Mar 6, 2012
I have a 2002 Ranger 4.0 4x4 Off-road. Over the weekend I started hearing a squeaking sound that varied with the throttle, so I guessed the u-joints needed work. I took it in (no garage or tools available atm), and the garage called me later in the day saying my driveshaft was unrepairable, that I needed a new one. I told them to hold off.
Now, a little research found me some sites claiming that Ford did indeed make some disposable driveshafts, with pinned u-joints, but in the F-series, not the Ranger.
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I have a weird issue. When I'm running AC on my 2.3l ranger sometimes the idle wont go down but rather hold its current RPMs till i either turn the AC off or place the truck back in gear. What that could be?
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I have a ranger as said in title. No a/c. I noticed my belt was cracked very badly so I bought a new one. Dayco made for Ford and Mazda 3.0L V6. Looked the same length as the old one so I put it on and all was good. Then about 2 days later it started squeaking very loudly, not all the time, just 1500 rpm and higher. The hotter the motor got (not overheating just to running temp) the higher rpm it took for it to squeak. I put a stethoscope on all the pulleys/pumps and alt. It sounded the strongest on the idler.
So I replaced the idler and bearing (which the bearing was bad, but not the source of sound) it wasn't that. So I thought I'd give the belt a couple days, maybe it was too tight causing a bearing to get too tight and squeak. And the more I drove it the louder it got with less rpm needed to make it squeak. So I tried belt dressing, and still no fix. So today I put the old belt back on to see if that was the issue. Sure enough, it started up and squeaked just the same, but I tried the belt dressing on the old belt and it went silent, even at 3000 rpm. So I assume from this the new belt was a smidge too big. Right?
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I have a 99 ranger with 170000 miles and the front end recently started squeaking. its coming from the driver side but I can't pinpoint it.
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So i have a 1998 4.0 ohv ranger and have been fighting belt squeak shortly after i got it. I've replaced the belt twice and the tensioner twice when i put a GATES belt on it stopped for like month. But its still squeaking. If i put a wrench on the tensioner and turn it the squeak stops. So i need to find a way to tighten the tensioner could i somehow jam it, our hook up a turn buckle bolt to manually tighten it, or use a different ford tensioner. I really need to do something cause this squeak is just down right annoying.
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4x4 1999 Ranger ... They are a squeaking and driving me crazy. How hard are they to do, do they need a press or can they be done at home?
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My '02 Ranger has had tire wear for a while now, and its on the inside of both front tires. I was thinking it was either toe or camber, or maybe both. I havent been able to get an alignment recently. If its the camber, should I get the camber kit from Ford?
As for the squeaking, it first happened last summer, and I sprayed WD-40 on the upper control arm bushing and it went away until last week (obvoiusly temporary). Now its back. Also happens while turning the front wheels.
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1986 Ranger 2.3 inline 4
I just recently bought an 86 Ranger from a friend. It had recently stopped working and had no desire to fix it. So here I am. The truck will sit in park and rev all day long, once its in drive it idols fine and moves its self down the street. The problem occurs when I apply throttle. It begins to bog down and I cannot get past 20mph. I have replaced the fuel regulator and also I took the tank down and replaced the fuel pump. The fuel filter is two months old, and the throttle response sensor is two weeks old.
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I have had my 1998 Mazda B2500 truck since 2000 and this problem comes and goes (it's mostly been gone lately). Usually when it is cold outside. At slow speeds it creaks and squeaks - kinda embarrassing - if I am sitting still it squeaks when I turn the steering wheel. Once the speed picks up you can't hear it. I have noticed this in other fords about the same year.
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2002 Ranger XLT 4WD 4.0.. I was passing another car at about 55 when they also started speeding up (go figure) so I floored it and got on around them but before I lifted I felt it miss, the CEL began flashing so I slowed to the speed limit and went on to work. The light flashed for about a mile then went out. So on the way home I floored it again close to home and the CEL came on again. Got home and put the code reader on it and all it had was a random misfire so I have cleared it. The truck has new plugs, wires, etc for a complete tune-up. I don't usually run at full throttle so don't know if that would be normal for the Ranger, the Ranger was my wife's truck for 12 years and now is my DD. Need to clear this up? Thought of changing the fuel filter in that is still the original one.
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My ranger is an 89 but it's got a 91 motor in it, 2.9 V6. When I accelerate it hesitates before actually accelerating which makes me think the TPS is bad. Probed and tested and I got .85V throttle closed and 4.65 at wide open. Specs call for .8V - 4.5V
I'm not sure if there's an allowance of fluctuation, but is that high enough to point out a bad TPS? If it's not the TPS, is the ignition timing off or what else could it be?
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4.0. I'm having what feels Like a Miss on Light throttle/cruise. Once warmed up it's fine. Idle is fine too. There is No CEL/Codes.
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I'm hearing a sort of faint rotating squeaking noise coming from the front of the engine; I can only assume that it's something with the belts. Nothing too pronounce cause I just notice it yesterday, anyway I was hoping I get another take on what this might be before I take it to the mechanic tomorrow.
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I have a different issue than the typical heat on max ac. Mine is actually cold, it just sends all the air to the defrost vents when i apply the throttle. Comes back to the dash vents when I let off the gas.
I know that it's vacuum lines or solenoid, I just wanted to see if any guess on which specific line to check or any other info since I do NOT have a gauge to measure the vac lines for pressure.
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I have this 03 3.0 flex fuel that as of lately (2 months) has developed a whistle when throttle is pressed half way or more.... not sure what or where its coming from..
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I have a 2000 3.0l ranger. I have been battling an ignition problem. every time the engine is cold it runs terrible like only 3 or 4 cylinders running terrible. if u put a timing light on the wires the pulse comes and goes on random wires. and when it quits that it has a random sputter at idle and misses around 4k when u get into the throttle ...
I have replaced plugs twice and the coil with motorcraft parts and the wires are new autolites. I have also replaced the thermostat and fan clutch it was getting hot in the middle of this other issue ...
Every time I replace something it runs great for a few days then back to running terrible again. am I missing something else do I need to look at a computer or map or tps sensors, or something like that ...
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I purchased a new 2000 mazda b4000 2 weeks ago and the belt was squeaking and I knew I had to change the water pump so I replaced it and the squeaking didn't went away... I thought maybe my idler pulley bearing was worn out cause I could see it wobble back and fourth when the engine was running... Replaced it, still squeaking! Change my belt still squeaking! look further turns out my power steering pulley wobbles slightly. I'm thinking about trying a gator back belt and see if the squeaking goes away. Could it be dangerous to run the truck as it with a slight misalignment in the power steering pulley? or it'll be a must replacement asap?
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I've got a '94 Ranger with the 4.0L OHV and an Automatic trans. When I start, hot or cold, it has quick lifter knock for only a fraction of a second. This same knock comes back if I hold the throttle over 3K with NO LOAD on the engine. With any load, I cannot make it knock. With no load, though, it becomes very loud, especially with more RPMs. at idle and slightly above, there is a slight tick that can only be heard with the bonnet up, and then it is only slightly noticeable. I think that this tick is unrelated, but I figured I should share that information. For oil, I run Pennzoil high mileage 10W-30, changed 3000 miles religiously. Purolator filter, PL30001. I can understand the startup knock, but I can't see why it seems to produce the same knock at high RPMs under NO load.
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The Problem: When I start my Ranger it dies right away, I do this about 10 times or so (worse when it is wet or has rained) then I can finally keep it running, by hitting the gas. Once I get it running it will cut out while driving as well. The idle is normal and if fires properly, I just took it in to the shop (non-dealer) and they said it fires normal and has normal fuel pressure, and the their computer returned no error codes. Their sugestion was replace the throttle position sensor. Do you all think this part could be the cause and where is the this sensor and is it hard to replace?
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My 1995 ranger was running just fine then today overheats in five minutes and then runs at very high rpms, has 2yr old water pump new tstat don't think head is blown no water in oil no white smoke no water on the oil cap, I haven't check the plugs for water, stated raining no garage, when engine is cold starts runs fine,but when it gets hot its like a train...
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I have an 03 Ranger 4.0 4x4 5 speed. It has no power, can't give throttle or it bogs real bad. Baro shows 18in vac with KOEO. When running it has 15in vac. Replaced MAF, fuel pump, and fuel filter.
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