Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Speedometer Bouncing - ABS Light On W/ RABS DTC 9 - Fix?
Nov 15, 2015
Last night the speedometer started acting up, would fluctuate when the truck went over bumps and completely cut out on moderate right turns. Looked underneath as well as one can in the dark and couldn't find anything loose.
This morning I searched on here and the VSS came up numerous times as a common failure. $15 and about a half hour later I had it installed, and while I was under there I took a better look at the other connectors to double check harness connections for tightness and cleanliness. It all looked good, so I went ignition on... and the light came back. Tried clearing it by keeping the diag connector unplugged while switching ignition off, but no go. Took it for a quick spin around the parking lot, and the speedo was completely dead.
Hit up my factory ETM, found all the relevant connectors and set up a wiggle test of the VSS circuit with the DVOM on audible continuity check. Found one of the wires had chafed against the body right by the under-cab harness connector and worn almost completely through. Cut out the bad bit, soldered and heat-shrunk a patch in, and took it for a spin. Voila! No more ABS light and a working speedometer.
Also fixed the fuel gauge sending unit wire which was in the same connector grouping and chafed (but not yet broken) in a similar manner.
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so i changed the speedo cable and speed sensor in my 93 ranger, but still getting the speedometer bounce. what could be next? the speedo housing in the cluster? lubed the inner cable, made sure nothing is kinked or sharp bends. Put in a new vehicle speed sensor while i was at it just bcuz. cruise control does not hold a steady speed either but i think the 2 are not related. I'm leaning towards the cruise control servo as to why it does not hold a steady speed. Most of the time once i get to around sixty i'm basically driving by ear bcuz the speedo bounces from 60down to 55 and back up.
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'94 Ranger 4x2. Recent new brakes front and rear, installed by a garage who was also doing my clutch a few months ago. Not long after brake job, slightly detectable 'thump thump thumping' sound during braking. At first I thought possible stuck caliper/warped front rotor, but vibration was not in the steering wheel, and as sound grew increasingly louder, seems to be coming from right rear brakes.
ABS light appeared once, but after adding a small amount of brake fluid to master cylinder, has not reappeared. No other brake related idiot lights, and truck brakes quickly and straight. Pedal could possibly be firmer, however.
Took my rig back to the shop, since brakes were supposedly "guaranteed for six months". Out of business, no forwarding address or phone number!
So I decided to bleed the rear brakes. Haynes manual says bleed RABS valve first, then proceed to rear brake bleeders. Found RABS on rail frame, dust cap still on bleeder, (cap was very dusty and difficult to pop off) looks like shop never removed it or bled it! Had to remove its electrical connector to access the 7/8" bleeder nut with a box wrench.When I tried to bleed it, NOTHING came out. Neither air nor brake fluid. Moved on to rear brake bleeders. Normal. Bled 1/2 pint from each, as I topped off the master cylinder. I have not yet removed either drum to inspect.
Long story short, does the RABS valve on a '94 Ranger rear wheel only ABS need to be plugged in to be able to be bled? Do I need to have the ignition 'ON' while doing so? (I thought only '95 and up needed the Ford factory code reader to bleed four wheel only ABS valve?) And can the thing fail without setting the ABS warning light, and allow the rear brakes to still (noisily) work ?
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I have a 93 Ranger xlt and after checking wheel cylinders and calipers first I have found a leak that is coming from the brake line or maybe the RABS module. The leak is up along the inside of the frame and I can't get in there because of the gas tank. Has to change line or RABS in that area and am I correct in thinking the gas tank has to come out to do anything in there.
Also, in the manual it says to plug the line as soon as you remove it(at wheel cylinders etc) so the fluid does not leak out of the RABS because it can't be bled without an expensive piece of equipment. I am pretty sure it probably emptied due to the leak location.
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I have the infamous ABS light & speedo not working on my 2000 Ranger. I replaced the ABS Speed sensor on the rear diff as has been suggested on many posts, but it didn't solve the problem. Did I get a bad part or is there something else I should go after?
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I have a 2000 ford ranger 4.0L v6. My problem is the abs light stays on and the speedometer won't work till i hit about 35-40mph.
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Sold my mazda and got a nice 2000 2wd Ranger XLT with a 3.0L. Today the wife I and took it to town, 10 miles on the highway there, a couple in town and 10 back, didn't notice anything unusual. However I haven't this truck long so I'm not sure what is usual.
Parked it for a few hours and when went out to change the front turn signals to LED I noticed the ABS light was on when I drove it into the garage...
I checked fluid, connections and fuses, no change.I go ahead and swapped the bulbs while letting things simmer, I've had so many of these Fords sometimes the easy fix comes to me.
I backed it out and took it down the road, right away I noticed my speedometer wasn't working, so I let off the gas, when I re-applied the pedal I got nothing, like it was in neutral.
I downshifted to second and got her down and turned around as the O/D started flashing... (so glad because I would have hated walking back), then pulled her back in the garage to check transmission fluid and recheck fuses, including the ones I forgot earlier under the hood. I added a 1/4 qt of fluid then tried a road test again, this time there was a real long pause before it upshifted hard and the CEL came on.
I pulled the codes with my scangauge and got:
P0500
P2120
P0028
And decided I better look some things up and consult the gurus here before I do anymore damage tonight. I'm guessing that I'm looking at a tranny replacement possibly, but with the ABS light and speedometer failure I'm not 100% sure what is going on here...
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this morning my 02 decided to turn the ABS light on, and start bouncing the speedometer. plus, the OD light is flashing when stopped with foot on the brakes, but the trans is shifting fine.
nothing changed on the truck except almost 3 inches of rain fell last night.
will AE tell me if the VSS is going bad?
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I lost the windshield wipers, speedometer, dome light, door alarm. Check all the fuses I can find all are ok. Whats wrong.
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This morning my 02 decided to turn the ABS light on, and start bouncing the speedometer. plus, the OD light is flashing when stopped with foot on the brakes, but the trans is shifting fine. Nothing changed on the truck except almost 3 inches of rain fell last night. Will AE tell me if the VSS is going bad?
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I replaced the clutch, slave, flywheel and pilot bearing. Now it sounds like gravel bouncing around under the truck.
Everything works beautifully, but there is horrible noise especially at idle. If push the clutch it will quiet a little. If I change the rpm it will get worse then quiet out then get loud again, there is a sweet spot.
What the heck did I do wrong. It's a horrible gravelly grinding sound.
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I just brought a 1996 Explorer 4x4 V6 XLT from a friend thinking it was an easy fix by answers I found of the problem on the net. Even search threw the threads here. Right now my OD light is flashing and the speedometer is bouncing around not detecting the current speed. Also it's not going into gears smoothly. I've replaced the VSS as well as the gear on the end of it. What was the fix for it?
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so heres whats happening. My 98 ranger speedometer has not been working since I owned it (I am the second owner who got it from a grandpa) and I've replaced the vss sensor two times, got a new connector and gave that a try and still nothing. Yes I've looked for cracks in the wire or any exposed copper, I've looked through many forums and cant figure it out. At first before replacing the vss, my abs and check engine light weren't lit up until i put a new vss sensor on that i got from o'reillys, so then i got another one thinking it was just a bad sensor and still no luck. another thing is when its cold in the morning and i get in my pickup to go to work it will start working once i go over 30 and fluctuate between that and 20 but if i don't accelerate it will not bounce all over the place.
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I have '90 Ford Ranger 2wd standard cab long bed. A few days ago the speedo stopped working. What is the more likely cause? The gauge itself or a relay/cable. And if it is the cable/relay are they hard to remove & replace.
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1999 (built late 1998) Ranger 2.5 stick 2wd single cab. If I get much over 75 MPH the speedometer will reverse direction despite increasing speed. If I then let off the throttle completely, the speedo will jump right back up and indicate the correct speed. Continued operation without letting off the throttle to let the speedo recover will trip the ABS fault light, probably due to the erratic signal.
Disconnecting RABS module has no effect on symptoms. Speed sensor in the rear axle has been replaced already (by me) and the new unit ohm'd out good. Wiring between GEM and sensor checks out as well, good continuity (< 1 ohm) and no shorts to chassis ground. I wish I had an o'scope to take a look at the waveform, but I don't at the moment. It is on my future tool purchase list.
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1998 Ranger... I started having Speedometer/odometer problems after a power surge when my alternator went out. I knew the alternator was going bad and I tried to limp home another 5 miles rather than pay a tow bill and the alternator overcharged for a few seconds before completely dying. Since that time the only problem I am left with is my Speedometer and odometer have not worked. Scan tool says p0500 and I have replaced the ABS sensor on the differential with an OEM part but still no speedo or odo. I have checked all the fuses and relays associated multiple times. I do suspect that the RABS resistor is bad but there is no ABS light and it doesn't make sense that this one resisitor is the sle key for the whole speed control circuit. It's a manual transmission and RABS only. I swapped out the Cruise Control Servo with no luck as well. I am running out of options before having to take it to a dealer because I have to pass inspection. I have also checked and there is no power coming to 679 (GY/BK) into the instrument panel. I have also checked continuity for the rear harness to the ABS sensor and it is good.
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On my '91 last week I was driving on the highway about 60-65 when all of a sudden the speedo dial started climbing to 70-75-80-85 and past. The odometer seems to be working ok? Still when I drive it still operates in the same manner. It never bounces around or falls back. The needle is sort of stable such if I maintain a speed the speedo will maintain even though it's incorrect. There is a slight wavering of the needle meaning it's not as stable as it use to be. With the odometer working I was wondering and don't know. Does the cable drive the needle or is it electrically controlled? I'm thinking of grabbing another instrument cluster it that is the problem, I'd like to know more about it and understand how it works so I don't just throw parts at it until it's fixed.
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My '93 has the RABS lite on when I use the brakes and the brake light comes on when I use the brakes hard. While searching the topic I stumbled on a reference to bypassing theRABS with a piece of brake line, Looking for the particulars on this?
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Vehicle: '99 E350, V10
Symptoms: speedometer bouncing, O/D flashing, harsh shifts. Symptoms do not present until the van has been driven at highway speeds for about 20 miles. Then, the speedometer starts to bounce a little. Then, after another 5 - 10 miles, the O/D light starts to flash. Then, with a few more miles, the harsh shifting begins.
Parts replaced: neutral safety switch, rear ABS/speed sensor (twice), instrument cluster.
Each time after I replaced a part, when I drove the van, all was fine until it had been driven at highway speeds for about 20 - 25 miles, regardless of whether the engine was warm or cold. Where to go next with it?
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2002 e350 7.3 diesel transmission... At 7 miles the speedo began bouncing and truck drops into second. Parked it 30 minutes, stated up no problem until 8 miles and the it started again. Have checked most of the electrical, changed speed sensor and transmission position sensor. Only error code 2-3 rd gear mismatch.
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Recently the ABS light came on (truck does not have ABS), also speedometer quit working and trans was not shifting right. After a few minutes the problem went away.
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