I had to replace the tie rods in my mazda b2300 and the mechanic also replaced the brake pads.
Now when I drive, I can hear the pump for the brake fluid going on and off when I'm not even using the brakes and the ABS goes on a lot too.
He tried resetting the computer by unplugging the battery for a bit but it's still doing it.
All I did was take wheel off to tap a stud and I saw the inboard pad shim came off. So I removed the shim and reinstalled everything and the wheel is severely pulling to the right. Yesterday I took the caliper off but did not take off hose, cleaned slide pins and lubricated with anti seize. Still pulling to right bad. Don't hear any squealing or grinding. But pass side wheel is definitely hotter than drivers side. One mechanic said he thinks it would be a bad hose before replacing caliper. What could it be?
View 8 RepliesBought this truck at auction a few days ago. Started drive home and noticed temp gauge almost pegged full hot. Stopped and left it and pickup up later that day with trailer. Got home and started and ran it. Will not overheat at idle. Gauge fluctuates between full cold and 1/2 at idle. Rev up and temp drops to full cold. Drive around town under 35 and it stays between 1/2 and 3/4. Get on the highway and Pegs full hot. Replace thermostat and flushed system. Lots of rusty water and chunks of rust/mud poured out.
Upper rad hose is firm and hot. Lower rad hose is warm soft. Bypassed heater core and still over heats. I can run water hose from top hole on radiator and water crosses threw radiator and pours out the bottom so I don't think it's clogged. It's not the head gasket, I have no smoke, no milky oil and no oil in coolant. Fan clutch seems fine, I can spin it with the engine off and feel resistance. Truck hasnt boiled over while running hot so the gauge may be wrong. If it means anything the truck runs very rough and pulled up a misfire on cylinder #1 and had a iac code.
I have to fix the truck. Battery is pretty new, replaced solenoid next to battery this morning. Truck still won't start, just clicking away. Decided I needed to replace the starter, put the truck on jacks and went to the starter. At the starter solenoid there is a red cable attached, and a "loose" red wire, with a connector on the end. It would appear the connector just needs to be reconnected to the solenoid. But it won't "connect". Am I missing something? Should it not connect to the prong on the solenoid? Should I just replace the starter, and forget about the wire? I do have Chiltons for our truck, but it doesn't show a picture of the prong on the starter solenoid.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2003 Ranger 2.3l with 327k miles on it. I recently replaced the belt and now it doesnt want to start. The belt is on correctly and tensioner is tight. The battery is fully charged its just not firing up and starting. All connections are good, the ac and power steering pulleys are relatively new. Now i have been stuck tryin to fix it for a week...
View 8 RepliesI replaced the clutch, slave, flywheel and pilot bearing. Now it sounds like gravel bouncing around under the truck.
Everything works beautifully, but there is horrible noise especially at idle. If push the clutch it will quiet a little. If I change the rpm it will get worse then quiet out then get loud again, there is a sweet spot.
What the heck did I do wrong. It's a horrible gravelly grinding sound.
I just finished replacing the Valve body gasket in my 99 ranger with the 4.0 liter v6 with the 5r55e trans. My problem now is that I have no gears i can shift it but the gears do not engage.. I did install the updated bonded separator plate and the tsb for the blow off valve with it.
View 6 RepliesJust replaced fuel pump and now it turns over but won't crank. I have checked the fuel rail. Pressure is fine. Checked coil pack I'm getting spark. Still won't crank. Checked inertia switch it wasn't tripped. What next? 2003 Ranger edge...
View 1 RepliesI have a 99 ranger with a 2.5L that keeps throwing the p1401 code. I have replaces the DPFE sensor 3 times (finally with the motorcraft one), the egr valve, the egr tube, EVR solenoid, DPFE Hoses, Ignition Coils and Gas Cap. I have scoured the internet trying to find an answer but it seems like people just continuously throw parts at it until the code goes away. What could cause the issue?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 ford ranger XL and I get no high beams. My low beams work fine but when I try to either activate the high beams or pull for the flash to pass they do not illuminate and the indicator on the dash doesn't come up either. I have replaced the fuse with a fresh one, even though it didn't need to be replaced, and also replaced the headlights as well cause one was burnt out.
View 1 RepliesThe other day I was driving down the road on a long, flat section and all of a sudden my truck started missing out of the blue. Ever since it started missing it hasn't stopped. The truck is an '89 Ranger, 2.3l, 5 spd. The plugs and wires were replaced last year along with the timing belt and fuel pump. It has been running great since then until now. I thought maybe it might be a clogged fuel filter so I replaced that but it didn't work. Also, it doesn't miss all the time. It doesn't miss when its idling or if you are going down the road while it is missing and slowly release the gas pedal it reaches a point while you are letting the pedal up where it will even out. It definitely seems like it is an "under load missing" scenario. Also, the Check Engine Light is not on. Where should I start looking?
View 4 RepliesRanger wont fire! fuel pumps not pumping..... Jumped fuel pump relay and got both pumps working, but while jumping relay and cranking motor, still no fire. Plenty of fuel pressure though. got spark too. Replaced relay and no pumps working while key is turned to run or while cranking. I got to get this sweet puppy back on the tarmac...
View 7 RepliesMy Ranger had been shifting hard for quite awhile. I recently opted to go ahead and replace the clutch, throwout bearing, had the flywheel turned and replaced the pressure plate.
This just seemed to make the problem slightly worse. I thought it was possible that my master cylinder needed to be replaced (the slave was replaced two years ago and didn't appear to be leaking when I had the tranny off). I replaced the master cylinder and now the clutch won't disengage at all. I've spent several days trying different things to bleed the clutch, and I just can't get it to bleed. I took it back off and bench bled it, then put it back on and bled through the whole system. This isn't working. I've tried numerous suggestions-jacking up the back end of the truck, jacking up the drivers side of the truck, I even bought a vaccuum bleeder and used it for 2 hours just having an assistant fill up the reservoir while I sucked fluid out the bleeder valve. The best I could ever get was some resistance on the pedal, but not enough to push the disc away from the flywheel.
I took the pickup to Ford, they said they bled it and charged me 90 bucks and still couldn't get the clutch to release
Little back story, truck sat up for 2 years. Had 1/2 tank of gas in it that time. I had to do a complete motor swap. I been driving for past couple of days. Had it stall on me while I was waiting on wife to come out of store. Thought it was just bad gas. Today I was heading to town and had to slam on brakes and it started to stall again. It shut off. I cranked it back up and it runs fine till I start slowing down. then it wants to die.
I can keep my foot on gas petal and little and it will stay running. I got to where I was heading and put it in park and it idled fine for a few seconds and then I could hear a whine from the fuel tank. Sounds like the fuel was having a hard time, like it was fighting the pressure build.
Thing is It cranks right back up and drives fine as long as I dont come to quick stop or set idling for a few seconds. I can hear the pump straining, so I am assuming that when I keep my foot on gas a little the pressure is staying lower and not as much is being bypassed and the pump is fine. I think the pump is on its way out but wanted to hear what yall think.
I do have a brand new IAC valve that I bought and did not get a chance to use on the blown motor.
I tried to explain this to a garage in January with no luck. When it is raining I hit my brakes and my truck jerks like whiplash. Softly hitting brakes doesn't do it, normally hitting them does it (only in the rain), I had some welding done after I went to the garage.... They fixed the front passenger side now it feels like it is under me and it is now doing it when I brake in reverse too... I bought it October 2012 and it was safety inspected until October 2014. Trying to decide if it is worth keeping. I want to keep it but when I go to a garage they see dollar signs. It only acts up when it's raining. And I had the welding done in January and it was fine, until I got new tires last week.
View 12 RepliesReceived the truck, 1989 Ranger XLT long bed single cab from my mom. It had been used by my younger brothers for some years, and then sat at mom's for a couple years.
It needed new front brakes badly, so replaced rotors, and pads. No unexpected problems there.
Looked at replacing the rear. Both adjuster cables were initially broken, so they obviously weren't adjusting, or braking. Replaced with a hardware kit, and shoes, and drums. Its the 9" drums, BTW.
Still not actually braking. I can tell this, when at a stop sign in the winter, with the brake pedal held down, and the backs will still spin, with the tranny in D. Even on gravel or grass, this'll happen.
One shop told me this is because the axle seals are leaking. THey've never leaked badly, and the axle fluid isn't low, by and shade of the imagination. Also, this theory falls apart, when the parking brake works just fine, right? Its just hydraulically that they don't work.
I've since replaced the wheel cylinders, the brake line from the frame to the rear axle, and the master cylinder. No change. Bleeding them doesn't seem to be a problem; i.e. no lack of or little fluid witnessed, it seem fine.
Also have bypassed the RABS valve for about a year or so, and its made no difference. Last fall I pulled the drums off, and manually adjusted them, and it didn't seem much better either.
On deceleration with the brakes (not coast to slow) I get a growling. Sometimes a bit worse than others. Seems to get worse coming up to about 20mph from speed. No other time. I was thinking front wheel bearings as the load up from deceleration. But I just jacked it up and could not find anything that felt or sounded wrong. No play or grind or "bad" feelings in either of the fronts. Front end recently rebuilt, new tires too.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2007 ranger and when applying the brakes i get a vibration, I think it may be in the rear of the truck but it is hard to tell.
View 2 Replies My manual 5 speed 99' 2WD 2.5L Ranger is starting to have some small problems here and there. My main concern is when I start the vehicle sometimes, there is no idle. The vehicle will turn over and if I do not hold the gas pedal down it will die immediately after about 2 seconds.
If I hold the gas down so the RPM's stay up (Around 700 RPM's or so, something just a little above 0 to keep it from dying) after about a minute, sometimes few minutes the idle will kick in and I do not need to hold my foot on the gas pedal to keep the truck from dying.
This is about all I know from the problem besides that it does not matter how long my truck is sitting. For example, my truck was sitting for 5 days and I came home and started it up just fine, but after I drove it a few minutes later and stopped driving, when I went to drive it about an hour later the symptoms came back again.
Also, My brakes are acting a little funny. I went through when I first got the vehicle and bled the brakes, took the front rotors in to auto zone or another shop and had them fixed up, and new brake pads. Sometimes when I first start driving the brakes are extremely sensitive, to the point where I apply a little bit of pressure and my truck will start skidding. This goes away after driving for a little bit though.
I just had new shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders, drums, leaf springs, rear shocks, and shackles put on. The brakes were done about 4 or 5 months ago and the springs and shocks just a few weeks ago. The rear brakes were locking up after I had the work done, but I thought they were just too tight. I loosened them a little but it only worked a little.
Now it's starting to lock up pretty much every time I apply the brakes. The ABS kicks on and the rear tires skid. I took the drums off today and didn't see any leakage or anything out of the ordinary. They weren't too tight and I readjusted them but they weren't out of adjustment much if at all. I looked at the Ford symptom chart and it says for brakes that lock up easily there could be sticking or binding components. I didn't see any. Then it says check parking brake components.
Now I see they didn't hook up the equalizer bracket that goes to the front leaf spring hanger when they changed my springs so I assume thats why my parking brake pedal goes to the floor. Then it says check the shoes and linings, which are fine. The last thing it says is to check the fluid control valve. Which I'm guessing is the prop valve.
The only way to check it according to Ford is swap it for a known working valve. One person told me that it could actually be a bad brake booster check valve. Is that possible? Anything else that's common? It's got 272,000 miles on the frame but everything's been changed that typically wears out at least once.
I recently changed the front pads and rotors on my 2002 Ford Ranger 2wd and I'm having some troubles now. Occasionally when I'm pulling up to stop lights toward the end of my braking i can feel them cut out and the ABS kicks on. It's a very intermittent problem, and it only happens at low speeds. When I try to induce the fault it never happens, it only seems to after an extended period of braking going less than 10 mph. I'm very confused, and I was thinking about changing out my calipers unless know what might be happening.
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