Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Rattle Noise From Front End When Hitting Any Kind Of Bump
Apr 3, 2012
This rattle noise occurs when hitting just about any kind of bump. Sounds like coming from driver side. It sounds like something loose like a washer rattling against something metal. I recently have replaced the radius arm bushings, front springs, and shocks. The sway bar links and bushings look and feel ok. What it ended up being? I have never heard ball joints make such a noise but it wouldn't surprise me if they were in need of replacement.
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1988 Ranger, 2.9, 5 speed, 2wd, 7.5, 3.42:1, 190K or 290K on the odo.
I've been hearing this rattling, sometimes kind of a metallic ping, from the rear the last week. I thought it was probably the universal joints, didn't do it often, only under load between 1500-1900RPM roughly in second, third and fourth. I planned on working on it this weekend.
Today it started really making noise, sounds like valves rattling as though the timing was too high but it was coming from the rear end. It was making it all the way through the gears into fifth, even when cruising. Once it cooled down a bit it nearly went away.
I'm going to get started on it as soon as I can, but I can't get it in the shop to pull the differential cover and take a look right now. Dad's shop is full of crap, I live on top of a hill, not many safe places to get one up in the air properly. What is causing that sound?
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So recently my car has been making almost a crunching noise in the front end of my car usually pulling out of the driveway or hitting any type of bump. But it doesn't seem to always happen. It's a louder crunch when it's colder out. It almost sounds like a rusty door being closed/opened rather then a crunch. My car has just about 77k on it and this is the only issue I have with it.
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The headlights on my 94' 4x4 have been kind of cloudy looking since I bought it two years ago. It's not condensation on the inside, the glass just looks like it has something on it. Is this a common problem?
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Camry 2011 making noise I would say kind of rattle noise. Makes noise mostly in the morning when I push gas and stays there for 7-10 minutes and then goes away. Also in the afternoon when I get out from work and start driving. What makes this noise or where it is coming from.
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I hit a bump while pressing the brakes for a stop sign (going down hill), and I hear/feel this grinding noise through the pedal right when I hit the bump. I assume it might be the surface after the bump as it happened in the rain and it could be slippery causing the brakes to lock or something. I don't know, I might just be paranoid.
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I have a 70,000 mile touring SE which at low speeds( less than 20) has a rattling/clunking noise when hitting any small bump. Can not hear anything at higher speeds. Steers well noise could be coming from both sides. They did replace my transmission at 40,000 miles. Car does not bounce when pushing on it like a strut is bad.
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I have a 07 Ranger and the passenger door sounds loose when I hit any bump. Where should I start to make any adjustments on the door?
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My 99 ranger has just hit 111,000 miles. I'm getting a weird sound from the front right whenever I turn the truck slightly to the right. I don't hear it if it's leaning left. Is this likely the wheel bearing? I've heard these rangers are not best known for the quality of the wheel bearings.
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I have a 2011 Prius 2, with 35K miles, and have noticed a clicking sound in the steering when hitting a small bump or hole in the road. If the car is parked, I can rock the steering wheel back and forth, and hear a clicking sound. I do not remember the noise being there until recently.
Also the radio reception seems to have gotten weaker. If I am on a trip out of town, it now seems that I am looking for stronger stations frequently, as static interferes. I had the car to the dealer for this a few months ago, and they said they could not duplicate the problem
This car is about ready to drop off the warranty, and would like to have Toyota pay for the repair if it is needed.
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I'm hearing a sort of faint rotating squeaking noise coming from the front of the engine; I can only assume that it's something with the belts. Nothing too pronounce cause I just notice it yesterday, anyway I was hoping I get another take on what this might be before I take it to the mechanic tomorrow.
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first off my truck is 2001 ford ranger 4x4 with an auto. transmission. when I'm driving around in 2wd, everything is fine...
when my 4wd high is on, and I'm starting from a deadstop my truck makes a weird "clunking" noise in the front end. If I'm stuck in mud or snow, and I give gas it keeps "clunking". where the problem comes from?
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2011 Lexus RX350
24,000kms/15,000 miles on the odometer
Owned vehicle for 13 months
I've been experiencing this annoying rattle coming from the front end. The rattle is not very loud and every time I drive over a bump, it sounds like I am driving over a Texas gate. I don't feel the rattle, but I hear it. It occurs only when I drive over a bump on the passenger side. No rattle occurs when I drive over a bump on the driver's side.
I have 3 questions:
1. Is it fair to rule out a bad engine mount?
2. Is it reasonable to pinpoint this to possibly a bad strut mount on the passenger side?
3. What are the impacts of driving 1700 miles until having this looked at? I have to go out of town next weekend. I called the Lexus dealership here at home and the earliest they can look at it is two weeks from now.
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I was driving and i was doing about 60 65 and i hit a bump and i heard a loud rattle and it shock the hell out of me then it just stop...
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Ok, I have 1997 Ford Ranger, 4cyl, manual transmission, and more miles than I'd like to admit to.
Yesterday, I noticed that one of the vacuum lines was coming dangerously close to hitting the serpentine belt on the front of the engine. The clamp that normally holds the vacuum line in place rusted away a decade ago, so I decided to use some velcro ties to attach the line to the positive battery cable. I didn't twist or pull on the cable in any way and the vacuum line isn't applying any force to the cable.
I get in the truck a few hours later, hit the key and I get >click<, but nothing out of the starter. One click when the key is in the start position, nothing more (as opposed to click-click-click).
Not thinking about my repair earlier, I went down to Autozone and had them test the battery - 12.8V and 550CCA, no problem there.
So then, I thought well since the click is coming from the starter relay, maybe that's where the problem is. I read on another forum that sometimes the starter relay can be resurrected temporarily by hitting it with a hammer. Which I did. And it did work! Now the truck is starting up normally every time, but I'd like to replace whatever was bad.
My questions :
1. Did I prove anything by hitting the starter relay with a hammer and then starting the truck?
2. Should I still be looking at the battery cables?
3. Should I stop hitting random parts with a hammer and take this truck down to a real mechanic before I do serious damage?
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Truck is 2011, F350, 4x4 CC Long box with a 6.2, 124,000 km on it. Was driving home last night towing my jet boat when I heard a sudden noise from the front end, kind of shudder, first reaction was a flat so headed to the curd. No flat, nothing running hot, no play in wheels, all looked good underneath the front end. Pulled out and drove away, got about 15 km and it happened again, looked all around nothing obvious so pulled out and drove home (25 km) no issue.
This morning wanted to investigate further. Drove truck down the block and heard a definite rotating type sound. Not a grinding more like a scrape sound. After a minute it went away. Went into a parking lot and drove in tight circles but no strange noise. Found that the auto locking hubs were not working but hub would lock in manual. No strange noises with hubs locked in either.
Jacked up truck rotate front wheels, no sound and no play or wiggle on either side. Pulled the hubs and the passenger side had water in it. Hub was not rusty but it didn't look as good as the other side. Not sure how water got there as I have never driven in water, although I am not original owner but have had it two years and put 25,000 km on it. Could the water have gone in deeper and caused a bearing to fail?
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I have a 2003 Volvo C70 that I've owned since 2004. In February, I ordered struts for the front with all the trimmings, (spring seat, strut mount, bump stop, etc) from FCP Euro. The struts were Sachs 553-058, which are supposed to be as good if not better than the original struts. I installed them myself, meticulously following the instructional video FCP publishes on YouTube. Installation went very smoothly. Afterwards, I noticed a rattle/knock coming from the right front when I drove over a bump or rough area.
I took it to a local tire/brake place that I have a good bit of confidence. After driving the car, the guy says, "You gotta bad strut!" Called FCP. They sent me a new strut. I installed it and sent the other back. Sounded a LOT better—for about two weeks. Now I am hearing the sound on both sides. I took it to a very reputable Volvo mechanic, I have used since the warranty expired. He drove it, confirmed the sound was not normal. We put it on the lift and he checked everything on the front suspension and was stumped. He said there was nothing wrong with my installation, no problem with the suspension.
Okay, FCP has an unconditional satisfaction guarantee, so I could replace these with a more expensive strut for say $50 more, but is the problem with the struts? I would hate to have to do this installation again and still have the same problem.
'03 C70 Convertible LT110,000 mileswell-maintained, great-running car
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I would describe the noise as a low rattle/knocking when i hit bumps(or the second after). i thought it might be my spare tire knocking around in its trunk well under the carpet. I actually removed it and drove around to check, but it was not the issue. I had a mechanic look at wheels/suspension because of this noise, he told me the rear passenger side sway bar link needed to be replaced. I personally ended up doing the work and replaced the right and left rear sway bar links however the noise persists.
while the rear was jacked up i tried wobbling the wheels with my hands to check for play but found nothing in any direction. The mechanic seemed to think everything else looked ok.
I only notice it at low speeds like driving around a neighborhood. The big bumps it either isnt happening or the noise is drowned out by the general sound of hitting larger bumps. But over mildly bump sections such as a bad asphalt patch chop it can be very noticeable.
Its not very consistent, its hard to predict when ill hear it and its almost like its during when my suspension settles after hitting the bump that its heard.
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Went to pick up my Touareg tonight. Took it for a quick test drive and there was a noise and rattle coming from the steering column when you hit bumps. It sounded like metal on metal. The tech guy drove it with me and agreed something is wrong. They put it up on the rack but I left because I had been there for one hour and that was already past my mental limit for being in a car dealership. I didn't sign the paperwork. Told them to call me when they figure it out and I'll come back and buy it if the problem is not significant. Everything was going great until then.
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I have a 2007 RAV4. About a year ago, if I was going up a gentle incline and hitting 40 mph, my car would make a rattle noise (sounds like it's coming from underneath me), and then once I passed 40, it stopped. Over time, it stopped taking the incline to make that noise happen, now it just happens whenever I hit 40, if I'm increasing my speed slowly. If I put more gas on the pedal and increase more forcefully, the sound doesn't happen. And, the sound never happens when I'm going from faster to slower, only slower to faster. What this might be?
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My '91 Ranger 4X4 has developed an odd rattle that sounds like it's coming from the transfer case. It seems to be pretty much the same whether the truck is stopped or moving, or in Park or Reverse, or in 2wd or 4wd or Low Range. I hear it when the engine is just idling, with the transmission in Park and the parking brake on. It seems to be getting louder. I have the 4L V-6 with auto transmission.
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