Since putting my new exhaust on (post-cat)... I've had this "ping" occasionally from the exhaust. Sounds as if someone is taking a small metal bar and hitting the exhaust. Random intervals, pretty loud, does it whether the engine is off or on. Only does it when warmed up though. I can't narrow it down due to the randomness of it.
View 5 RepliesMy 2003 Ranger 2.3L When I purchased it in 2005 I never noticed this tapping noise until in 2007 when Tennessee forced 10% Ethanol added to fuel. That is when the noise started.
What this could be. I have since moved to Texas and found a station that sells Ethanol Free gas, but that does not remove the noise.
Okay so the other day my ranger wouldn't start after i got off work, it would turnover only occasionally but now it wont even do that. I've tried the fule turn on/off switch underneath the passenger glove box. I unscrewed the fuel like valve cap and pressed the pin but the fuel like barely squirted out so does it mean my fuel pump is bad or what??
View 9 RepliesCompressor clutch engages, lines are cold, when it works air is cold. A/C guy thinks the blend door isn't working right, is it vacuum operated or electric?
View 3 RepliesMy M5OD in my 1999 Ranger 4x4 with 3.0 occasionally pops out of 3rd gear. I think it does it only under light throttle or coasting. Also some vibration, especially in 3rd gear. Once in a while the gears grind when shifting into third. Truck has 145,000 mostly highway miles. Frequent fluid changes with Redline D4ATF.
What could be the cause, bad synchros ? How hard is it to remove the transmission and make a repair for something like this, what kind of special tools, etc. I assume a transmission jack would be real useful, what else would I need other than the normal wrenches and sockets ? Is there a good shop manual recommended for doing this repair ?
I am considering purchasing a 1999 4x4 ford ranger. The original owner has receipts for everything done on it recently. Rebuilt transmission, New ac, New shocks, new tires. I have never owned a ford but I always loved my friend's ranger. The only problem I had with it was an occasional clunking/rattling noise when test driving. I have read and was told this can be a common problem.
View 1 RepliesMy 1999 Ranger with 4.0 EFI V6 engine makes a "sucking sound" occasionally. At first I thought it was a belt slipping, but now I believe it is some kind of intake air leak. If I stop the truck while the sound is on, I can open my driver's door and get to about the front of the hood before the sound stops. I have never been able to observe the engine with the "sucking sound" on. Sometimes the engine will kill when the "sucking sound" stops, if the engine is idling and in gear. If I just keep driving normally, there does not seem to be any permanent problem. What the problem is?
View 4 RepliesThe problem I have is the truck won't move in o/d. If I put it in revers 1,and 2 it works. A little back ground. 4 years ago the trans went out of my 95 4.0 4x4, had it rebuilt so it has 0 miles on it. It got really cold that winter had lots of trouble getting the trans and torque converter lined up. motor went bad on me. A few months ago finally had some money to spend bought a 98 explorer sport with a 4.0 x code motor. the motor runs fine apart from an oil leak and an exhaust leak. the exhaust leak is no big deal I just haven't gotten the system tight yet.
View 8 RepliesThis is for a Pontiac Vibe. I broke one of the bolts that connects the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. Need to get some type of nut/bolt/spring that I could use to fix it. The bolt is sticking out of the flange about 3/4" if I had a long nut to screw onto that?...........
View 6 RepliesI have a 98 Ranger 3.0 with a standard transmission. The truck has 240,500 miles so far. It runs just as good as the day I got it 11 years ago, doesn't use any oil and still gets 23 MPG. Last fall, it developed what sounds like an exhaust leak under the hood. It seems to be coming from the area of the EGR valve. The trouble is that I can't feel it or smell it. I have carefully felt the entire length of the tube running from the EGR to the exhaust manifold and cannot feel any leaks. There is no soot or any other evidence of an exhaust leak.
The noise isn't there for the first minute or so that the truck is running. I would think that if I had a cracked manifold or some other such leak, it would be worse when the engine is cold but this is not the case for me. It is most noticeable when pulling a hill as slow speeds in a higher gear. I have checked for codes (no CEL) and there are none. When I first heard it I figured that I would wait until it gets a little worse and I would be able to find it. Its been been over 8 months now it has remained the same.
1994 reg cab 4.ol 13ok.. my wife just got it, been doing some small things like replaced dome light, replaced cargo/third brake light, truck starts and seems to run ok. but i get a headache in it which i believe is carbon monoxide, has a leak or something? i text previous owner, he said he replaced 02 sensors, but didnt say if they were bosch or a good brand.. also trucks has a oil pressure and coolant temp gauge fitted on by the gear shift as the dash gauges for those functions are out. Does this mean the CTS may not be working and affecting fuel/air I do not know these trucks i only just found out what this strange silver looking thing was it is the IAC, I Believe, then there is this black plastic vacuum type cylinder by the passenger side firewall, what is that? and right against the drivers side fire wall is a small reservoir type thingy, is this something to do with ABS? i do have an ABS light on, was hoping it was the bulb out on the third brake light or something quirky like that no such luck its still on after starting engine. but i am concerned about this running rich/strong smell as we really cant take it far as is it, its dangerous, may have to get a smoke test? Just got the truck, trying to get caught up..
View 8 RepliesI have a 87 ford ranger pickup, it is running extremely ruff. You can smell the exhaust and it smells super rich and is even spitting fuel out of he exhaust. when I bought the truck the wires were cut on he oxygen sensor, so I put a new oxygen sensor in it hoping that it would lean out the fuel. The truck has duel tanks on it, but the back one is off and it is draining fuel out of the line when it is running. I don't know if the catalytic converters are plugged too, the truck only has 65,000 miles in it. or maybe its a vacuum line leak?
View 4 Replies2002 Ford Ranger edge 3.0 flex ... Truck was running fine and giving me no issues. I woke for work the other day and went to get coffee and truck wouldnt start. I could hear fuel pump running and knew it wasnt that, it was acting flooded. So today I pulled fuse from fuel pump relay, and got it to start. Put the fuse back in and ran to gas station. On the way to the gas station it started running really rough, very low and rough idle, trying to stall out. I noticed it had black smoke coming from exhaust. I got it home, and got it to start barely, and it has the same very low and rough idle, but my oil gauge was going crazy, flickering back and forth all crazy, and the idol is terribly rough and eventually stalls out. Earlier today I did put new spark plugs in it, but not sure that has anything to do with the issue. I also hooked it up to a computer and it isnt throwing any codes.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2003 ford ranger 2.3 vin d 5 speed, this truck originally... Took it in for wires plugs front brakes fuel filter battery and added a small cold air intake. We discovered a valve cover leak and while repairing guy drops a screw into a valve and when finished he started it lodged the screw between the valve, shearing off a cam sprocket bolt. Throwing the timing. 2 valves on the exhaust side were bent and replaced. no damage to the head.
Timing was reset and the truck was running. 2 days later truck is running/had a hint of exhaust smell then started bogging dying and shaking, at which time we got an 02 bank2 lean code and fixed that. it cleared code and didn't fix it. From there we replaced coil, imrc intake bc of a crack, tried and check all vacuum, reset the timing. Timing would slip before but no longer than 10 minutes every time truck started.
Found the hole in the timing cover that holds the bolt to torque? to harmonic balancer was broke. replaced along with the diamond washers and cam sprocket bolts. timing finally held crank sensor was adjusted. truck came home for one day running good, we had removed the cold air intake and replaced the factory air intake. next day it was so slow outta first gear, you must baby the throttle, if you floor It, it sputters and kinda pops, truck stays slow all the way to about 10 mph and 2000rpm then it begins grabbing speed, 3000rpm is where this truck shifts the best, 2nd is better, third better than that.
As rpm increase the truck runs better, it idles steady at 1100-1200rpm at stops with an audible miss and then struggles again on takeoff. Here what im wondering, the truck has an abs sensor that just came on, but no codes showing now.tomorrow I wil run matko determinator 3.0 on it. and test the catalytic converter. first how do I check the timing belt to see if it stretched? do these trucks store the p.i.d.s. koer or kams that could cause one, all, or any of this and if so do I have to have it flashed from ford or can you manually do this without a drive cycle test.
First noticed it several minutes after I shut the car off, then realized it was making the same noise while running.
I have never heard anything quite like this, including my A4 which runs much hotter than the Passat. Sounds like the exhaust is expanding and contracting...not sure why it would do that.
Our 2007 Ford Ranger PJ 4x4 3L diesel automatic pings slightly on acceleration when the engine is not loaded. When pulling a caravan it pings very badly for an extended time. I release the throttle slightly to stop the pinging. If the EGR is not functioning, engine light on and scan tool displaying code 2143, there is no sign of a ping under any conditions. I did need to replace the Timing Reference Sensor on the flywheel housing due to a fault.
View 8 Replies1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
My 1992 Ranger has a 2.3L 4cyl 100hp engine with 207k miles. It occasionally hesitates when beginning to accelerate but never when at idle or when driving at speed. I don't even know where to begin. The engine has had consistent maintenance and runs well otherwise. This hesitation makes me afraid that it will damage the drive train somewhere. I'd like to at least know what the problem is even if I can't fix it myself because I've done most of the work on the engine.
View 3 RepliesFor about 6 months my 95 ford ranger 2WD 4 cylinder pick up has occasionally gone into "over drive" when it is not in gear the idle will get crazy high, like one of those party toys that yo blow into and it spins an makes noise. Once put into gear it calms down but it has more forward motion without gas than before. If it gets really bad at stop lights I will turn it off and turn it back on. It may still do it when I turn it back on but by then I will be putting it in gear. When it is in this condition and I turn it off it takes longer to turn off, like it is winding down.
I would say that this happens every 4th time it is drive, sometimes less sometimes more. There seems to be no rhythm. I took it to an electrical specialist and they could not find anything, and last week the check engine light came on so I took it to our normal mechanic. They did a test and found that the engine speed limiter had been reached which was why the check engine light came on and also pretty scary. The diagnostic codes were P0500 and P1270. I am worried 1. that this is making the care unsafe to drive even though it seems like we can manage it to a degree and 2. that is is doing damage to the car by putting it in such a hyper work mode.
I have a 1991 ford ranger 4x4, 4.0 v6. 190,000 miles. Runs great and even gets 18-20 mpg on hwy trips with a 1200lb camper. I have been using small amounts of antifreeze for the passed year with no leaks. Lately much more, sometimes a 1/4 gallon in 400 miles. 4,000 miles ago was having a miss and changed the plugs that had 30,000 miles on them. Miss went away but came back 2000 miles later. Changed plugs again and wires and miss went away. Now about 1000 miles later no miss but using more antifreeze. The plugs each time looked pretty good. The last time, when I changed the plugs and wires, it started blowing a lot of white smoke on initial start up for at least 30 minutes at idle, then just water dripping off the tail pipe.
It did that a few more times and then stopped. When it sits for a few days I can see the smoke on start up for a few minutes only. I just took a 400 mile trip with the camper and it ran great except for the using antifreeze. I took a compression test and they are all within 7 lbs of each other. I did a block test using the blue fluid in the proper tester to check for exhaust fumes in the air in the radiator. The fluid stayed blue indicating no exhaust fumes in the radiator. I hooked up a radiator pressure tester and pumped to 20 lbs, didn't drop for 30 minutes. On a cold engine pumped radiator tester to 10 lbs, disengaged ignition and turned engine over 5 different times 10 seconds each. Needle stayed at 10 and didn't fluctuate.
I hooked up a vacuum gauge, teed into the line from upper intake manifold to brake booster. I am at 5000 feet altitude so deducted 5 from all the results of the tests I read about online. Everything seems totally normal with vacuum. Needle is steady at 16 at idle, 17 steady at 1800 rpm and 2500 rpm. At 2500 rpm for 15 seconds and release throttle it climbs to 19 and then back to 16. If intake manifold gasket is leaking would it show up in vacuum test?My first thoughts were head gasket but after reading some forums I am wondering if it could be intake manifold gaskets. I am not sure about the configuration of the water and intake ports.
Seems like antifreeze is getting into the combustion but no combustion getting into the antifreeze.I called Ford dealer and they said could be a thermostat housing or sensors around that area on the intake manifold or the water pump and of course wanted me to bring it in for testing. It does not make sense to me how any of those could cause leaking into the manifold? How that could happen and how to check for that?So....Is there any way to know if the antifreeze is coming from either of the intake gaskets or the head gasket or a cracked head? If it was a cracked head or head gasket I was thinking of trying a sealer, steel seal. If a manifold maybe a product with copper in it. If that didn't work then I was going to tear it down.