Hello. I never did this before but could you lock one hub in 2wd and leave the other unlocked. Also can you leave one hub locked while in 4wd? I was thinking if you have one hub locked would all the power would go to that wheel? Or will this do damage?
Thanks
I have a 95 Ford Ranger 2.3L with a five speed. I recently had a starting issue were I parked the truck, went into a store came back out and the truck wouldn't start. Figured it was the solenoid as I couldn't jump across it to get the truck to start. Replaced the solenoid. Still no go. Found a fuse in the starting circuit blown. Replaced the fuse and got it started and drove home. Next morning, I go to leave for work and the truck would not start. Got a ride to work came home and checked it over and found the starter locked up. I replaced the starter. Truck started for a few days and now I am having problems again.
Here is the problem I am having now. Starter is good. Proved that as I can start the truck by jumping across the starter relay. Checked the solenoid with a voltmeter and it is doing what it is supposed to do when the truck starts normal. Here is where I am scratching my head. I can start the truck sometimes and it starts just fine. Next time I try to start it, the fuse will blow.
Replace the fuse and it might work for a couple of starts and then the fuse will blow again. I jumped pass the fuse with a piece of wire for diagnostic purposes. Out of 20 starts, it only started normally 4 or 5 times. I have checked every wire I can see under the dash and have not found any obvious issues. I am at a point where I am so frustrated that I just want to push this 400k mile truck into the back forty and put it out of its misery like a lame horse.
Last night I backed up out of a parking space and when I put it in drive it wouldn't move. It seemed like the transmission was locked up. What happened? The truck was running fine. It's a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0 with auto transmission. Getting it serviced? I'm tempted to go to a dealer. What the problem is? Repair costs? The fluid looks good - no burning smell.
View 5 Replies1991 Ranger, standard cab, 2wd, 2.3L engine, 5 speed
Transmission abruptly locked up in traffic, in 5th gear, brought the truck to a halt. Got it towed home, searched the forum for information on how to remove the transmission, and tackled the task today. I've done transmissions and clutches before - how hard can this be?
Well, I've gotten everything loose and am ready to brace the trans and remove the cross brace to gain access to the top bolts - I have seen them, but haven't tried to reach them. I've been hung for about the last 3 hours trying to get the two top side bolts - heads facing forward. I can feel them, have gotten a socket on them, but have NOT been able to get a wrench up to them to break them loose. Feels like there is a reinforcing flange or something right adjacent that prevents access. I've tried extensions, flex joints and box ends - I just can't seem to find the right combination.
2nd question - do I need to break the exhaust system loose before I allow the engine/transmission assembly to tilt downwards? Looks to me like it needs to be disconnected to allow the assembly to drop.
My 04 ranger edge steering wheel is locked the tumbler is out but the little gear box on the tumbler is broke off and still in the assembly how do I get it out to install a new tumbler?
View 2 RepliesLast night, on my way home, I suffered a catastrophic transmission failure in my 1991 2.3L 5 speed. Stepped on the clutch on an exit ramp from the freeway and was rewarded by a LOUD screech/grind, a stopped vehicle, and a transmission "locked" in 5th gear. The local HERO service pushed me out of traffic and I got towed home. Looks like a transmission transplant is in my immediate future. So - the question is, what year manual transmissions match up to a 1991 2.3L 4 cylinder, standard cab, 2WD? I need to start searching salvage yards.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
I have a 1999 XLT and i had a bad moment yesterday. I always put the toolbox in the back side of the cabin, while doing maintenance i tried to open the rear door and I couldn't. I noticed its locked from the upper because the lower looks free. The other thing i noticed the two wires going to the handle to open it feels loose. First time happened to me and i really use that door often.
View 2 RepliesMy low miles (under 50k) 1999 Ranger has a 5-speed manual transmission. One morning, I could not move it. The shift lever shifted, but the gears were locked. No forward, no reverse, and it wouldn't roll in neutral. Eventually, I popped the clutch, and, with a loud BANG! restored itself.
Background: I had rolled the car up tot the curbing in my driveway, so the wheels touched, then shut it off (in gear) and finally set the emergency brake. I'm guessing that this caught the gears in a way that caused the problem.
Yes, it's running just fine now. What happened?
I easily removed the key lock cylinder but when I went to put the new one in I cannot get it to turn all the way back to lock the pin in place. The steering wheel is not in the locked position nor can I get it to lock. I have turned the steering wheel as far left and right as I could go with no success on getting it to lock or on getting the ignition key lock cylinder to turn back securing the actuator pin. The old key lock cylinder won't go back in either. What am I doing wrong?
View 3 RepliesFor those of us who owns 1988 735IL and battery died and doors are locked and tried to lift the passenger door and turn the key 100 times to engage emergency unlock and did not work below solution works good.
FYI the trunk unlocks and opens with the key by just placing the key and turning then push the button
This my friend is ingenius tried it after I've been working to unlock the door with a dead battery for 6 hours even AAA don't have a clue (Slim Jim is discontinued due to side airbag. Lock smith would do the same by turning the key while lever is up position but the lock knob button needs to come up about an inch and a quarter. Good luck with that.
Solution I did
- open the trunk by with the key. Yes the trunk will open
- pry the trunk light and locate positive and negative post.
- remove the electronic connector protector
- removing bulb not necessary
- Jump Start device 300AMP or a 12 Volt power source for cars
- simple wire from an old electronic device
- have to wires for red and black
- Stripped it to expose metal then connect positive and negative to the trunk light connector (pay attention red and black) goes to red and black of the battery source
- set polarity on the jump start 300amp gadget
- it gives enough juice to the system
- then turn the key on the passenger/driver key
- it works
I just changed my Oil, added a FRAM filter and bought some good Quakerstate High Mileage and my truck runs good. However, I noticed that my Check Oil light is constantly on. I also recently changed my Oil Sender, and I wonder if that has got something to do with it.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1994 2.3l 4cylinder xlt ford ranger regular cab Manuel transmission. My transmission is going out. I found an 04 ford ranger Manuel transmission off a v6 will this be compatible? And if not what years will be?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1994 ford ranger 4x4 that I just put on and 35's and when I get to 35 mph it shakes really bad. What the problem is. Have been told that I need a steering stabilizer.
View 9 RepliesI need to change the AC relay. What is the location of the relay.
View 6 RepliesI have a weird issue. When I'm running AC on my 2.3l ranger sometimes the idle wont go down but rather hold its current RPMs till i either turn the AC off or place the truck back in gear. What that could be?
View 6 RepliesOpinions welcomed...thinking of taking a gamble on an '04 with 248k miles on it.....not sure what engine is in it.
View 14 RepliesI fit explorer rear axle to my 2wd ranger. But now I have fromt x-member with front suspension and front drive axle from explorer. Can I fit all this stuff to my ranger?
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased a 1997 Ford Ranger with a blown 4.0 with a 5 speed , I have a 5.0 with a Carb and 5 speed out of a 80s mustang . Is it possible to use this in the 97 Ranger , I understand I need a different fuel pump but motor mount wise I was hoping it would fit.
View 2 RepliesSo here is what I got. Code 157 maf sensor below minimum voltage. Here is what the truck does. When the MAF is plugged in and I step on it, the truck surges and when it drops below 1k rpm it dies but I can start it back up. If I hold the throttle at 1k it stays alive. When I drive with the MAF unplugged it runs better no surging but it still dies. Here is what I have done. Reset codes no change, put new MAF in no change. I have traced all 4 MAF wires checked continuity from inside of plug to inside of plug.
All wires checked out good. No cuts breaks or anything. I have checked my battery, starter, and alternator ad all check out fine. I read that someone said if the corresponding transistor in the PCM took a dumb then it would cause not enough voltage to get to the plug because the transistor would dump the voltage from the battery leading to the MAF. I thought about running a direct power source from the battery to the voltage side of the MAF with a switch in the truck to just see if that would solve the issue but I don't know if that is possible or smart.
Ok first I am not super-mechanically inclined but i'm pretty smart and a fast learner, lol. That said I have a 1999 Ford Ranger and two nights ago first one blinker stopped working and then an hour later the other one stopped. What I mean by "stopped" is they weren't turning on at all.
Ok so, the flasher lights are all working when turned on. I went to the auto parts store and they said I needed a new flasher. I bought it but they weren't sure which one to replace. Well there were only 3 that size in the box under the hood so I used the process of illumination. Except the new one didn't exactly fit the first one so i tried the two others. Well when I think I had it in the right one.
The Blinkers would only flash once and then that was it. The guy at the store said the flasher may be faulty but he did not have another one so he gave me my money back. I noticed on the way home that the blinkers would still flash once even with the old flasher in place. The 4 way flashers still work normally so all bulbs are working.