Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Oil In Radiator Fluid?
May 5, 2012
I bought me a 1993 Ford Ranger with 3.0L and 123K miles a few months ago to save on some Fuel. My F-250 was killing me. The Ranger Runs Great! Lately My Check oil Light has been coming on. So I have Checked the oil and it was slightly below the Full line each time the light came on, so I added each time. I have been wondering where the oil has been going cause it has not leaked anything on the ground. Thought it might just be burning a little oil. Well I come out today and on the front right side I see a small area of leaking Fluid. Of course it being Green I knew it was Rad. Fluid. So I Checked Fluid at the Rad Cap and it was Clean and not that low. Then I go and Check the Rad. Overflow Res. and it is Brown. and I can see where it was overflowing a little out into the engine Compartment. So that Kinda of explains where my oil has been going. I am aware the trans Fluid Cooler is in the Rad. and I am 99% sure its oil since I have been having to add oil. I have also Checked my Oil and no Rad. Fluid is getting in the oil at all.
Anyways I have done a little Research and I have seen Blown Head Gasket and Cracked head a lot in my research. So I am guessing I am looking at one of these two issues? Or is there more possible issues that it might be? As little as I paid for the Truck I dont think it would be worth fixing if It was one of those two things.
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I have a 2000 Ranger, V6 4L, and I believe my head gasket is blown, my radiator fluid goes straight to the oil pan. It has probably been leaking for a while, I did not realize it was leaking internally, I had been adding coolant for a few months but thought it was my radiator leaking because it had a crack in the housing, so I had that changed, but then a few weeks after that It gave out. I drained, and flushed the engine twice, and just parked it. My question is, should I just have the head gasket changed, or does it need a new engine because it had been leaking for a while and not sure what kind of damage it has done internally.
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I replaced a cracked radiator with a new one on my 2000 model B2500 a coupla' days ago, guessing at the refill, as I just got the truck and don't have a manual. Guestimate was pretty close, but I got some weirdness from the temp gauge for a bit. Temp gauge read cold (even though it was maybe sixty degrees outside) after idling for quite a bit, but would rise to operating temp if I ran the RPM's up a bit, then fall back to cold when I let it drop back down to idle.....never rose to above normal operating temperature, though.
I took a short drive down the road, stayed at normal temp, but dropped back down to cold when I parked it. Taking a peek under the hood, had air blowing out into the resevoir, bubbling like bathtub farts. All appears to be normal today, but I've gotta' take this truck for a roadtrip in a coupla' days and would like to make sure I ain't missed a step that'll send me hikin'.
What is the process of burping the radiator so's I can be sure it's all good?
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I opened up my hood yesterday to check on everything and happened to notice that my radiator cap was gone. I don't know if I just forgot to put it back on the last time I checked my coolant or what happened, but I of course immediately bought another one and put that on. What happened to the old one. Looked all through the engine and didn't see a cap laying in there anywhere.
Anyway, do I have anything to be worried about? My truck has never overheated or anything. I really don't know how long I was driving around with that cap off. The coolant was a little low in the radiator but actually not too bad. Only had to add a little to get it back to the top. Should I be worried that this caused any damage in any way or am I OK since I never overheated?
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I am fixing the front of my 2000 Ranger? I need to replace everything from the radiator support fwd. I need to know how to get the radiator support out.
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1992 3.0L V-6 RANGER
New thermostat
New Water Pump
I noticed the other day that the Upper radiator hose gets Sucked Flat when RPM is higher than Idle BAD it completely collapses IDK how it can circulate the coolant very well in this Condition. If the hoses have ever been changed But the Upper hose Really gets sucked flat. I've seen this a few times on vehicles that have been shutdown But they have always expanded upon startup and are fine....
The Lower Looks Fairly Old and only partly collapses under higher RPM.... I am going to change the Upper hose at a Minimum as its really Bad and probably a lot older than I am thinking and really Soft. I am just wondering if the radiator could be plugged up causing some of this.. Or anything else I should check into????
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I have a 94 ranger with the a4ld in it. When I bought the truck the trans was shot so I took it out and rebuilt it including new pump and torque converter. Now after putting it back in the truck wont move. so i took one of the lines off of the cooler and there is no fluid moving...?????what should i do before i cut my losses and blow the damn thing up??
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. I'm going to FINALLY change the tranny fluid in my 95 Ranger Splash this weekend and need all the feedback I can get! It's a manual trans with miles shy of the 250,000 mark...still on the original stuff!! I'm only the 2nd owner but I bought the truck with just 45,000 miles on her so I'm willing to bet the farm that it's never been changed. It's getting harder to shift from 1st to 2nd and I'm getting a little bit of grinding from 3rd to 4th if I shift too fast. Reading all the threads everywhere online, so many different people have so many different theories from stock Mercon V to MOTOR OIL??? The motor oil thing floored me but I understand the viscosity difference between hydraulic fluid and lubricating oil. figure out what the best thing to replace the original with to prolong the life of this long running wonder vehicle!
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I am in the process of removing the lower intake on my 99 Ranger 4.0. I was unscrewing the AC Compressor to get it out of the way and also started to unscrew a bolt on the backside of the compressor because it wasn't moving well due to the metal tube on the backside. I think this is the tube to the condenser? Anyways it started spraying air and green fluid everywhere. I got it to stop for now but if I tighten or loosen the bolt it seems to spray. Also it looks like a green o ring or gasket of sort is showing now which I don't remember. What is it and what should I do?
[URL] .....
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I have a 1993 ranger 3.0L/6cyl/automatic/ a4ld. I replaced the transmission and torque converter with one from a salvage yard that has approx. 76k miles. I added tranny fluid and idled the engine for approx. 10 minutes in neutral, but the fluid has not begone to circulate. I pulled off the trans line at the radiator and there is no flow with the engine running in park. Where should I start with the diagnostics for this problem?
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I bought a 1990 ranger with only 38000 miles on it from a online auction from boing aircraft. it never left the flight line and never even had a title. I picked it up from the airport and found out that it didn't have AC like they said, I was a little ticked but that isn't the main problem. When I drive it and it gets warmed up it leaks Tranny fluid from the front of the transmission. The engine does not overheat. It is a 4 cyl AOD automatic with a real thin radiator and a transmission cooler. Without AC the truck isn't the good deal I thought I was getting, and with a bad tranny this is becoming a big OOPS. Why this is happening?
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My 2000 Ranger has been leaking fluid around the front Diff cover so I decided to pull the cover and reseal it. It was obvious that this was going to be a tight job but I didn't anticipate running into a bolt that can't be removed because interference from the front cross member.
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Dad gave me an 87 Ford ranger a couple weeks ago. I love it. Everything works except I'm having transmission leak issues when I drive her more than 30 miles or so.the symptom is fluid puking out inspection plate area. I checked coolant lines today and unfortunately they are working great. I've had a couple suggestions recommending replacement of the front seal our front pump seal (is there a difference?)
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1988 ranger, its a automatic 4x4 v6 and is leaking tranny fluid real bad. Truck barley moves because fluid comes straight out...
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A few weeks back just after buying a new front hub assembly (so I know I have Live Axle 4x4 and 4WABS), a dude on an excavator pulled out in front of me on a blind curve on an interstate exit ramp. Almost got him, then almost got got by the car behind. The hard stop caused a rear line to blow.
When I got home, fluid was still coming out when I pushed the pedal, so the first thing I did was top off the reservoir. I was surprised it was not empty.
I finally got lines that would fit, and replaced both sides. Fast forward a few weeks and I had time to bleed the system. I hooked my vacuum pump to the right-rear wheel cylinder port, opened it and began to pump. Pump, pump, pump, and still no fluid. Tried a few times. Left the pump on, opened the port, (charged the battery), started the truck and pumped the pedal - no fluid. Also, the fluid level did not change in the master.
Master cylinder bleed? Do I need to have the ABS motor bled?
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I was pulling out of a parking lot making a sharp turn when all the sudden I lost my power steering. I have a '94 Ford Ranger manual transmission. It didn't make any sounds. I was going to try to keep adding power steering fluid to it and try to get it home to my mechanic in my hometown - but it drips constant liquid when I drive it down the street (you can see drips) so I don't think that's possible. I've read a lot on here about gear boxes failing, but would this cause it to leak even if the truck wasn't running? (the puddle builds quickly when its just sitting there, engine off). I took it to a mechanic (I don't have tools), and they said they can't say anything for sure until they look around, it could be seals or a new gear box.
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I just bought a used 2000 Ford F150 with the 4.6L V8 engine and I have a question about radiator fluid.
In the owner's manual it says that if the radiator fluid is green is should be changed every 30k miles, but if it is orange color it is only changed at 150k miles. I look at the radiator fluid and from outside the plastic case it is in it has a dark'ish orange/red look. When I shine a flashlight down the hole where you would add more fluid it looks orange/red, but also has a green tint when the flashlight shines directly onto the fluid.
How do I know which kind I have forsure? The truck was bought at a Ford dealer, but I never thought to look at it while I was there.=
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If my coolant temp runs around 185, how does the the radiator to cool the transmission fluid if it goes to the radiator after the tranny cooler?
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I have a 97 F-150 and my Radiator fluid has been leaking very bad but hasn't been taking the fluid from overflow tank. Actually the new fluid that I put in the overflow has now turned a rusty color....
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 V10 crew cab, I am getting trans fluid in radiator. i have had radiator replaced. it was good for about 3 months.
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I have 2007 sport trac 4.0 liter V6. I have noticed for the past week or so that I have antifreeze leaking from the bottom of the radiator and I had to add some coolant to it the other day(1/2 gallon). I know it is the radiator leaking and not the overflow so I am going to go head and order me a radiator and change it. I have read that some of the replacement radiators was not lasting but about a year before they leaked.From what I have read on the internet a lot of ford owners is having this same problem with the radiator leaking at around 60,000 miles. Also there is no transmission dip stick to check the fluid, will I lose enough fluid that it hurt the transmission. I have just had the 60,000 mile transmission service done.
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