Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Odd Sound When Taking Off From A Dead Stop Under Hard Acceleration
Feb 25, 2012
Wonder if its dry driveshaft slip splines? Only happens when leaving a dead stop under hard acceleration. Hard to describe sound, but seems to be coming from behind me, almost sounds like 2 broken pieces of steel snapping past each other. frame is o.k., leaf springs are o.k. , doesn't do it when shifting between gears or if I gently take off from a stop. I don't think there's a grease fitting for the driveshaft where the splines are (where the 2 piece shaft takes up slack for being loaded or unloaded) may have to take that apart once the weather breaks and see what i find. my 1st ranger never had this issue after 200K miles. this truck is now at 145K but its almost 20 years old. I've read somewhere before about pulling the shaft apart & greasing the splines up. does this sound like a possibility for whats happening? not sure what else it could be.
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So among the other annoyances my 92 Ranger 4.0 auto has it has a hesitation before it starts spinning the tires under full throttle from a dead stop. It's the 4.0 automatic. I thought it would have more power than it actually does being use to a 2.5 auto. But this 92 4.0 runs and drives good. I've gotten it tuned up with new motorcraft wires, plugs, new coil, fuel filter, fuel pump assembly, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, idle air valve, new O2 sensor, new Dynomax muffler. I can't find any vacuum leaks. The engine idles slightly rough after you start it up from it sitting for a few hours, but quickly smooths out as soon as you start driving it.
This one here has no EGR. Transmission feels good, may have even been replaced by previous owner before we got it. It shifts good and the fluid is clean and the transmission is the cleanest part under the whole truck. No way of knowing for sure. The truck currently has 111,000 miles and I did all that stuff when we got it at 101,000 miles. So what could it be? I'm thinking a lazy injector or could it be the catalytic converter? Or could it be the throttle body? I know I once had a BBK throttle body on it and it made the world of difference in off the line power but it kept throwing too rich/lean condition and a TPS code so I had to return it. It sucks because it did wake up the motor. I returned it and since then the Check Engine Light hasn't come back on.
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2001 Ranger Edge 3.0. Like the title says, when I start my ranger it idles really rough. If I give it gas it shudders like it's gonna die. After about 2-3 minutes it smooths out. If I'm on the interstate and down shift to pass someone, while accelerating it feels like I have a misfire (no CEL given) not all the time though. I've changed plugs and wires and it stopped doing it so I thought I had it but, it continued a few days later. Then I changed the fuel filter and it stopped again for a few days. Well it's back again. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump but I wanted to check here before I take my truck bed off. I also checked for vac leaks and I'm all good there.
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I have a 2000 Expedition that hesitates and sometimes stalls when taking off from a dead stop. The problem is not consistent and therefore hard to diagnose. I have had it to the dealership and two other mechanics and none of them have been able to fix the problem. So far they have replaced the intake gasket, fuel filter, EGR and PCV valves and have changed the PFE sensor and connecting lines. It seems they are just throwing parts at the problem and haven't a clue what is wrong. There are no error codes in the computer.
So far I have spent around $1,500 on this problem and it is not any better from when I started and it might actually be a little worse. I seem to think the problem is in the fuel system and not electrical because all lights and gauges function normally when the problem happens. I can also sometimes produce the hesitation by shifting the transmission into second gear while going around 50 mph then giving it a good bit of throttle after the engine revs. What could be going on.
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a little history here, about 2 years ago I got my first P401 so I changed the egr valve and it went away for a little while. Then I came back several months later and changed it again. along with the P401 I get heavy black smoke when taking off from a dead stop and after it gets a little speed it will run good. Here lately it seems I can only get 2 weeks to a month between cleaning the EGR valve.
Each time I clean it has a bb size piece of carbon stuck and is holding the valve open and there are several more under the EGR valve. each time I try to vacuum the carbon chunks out and clean everything as best I can. As of now I'm fed up with it and would like to do something to make it more reliable. would taking the intake off and cleaning completely and adding a EGR delete kit eliminate the carbon from building up?
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I have a 2002 Ranger with a 2.3 lt engine and a 5R44E Transmission. Has 120,oookms (75,000 miles) I have an issue.
Here is what was happening: Would not shift into Drive...took a long time to do so.... and had a 2 to 3 gear flare.
Here is what I did: Replaced the valve body gaskets. Improved a lot. The 2 to 3 shift flare has gone. The delayed shift into D is mostly gone BUT still takes 15 to 20 seconds to shift into D. Once in gear no problems shifting. Does not slip and NO OD light flashing.
What do I need to do to fix the delayed shift issue.
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Recently my 93 Ranger 4.0 has started to take longer to shift into 2nd gear and the rpms are way up there. shortened 2nd gear then 3rd will be fine and so on. This only happens after the engine goes completely cold. I took it to a transmission shop and they said tranny is fine...Other than this issue the truck is fine.
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I have begun to notice a "Knock" or "rattle" in the engine. I know diesels have a tendency to sound like that just from running but that sound is more of a "cackle" if you ask me.
I can hear the "knock" most noticeably at hard acceleration or taking off in general. It can also be heard during idle and every so faintly at deceleration with the torque converter locked so it makes me thing its mechanical due to the nature of the way the sound is audible.
I believe the sound is coming from the passenger side bank as that is where I can hear it the best with my head under the hood. I have a code reader and checked, I have no visible codes other than it telling me about secondary fuel circuit high which I suspect was from showing off with my friends.
I did a cylinder balance test and again got 3 (PO269) and 8(PO284) which I have been told are very common.
I checked my ICP readings and it was 500~ and 11%
Pulse width for injectors was 2.50~
I did a KOER test and received no codes
Glow Plugs showed okay
KOEO (PO605)- Internal Control Module Read Only Memory error.
Exhaust Absolute Back Pressure was 16.2 at Idle with MBRP 4" Turbo back.
Also, I have noticed a drop of about 5-10 degrees in my oil temp and about 100 degrees drop in my EGT's although it has been pretty cold here recently (32 degree oil temp when I started her at 2 in the afternoon)..
I think it might be a bad piston skirt? I am guessing that from my experience with motorcycle engines but these are a totally different beast and that is why I am here...
I have 634,000 Miles and from what I have been told the engine has never been broken into so I would expect something like this myself. I am mostly looking for a place to start. Should I pull the oil pan and look for debris? (Oil was clean last time I changed it less than 2000 miles ago).
Should I pull the passenger bank apart and look inside? Is there a chance I am just hearing the noise due to the additive wearing off and me being used to the quieter engine?
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I have a 85 bronco 2, but i have no luck with responses in Bronco 2 forum, so here goes. It is the 2.8 carb, manual trans with 109K miles. Idles really well some hesitation when taking off but really bad miss and not power under acceleration. KOEO codes are 31 and 84 CM code 18. I have plugged the vacuum line to the EGR and have noticed a dramatic difference. I have tried to rev the engine and check the vac line to the EGR but I do not feel any vacuum, and at idle the vac line on or off doesn't change things. Any recommendations to whether it is the Sensor or the valve itself and what gives with the 18 code. I am hoping to have timing checked by the weekend.
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98 Ford Escort SE
Been having acceleration issues with the Escort for a while now. The repairs I've made on the vehicle so far are; new fuel pump, coil pack and mass air flow sensor cleaning. Those are in order.
Now onto the issue. From a dead stop and sometimes while driving my vehicle will give acceleration issues though mostly from a dead stop. Checked the tranny fluid and it was a light brown with bubbles(?) so thought I'd do a fluid change but with the work required wanted some input before ripping into it.
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I was just curious what the best way to increase initial acceleration from a dead stop is for a 2009 F- 150 XLT with a 5.4 V-8.
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. My truck has developed a "clunk" for lack of a better term when accelerating from a dead stop. It is not a shudder as it only happens once within a few seconds of depressing the accelerator and then goes away until the next time I stop moving.
It feels like either something in the drivetrain is not engaging right away, or something is releasing, like a stuck caliper or something. From the way it feels and what I've read so far about the TC/Trans, I'm assuming it is something worn in the drive-shaft/rear diff.
But it needs brakes badly (already have all new rotors & pads ready to install) so maybe a caliper is sticking when depressed and then popping loose under initial acceleration? I think this is unlikely but possible.
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I just picked up a 1984 ford ranger long box 2 wheel drive w/ 2.0 l and carburetor for our daughter whom is just 15. it has a whopping 19,000 actual on it! It was my wife's grandma's farm truck - ordered it new from dear born. Any way, fuel gauge is pegged at empty and they had a new float assy put in about 5 years ago, but it is dead now, it doesn't appear that this sender is avail any longer. What part might fit in there and or what do i have to do to maintain the original gauge in the cluster but have a working sender to talk to it? is there another unit that goes in the tank that i can modify the signal out to read right with the built in gauge? There can't be too many different ones out there is there?
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Just hoping that there is something common that causes this problem. This thing can idle just as smooth as you could want one to and the next time it will have a dead miss, and the miss is not consistent. It may miss like three hits then be ok a little then miss a little. There is no CE light or codes. Again just hoping there is something common.
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I was messing with the battery in my 200 Ford Ranger the other day and must of arc something. I know this because after plugging my battery back up my radio fuse was blown and my alternator was killed. I replaces the radio fuse, that works now, and got a new remanufacted alternator (tested mine at Advance it was dead). I installed it and nothing changed. The battery still wasn't charging. I know the battery is good because I tested it at Advance Auto. I took the alternator back and the shop replaced it with another remanufacted one. Same thing, installed it and the battery doesn't charge.
This time I took the alt back off and had it tested at Advance. The alt was dead. So I don't know if the part store gave me TWO bad alternators or if my truck is killing them. I find it hard to believe it could kill them immediately but my automotive knowledge is not that vast. I took the second (third counting my original) dead alternator back and they gave me a brand new one no extra charge. So I don't want to put a brand new alt in my truck and it kill this one too because I doubt they will give me a fourth one. What is going on? Could it just be as simple as I got two bad eggs?
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Slight clunk feeling from dead stop under more aggressive acceleration...my 14 250 AWD has done this on 3 or 4 occasions.
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I have noticed that my car occasionally seems to take off extremely slow from a dead stop? It almost seems as if the traction control is engaging, but I am not taking off fast, and it has also happened at low speeds (10-20 mph)???? It feels like I'm towing a damn boat behind me......
The TSB for the transmission was performed last year sometime.
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The prius stock battery is weak compared to my wifes Mercury Mariner battery. The Mariner acceleration on battery alone is excellent - she can get up to 30 mph in no time on just the battery. In my prius it has very slow acceleration at a dead stop while running only on battery. Is it possible to buy aftermarket (stronger) batteries for the prius so I can at least driver the car up to 30 mph only on battery?
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02 Ranger with 3.0 Flex motor, 375K+ miles. Been chasing an issue for a while now, but am about at the end of my diagnosing capabilities. Issue started with a misfire on 5 and rough running engine with no codes showing up. Now the motor is getting worse.
Idle a little rough and no power when accelerating hard. The engine sounds like a popcorn popper under hard acceleration. Motor revs up to 4K but does not pull or shift gears until I let off the gas.
The code that initially showed up indicated a bad Camshaft Position Sensor. Changed that and the Sync assembly - as per instrucions, exactly positioned same as old one. New codes showed up - P1152, P0175, P0171. Cleaned the MAF, rail fuel pressure OK, can't find any vacuum leaks, replaced both upstream ox sensors, and changed #5 ,6 injectors.
Motor still runs the same - like crap, like a corn popper on acceleration, smooths out if only slightly accelerating, but stumbles n bumps on steady cruise speed over/around 60 mph - and no codes showing at present.
I really, really don't want, nor can I afford, to take it to the dealership, but I may be forced to if I can't figure this out sometime quite soon. I make my living with this truck so, no truck, no work till this issue is solved.
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Having a slight issue with my ranger. So I bought this truck out of a junkyard about a month ago, its a 94 4x4 with a 4.0 and a five speed. When I bought the truck the motor was blown so a few weeks ago i replaced it with a 4.0 from an aerostar van I had laying around. Right after I changed it the truck was running good with no issues, until a few days ago going to work the truck started hesitating going up a hill. Now the truck does it all the time, sitting at idle the truck runs smooth as silk, at half throttle it does it the worst but when you mash the peddle to the floor it clears up and runs good.
So far I've replaced the plugs, wires, coil pack, mass air sensor, throttle position sensor, and the fuel pressure regulator to try and fix it but nothing has worked. I've checked the fuel pressure it has 30 at idle and 40 with the vacuum hose pulled off of the regulator, I even taped the gauge to the windshield and went for a ride and there was no drop in pressure when it started acting up. a few other things i have done were plugged all the vacuum ports to rule out a leak, reset the computer and checked for codes. the only code that came up was 522. So I think my next step is going to be buy new oxygen sensors ? But my question is wouldn't the check engine light come on if it was an oxygen sensor ?
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01' Screw 5.4 4wd. Went camping this past weekend and it was the first outing for this truck our TT weighs 6k. When accelerating from a dead stop going straight I'm getting a rumble strip like vibration that last a second. If I take off very easy it doesn't do it. I've seen similar post but no definitive solutions. This truck has less then a 100k on it and so far I've changed the trans filter/fluid rear end oil with modifier and new spark plugs.
Once I'm rolling and hammer down it won't do it. It's more of a annoyance then anything.
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