Ford Ranger / B-Series :: No More AC / Very Moderate Cool Air Coming Out Even On Turbo Setting
Jun 23, 2016
When I test drove this 2004 Ranger Edge 4.0 I purchased about three weeks ago it had mucho AC cooling. So much so I had to turn it way down.
Today, when I could have used it, the AC has gone south. There is very moderate cool air coming out even on the turbo setting. Was actually better with the AC off and the windows open when the truck was on the road.
I got a sick feeling thinking maybe the dealer topped off the coolant knowing it had a leak but I have a push-on plastic coolant gauge and it is reading "filled" into that blue area about 25% of the way with the truck at idle and the AC on. The compressor is cycling on and off... mostly off, though. Not sure if that is normal or ??
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I have a 86 Ranger with the 2.3L fuel injected 4 cylinder and a 5 speed manual transmission. I can drive it for hours on the highway but if I get caught in stop and go traffic, it stalls and won't restart for about 10 minutes. When trying to restart it acts as if it is fuel starved. Spraying carb cleaner in the throttle body does make it run for a second or two. I was getting a code 18 & 67 before I changed the ignition module, now I just get code 67 or 11. I have done the following:
-Changed both fuel pumps, tank and frame rail pump (did one at a time, no improvement)
-Changed all fuel filters (in line filter, fuel reservoir filter and tank filter)
-Changed ignition module on distributer
-Changed both relays that control fuel pumps
-Cleaned battery terminals and body ground connections.
-New gas tank fill cap
I'm at a loss now as to what to do. I have been checking the codes with my multi-meter. I do not have a OBD1 diagnostic tool.
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I have noticed that my temperature gauge is indicating that usually my truck is running very cool. It seems that it is also somewhat erratic. At times it indicates what I would expect a reading in the middle of the gauge. Other times after running a while it will drop to the lower end (cool) of the gauge and stay there.
I am guessing that the thermostat is sticking open. Is there a way to test the sensors to see if they maybe bad? I have a 99 ranger with a 4cyl. It looks like I have two sensors. If one is bad, how can I determine which it is?
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My Ranger 2004 Edge wiper control lost all function save for the fastest setting. The day before I lost the lower settings but then they were there as usual. This also happened once before about a month ago and then it came back. Last night no such luck. Everything else seems to function fine. Where to begin?
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1988 Bronco II 2.9L Issues:
- When I turn off the wiper switch the wipers immediately stop in place, they do not continue to their normal 'down' position.
- The switch's adjuster to slow the wipers isn't working, only the low and high settings work.
What I've done so far:
- Replaced wiper switch with used from spare parts.
- Replaced wiper switch with new from spare parts.
- Replaced wiper motor with remanufactured from Autozone.
- Thoroughly cleaned wiper motor ground terminals.
- Replaced interval wiper governor with used from spare parts.
The problem occurred after the truck sat in my garage for 6 months while I removed and reinstalled the engine to replace some gaskets & seals.
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I'm relatively new to the 6.7 engine , I have a 2014 F-350 SRW with aprox 51,000 miles on it. Normal driving I see about 8 to 10 psi of boost even under moderate acceleration although at times it will go to about 18 psi at WOT and it does this with heavy loads. At moderate acceleration the boost will jump to 10 psi quickly but immediately stop there and sometimes as the RPM"s increase boost pressure decreases. Only issues I have had with the truck was a clogged EGR cooler.
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I am experiencing a power/boost pulse when under moderate to heavy acceleration. I'm wondering if this is a sign of my diverter valve failing or another issue withing the turbo system.
I don't have a boost gauge and the main pulsing seems to be between 2800 and 5k in the rpm band.
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'92 Ranger 2WD, brake and light inspection revealed the warning light isn't coming on. I guess there is a light that would come on in the instrument cluster either when the e-brake is on, or there is a problem in the system. The shop guy says often junk just builds up and prevents it from working; guess I will remove it to clean it up first. Guess it could also be a burned out bulb in the cluster. My Haynes book isn't very good on this.
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My '96 ranger with a 4.0 auto will be running fine and then dies. When you go to start, the engine will will crank over. Also notice that there are no lights coming on the dash when the key is in the run position. A few hours latter the truck started right up. Not reading any codes. Transmission was rebuilt a few weeks before this problem.
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My 96 4x2 2.3ltr is throwing this code (P1443). I clear it and it comes back a few cycles later. I will fix it next but won't be able to get to it for a couple weeks. What if any affect does this code have on fuel mileage and or engine performance/power?
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I have a 96 ranger with a 4.0 and an automatic transmission that has a horrible oil leak when cold. The leak looks to be coming out above and behind the oil filter. After running for a few minutes the oil leak appears to go away.
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My truck is pulsating when I am coming to a stop, a lot of you all said replace the rotors to which i did and new brakes, shocks. Today I went to get my truck all four wheel alignment done to my truck.. something is not right..
I got my driver tire facing straight, look at the left.. I went back to the alignment shop showed them that, they put it back up there, they called me over and pointed out the machine they use say, it is aligned.. So what is the problem you figure?
To update all I've done to the truck in regards to front end..
rack and pinion
upper control arm
upper lower ball joints
stabilizer inks
rotors (front)
brakes
shocks
When I straighten my left wheel, the right does not look right..
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I have a 2001 Mazda B3000. The a/c compressor is coming on while I'm running my heat. The air coming out while the heat is on stays warm. However, when I was running the A/C during the summer the air would start blowing out warm after it had been on for a while. Several people told me it may have something to do with the blend door or blend door actuator but both appear to be working fine. What it could be?
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My truck has been doing this since I got it and I can't figure it out. It's a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5 5Spd. It runs fine if you don't rev it above 2500-3000 rpm. After you rev it that high coming down to idle it is stumbling real bad and sometimes stalls. I've been driving it like this since I got it, and it does fine other than this. It gets better the longer you drive it, but it still will do it if you rev it high enough.
Here are all the parts I personally have changed (previous owner said he did the plugs and wires and air filter, which it looks like he did but I'm about ready to change them myself):
-Fuel filter
-coil packs
-timing belt
-egr valve
-cleaned throttle body
-iacv
-tps
-thermostat
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Ive got a '94 ranger with the 8 plugs and more often than not while driving and sometimes when it first starts, the cel comes on and immediately I notice a lil rough running and lack of power. Also my milage has dropped since this has started. Plugs, wires, o2 sensors, not to familiar with my gas saver. I love it cause I can just get in it and go. With twice the fuel milage as my bi truck!
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Changed my oil today. Noticed oil coming off the front of the engine. Where this could be originating or do I need to take the belt cover off? I hate having a leak. Wanna get it to stop. Just need to know what I may be up against. 1996 2.3ltr.....
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I have the problem that my 1996 ranger 4x4 has a break problem. When it comes to a stop it feels like one of the tires locks up, feel wired. Ihad the problem before i changed the front breakpads and it still continues. Air in the lines? ABS module?
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I have had a small antifreeze drip coming from up high around what I have been thinking was the water pump gasket. I have not pin pointed it exactly though. for the last 3 days i have been getting code po174 and now added po171 to that list. Also have something going on with my fuel fill vent or something as for a while now i have had to slowly squeeze in fuel to keep the pump from auto shut off on me like its full already. I have tried cleaning out that vent tube by spraying in carb cleaner even blowing on it but it seems to be a check valve, not able to blow in. i am thinking tonight that antifreeze leak may be related to those codes too. any thoughts? its on my 2003 ranger 3.0 flex fuel.
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Did I get bent over? had a banging noise coming from the rear and took it to my regular shop, they told me the leaf spring shackle and hanger brackets were almost rusted thru and one more pothole and I'd be all over the road, so they ground out the rivets and replaced said brackets. I don't have the equipment to do that kind of work but I still feel it was a little high.
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I have a 1999 passat 1.8t with 197k miles. When I drive if you listen really closely the engine makes a pretty cool sound like a turbo winding. It's a really really low whooooooo on the first and second gear. You cant hear it unless you have the windows down and there's like no other cars. Is this normal? My friend said the turbo might be going bad ?
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My '91 Ranger 4X4 has developed an odd rattle that sounds like it's coming from the transfer case. It seems to be pretty much the same whether the truck is stopped or moving, or in Park or Reverse, or in 2wd or 4wd or Low Range. I hear it when the engine is just idling, with the transmission in Park and the parking brake on. It seems to be getting louder. I have the 4L V-6 with auto transmission.
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