Ford Ranger / B-Series :: No Speedometer / Odometer After Alternator Changed - Code P0500
May 23, 2012
1998 Ranger... I started having Speedometer/odometer problems after a power surge when my alternator went out. I knew the alternator was going bad and I tried to limp home another 5 miles rather than pay a tow bill and the alternator overcharged for a few seconds before completely dying. Since that time the only problem I am left with is my Speedometer and odometer have not worked. Scan tool says p0500 and I have replaced the ABS sensor on the differential with an OEM part but still no speedo or odo. I have checked all the fuses and relays associated multiple times. I do suspect that the RABS resistor is bad but there is no ABS light and it doesn't make sense that this one resisitor is the sle key for the whole speed control circuit. It's a manual transmission and RABS only. I swapped out the Cruise Control Servo with no luck as well. I am running out of options before having to take it to a dealer because I have to pass inspection. I have also checked and there is no power coming to 679 (GY/BK) into the instrument panel. I have also checked continuity for the rear harness to the ABS sensor and it is good.
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so i changed the speedo cable and speed sensor in my 93 ranger, but still getting the speedometer bounce. what could be next? the speedo housing in the cluster? lubed the inner cable, made sure nothing is kinked or sharp bends. Put in a new vehicle speed sensor while i was at it just bcuz. cruise control does not hold a steady speed either but i think the 2 are not related. I'm leaning towards the cruise control servo as to why it does not hold a steady speed. Most of the time once i get to around sixty i'm basically driving by ear bcuz the speedo bounces from 60down to 55 and back up.
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97 ranger 2.3l 5spd ... I keep getting p0500 code. the speedometer and odometer work fine. I understand they get they're reading from the OSS on the transmission. Now I also have the vss in the axle housing which I believe is what gives the ultimate speed reading to the pcm that way there is no need to ever adjust for axle ratio.
When using the torque app with my obd reader my OBD MPH guage does nothing until I get to about 55 then it bounces around randomly between 20 and 55 and once I hit 60 mph it reads correctly. I have tried 3 different vss sensors checked wire continuity from sensor to firewall examined the teeth/sprocket that gives the vss it's reading and it all checks out...
My questions are:
- What volts or ohms are supposed to come out of the plug end so I can test if the signal to the sensor is working
- Looking for wiring schematics for this sensor to pcm...my schematic only has the oss.
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I have read several of the post on here about speedo's acting up, but I'm not finding anything that pertains to my specific problem. A few months ago I bought a 2000 Excursion, it currently has around 179,000 miles on it. When I got it the ABS light was on and this site is actually where I found out to replace the sensor on the rear end to fix that. My problem is that until a few weeks ago even with the ABS light on my speedo worked just fine and then it started acting up every time I hit the brake pedal and then eventually quit working all together and my cruise control light would flash as well as the OD light.
I replaced the sensor in the rear end and also found out about a recall for the cruise control and had that repaired as well. Now the ABS light is no longer on and the cruise light is not flashing, however the OD light still flashes and 95% of the time my speedo does not work at all. On Monday while heading to town it started working, hit the brakes and all was good, set the cruise control and used it all the way to town, but as soon as I hit the brakes the needle started jumping around and went back to zero and stayed there. I have ohmed the sensors and wires from sensors to harness under the hood and all seems good. The only code I can pull with my meter is P0500 which is just a generic code.
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I have a 1997 f150 4.6L 4x4 Standard Transmission and today I hopped in it to go to work, and the Speedo, Trip Odometer, and Odometer all are not working.
This is the first time it has happened to me, what could cause this or have a problem similar to this and know how to fix it?
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I have a 1999 740iL. The speedometer, odometer, and instantaneous mileage indicator are inoperative most of the time. Also, the yellow ABS indicator (and another yellow light) on the dash are also lit whenever the gauges are not working.
The ONLY time that the gauges work is when the temperature is under about 45 F, and if the car is cold. If the car warms up, or if the temperature outside warms up, the indicator lights go on and the gauges don't work.
I presume that there is some faulty connection that works when the parts are cold (contracted), and bad when the parts are warm (some degree of compression due to thermal expansion).
(One fellow said that this could be either an internal fault in the instrument cluster, internal fault in the ABS module, or faulty wheel speed sensor).
What makes the most sense, especially given the thermal nature of the problem??
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What are the steps to fix a broken odometer on a 1995 Ranger? I assume it is probably the gears. The truck has 169 k.
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I have a 96 ford ranger 4cyl 5 spd. I've only had it for a month or so, but I've noticed on cold mornings my odometer won't work. The trip or the total mileage. I can hear the odometer cable clicking. Once the cab gets warmed up it'll start working. It's only happened twice, at about 50 degrees or lower, so I can only imagine what'll happen once winter kicks in. Where to go from here? I was thinking maybe it needs to be re-lubed or something...
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My odometer has quit working but sometimes will run a few miles. The truck has about 100,000 miles on it and the speedometer works fine.
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Is there a fusible link from the alternator to the battery? The new alternator that I put on and got tested is not charging the battery. Was wondering if it could be a fusible link but I couldn't find it. Where it is located on a 2000 ranger?
Also, I put a DC volt meter on the negative side of the battery and the positive side of the CHARGING wire that would be connected to the alternator and got the same reading as if I put the meter on the positive of the battery.
Does this mean the fusible link is good?
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2004 ford ranger 3.0 ... So here it goes I am pretty mechanically incline for the most part i would say until this last week i got a rod knock. So i replaced all my push rods put everything back together and now my car cranks but just wont start up where did i go wrong. I cant afford to get another truck i just want my baby back up and running ...
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2001 ranger with 4.0, alternator failed and new alternator is also not charging, showing very little output. i've installed 2 new ones with no fix. the regulator is in the alternator, correct? I'm stumped and not sure where to go with this.
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98 Ranger 4.0..4WD ex CabXLT Automatic..started the engine yesterday and my charge light came on and stayed on. Checked the guage and it showed no charging and then slowly began to charge and the light went out. If I rev the engine above 2,000RPM's the charge needle starts to drop but if I keep RPM's below 2,000 charging is okay. Is this the sign of a failing alternator? The belt only has about 20,000 miles on it and tension seems oksy
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I have the infamous ABS light & speedo not working on my 2000 Ranger. I replaced the ABS Speed sensor on the rear diff as has been suggested on many posts, but it didn't solve the problem. Did I get a bad part or is there something else I should go after?
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so heres whats happening. My 98 ranger speedometer has not been working since I owned it (I am the second owner who got it from a grandpa) and I've replaced the vss sensor two times, got a new connector and gave that a try and still nothing. Yes I've looked for cracks in the wire or any exposed copper, I've looked through many forums and cant figure it out. At first before replacing the vss, my abs and check engine light weren't lit up until i put a new vss sensor on that i got from o'reillys, so then i got another one thinking it was just a bad sensor and still no luck. another thing is when its cold in the morning and i get in my pickup to go to work it will start working once i go over 30 and fluctuate between that and 20 but if i don't accelerate it will not bounce all over the place.
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I have a 2000 ford ranger 4.0L v6. My problem is the abs light stays on and the speedometer won't work till i hit about 35-40mph.
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Last night the speedometer started acting up, would fluctuate when the truck went over bumps and completely cut out on moderate right turns. Looked underneath as well as one can in the dark and couldn't find anything loose.
This morning I searched on here and the VSS came up numerous times as a common failure. $15 and about a half hour later I had it installed, and while I was under there I took a better look at the other connectors to double check harness connections for tightness and cleanliness. It all looked good, so I went ignition on... and the light came back. Tried clearing it by keeping the diag connector unplugged while switching ignition off, but no go. Took it for a quick spin around the parking lot, and the speedo was completely dead.
Hit up my factory ETM, found all the relevant connectors and set up a wiggle test of the VSS circuit with the DVOM on audible continuity check. Found one of the wires had chafed against the body right by the under-cab harness connector and worn almost completely through. Cut out the bad bit, soldered and heat-shrunk a patch in, and took it for a spin. Voila! No more ABS light and a working speedometer.
Also fixed the fuel gauge sending unit wire which was in the same connector grouping and chafed (but not yet broken) in a similar manner.
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I have '90 Ford Ranger 2wd standard cab long bed. A few days ago the speedo stopped working. What is the more likely cause? The gauge itself or a relay/cable. And if it is the cable/relay are they hard to remove & replace.
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1999 (built late 1998) Ranger 2.5 stick 2wd single cab. If I get much over 75 MPH the speedometer will reverse direction despite increasing speed. If I then let off the throttle completely, the speedo will jump right back up and indicate the correct speed. Continued operation without letting off the throttle to let the speedo recover will trip the ABS fault light, probably due to the erratic signal.
Disconnecting RABS module has no effect on symptoms. Speed sensor in the rear axle has been replaced already (by me) and the new unit ohm'd out good. Wiring between GEM and sensor checks out as well, good continuity (< 1 ohm) and no shorts to chassis ground. I wish I had an o'scope to take a look at the waveform, but I don't at the moment. It is on my future tool purchase list.
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I bought a 94 2.3 did a head job bought a rebuilt head and got it all back together hooked up the battery and blew the fusible link to the alternator. Did I screw something up? I have been rebuilding engines for a long time and never had this happen. Tested the alternator and the O'Reilly guy said that the Voltage regulator was shot putting out 17 amps and that is why the fusable link blew. I don't think that's right because the engine was not running I just hooked up the battery, and no I did not switch the pos and neg. I'm dumb but not that dumb. Any guesses?
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Sold my mazda and got a nice 2000 2wd Ranger XLT with a 3.0L. Today the wife I and took it to town, 10 miles on the highway there, a couple in town and 10 back, didn't notice anything unusual. However I haven't this truck long so I'm not sure what is usual.
Parked it for a few hours and when went out to change the front turn signals to LED I noticed the ABS light was on when I drove it into the garage...
I checked fluid, connections and fuses, no change.I go ahead and swapped the bulbs while letting things simmer, I've had so many of these Fords sometimes the easy fix comes to me.
I backed it out and took it down the road, right away I noticed my speedometer wasn't working, so I let off the gas, when I re-applied the pedal I got nothing, like it was in neutral.
I downshifted to second and got her down and turned around as the O/D started flashing... (so glad because I would have hated walking back), then pulled her back in the garage to check transmission fluid and recheck fuses, including the ones I forgot earlier under the hood. I added a 1/4 qt of fluid then tried a road test again, this time there was a real long pause before it upshifted hard and the CEL came on.
I pulled the codes with my scangauge and got:
P0500
P2120
P0028
And decided I better look some things up and consult the gurus here before I do anymore damage tonight. I'm guessing that I'm looking at a tranny replacement possibly, but with the ABS light and speedometer failure I'm not 100% sure what is going on here...
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