Ford Ranger / B-Series :: New Alternator Not Charging Battery?
Jun 4, 2010
Is there a fusible link from the alternator to the battery? The new alternator that I put on and got tested is not charging the battery. Was wondering if it could be a fusible link but I couldn't find it. Where it is located on a 2000 ranger?
Also, I put a DC volt meter on the negative side of the battery and the positive side of the CHARGING wire that would be connected to the alternator and got the same reading as if I put the meter on the positive of the battery.
Does this mean the fusible link is good?
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2001 ranger with 4.0, alternator failed and new alternator is also not charging, showing very little output. i've installed 2 new ones with no fix. the regulator is in the alternator, correct? I'm stumped and not sure where to go with this.
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I was messing with the battery in my 200 Ford Ranger the other day and must of arc something. I know this because after plugging my battery back up my radio fuse was blown and my alternator was killed. I replaces the radio fuse, that works now, and got a new remanufacted alternator (tested mine at Advance it was dead). I installed it and nothing changed. The battery still wasn't charging. I know the battery is good because I tested it at Advance Auto. I took the alternator back and the shop replaced it with another remanufacted one. Same thing, installed it and the battery doesn't charge.
This time I took the alt back off and had it tested at Advance. The alt was dead. So I don't know if the part store gave me TWO bad alternators or if my truck is killing them. I find it hard to believe it could kill them immediately but my automotive knowledge is not that vast. I took the second (third counting my original) dead alternator back and they gave me a brand new one no extra charge. So I don't want to put a brand new alt in my truck and it kill this one too because I doubt they will give me a fourth one. What is going on? Could it just be as simple as I got two bad eggs?
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I have a 2002 ford taurus with a basic 3.0 v6 . The alternator stopped charging the battery.
New alternator
New battery
New pcm
Still nothing, this has been causing me the biggest headache. Alternator is pcm controlled btw...
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OK I have 14.04 volts at the batteries with the engine running but my battery light is on. I had the alternator checked off the engine and on the engine and it tests good. Shows good batteries and good charging. Is there something internal to the alternator that would make the light come on even though the alternator is charging ok? Or is there something else that would make the light come on. This is on a 1999 F250 Superduty Powerstroke 7.3.
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My alternator quit charging last night. Was pretty much a sudden onset as I was driving down the road and left off the accelerator the battery light came on and lights dimmed a bit. When I stepped on the accelerator again they bat. light went off and the lights came back up.
At idle I'm at 11.77v. I've pulled the plug on the back of the alternator and I'm getting voltage on both the red and green wires that go into the plug with the engine running. Is this correct?
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Pretty much as the title says, I'm having an interesting electrical gremlin. Ford 7.3 super crew 2002 lariat LE.
I have batteries from 2015 that are losing their charge, both of them. It's like the alternator isn't charging them. Truck will struggle to start until jump started, then she's fine.
Symptoms are:
ABS light comes on when as best I can tell the batteries aren't getting charged. Not the battery indicator.
Now that the batteries are low enough, on the instrument cluster the little light the powers the mile LCD screen dims when it's not getting power (but it's fine when the batteries have charge.)
All accessories work when driving, but I haven't been able to drive a long while on the "not charging phase" to see how low they're go.
Batteries register dead (now) because they haven't gotten charge in a while.
When the alternator IS charging or "connected" I can leave the truck idle and she'll charge the batteries, truck will start just fine on the next run (no parasitic drain.)
Driving causes this to happen randomly, doesn't happen when I'm stationary, nor do I believe it CHANGES state (so if I'm idle it won't suddenly NOT charge if it was charging before.)
Narrowed down to 2 probable things.
Alternator
Bad alternator to battery cables
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I had to replace my alternator (single unit) and after installation it seems only 1 of the 2 batteries is charging when I check them while the truck is running. What check or could be the problem?
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We've got a 2012 F550 6.7 with 138k. It recently got a battery light. The batteries are right around 12 volts with the truck running or off. I also tested the output on the alternator and its not charging. I put a new alternator in it and still no charge. All the connections are tight and clean. The batteries load test ok. Where to look next?
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Took in the alternator to get it checked and they said it was good. Put it back on and it seemed like it was charging according to my volt meter (14.24-13.5 v)
Today, it's not charging. Only reads 12.2 v while running. Is there a fuse or something I need to check? Grounds? It seems intermittent.
2003 F-250 V10 6.8 liter 255,000 miles.
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for some reason my battery light flickers when im driving regular and on the highway. I have had both batteries checked and they were at 50 percent charge and both were good so therefore I assumed it was my alternator. I removed alternator had it check and it passed all test. Everything was checked at o'reilly and autozone
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Battery symbol light appeared on dash, After determining battery was good, I removed alternator and took it to have it bench tested at the parts store. It tested bad so I purchased a rebuilt alternator and had it bench tested before I left the store and it tested good. I installed it and it won't charge the battery. Tried a new battery...same thing. I tested the voltage at the battery and it reads 12.3 and the same with engine running. Engine runs until battery is drained. I removed the alternator and took it to a different store and they bench tested it good also!
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2009 Hyundai Accent w/~90k miles
The other day my car failed, showing all the signs of a bad alternator (battery light on, lights dimming/flickering, etc.).Had a mechanic look at it and it was definitely the alternator - the bracket had even broken - as well as the battery.After replacing, though, it still has a problem with charging the battery, at least on initial start.Basically, when you start the car, the battery light comes on immediately. Hit the accelerator or drive 15-20 feet and the battery light goes out and the alternator starts charging again.
The mechanic thinks it is a wiring problem and said that would cost 800+ to fix. He suggested I just live with it. Does his diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things I should look at and/or test?
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While driving at any speed my temp gauge and oil pressure gauge spike well above "H" and stay there. The red battery light sometimes flickers too. The Battery gauge is low. I replaced the terminal to then negative battery cable because It was loose. I have also replaces the alternator. I had the battery checked and it was good, it just at 45% charge. That's why I replaced the alternator. After I did that, It seemed to have fixed the issue. But after 3 days, it has come back again. Now this morning on the way to work, driving down the freeway, my speedometer jumped to 85 MPH and there was a squealing like noise coming from the engine. I am not sure if the two are related issues.
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My 99 Ranger charges intermittently. Sometimes it is just fine, sometimes the voltmeter drops and the light comes on. Might go a mile, might go all day without an issue. Alternator was replaced 2 weeks ago. Where to look? I haven't ruled out the possibility of a bad "new" alternator, but I haven't been able to get it to act up when I actually have time to start diagnosing it. Is there a relay somewhere that could be causing this?
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98 Ranger 4.0..4WD ex CabXLT Automatic..started the engine yesterday and my charge light came on and stayed on. Checked the guage and it showed no charging and then slowly began to charge and the light went out. If I rev the engine above 2,000RPM's the charge needle starts to drop but if I keep RPM's below 2,000 charging is okay. Is this the sign of a failing alternator? The belt only has about 20,000 miles on it and tension seems oksy
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1998 Ranger... I started having Speedometer/odometer problems after a power surge when my alternator went out. I knew the alternator was going bad and I tried to limp home another 5 miles rather than pay a tow bill and the alternator overcharged for a few seconds before completely dying. Since that time the only problem I am left with is my Speedometer and odometer have not worked. Scan tool says p0500 and I have replaced the ABS sensor on the differential with an OEM part but still no speedo or odo. I have checked all the fuses and relays associated multiple times. I do suspect that the RABS resistor is bad but there is no ABS light and it doesn't make sense that this one resisitor is the sle key for the whole speed control circuit. It's a manual transmission and RABS only. I swapped out the Cruise Control Servo with no luck as well. I am running out of options before having to take it to a dealer because I have to pass inspection. I have also checked and there is no power coming to 679 (GY/BK) into the instrument panel. I have also checked continuity for the rear harness to the ABS sensor and it is good.
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I bought a 94 2.3 did a head job bought a rebuilt head and got it all back together hooked up the battery and blew the fusible link to the alternator. Did I screw something up? I have been rebuilding engines for a long time and never had this happen. Tested the alternator and the O'Reilly guy said that the Voltage regulator was shot putting out 17 amps and that is why the fusable link blew. I don't think that's right because the engine was not running I just hooked up the battery, and no I did not switch the pos and neg. I'm dumb but not that dumb. Any guesses?
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Picked up a 2000 Explorer XLS for my 16 year old son to drive. It looks and runs great but it needed a new alternator. Long story short, 3 shiny new alternators from AutoZone later, it still acts like it needs a new one. If I check voltage at the alternator, while running, it's never over 12.5V. As I turn on accessories, the voltage drops down to 11.7 and doesn't come back up. When I turn it off, the battery slowly creeps back to 12.5V. The 30 amp fuse is good as is the 175amp fusible link. Shouldn't I have 14+ volts out of a brand alternator?
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1997 Explorer belonging to a friend who will show up complaining that his battery is dying. Of course, the problem is intermittent.
So far, tried 2 new alternators, (rebuilds), 3 batteries and several diagnostic sessions which have been inconclusive. What I do know is that when the charging system is not working, I still have full battery voltage on the Y/W and LG/R wires on the small wire plug at the alternator. The path from the alternator output through the megafuse to battery + does seem to be intact. Measures full battery voltage and even tried a test by using a battery booster cable to connect the alternator output directly to battery + when the system was not charging.
No change with this test. Visual inspection of the engine to firewall ground strap and the battery - to rad cradle ground wire seem to be OK. Have not had the opportunity to try the jumper cable trick to verify the alternator case to battery - circuit, (darn intermittent!). There did seem to be something intermittent related to a wiggle test in and around the power distribution fuseblock, but once again, this was inconclusive. I also was able to make the charging system fail, (once) by turning on the headlights and blower motor.Any specific failures that may cause this? Not much left to change or check!
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I have a 2003 F350 6.0. I had a flickering Battery lt on the dash last week so I replaced the Alternator. People recommended I upgrade to the 2005 140 amp alt from my stock 110. I have a single alt system. So I did, today it died on way to work. Batteries were drained. Had new alt checked and its fine. So All I have is a wiring diagram from 99-2002 but it shows the plug on the alt with 2 wires, Lt grn/red from switched ign and Org/Lt Blu which goes to batteries. Org/Lt blu has 12v but Lt green/Red has nothing with ign sw on. I did check fuse 45 in Central J box and have power there. I did notice I have no battery Lt on dash when you turn Ign sw on, and never got the Lt this morning when it died. What Im confused about is do I have a PCM? my diagrams that only go up to 2002 model show it for a 2 alt sys but not for a single alt. I should have power on Lt Grn/red with ign sw on correct? Everyone said 2005 alt was plug and play, the elec connector is now pointed down, where it was pointed up on the orig alt, look to be wired the same.
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