so this is my pops truck and its got 95k miles seems pretty clean. But it some times has a small miss fire at idle or when i put it in drive with the break on. and its just one cylinder thats missing. So iv tried new cap rotor plugs and wires but still not luck. and did a ohms test on the injectors and there all good...
View 10 RepliesSo my 99 2.5 rcsb has been stalling out under loads, particularly when the A/C is on. It's stalled when warm, cold, engaging Drive or Reverse, and it steering does it at least once a day. There's a missing elbow to a vacuum line at the driver side (looks RABS related). The truck had the CAT melt off and now it's laying in my bed with the O2 sensor, don't know if that relates.
This truck sees 100 miles a day through the mountains, 5-7 days a week. It only has 140,000 miles on it, I put 40,000 on it in the last year with no issues. The truck is very much showing age (needs almost everything), but I'd like to keep the basics going.
I have a 98 4x4 with 145k miles and 4.0 OHV. Symptoms are as follows;
Uses ALOT of oil. 1 quart per 230 miles. Burning bad in rear cylinders, some in middle cylinders, none in front cylinders. Screams intake or PCV issues to me, not rings or valves. Never any smoke, not even on startup. No significant leaks. MPG always 18-20mpg.
Slightly rough idle.
Miss under load below 2k rpm. Not a terrible miss, but you can feel it. Has never lit the CEL. I know the CEL is good.
Never loses coolant. No coolant in oil or vice versa. Haven't done compression test, but doesn't seem like they ever tell you much anyway.
This weekend I replaced all intake gaskets, plug wires, cleaned oil residue off and regapped plugs (they are 3 months old), injector orings, and PCV valve. Flushed and burped radiator.
It's too soon to tell on the oil consumption, but I thought the intake gaskets would have cured the rough idle and misfire. The idle IS much better, but still not perfect. But the low rpm load miss is actually worse now. Still no CEL. Could it be storing codes without lighting the CEL? Also, how do you clear codes on these, can you just disconnect battery, or do you have to clear them with a scanner?
I have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
View 12 Replies2000 Ranger 2.5L. Recently driving up and down road to work about a half hour in to drive the battery light will flicker especially if under a load (AC on, lights on)etc... Assuming it is the alternator/voltage regulator getting ready to FAIL. Plan on replacing alternator this weekend? What to do or check something other than replace the alternator?
View 5 Replies2001 Ford Ranger 4.0L V6... Okay so I bought my truck last September with 100K on it. Ran perfectly fine. No problems for for the first two months and then it started to misfire when at idle. Check Engine Light came on. Scanned and got a random multiple misfire code. I then changed the plugs and wires. Had to repair the threads for cylinder two. Did all that and it kind of but not really solved the problem. A few weeks later got another check engine light. Cylinder 3 misfire. Changed ignition coil. No better. Shortly thereafter I checked again whilst at work and read misfire on 3 and now 2. Currently replacing the intake manifold o-rings and cleaning out intake.
View 6 RepliesThis has been an issue for about 8 months now. I'm getting a misfire on cylinder 4. So far compression test, new gas filter, fuel injectors cleaned, spark plugs and wires replaced. coil pack replaced. Heater valve was leaking but was replaced.
View 10 RepliesI just bought a 99 Ranger 3.0 L. Truck runs great while cold. After it warms up however it has a misfire. I knew that when I bought it, and bought it cheap enough that I figured even if its down on compression or something serious, I could afford to throw a long block in it. It also is throwing a check engine light. I have not read the codes yet, waiting on a scanner I purchased. Ive got new plugs and wires for it, not yet installed. Also, have not checked compression yet. Been too busy to work on it much so far. Just curious if there is anything I can look at before the new scanner arrives.
View 8 RepliesOK, got a check engine light today when I fired up the Ranger.
Took it down and got the codes read it have a miss fire on cylinder 5. Picked up some plugs and wires, got to get those E3's out of there, but kind of think that's really not going to fix the problem. So that probably leaves the coil pack or injectors.
So what's the consensus on the best coils to use?
Also, being an 18 wheeler for more years than I care to remember, I've learned swapping just 1 injector is never the way to go. So whats the best type of injectors to get and where the best place to get them should it come to that?
Oh, it's a 2000 3.0L Flex fuel 5 speed.
2004 ford ranger edge 3.0 misfires. It does it consistently. The check engine light stays on all the time, but flashes when idling. I have put it on a code reader and it said misfire on cylinders 1 and 2 I believe. I have changed the coil pack and CPS also. It has been doing this for some time now. It doesn't have any problems stalling out or starting up just misfires bad while running. Oh, and you can also smell fuel while your idling pretty strong. And I have also replaced the plugs and wires.
View 6 RepliesMy parents 2000 Ranger has an CEL for cylinder 4 misfire, but it will clear on its own and then start up days/weeks later, is this common? Could it be an injector?
View 3 RepliesI have a misfire mystery going on in my girlfriends 00 ranger. What is going on, is there is an intermittent misfire on #4. I have an ultra gauge hooked to it, so most of the time when it does it, it will flash a pending code. A lot of the time, the pending code will go away, but sometimes it will set the PO304 code.
First I tried a tune up. New plugs and wires, air cleaner, cleaned out the throttle body. This cured it, for a short while. Then we were back to the pending code / setting code for #4.
When I pull the plug on #4 it is sometimes wet with gas. If you put a new plug in it runs fine for a while. In fact the last time we took a several 100 mile trip with it right after plug change, and it ran great. The pulled plugs re always in good condition with no burn, oil, chips or glazing. I have been using the standard autolites that are in advance auto's computer for that engine. No issues with the other 5 so I figure they re good enough.
The day after we came back I get the call... Honey its doing it again. Often to the point of having no power at all.
But it will clear itself usually, if not a new plug for #4 will cure it immediately.
So I thought something is killing this plug.... Or flooding it. SO I ran 2 cans of sea foam though it, put in a new plug and an new wire. It fixed it for a week then it did it again.
Ok I think... maybe the coil pack is bad either killing the plug or just not firing it at all? So since the pack has never been change in its nearly 300K life (to my knowledge, shes had the truck since about 60K) What the heck.... a new coil pack for the old thing.
I have not had the chance to clean the MAF but we are talking misfire on one cylinder, every now and then with no real conditions that set it off. More often than not its a pending code that you can even hear or feel and other times its a full blown miss that drags the truck down. Well for a short while until it clears up or I replace the plug.
3 cans of seafoam surely would have cleared a sticky injector. I realize it could be a bad wire to that injector but I have not had the time to tear the fiddle bits off to get to it to clean and test it... or just replace it.
Honestly Ive had a lot of cars and trucks, I don't remember ever having to replace an injector. Ive had bad wires to them but they misbehave ALL the time. This problem is so intermittent its freaky.
She says it does it mostly when its cold or not totally warmed up. Almost always, by the time the engine is hot it goes away.
And hot for this truck is over 185F, which I think its too cold to be running and the thermostat needs changed BUT she thinks cool=good. I keep telling her no, cool is often not good, the engine needs to be up to the operating temp.... which to me means 190-200. Her ranger runs between 170-180 all the time. I doubt thats causing the problem but still.... I think new thermo is in order.
My thinking is since it runs so cool all the time, the issue might be related to a spike in the temp over 180 ish, that gods forbid is opening a crack somewhere to suck air or lose compression.
And a compression test is my next step on #4 if/when it does it again. Now I have had cracked valves before, I don't recall them acting this way. After all sometimes the thing will go 100s of miles under different driving conditions and run fine. I don't think a cracked valve would be that nice.
Shes getting @18 MPG mixed driving, when it runs t runs like a bear. It always fires right up. There is no smoke, white or black. There is no water in the oil, no oil in the water. No audible exhaust leaks. No ticks knocks or oddball noises. For its age and miles almost 300K it runs perfectly.
Well until it has its intermittent issue with the misfire, that isnt bad enough to actually set the code.
2008 Ranger 3.0L. I am trying to figure my next step in diagnosing a #4 misfire. At regular speeds I really dont hear it or feel it, mostly at idle warm or cold. 3.0L with 275,000 kilometers on it , reg oil changes.The CEL is on, but not blinking. Pulled a p0304 code. I then changed out the bosch plugs I had in with ford plugs and wires. The #4 plug looked okay just bigger gap. Still got the code.
I hooked up a sparkplug light to the coilpack and did not see any missing flashes . Changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure,all within specs. Changed the oil and did not see anything in it. I read that it could be an injector but I have to remove the intake manifold to get at it. I also read to check compression. I figured if I have to take off the manifold I would put a new injector in, instead of switching them around. What is the most common cause for this code?
Misfire is on #6. Feels like a partial miss, not every revolution, and there's no noticeable miss while cruising or holding a higher rpm in neutral. It's a B3000 with 97k miles. New Motorcraft plugs, new wires, 10.7k ohms across coil terminals (1-5, 2-6, 3-4).
I've swapped plug wires between cylinders and side-to-side on the coil. I also sprayed MAF cleaner all around the intake looking for a leaky gasket. I feel pretty confident I'm looking at a bad/dirty injector or valve issue. I plan on doing a compression test next and hopefully nail it down to one or the other.
I'm asking for input on my diagnosis so far. And how difficult is it to replace the injector? Will I need to remove the upper intake?
I figured something out on my ranger that has been bugging me for a while it was a third cly misfire so I changed the plugs and it went away for a while.the po told me he had just changed the plug wires so i didn't mess with those and it was an intermittent misfire so i changed the brain box because it was 15.00 at pull and save and it had been all updated boy did it run smooth for a while then the misfire came back. So I decided to check the 3rd cylinder plug wires and found out the one that is hard to change on the drivers side was badly rusted so i borrowed one off my windstar it was a little longer but boy does it run smoother and it doesn't die all the time and chug chug all the time now i just need to change the battery. i have already changed the clutch and the tranny twice i took one out of an 88 and it fit just fine by the way the engine is a 2.3 8 plug engine with over 230,000miles on it my next project is a timing belt and a heater core won't that be fun and yes i smell the antifreeze inside and don't like the stop leak like the last person put in.
View 2 RepliesBeen awhile since I've been able to post but I've got a serious issue with my 2006 Ranger XLT 4L V6. So last night about 2 miles from home my check engine light started flashing like it was a at a rave and my engine wasn't acting right, also had the STRONG odor of raw gas, no other lights from the dash, no fluids leaking, oil was good n nothing in radiator but coolant. Was able to baby it to my current home but all my tools are in storage so had to wait to get my ODB scanner to see what's up. Scan came back as 'cylinder #3 misfire' & 'O2 sensor reading rich'.
Go cylinder #3 spark plug out and it were fouled bad. Got ride to the store and got a whole new set. Got back n got'em changed and fired ut up, idle still rough and check engine started flashing again and white cloud coming from exhaust pipe and STRONG odor of gas. Check and now have 'multiple missfire', 'cylinder #2 misfire' and 'cylinder #3 misfire'.
Shut it down go and double check ALL spark plug wires are connected and TRY to start, get about a turn n a half then starter spin. Try again and the engine won't even turn over. "Great I've seized the engine!" Was able to put a socket on the crankshaft pully and manually turn the engine over "whew didn't seize the engine", did this a couple of times and tried to start, was rough but eventually it fired up, still idling rough and again check engine light flashing, while it was running I pulled one plug wire at a time from the coilpack to see/feel the lighting and there was spark for the 3 I pulled, didn't affect engine idle.
Run codes and 'cylinder #3 misfire', so now that the engine is was warmed up I pulled out my ohm meter and started checking wire resistance. Cylinders #1, #2 were at .012, #3 was .011 and #5 was .009.
I've figured that the raw gas is due to cylinder #3 not burning and just pushing gas into the exhaust. So to the brass tacks, do I invest in a new set of wires? Or could it be the injector being stuck open and just flooding the cylinder? No when I originally pulled the #3 plug fuel did not spill out. Haven't pulled #3 again due to it being May in Arizona and had to take a break. I'm going on the assumption that the engine wouldn't start after a short run do to "hydraulic lock in cylinder #3", my manually turning the engine over cleared this and allowed the engine to start.
I am currently chasing misfire codes that started out on cylinder 5 p0305 was the first code I replaced spark plugs and wires about 200 miles the code returned checked coil with meter it was barley in spec. I have replaced coil same code only difference was a hard start cold or hot replaced injectors now hard start is fixed but logging codes for right bank is to rich and p0300 304 305 and 306 also performed compression test on right bank and readings are 155 155 and 160...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Ranger edge 3.0 flex fuel 183,000 miles. I have been having a misfire problem, only at idle, always cylinder 3. Replaced the fuel filter. Just replaced fuel pump assembly. With the old pump my fuel pressure was 49psi key on engine off, and running at idle it was 59psi with a shaky needle. With the new pump, when I turn the key on it jumps to 60psi then imedietly drops to 49psi, when the pump shuts off. Running it is at 60psi with steady needle. Koeo the pressure holds good at 49psi but does slowy decrease, about 5psi in 15 minutes. What would be causing the pressure to drop to 49psi? I am checking pressure at the fuel rail. Pressure according to the haynes manual should be 60-65psi koeo and the same while running at idle.
View 14 RepliesI have a ford Ranger with a 2.5 and 231,000 miles. I bought this truck with a misfire on #1 cylinder. drove it home and started it a couple days later and still misfire on #1 but as soon as you rev up the motor the #2 starts misfiring as well and dies. start it back up and misfire on #1, rev up the throttle and misfire on #2 also.
Here's what i have done so far. intake gaskets, plugs and wires, checked fuel pressure (good), swapped injectors on 1 and 2 with different injectors, timing belt, tensioner, swapped coils from primary to secondary no change, checked compression and all 155 and above.
I have talked to everyone i know and am getting no where. the truck can sit and run for a hour with a minor misfire on #1 but as soon as you hit the gas it starts another misfire on #2. I am thinking it is a ecm issue.
I have a 1999 ford ranger 3.0 6 cyl with 211,110 miles It started running rough without any previous warning signs. In idle its barely noticeable, once i put it in gear it gets rougher and when driving around 40 to 45 mph it roughly shakes and shimmies. Once I get past the 40 to 45 mph range it settles back down. Is there a specific issue that would cause that at that speed. When going up over a bridge the check engine light blinks.
I changed the spark plugs and new wires and it offered no success even though one of the plugs were black (to much gas). I have borrowed a diagnostic tool and got P0305 cylinder 5 misfire, I am thinking fuel injector to replace, what else should I be looking at?
My pops has a 86 ranger with a 2.9. And what its been doing is, it will start up just fine then u give it a minute and itll start to run very rough like a bad miss fire, then if he revs it up for a bit. It will clear out and then run just fine until he starts it up again and it seems to do it more the colder it gets and it smells very rich. Iv checked the injectors and there fine, what other things could it be ? O2 sensors oorrr
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