Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Metal Tinging Sound From Front End
Sep 29, 2015
I'm getting a high toned metal tinging sound (ting ting ting ting) from the front wheel that gets faster as I increase speed.
Shop said it's tire noise, but it's a distinctive metal sound like something rotating is hitting a thin piece of metal. It's quite loud, but I eventually don't hear it over 35mph because the vehicle moving is louder.
Eventually, around 35mph it's almost a constant tinging noise because I'm going fast.
2007 Level II, 5-speed.
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There is a clunking sound and feel from the front end of my 2007 Ranger FX4 when in 4 wheel drive. This happens sometimes but not always on engaging or disengaging 4 wheel drive, as well as sporadically while driving along. I took it back to Ford on warranty with this problem last year, and after a few attempts I had them admit that something was wrong and they finally diagnosed that it was the front drive shaft that was binding where it leaves the transfer case, this was replaced. I have now put maybe 50km (max) on in 4 wheel drive and the problem is back, I don't think the problem was ever fixed.
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2004 6.0 160K....
I have a very hard to hear tinging sound that emanates from near the right bank--possibly more audible toward the front of the motor. It is very hard to hear but it is there. it is higher pitch than the "diesel" sound, and much lower in volume. I had thought it was my lower alternator (dual alternator setup), but I ran it without the lower belt and the sound is still there.
I think the sound tings at a faster rate with RPM increase, but in truth, I am not certain, but it is drowned out by engine noise. Using the base engine test to spin the engine over I do not hear it, BUT it might also be that the engine doesn't spin over fast enough. During the test the engine spins fast and smooth. I did the test with a warm motor.
I have AE software and have a good balance (after just changing injector #8). I know that cylinder 1 (passenger side) is after #8 in firing sequence so I was kind of hoping that the noise was coming from a max'd out injector trying to compensate for the bad #8. However, after installing the new #8 injector the engine idles smoothly with a straight-line contribution balance---and the right bank noise is still there.
Could it just be an injector making noise that will eventually fail?
Could it be a cracked rocker or a bend pushrod?
Could it be something else...?
Is there anyway to figure this out without pulling the right side valve cover? I guess I've decided this is the next step, but I'm looking for any thoughts before I commit to that. I've done things like this in the past and my luck says I'd pull the cover and not find a smoking gun.
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The rear axle in my dads 1998 ford ranger has been vibrating for quite a while so I pulled the cover today and found that the fluid was full of metal shavings, it was glittering. I also found this metal chunk in the differential so my mechanical experience tells me this is not a good thing. I am taking it apart tomorrow any tips or do's or don't? Also, what this metal chunk is and what that knurled up end is??
Door tag told me it was a 7.5 open 4:10 axle.
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Vanos makes rattling sound. When the car is running it makes a noise in the vanos area as if the chain is loose its kind of like a metal sound the car don't idle roughly the rpm needle is steady don't seem like I am loosing power. do all of them make that noise or this is something i should be concerned with.
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I thought i heard this yesterday when i left work but i was tired and said its in my head, THEN i go to leave right now and sure enough its a real sound, you can hear it very well through the front grill and then if you turn the volume up you can hear a ticking sound ever half a second or so, it also speeds up when i was pulling on the throttle cable. And after the truck fully warms up it goes away.......
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I replace my brake pads and rotors in the fall of 2015 with EBC parts. Now almost 13,000 miles later, I started hearing grinding and metal-on-metal contact in the front. So I went out and got PowerStop pads to replace the EBC (EBC had way too much brake dust). I took off the front wheels and noticed that the DF pads had about 1/32 left on them, ok I guess its time to change them out. Onto the PF pads, I find that there is almost no material left, in fact I could scrap off what was left of the material. I decided to do a rotation while I am at it and noticed that the rear brake pads on both sides look like I never used them!! Is it really that possible to have 2 stuck calipers, both on the rear at the same time?
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What we have is a 2011 F-350 with the ambulance package (obviously) and it has started making a very annoying sound from the front end. It has been into two different Ford Dealerships and they have not been able to remedy this issue. What happens is, when we are backing and turning, the front end makes a bad metal on metal grinding noise. When going straight down the road no issue just turning while backing. I know this is an ambulance and has the ambulance package but I think from the cab forward should just be all ford right?
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I have a loose, binding, metal on metal sound on my steering wheel shaft. I have removed the steering wheel, replaced the clockspring, because when I removed wheel clockspring was in pieces and I thought that might be the issue. Guess not, because I'm still having problem. Other than having to remove or replace the whole steering column...
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I have 1999 F350 7.3 Crew Cab 4WD. I took it on a 4 hours trip towing a trailer to haul a small tractor on it. after 3 hours of driving, I started hearing grinding and metal chewing sound coming from the front axle or close the wheel hubs. It was awful, terrible, ... you name it!!! I had to continue or I will lose the tractor I paid for already. The sound was coming for 1-2 seconds each 500 feet or so. It never stopped or changed. I pulled over to see what's going on and found the following:
1. Left shock is leaking badly
2. Right locking hub is gone (not sure if the truck had one before). I bought this truck last year, but I never had to use 4x4 and I know the 4x4 motor by the transfer case is missing and the nipple on the transfer case is set to the 2wd position so the front drive-shaft does not turn.
I took the front shock off and continued to drive without it, the noise did not go away.
I pulled over again and this time I noticed that the dust cover on each end of the front axle is missing too. I have never worked on these axles before, but I jacked one side, and sure enough, gear oil was leaking from the other side. I took the plug off the front differential and stuck my finger in it. I felt a creamy brown-greenish stuff in the differential. The consistency is like mayonnaise or thin peanut butter. I put the plug back on and went to pick up the tractor because I did not want to miss it fooling around with the truck on the highway.
The truck made it there and back (almost 5 hours total after the break down). The sound never stopped every 500 to 1000 ft.
After getting home safely, I took the other locking hub off, and took it for a test drive. I did not hear the noise, but now my right brakes are locking.
I took of the wheels and saw that the retaining snap ring (C clip) for the front axle on the right side came off by hand. I took the washers behind it off. Took the calipers and brackets off. I have never done front axle rebuild. I am not sure what has been damaged and what's still good.
Right of the bat, I know, at least, I need 2 shocks, one brake caliper and pads.
My questions are:
1. Is it possible to take the front axles off on both sides and make it 2wd for now until I have the money to rebuild the axle?
2. Could I use the same hubs? or they are most likely damaged and how to tell?
3. How to tell if the differential is damaged/needs rebuilding?
4. How to tell if the axles/spindles are damaged?
5. Is there a step by step tutorial to rebuild the axle with all seals, bearings, ...etc? How hard is the job for a hobbyist? I do most of my repairs myself, and I was lucky at 36 years old, I never had to rebuild a differential.
6. What else I might have damaged in the process of driving it that long with the noise? How do I tell if I did?
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I have encountered a strange noise from my car. The sound is similar to a metal rotating sound. It may be coming from the front right wheel.
I cannot hear it on the freeway. I would say that I can hear it quite frequently at slower speeds. Sometimes It would go away momentarily.
I tried turning the wheel left to right to see if that had an effect at slower/higher speeds, doesn't seem related, could be wrong. Currently I am thinking it could be my wheel bearing...
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I have a 2007 hyundai sonata, this car is my daily driver. I put 180 miles on it a day around trip. Currently has 180,200 miles on it. Last Friday on my trip home when i turned right I heard a metal on metal sound. I slowed down went straight and it went away. Talked to a few people and I think it may be the wheel bearing. Even if I hit a road reflector it starts up. It's the front left wheel. Get on the breaks it goes away.
So my question is... Wheel bearing??? And can I replace the whole hub and fix the problem or do I have to try and press the bearing out?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Solara 4 cyl. auto. transmission. I recently had the head replaced. Now it is making a metal on metal sound near the drivers side of the engine. It makes the sound during idle, when I change gears, and the sound increases when I rev the engine. What could it be?
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My 2011 2.4l Sonata made a metal on metal sound suddenly the other day. About 4 days ago, I drove about 2 hours away from where I live, Mostly highway, about 80mph to a go kart race. Got out of the car for a while and came back in and was pulling away to run the store and as i started to approach the first stop sign maybe 500-600 ft from where i was parked, i heard a bad metal on metal sound, came to a complete stop at the sign and it stopped. Went back to the race after driving to the store about 5 miles away.
Got in the car to leave and same thing, just to the stop sign 500-600ft away. Drove home like i said mostly highway, and didn't hear a thing. Today, about 4 days later, I drove to Chicago O'hare airport, about 30min away, and it was fine the whole way there. However on the way back, after about 20-25min, I heard it again. So I came to complete stop as I was forced to by a traffic light as I was taking my exit off the highway, and It started making that sound again. So i came to a complete stop at the light and started moving again when it turned green and couldn't heard a thing.
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At 75K my passenger side rear brakes were making metal on metal sound. I was really surprised as I have always learned that the front brakes take 80% of load and they always go out before the backs. So I took the wheel off and sure enough the pads were metal on metal. Changed everything out. (new rotors). I then went over to the driver side rear brake. Looks brand new. The pistons were barely out. I figured this caliper is bad. (I haven't change yet)
When I drive I can hear a very faint metal on metal sound when I brake. VERY FAINT. So with 75K miles on I figure the front brakes are due. Today I took the wheels off and inspected them. Tons of pad left on both of them. If I didn't know better I would say a brake job had been done very recently. (I've owned the car new so I know they have not had a brake job) However after reading many articles on this site I found a thread where one user said he was changing his front brakes for the first time with 110K on them and the pads still had 10K left in them. So the fact that my front pads are still pristine at 75K may not be a big deal (or not as big as I thought. Also I am not hard on brakes.)
However I'm not sure what is going on. Why would the passenger rear brake be metal on metal at 75K and the three other pads are like new. Is the passenger rear the only one working (or working much harder than the others) meaning the other three are bad? Or is the rear passenger bad and the other three are good? I have a working knowledge of cars but I am by no means a mechanic.
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I picked my R up three weeks ago tomorrow. I took it in this morning because there has been brake noise from day one. The noise was a scraping, metal on metal sound that diminished a fair amount when the brakes were warm. I only got a very brief conversation with the service agent at the dealership this afternoon, and all he told me is that they had to order in new brakes. I don't know if it's just pads, or calipers or rotors or the whole deal! I'll get the whole scoop tomorrow.
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I have got this noise which sounds like a light skimming of metal on metal. It sounds like a roller (airport baggage) spinning. It can be heard mostly when driving next to a wall or past parked cars. I suspect it being the bearing in either the water pump, idler pulley or even alternator. The car has 330000 kms but it is serviced regularly in which all fluids have been changed over time. I just want to drive through a tunnel and not hear any non harmonic sounds coming from the front.
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe AWD Limited. 90,000 miles. I have a strange sound I need identifying. At first I thought the sound was my AC depressurizing, but it's not that. It sounds similar, but has a faint metal-on-metal jingle sound to it, like something is rubbing or something is rotating and intermittently hitting something just slightly. The mechanic went in to change the water pump because it was leaking, and he thought that the water pump when rotating was rubbing because the rubber ring/gasket was failing, therefore making that sound. Not it. Tired rotated and new brake pads put on. Still there. To be clear, the mechanic never said he heard the sound. I just told him about it.
I can hear the sound when I turn the car on and put it in reverse start backing up. I can hear it when I let off the brake (driving and in park), which lead me to believe that it could have been the pressure in the Master Cylinder or ABS. I don't know now because it does it intermittently when I am driving down the road with no brake applied. When I park, I put the car in Park, get off the brake and just listen. And I can hear it. When it is in park it is more rhythmic, with two or three second breaks in between. kshhh kshhh kshhh kshhh. (I hope you like my poor attempts at sound effects.)
Is it the ABS system? Don't tell me it's transmission related. I just bought this car (used at 87,000 miles) and already had the struts done, the water pump and drive belt done. For what it's worth, this car's passenger and back seats vibrate at 60+. Not sure if that has anything to do with this sound, but thought I would mention it. New struts and tire rotation did nothing.
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I own a 2010 Toyota Prius that recently developed a metal-on-metal whining scraping sound when moving. It does not make sound when the vehicle is stationary, and it's intermittent - which makes me discount the rock-in-disc-rotor idea (not eliminate it, mind you). It's quite loud when it occurs, able to hear it over the stereo. Luckily I was near work at the time, so I went there - but the shop can't even look at it until Monday evening - so I am a bit panicked.
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I had to replace the tie rods in my mazda b2300 and the mechanic also replaced the brake pads.
Now when I drive, I can hear the pump for the brake fluid going on and off when I'm not even using the brakes and the ABS goes on a lot too.
He tried resetting the computer by unplugging the battery for a bit but it's still doing it.
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I recently bought a 91 Ranger 4wd for my son. The guy I bought it from put new manual lock outs on it. every time I take the tire off on either side the hub comes with it! Is there a clip or retainer missing? If so what and where can I get one?
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