Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Loud Speed Dependent Noise - Bad Wheel Bearing?
Jun 3, 2010
I have an 01 Ranger 4x4 that recently started to make a loud speed dependent noise from the drivers side front wheel, a quick jab to the right on the steering wheel and it stops, straiten out and it comes back...since I know my shocks are worn and have some cupping on the front tires my first thought was tire noise so I moved the back tire which is evenly worn to the front and no change, next I removed the tire and checked everything visually.
All seems ok, the brake does not seem to be dragging and there is no evidence of a cv problem, everything seems tight, so I'm guessing the problem is a bad wheel bearing? If I grab the tire at 12 and 6 there seems to be excessive movement from top to bottom, there should be none right? If memory serves any movement is indicative of bad wheel bearings? I guess I'm looking for some vindication before getting a new hub?
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So my ranger was having a textbook wheel-bearing noise at around 50mph....when I turned to the right the noise went away implicating a passenger side wheel bearing.
So I replaced both of the hub bearings on the pass side and noticed that the front axle shaft u-joint right behind the spindle was really bad and was going to change it but couldn't get the spindle off so I said screw it.
Took it for a drive and the noise is still there. Could a worn u-joint possible replicate a wheel bearing noise? I am used to them making a clicking/popping noise while turning when they're bad, but not a whirring sound.
1993 ranger 4x4 manual locking hubs.
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The T/O bearing makes a high pitch squeal until you put light pressure on clutch then it will go away. Does this thing have a preload on bearing at all times or should there be free play like in the old days??
Another thing that has me wondering is when I push clutch all the way in it actually puts a load on the engine. Having T/O bearing so bad it puts a load on the engine?
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My speed control has not worked in years and I do not use them any more any way. I want to remove the control area on each side of the steering wheel, the covers are all messed up so I would like to make it look like it came without them. Can I do this and if so how?
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My girlfriend and I just bought a 2011 a few weeks ago. We test drove it a couple times ourselves, and had our mechanic take a look at it and drive it also. Everything looked and sounded good. Not sure how much it matters, but it's a Certified Used as well.
A couple days ago, returning from a 45-minute drive which included some short stretches of gravel road, I noticed an oscillating sound. It's definitely not a noise that was there when we bought the car. Unfortunately, my cell is apparently bad at capturing audio, so hopefully my description will be enough.
The noise is very faint, almost inaudible, at low speeds. Between 30 and 35 mph it gets much louder, peaking at about 33. There's some vibration through the accelerator pedal also. Above 35, it fades pretty quickly and I can't really hear it at 50. The sound itself is 3 beats on, 1 beat off, about every second. There's a slight difference in pitch between each beat.
If that isn't enough to go on, let me know and I'll give the recording another shot and upload it if the noise is audible.
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I have a Mk6 GTI 2010 and recently there has been some noise coming from the rear of the car and the noise changes with speed and sounds similar to a wheel bearing.. So I jacked up the rear and found that there was play in the passenger rear wheel.. The bolt holding the hub together was tight..
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1997 328i 5sp 295k miles
Speed-dependent road noise, mildly pulsating roar as though I were driving a truck, just keeps getting louder as the weeks go by. Completely independent of load. Accelerating, decelerating, coasting, disengaging clutch, has no affect on volume or pitch of noise. Volume and pitch increases with speed. At 20 mph it is noticeable. At 80 mph it is quite annoying. Seems completely independent of road surface.
Rear wheel bearings were replaced about 50k miles ago, and they feel fine.
Front wheel bearings feel perfectly tight.
Replaced all four tires with new Michelin Defenders. That eliminated a low speed whomp-whomp--whomp that turned out to be a cord separation in the front left tire, but otherwise had negligible impact on the road noise.
Changed fluid in transmission and rear end. No change at all in the noise.
I thought that the only thing that would be speed-dependent but load independent would be the driveshaft carrier bearing. I bought a new one, but when I put the car up and exposed the driveshaft, I found that the rear U-joint was bad. Didn't figure the U-joint was my noise, as that would be sensitive to load, but needed to fix it. U-joints are not serviceable so I ordered rebuilt driveshaft which came with a new carrier bearing. Put that in today. Absolutely no change in the noise.
Tranny tail shaft bearing felt tight when I was replacing driveshaft, and no sign of oil leak from there.
All four rear CV joints feel tight, and in any event, noise from those would be load-dependent.
I have been searching the web, and rear shock mounts are often mentioned as possible suspects for road noise, but people rarely post what their problem turned out to be, and I would think that noise from failed shock mounts would be very road surface dependent.
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This is probably a dumb question but what is going on here:
YouTube.....
This is with the AC running. That wheel spin and loud click (it's a lot louder in person) is starting to annoying me. When I am sitting in traffic or at lights and I have the AC running the noise is very noticible in the cab. If the AC is off the idle settles down and the click goes away. So what causes this - AC compressor going out? It needs lube? Freon?
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I have a really loud whining kind of noise found that its the wheel seal rubbing on the inner part of the wheel bearing. I was just curious if its safe to drive with the spindle removed from the axle?
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I took my 2007 (manual!) Honda Civic LX to a local car shop last Friday because it wanted its oil change, oil filter change, tire rotation, and spark plugs etc. checked. When I got the car back, I drove it around for a little while and noticed a noise that is periodic and speed-dependent -- as in, the frequency goes up when I am going faster and slows down when I am going slower.
I've since checked the air pressure and while one tire was a little low, the tires are all at the right pressure now, and the noise hasn't gone away. I also feel like there is more vibration in the steering wheel now than there used to be. I think the sound is coming from the front driver's side, but I'm not sure about that.
Obviously I should take it to the car shop and give the guys the what for, right? But what should I be asking them about? What could have happened? It also happens to be the case that on the 4th of July, someone backed into the front of my car with a moving truck and a couple of parts on the front of the car needed to be replaced. But I had
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I have a rear wheel bearing type of noise that appears to come from the rear. My vehicle is front wheel drive and has 135K miles.
I checked the rear wheel bearing/hub assys on both sides and they had no play but I changed them anyway. Noise did not change at all. Rear tires have normal wear, no cupping or anything. Noise gets louder with increasing speed up to a point and then remains a constant level.
My next thought is to check the front wheel bearings/cv joints.
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Ok I have a 1998 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L automatic 4X4 with A/C my problem is i just had the timing chain,water pump, thermostat, upper and lower hoses, and front crank seal replaced. I got it back and right away noticed a thumping noise at idle only... My gauge was always steady at the same spot it had always been. but the thumping was loud when idling. Now the sound seems to have moved farther towards the engine instead of the dash and tonight when i popped the hood noticed the top hose was collapsed and i could feel no pressure. the thumping noise seems to be coming from the area of the thermostat. I have no oil in the coolant and no coolant in my oil! I tried to get the air bubble or pocket out if thats what is the problem by running the engine till hot with the radiator cap off but it made just a huge mess. it did seem to push a huge air pocket out but still does the loud thumping. This all started the day i got it back from the mechanic so I am assuming its an air pocket. I planned on changing the thermostat tomorrow.
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When I make a left turn I have a horrible grinding noise. Only when I turn left and at any speed.
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MY 2001 Edge 4.0 5 speed auto has a noise while accelerating. It happens only when truck is first run and disappears after warming up after a few miles. It just turned 1500 miles. Can't figure out if it is from trans or possibly a speedo cable. It goes to the dealer next week.
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I have a 2003 ford ranger xlt 4.0L and here recently my ac compressor has been making a loud click noise engaging even though i am not using heat or AC, so when it engages the rpms drop and almost wants to stall and it does this in about 10-15 sec. intervals, but when I am driving it acts fine. What is going on here, I recently had a vacuum leak and i found it and fixed it, and now this issue just started.
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Odd thing on the 97' Ranger that showed up today. I was backing out of the spot at the local Shell station, (on an incline) and the pedal went to the floor. Never happened before. I pumped the brakes a few times, and they came back. On down the street, slowing for the stop sign, pedal went to the floor again.
Not throwing codes, fluid levels are good, only seems to happen at lower speeds/idle. Sometimes pumping brings the brakes back, sometimes they come back all of a sudden.
I can hear a "sucking" kind of noise coming from where the pedal connects to the booster, up under the dash. I looked at it, and nothing *appears* to be broken.
It almost feels like the pads are against the discs, and the pistons/calipers have to reach for them before the brakes apply. (If that makes any sense)
There should be about 50% of life left on the pads, but i haven't pulled the fronts wheels yet to look.
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93 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4WD.....
Putting in a new clutch and clutch release bearing, and am wondering if I need to put the retaining ring in that came with the new clutch release bearing? When I took off the old release bearing, a ring did come off from somewhere, but I did not see where it was because it was so dirty.
The reason I ask is because my Haynes manual did not even mention a ring, so I was surprised to see one come off. And my manual does not say to reinstall the ring when installing the release bearing. I did get a newer Haynes manual at the library and looked through a bunch of Chilton, etc manuals.
The newer Haynes manual says to remove the retaining ring on 97 and newer models, but says nothing about putting it back in when reinstalling. So, I am not certain if I need to put a new retaining ring in with the new release bearing.
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While in the locked position, the steering wheel was purposely jerked hard to disable the mechanism on a 1996 Ranger. Now the truck will not steer easily or smoothly and a popping noise is evident when turning. I'm not concerned about having the wheel lock, but would like to be able to return driveability to normal.
The same guy who caused this damage also damaged the ignition. No key is needed to turn the switch now.
I'm lost as to how the steering locking mechanism works and wondering if I need to tear apart the column or if maybe there is a locking pin accessible that needs to be removed to regain driveability.
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I am driving a 95 ranger xlt extended cab with a 3.0 two wheel drive with an automatic transmission. the two piece drive shaft with the carrier bearing went bad at the bearing. i separate the u-joint just after the bearing and was going to remove the nut holding the bearing housing together but cannot get the nut off. now i'm also finding out that i need a bearing puller to remove the damaged bearing from the 1st drive shaft.
Its turning into something i may not be able to finish. i saw on line an idea where a guy replaced the 2 piece shaft with a one piece. he states that a 1 piece drive shaft, 1998 or newer would work and no need for this bearing. you have to remove the cross member. it sound easier than what i'm trying to do. i looked at some old posts and galleries but did not see an article. here is a link to his website: How-To: Swapping a 2-Piece Drive Shaft for a 1-Piece in a 1983-1997 Ford Ranger
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My 96 ranger with a 5 spd manual and two piece drive line has the center carrier bearing going out (squeals,vibrates,etc.) I got the part no. from the dealer but they are obsolete. is there a one piece drive line i could put in and what would that take to do.i remember a thread on it somewhere but cannot find it in the search. i would prefer not to use aftermarket because they only have a one year warranty.
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I noticed a strange vibration in the 83 Ranger I own, it has the 2.3 and a 4 speed. When getting up to speed around 35MPH it would start vibrating, and the speedometer needle would bounce around and read slower than it was actually moving. This would start in 3rd gear, and continue thru 4th unless I let off the gas while it was in gear, then it stopped and worked normally. I put a grease seal in the tail section when I first got the truck, and when I pulled the driveshaft again today the seal was mangled and bent, plus there are metal particles around the main shaft where the seal goes. I figure the tail shaft bearing is shot, and I also found damage to the yolk with the U-joint, the shaft has a worn spot about 1/3rd the way around.
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