Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Jerking In The 3rd Gear And Up When Giving Gas
Mar 11, 2014
I have a 2000 ranger 4x4 4.0l ... It starts jerking in the 3rd gear and up and it gets worse as the gears changes... If it in higher rpm it doesn't do it as much I don't know what could be the problem it's been a recurring problem...
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I'm having problems starting my truck. The second it catches, it just dies right away. It doesn't stay running even if I keep giving it throttle. Although when I did try to start it 5-10 times the other day, one of those times, it started and stayed on for about 5 seconds then died again. What to check? I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this vehicle, but I would consider myself mechanically inclined since I've worked with newer cars and smaller engines before.
Also I don't know if this might be related, but I recently changed the oil & oil filter in the truck (after not having changed it for a long time).... and it was a castrol full synthetic high mileage oil. It ran and shifted a lot better for about a week before this starting problem happened. I checked the oil level and it's still perfect so I know it's not leaking oil or anything like that. Just wanted to throw this in there just in case.
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My 94 ranger, 3.0 v6 began to sputter and jerk about a month ago. It does this when ever give more then lite throttle up until about 3000 rpm. I have replaced plugs, wires, coil and cleaned the air flow sensor. I feel like this has worked a little but the problem is still definitely present. When I hit 3k rpm if feels lie the truck begins to run correctly and almost like it had a power ban much like a dirtbike, but again it's just the truck running correct.. And above 3k rpm it runs great... and every so often the problem will completely disappear for 5 minutes or so, then come right back.
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I've got a 2003 Ranger 2.3L DOHC, 5 speed, 2WD. It has a check engine light with codes :
P0316-Engine Misfire Detected On Startup
P0704-Clutch Switch Input Circuit Fault
P2195-O2 Sensor Excess Lean Signal Bank 1-Sensor 1
P0171-System Too Lean (Bank 1)
The truck runs fine when coasting or accelerating but when holding a steady light throttle to maintain speed the truck starts bucking and jerking. It's doesn't feel like a misfire, more like a fuel cut out condition. When this happens and you come to a stop, you can smell that the exhaust is very rich coming out of the tailpipe. I've already replaced the upstream O2 sensor and I did a tune up about 15k ago. I'm thinking fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. I doubt if this is related, but on start up (more so on a cold start up) the A/C compressor clutch kicks in and out 3-5 times and makes a terrible racket.
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I have a 2000 ranger 4.0l 4x4 automatic transmission 5r55e. When I put it in drive I don't have any problems except in do it starts jerking when I give gas. When I put it in reverse I can move but as soon as I give gas it stalls the engine tranny was sitting in another truck swapped it with mine I changed the filter and 5 1/2 quart of oil.
I when to a transmission shop plugged it inn no codes and he said he would changes all solenoid and valve body gasket but he's not sure what is the problem. So I started to take out valve body and notice the oil is darkish red and was wondering if it was normal or not and if I'm taking that valve body out for nothing or should still go ahead ...
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I bought a 96 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab 4.0 on the 21st and the gear shifter doesn't go into 1st gear but changes to the other ones(see pic below) and was wondering if it's a easy fix.
Also I have a oil drip(at least it looks like oil to me) and I can't figure out where it's coming from because it's a small drip and the oil dipstick and tranny dipstick both show full and I can't figure out where the drip is coming from and I only noticed a dip on a metallic tank but don't know what that is either but check out the pic below to see the drip I circled.
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ive been experiancing an issue with my trucks shifting. it shifts smoothly but doesnt like shift into 5th, as im driving it stays in 4th longer than necessary. my thought was that it was tied to a shift sensor, what do you think?
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I have a 1998 ford ranger and it will not disengage out of 3 gear. The truck still starts but if you let of the cutch. Of course, It stalls. I'm doing the work myself but where I should start looking.
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2003. Ranger xlt with the 4.0.... So I just bought this truck and was informed that the vacuum might not be functioning correctly. And here's the symptoms. It idles a little rough, nothing major. When I put the truck into gear either drive or reverse, it stalls out almost every time unless I give it some gas and hold the brake. But after that I could drive it all day with out a problem, as long as I don't put it into park. And last it starts a little hard. But the damn thing runs great while driving it. It's still very snappy even having high miles.
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I have a 1999 ford ranger 2.5L. When I turn the key to the ON position, right before the ignition turn, everything comes on like it's supposed too. However, if i try to change into reverse, the truck will start without me even touching the key. Also, if I start it using the key and try to go into reverse, the starter engages and makes the all to familiar grinding sound. I am completely stumped.
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Not only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
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i have a 1999 mazda troy lee b3000. The truck has a 3.0 flex fuel and 4r44e and when you go to drive it. turn the key engine fires up but the trans won't shift into gear. Here is the back story.Bought the truck brand new in 99 I'm the original owner it was a daily driver up until 2 years ago. the truck has over 300k miles and still ran great but the camshaft was starting to go. I was gona replace the cam but came across a killer deal on a new engine. picked up another 3.0 flex fuel with 50k miles. drove the truck into my garage removed the old engine installed the new engine. got in the truck turned the key and the new engine roared to life.
I went to put the truck into gear so i could get it out of the garage and go for a test drive and nothing. went to put it in drive and again nothing. no matter what gear its put in it doesn't move at this point i was confused and decided to quit for the night. That was in 2011 its now 2013 the truck has just sat there sense then. I've tried anything and everything even went as far as swapping transmissions and computers with no luck. I took the trans apart I don't know how many times can't find anything wrong with it.
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My gf's dad said I could have his 07 Ranger 4.0 2wd with 230K on the clock if I fix the tranny 5R55E. One day he was driving home and all of a sudden had no drive. The tranny will run thru drive, neutral and reverse, but has no drive to it. Engine revs with nothing to show.
Tranny fluid was very dark and pan had nothing but the usual "metal flour" in it. I stopped there, did not pull the filter or anything else.
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I have a 98 XLT 4.0, auto trans with 109K miles and when it's really hot outside and it's been driven when I start back up and put it into drive it sometimes takes a while to go into gear. A friend says the transmission fluid doesn't look too good and it smells. Obviously I have a transmission problem but my question is would changing the fluid do any good at all? Since the tranny is bad what harm could it do? The fluid was never changed previously.
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Brother in law has the above truck with shifting problem. On a cold start, pulling out of the driveway, it will get to about 3-4000 rpm and will slam into gear. Sometimes its worse than others, but is consistant. Once it warms up, the problem goes away for the most part.
I've researched a little online and have found a few people mention the 1-2 shift accumulator (servo...?) and was wondering if any of you have ran into this or have replaced one on the A4LD.
And if you have, which servo is the 1-2 shift? I think there are 6 of the little suckers in there. Anyway, all i've done so far is fluid and filter. Old fluid looked/smelled fine.
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I have a 1987 ford ranger 4x4 2.9l v6 but my transmission slips out of gear and its auto im not sure why but ive been told im missing a over drive gear is this a possibility or what???
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It's a 4 cylinder 5 speed, and once or twice a day when the light turns green and I go to put it in low gear, it just doesn't want to go into gear easy. It's like the syncro isn't happy or something. The clutch is depressed all the way and not dragging.
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I have a 1995 ford v6 4.0L with a 4R55E transmission, and 3.27 Non-LS axle. So Im guess the 2H (high range) is the 3.27 Gear ratio. But in 4L (low range) whats the ratio?
And pew lol this rangers 4wheel drive is a beast went through a crap load of mud yesterday which also brought me up to the question should i be using 4L or 4H for that?
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I noticed recently that when my Ranger is sitting idle in gear (drive or reverse) it's making a high pitch ringing noise. It doesn't do it in Park or neutral. Just had the truck inspected last week so it's driving OK. I don't think it does it while I'm moving with the RPMs up, but maybe the sound of the engine is masking it, I don't know. Anyway, what this could be? Something with the transmission since it only does it in drive and reverse? It doesn't do it all the time but a lot of the time.
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I just got a 99 2.5 rwd auto and it shakes when it's at idle in gear. I'm pretty sure its because the AC pulley is engaging drawing power. I was thinking about turning the idle screw up a blonde-one because when I hold the brake and give it slight gas it goes away.
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My buddy has a 97 Ranger 4X4 Automatic. The gear selector has become out of adjustment. To get the truck started you have to pull up on it (the gear selector) and it is getting worse by the drive. I think it is going to leave him stranded in the near future if it is not bought back in to adjustment.
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