Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Instrument Cluster Bulb Sometimes Does Not Came On When Turn Lights On
Mar 6, 2017
One of my bulbs sometimes doesn't come on when I turn my lights on. I actually have to hit the dashboard to get it to come on. Does it randomly. Ironically, it's been doing this ever since I pulled the instrument cluster out to change a different bulb. I don't know if I did something when taking it out or putting it back in. Anyway, what I can check to see why it's doing this? It's just one bulb that illuminates the right portion of the tachometer.
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I have 87 Ford Ranger. 2.9L 4x4. Before any tips, I have checked the fuses, I have changed the Switch for the lights and the instrument cluster. Still no luck. I don't know if there is something wrong with the wiring. But what I was plan on doing is finding out on one of the Wiring Harnesses on the back of the Cluster which wire turns on the back lights on the cluster. Everything else on the cluster works (Gauges, Highbeam indicator, all the warning sign lights). What wires are what on the wiring harnesses. I was going to just run the wire to its own switch.
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The parking brake instrument cluster lamp is enabled by a small switch at the foot operated park brake mechanism. The switch is attached to chassis electrical ground. The switch has one wire attached to it. So when the switch is enabled it connects chassis ground to the wire therein turning on the cluster lamp. With the wire disconnected from the switch the lamp stays on. This tells me the wire is grounded somewhere. Brilliant deduction eh?
So here's my question. How/where that wire is routed? I lose sight of it approx. 2-inches from the switch where it disappears behind the brake mechanism mounting bracket. I plan to unbolt that bracket to see if that might be where the wire is being shorted to ground. But if it's not pinched there, where do I go from there?
(2001 Ranger, 4liter-2wd)
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I have a 1996 ford ranger 2.3L automatic. I need to replace the instrument cluster. I can remove all the plugs from the rear of the cluster except 1 black wire I assume is the speedo cable. It runs from the rear of the cluster down underneath the dashboard. How to remove this cable so I can replace the entire cluster?
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I just finished replacing the instrument panel light bulbs on my 1997 Ranger XL, 2.3L, 2WD pickup. I wanted to share how I did this. First of all, if you never have done this before, go slow and take your time removing the dash panels as they are plastic molding and break easily. Allow yourself about an hour to complete the task. You will need smaller sized hand sockets to remove the screws. The very first thing you should do is remove the negative battery cable from the battery. This way you will not risk shorting out anything electrical as well as possibly triggering the airbag in the steering wheel column.
The key piece in starting the process is to remove the radio first and then central console panel that houses the radio. It pops out very easily by gently prying it out in the four corners. Once you get that piece out remove the screws the support the lower knee panel. In order to get that piece off you will have to remove the two screws the hold the hood release lever in place. Get under the dashboard and look up as you lay looking upward near the brake pedal. Pull the hood release lever and you will see the two gold screws. Remove them. This will free up the panel on the under side. The top side of the panel will pop out if you pry it gently on the top two corners.
Next, you will see a metal panel underneath the knee panel. Remove this metal panel as well. Now you will be able to remove the instrument cluster panel piece. There are some visible screws holding this in place, remove them and gently pry the cluster panel out. Once the cluster panel cover is out you will have to actually remove the gauge cluster itself by removing the the four screw bolts that secure it in place. After the screws are out, gently work it out of the dash slowly as you will need to disconnect three electric plug harnesses in the back.
After it is unplugged and out, on the backside of the instrument cluster you will see some round, black colored thumb screw bulb housings that house the light bulb. Just twist them and turn making sure to go in the right direction. Feel it out for the direction, I cannot remember which way it turns. The bulb housings are labeled "ILL" on the circuit overlay. I recommend you replace all the bulbs as you might not want to have to do this again in the near future. Once all the bulbs are tightly seated and installed just reverse the above process for installation. This is a fairly easy job and like I said it takes about an hour. Make sure you test the lights after finishing.
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What size the bulb is for the instrument cluster?
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I found one thread in FTE regarding replacing instrument cluster bulbs but the solution was to contact Circuit Board Medics. I have one dark area on the right side of the tach and another dark area on the left side of the speedo. Probably the same bulb that's out. Also, can attempt to replace the bulbs (assuming its a bulb and not a fiber optic of some sort) in the steering wheel volume and fan controls?
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99 F-150 V-6, 125,000 miles: I repaired the odometer connection on the cluster mother board! It now works great but now have no running (parking) lights and no backlights for the instrument cluster. I think (!) they were working before I pulled the cluster to fix the odometer--not sure. Fuzes are all good--I metered each with ohmmeter for continuity, and also have 12V to the right fuzes with headlite switch in Park and Head. I replaced the headlight switch with a new one but still the same problem. Have I messed up something in the cluster board or connections by soldering there? I don't know what role the cluster plays in feeding the running lites or the cluster backup lites. Stumped. What am I missing?
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Need to know if the little icons on your interior 'dome' lights illuminate red when your instrument cluster lights are on? (Just like the power window and dash vent icons..) Audis do, but I've never seen a W8 Passat at night to be able to tell.
Looking for a pic of your interior roof lighting? (Not the center console one near the sunroof control...that of course lights up and shows icons.) I'm looking for the ones towards the rear of the car.
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I recently replaced all my incandescent lights on my 99 ford ranger which makes my truck stand out, but the issue I am having is all my exterior lights work including my turn lights but my running lights will not turn on. Is there any way I can fix this problem. I changed my flasher unit with one that is LED Capatable and i added load equalizers to the back to correct the issue with my turn signals but i just cant get my running lights to work....
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Having a problem with the brake lights. When the brake pedal is pressed, the running lights (including dash lights, parking lights, and the low power filament in tail light) turn on, but no brake lights. When the lights are turned on and brake pedal is pressed, the brake lights do not turn on at all. The 4 way flashers and signal lights work correctly with lights on and off. Things I have tried:
Replaced the tail light bulbs.
Checked fuses (#5, #10).
Disassembled the brake switch and bypassed it with a jumper wire.
Checked the grounds (tail lights, rear ground, drivers inner fender).
Tried to trace the wiring. Didn't see any noticeable damage, but the wiring is in a loom so it is hard to see.
Used contact cleaner on brake switch, rear wiring harness, body harness.
Still hoping it may be something simple that I've overlooked.
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Just the other day I fired the truck up and turned the lights on and my headlights came on but my gauges didn't light up. I figured I probably had a blown fuse or something so I didn't bother checking it immediately and decided to drive home anyways and on the way home I got a phone call saying that my running lights weren't working either. Front or rear. Still have brake lights and turn signals but no running lights. I've checked all the fuses and none of them are blown and I'm going nuts trying to figure out what is wrong before I get a ticket. I'm tired of lightly holding the brake as I pass by cops at night. What could be causing this issue?
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Turned my lights on in my 2001 VW Passat and my instrument cluster lights are no longer working. The area showing MPG and Outside temp is functional but nothing else is. The lights for the radio, fan hazard sign etc are all fine.
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I have a 2008 Ford F-150 xlt with stock instrument cluster. I need a new instrument cluster due to my interior lights coming on while driving. I would like to make it look better and not go stock. Id like to have digital shift screen and good looking LED's. What all are my options?
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I have a 2001 F350 and instrument cluster lights will not work. Fuses are good and the gauges still work just not the lights.
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I have a 1997 Ford Expedition, 5.4. My research indicates that fuses 2. 19. 29 are associated with the instrument cluster (IC), could you identify their specific function in relation to the IC? My IC gauge lights are not showing and my alternator is not consistently charging. The blinkers, battery, oil, brake, and ABS indicator lights are showing in start. Regarding the alternator, my research indicates that a failing alt light on the IC may cause the no charging condition? As a note, I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, brand new 3 pin wiring harness. Also, when the alternator is not charging and I connect the a jumper from the exciter wire directly to the pos battery terminal, the charging starts.
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My Escape is starting to have starting problems. I go to start it and all of the instrument cluster warning lights come on, but the truck doesn't start. If I wait a little while, all of the sudden it starts but all of the sudden the cluster lights start flashing, the various warning beeps sound off, the emergency flashers go off, etc. This lasts anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes until everything resets and goes back to normal. What is causing this?
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On my 2002 Santa Fe I just noticed that the instrument lights on the dashboard are out. Also the ones that show the shift position do not work when you put the parking lights or headlights on except R lights up. I have checked about 10 different fuses, but they are all good. All exterior lights and turn signals work.
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I have a 2004 f 450 cab and chassis truck that the problem started out with the radio not coming on. So I asked the local dealer and he gave me a wiring diagram. I pulled the fuse box out and checked the wire from the fuse box to the radio and it works. Great. But he also said I could take the fuse box apart and check to see if their was a broken connection in it. So I did and could only get so far with it. It has a lot of pin on one side that go all the always through and are soldered on both ends. So I put it all back together and reinstalled it. Now the instrument cluster does not work. Not even the warning lights. The interior light doesn't come on either or the door chime. Is it possible to melt the solder off and open the fuse box completely and check all the connections.
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When it rains my "door ajar" light comes on and the overhead lights won't turn off. that's the common problem. i've read many threads where it says to spray liberally with WD40. i intend to do that but the plot thickens.
Usually, after a few dry days, the light goes off and everything returns to normal. Not so any more. the newest episode entails the light staying on for two weeks of good warm, dry weather. naturally i always take the bulbs out. Now, its somewhat sporadic but.... I'll try to explain since I'm still trying to wrap my mind around it.
1. light stays on, dome lights won't go off.
2. tried dome lights couple of times, still wouldn't go off
3. finally, inserted dome lights and they wouldn't come on (except when manually switched on) however the door ajar switch was still on.
4. EXCEPT when i opened the passenger door the domes came on but wouldn't go off so i took the bulbs out again.
5. that's where i am now.
Not positive but I'm thinking since the new wrinkle in established expectations that I'll probably end up replacing the driver's switch. Before I tear up the door panel i need some hints concerning removal. the door has power windows and locks (which i need new actuators but that's a different story). Is there anything I need to watch out for?
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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