Ford Ranger / B-Series :: IMRC Stuck Open - Code P1537
Nov 21, 2011
2002 Ranger 2.3L, 5 spd, 108,000 miles
This has been from about 10,000 miles now. I have cleared the codes, sometimes it will go away for a day or two, but usually is back almost immediately. Finally last week I removed the solenoid and two vacuum lines hoping I would find a cracked hose like others have. No go there, but I replaced the vacuum lines anyway and dosed the vacuum ports on the solenoid with a little carb cleaner. Started truck up and revved it a few times, light stayed out. Next morning the check engine light was back on again.
Guess it must be in the actuator or the IMRC itself. Any success story about using some kind of cleaner to try to degunk this first (assuming it is stuck, that is...) without having to tear it apart?
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Have a 99 Ranger XLT, 4 cyl, manual transmission with 191K miles. Was running good as ever last night but went to start it this morning and throttle's stuck open, causing truck to move forward when in 1st gear. Even with clutch in, near impossible to get vehicle in or out of gear. Managed to get it into reverse, but truck was having none of it. What is the cause or causes of my trouble? Or how much the repairs might cost? I'm on the road so no chance of doing this myself.
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- Cruising along on the highway and then come into town. Idles at 2000 RPM
- Shut it off. and restart it. Again, 2000 RPM.
- Shut it off and it idles normal
- Drive it 2-3 day and then it idles high again
- I have clean and functioned the IAC and it works fine
- Cleaned throttle body and I never can get it to stick.
- Replaced throttle cable
It still was idling high
- Replaced ECM and it idled normal for about 1 year
- Replaced em again and it idled normal for about 6 months
It is back at it again. For what ever reason the EM is telling the IAC to open up and raise the idle...
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, my trucks heat selector lever, that controls the temperature in my truck, is stuck in the cold setting. by stuck I mean, I can try to move it, but it wont budge more than about 1/16" and no more. its really frustrating because of the cold weather here, and I want to have SOME heat in my truck without a bonfire to get it.
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My ignition key is stuck / locked in the off position. The first time this happened I jiggled the key while moving the wheel back and forth and it turned. The next time in the truck nothing worked. I let it roll back a bit then tried, pushed the clutch in and put it in neutral, etc it did not move. (Just had the clutch and clutch hydraulics replaced.) The wheel is locked. The key removes from the cylinder.
I know it is easy to replace the Ignition Lock Cylinder when you can turn the key in the run position. How to remove it when locked in off?
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Is there some kind of special puller that I don't know about? I don't want to be too rough with it as it seems no one carries this particular balancer if I happen to break it. Side question..... I was told that the crank/cam seals will also work on the oil pump as they are the same size. True? I happen to have 3 seals and wouldn't mind changing the oil pump seal as a precaution. (note this is a later 2.3 with a timing belt driven oil pump)
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It springs a little when I turn it all the way, but still no starter. When I remove the key, the dash lights stay on, etc. So, since it was on, we were able to push-start it. I've parked it on a hill for now, and will disconnect the battery when I get it home.
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Having some trouble with my 1987 2.3L ranger - 2wd - Non AC - 107k miles.
The truck feels like its running on 3 cylinders and occasionally stalls. Motor has a pretty good shake to it while idling as well.
Recently replaced injectors, rotor, cap, wire, spark plugs. Timing belt was done approx 30k miles ago.
Put seafoam into it. Problem persists - where to go from here ?
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So I'm motoring along a country road with the cruise set at 50 mph and the truck starts to increase speed.
Tap the brake - nothing happens. I'm up to 65 mph! Knock it into neutral and it revs to around 3,500 rpms and then it unsticks.
What in the world is going on with that? After thinking on it, a few miles farther on and I set the cruise again.
It began immediately picking up speed. I hit the brake and nothing happened. Then I hit the off button and nothing happened.
So again I bumped it up into neutral and it did the same thing - revved for a moment and then kicked off.
The dealership where I get my service done can't get to it for several days. So I'm checking in the meanwhile to see possibilities to identify a cause.
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The temp control seem to work OK, when you turn it on cold, you get cold air and visa versa. Even on AC and MAx AC... air out the defrosters. It's cold when you turn the temp control to cold.
I did some searching here and gather some info on checking the vac lines etc. Everything looks in place but one detail. The vac ball under the hood under the air box has 2 ports on the front end, and only one grey line going into it. The other port has what looks like a rubber boot and part of a very short vac line broken off it.
I looked, I cant find any loose vac lines. I'd like to know if this second port is suppose to have a second line on it, and where does it go? What color is it? Is this the reason the vent selector isnt working?
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