Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Hop In The Truck And Belt Starts Squealing - Harmonic Balancer Came Apart
Sep 27, 2014
Couple days ago, hop in the truck to go to work and belt starts squealing. Belt was old and it had been raining, so I figured it was a little wet. Turned on the defrost, and squeal gets worse. I then smell a burning. Opened the hood and saw the belt dragging on the a/c pulley, so I figure the compressor clutch is shot.
Looked at it today. I was wrong. Took off the belt and the a/c pulley spins fine. I can turn it's front hub by hand as well. I look around and see the crankshaft pulley isn't lined up. It looks like the outer pulley portion separated from the rubber. This caused the belt the jump and ride on the rubber part, cutting grooves in it.
Here's some pics:
From top driver's side:
From top passenger's side:
From bottom passenger's side:
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I have been stuck at the tail end of the head gasket job on my 97 B2300. I have been working every day, so I haven't been able to get to this until today. The harmonic balancer seems to be stuck and I can't get it off. Regular 3 jaw pullers won't work (tried 4, rented one from the parts store that didn't work either) and tapping it from the back side while rotating the engine isn't working either. The pullers keep slipping off because the of the pulley's front ridge being slightly larger in diameter than the rest of the balancer.
Is there some kind of special puller that I don't know about? I don't want to be too rough with it as it seems no one carries this particular balancer if I happen to break it. Side question..... I was told that the crank/cam seals will also work on the oil pump as they are the same size. True? I happen to have 3 seals and wouldn't mind changing the oil pump seal as a precaution. (note this is a later 2.3 with a timing belt driven oil pump)
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I'm about to change out my harmonic balancer and have been reading some sites that tell you have to put it at TDC and other sites say "no" unless your messing with the timing belt. I have a 2002 dodge neon.
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on the 3.5 how do I get the harmonic balancer off? I know that you need to use a 3 arm puller. I have a 3 arm puller but I cant seem to figure it out.
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I changed the harmonic balancer in my 93 ford tempo but the rattle came back!! Last night we tightened the bolt on it with 700 psi but it's still rattling! Could it be a bad balancer or another part that is lose? It rattles at idle and goes away while driving. It just started again the day before yesterday (I thought my husband was just looking to play with the car more) and by last night it got really loud. It's a deeper rattle then the rattle it had before we changed the balancer. Could there be something way out of balance that is causing the balancer to do this?
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I have a 2000 mountaineer 5.0 that has a chirp/squeak when its cold and goes away once warmed up good occasionally. I have replaced the belt, alternator and manually spun all the idler pullies, water pump, ac and tensioner. Nothing squeaks. Is it possible for the harmonic balancer to make this noise?
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I am reviewing the ford assembly instructions before I put my engine back together and noted that it indicates that the balancer bolts are torque to yield. I thought it odd but is it really necessary to replace these? Is it done in practice?
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The MK6 GoRf seems to have a problem with the Rear Harmonic Balancer on the Driveshaft to Haladex Coupler. I will have a look under the car this weekend just to check it out. By the way, I have no driveline vibration under acceleration. Wonder if the problem is with more power/torque on the turbo engines. But we have plenty of boosted VR6 engines, and I wonder if there are problems with the part.
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How to remove a harmonic balancer from a straight 8 Buick engine. There are no bolt holes on the balancer to use a standard balancer removal tool. I was able to remove the center bolt. I removed the center bolt then threaded it back in a couple of threads and tried using my hydraulic gear puller with the center of the puller on the bolt. I got it to move off about 3/16" but then it stopped. Right now I have the hydraulic puller still on under tension and am periodically spraying it with screw loose hoping it may pop off. I need to know if this will work or if I am fighting against the puller now.My 42 to 47 Buick manual does't give any info on removing the balancer.
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I have a wobbly crank pulley and I am wondering how ofter the harmonic balancer should be replaced? I have about 125000miles on my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 and I have heard this is an issue around 100000. Also wondering how much it would cost to replace?
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My 2003 2.3L used to run bad... it had a lot of lag to it when i would try to accelerate. The check engine light was on so i got it checked, and the reading said o2 sensor high voltage or something like that... anyways, i purchased a new sensor (i researched, and found there is only an upstream o2 sensor), replaced it, and the truck ran WAY better, no more lag during acceleration, it was crisp. As i was driving home one day, i was accelerating up a hill, and at about 4000 RPM, the truck almost dies and starts sputtering.
The check engine light started flashing, so i new it was serious, but luckily i was able to make it back to my house. When i got home, i looked under the hood and noticed that #2 & #3 spark plug caps had popped off the spark plugs. What I don't understand is what would have caused that to happen in the first place.... Is it a clogged Catalytic convertor, or is the o2 sensor bad.... Ive read different opinions and technical diagnostic possibilities, but man, i don't want to throw a bunch of money at a truck that I'm really going to have for a few more months. but I need to get it fixed in the mean time.
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For a few months now every time I start the car with AC on the belt squeals really loud. It's been getting worse so I need to fix it now. I just don't know if it's just a belt change or something bigger like the actual AC unit. I got the car certified pre owned in 07 and have never changed an engine belt on it so it's probably due. Here is a video of the noise, first part of video is without AC then I turn it on to here the squeal. Is this simple belt change or a deeper issue with the AC? [URL] .....
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Just recently when pressing gas pedal heavily, my truck makes a squealing noise. What that is?
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I've tried every variation of installing the timing belt on my '91 2.3L Ranger, still not in. The belt seems as if it's too short but I've been told that it "barely" fits, no kidding! I've pulled the crank balancer/timing trigger off and put it back on three or four times already. What's the trick? Everytime I get it close I'm off a tooth or more. Just frustrated, tired of hitching a ride to work.
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I have a ranger as said in title. No a/c. I noticed my belt was cracked very badly so I bought a new one. Dayco made for Ford and Mazda 3.0L V6. Looked the same length as the old one so I put it on and all was good. Then about 2 days later it started squeaking very loudly, not all the time, just 1500 rpm and higher. The hotter the motor got (not overheating just to running temp) the higher rpm it took for it to squeak. I put a stethoscope on all the pulleys/pumps and alt. It sounded the strongest on the idler.
So I replaced the idler and bearing (which the bearing was bad, but not the source of sound) it wasn't that. So I thought I'd give the belt a couple days, maybe it was too tight causing a bearing to get too tight and squeak. And the more I drove it the louder it got with less rpm needed to make it squeak. So I tried belt dressing, and still no fix. So today I put the old belt back on to see if that was the issue. Sure enough, it started up and squeaked just the same, but I tried the belt dressing on the old belt and it went silent, even at 3000 rpm. So I assume from this the new belt was a smidge too big. Right?
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After about 1 minute after starting the truck it sounds like the fan belt is squealing..(below 30 deg outside) Only its not the fan belt as I replaced it. Does not do it when it is engine is operating temperature. Have checked all of the Pulleys which seem to be all right. The frequency of the squealing sound is about 1/3 the engine RPM and will go away above 2k when it does do it. Stopping at a stop light after about 45 seconds it really starts to get loud. Can a Fan Clutch do this.. I beleive that this engine has a timing chain right?
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I have a 1998 ranger 4.0 and about a year after getting it the belt started to squeak so far if have replaced the belt, replaced the tensioner, and cleaned and wire brushed all the pulleys to remove glazing. And it still squeaks and its annoying and kinda embarrassing...
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What is the recommended interval for the timing belt change? I have a '96 B2300 with ~85K on it and he original timing belt. I wanted to change the serpentine belt and my mechanic said he'll take a look at the timing belt. It's not cracked or anything but he says that after 8 years it should be changed.
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A C-note for those 2 pieces of nothing seems ridiculous. Considering sanding and painting instead.
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So i have a 1998 4.0 ohv ranger and have been fighting belt squeak shortly after i got it. I've replaced the belt twice and the tensioner twice when i put a GATES belt on it stopped for like month. But its still squeaking. If i put a wrench on the tensioner and turn it the squeak stops. So i need to find a way to tighten the tensioner could i somehow jam it, our hook up a turn buckle bolt to manually tighten it, or use a different ford tensioner. I really need to do something cause this squeak is just down right annoying.
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