I have 95 ranger 3.0L revs up over 2000rpm at startup then comes down slowly to a little over 1000... Changed the IAC valve still does it... When I let it warm up I unplug the IAC and idles normal and smooth about 750 RPM so I don't think it's a vac leak... What else could it be???
View 5 RepliesTruck is a 2003 Ranger EDGE 2wd auto w/140K miles (looks new) that was a one owner truck I recently bought. Came from Texas and is clean and was well maintained I got all service records up until I bought it in the fall last year. OK now the problems...
First...it has a high idle in the mornings when cold about 2000RPM. After it warms up it settles to about 800-900RPM but is VERY ROUGH to the point where it feels it will stall. I DID replace the spark plugs and the plug wires look newer and are not OEM. I DID remove and clean the IAC and it does not look very dirty but I did slightly clean it anyway.
When I did this I disconnected the battery for 20min. After I put it back together it ran smooth for about the first 10 minutes then same rough idle came back. I was told this truck has no EGR so that's not an issue. There are NO CODES and when I ran my pocket scanner nothing comes up either. Should I just go to NAPA and get a new IAC anyway? What else can I do?
My new-to-me 2001 Ranger 2.3L runs great except for this one problem: At under 2000 rpm, if I give the gas more than the gentlest tickle it misses and bucks until I back off. It also misses at idle. There is no CEL but I did pull a P0442 code which points to the evap purge valve. At above 2K rpm, it runs like a champ and I can floor it, except when under load such as climbing a hill.
Could this be the problem, or should I look elsewhere also? I'm not one to just throw random parts at a problem. The previous owner thought it was old gas or an injector, but I would expect it to run poorly all the time. The service writer at the Ford dealer thought it sounded like an electrical issue, but coil, plug wires and plugs are new.
I have an 87 ranger that has started having problems over the last week or so. I had a similar problem a year or so ago. I put a new fuel pressure regulator on and it fixed it. So it started acting up again so I got another regulator and it didn't work at all. It won't idle at all without dying. The motor revs up then cuts out completely and dies. It's like I'm repeatedly pressing the gas pedal when I do get it to idle but I'm not touching it at all. It runs fairly well on the road until I let off the gas then it goes to shaking and jumping up and down till I get back on the gas.
A guy told me to unplug a little cigarette pack shaped plastic box and see if it changed anything. I think he called it a map sensor? But that didn't do anything. I was thinking maybe the fuel filter was clogged up but I don't really know. It is fuel injected 2.9 4x4 regular cab. About 110000 miles. Not sure if filter has ever been changed. It doesn't smoke or smell like gas so I'm thinking it's starving for fuel.
I have a 99 Ranger w/3.0. It idles about 1500 rpm cold,and 1200 warm. Here are the things that I have tried.
1.Checked ALL vacumn hoses/lines
2.Changed Air idle control sensor
3.Throttle position sensor
4.removed and completely cleaned throttle plate in throttle body.
5. removed top of intake manifold and checked for cracks and/or leaky gasket.
Nothing seems to change. Could it be a faulty ecm?
My 92 ranger, 2wd, 6 cyl, manual trans, is running at about 3500 rpm at idle. I was wondering what might be the cause, maybe something with the throttle or could the gauge be screwed up.
View 14 RepliesMy ranger 2.9 automatic 2WD has an high idle when started for about 6 min, engine can be hot or cold, still get the high idle, then it will drop to around 900-1000. I've changed the Idle control twice, checked EGR function. Replace temp sensor. Disconnected battery for 15 min. No code output.
View 7 RepliesMy truck has been doing this since I got it and I can't figure it out. It's a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5 5Spd. It runs fine if you don't rev it above 2500-3000 rpm. After you rev it that high coming down to idle it is stumbling real bad and sometimes stalls. I've been driving it like this since I got it, and it does fine other than this. It gets better the longer you drive it, but it still will do it if you rev it high enough.
Here are all the parts I personally have changed (previous owner said he did the plugs and wires and air filter, which it looks like he did but I'm about ready to change them myself):
-Fuel filter
-coil packs
-timing belt
-egr valve
-cleaned throttle body
-iacv
-tps
-thermostat
Ranger often wants to idle at 2,500 to 3,000 rpm. I'm glad its got a clutch! This is a long term intermittent problem that is getting worse. I have replaced the the IAC twice. I have unplugged the IAC when the engine is in high idle and the engine idles normally. But, starting the car with the IAC unplugged makes car run rough. That makes me think the IAC is not getting the right voltage input from the pmc (eec). Mine is a 2002 with the 3.0 engine. Throttle plate seems to be closed.
What sense inputs does PMC use to determine idle air position? Also replaced TPS sometime ago but that didn't work either. Sometimes turning off the a/c will knock the idle back to normal but not always. Turning the car off completely usually resets idle. But the high idle comes right back after accelerating. Drove the car today and idle would stick and stay high when clutch pushed in coming to a light. However. as the car slowed to a stop the idle would come down when rolling 1-2 mph. ??
1999 B3000 with a 3.0. The truck idles at 850rpms. When it starts it idles at around 1000 and runs very rough. When I disconnect the IAC the engine dies. The AC also has problems it blows cold at idle but at highway speeds after 7-8 minutes running the compressor kicks out. One can turn it off and it blows cold again after a few minutes.
View 5 RepliesI have no High Beams and the little blue light does not come on in the dash. I also do not have flash to pass. I searched through the older posts and found other similar problems but their dash indicator came on. I changed both bulbs this morning and checked the 2 fuses in the panel (#4 & 8 I believe.)
What to check next? I don't see how you would get the headlight switch out of the dash to change it, the fuse panel is directly behind it. Does it get moved to access the switch? Should I be looking at the dash on/off switch first or the column lo/hi/flash to pass switch?
My '03 Ranger is having a high idle problem. It's a 3.0, manual, 2wd, 141,000 miles. When it's cold it will idle at about 1500 but once I drive it, even just to the end of the block, it will idle at about 3000 and shoot up towards that between shifts. At a traffic light it will idle at 3000 and maybe go down to about 2500. If I bog it down with the clutch it goes right back up once I put the clutch back in or put it in neutral.
I replaced the IAC, no luck. I cleaned the MAF and checked the voltage on the TPS and it is good. I replaced the PVC valve, but the old one was fine anyway. I've sprayed around with carb cleaner and don't notice any difference. I've plugged it into my dad's AutoTap which lets me monitor everything on my laptop and the only thing I can see that looks suspicious is that even with the engine off, the Absolute Throttle Angle reads 18.8%. If I step on the gas with the engine off it goes up to 91.8% so I would imagine that just has to do with the function of the TPS and probably isn't out of the ordinary, but I don't really know what that number means or what the Absolute Throttle Angle is or is supposed to be.
Short of taking the intake plenum off and physically inspecting it for cracks, I'm stumped.
My ranger sounds like it's revving up real high when I take off but don't have much power. Know what this could be?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1997 Ford Ranger XLT 6 cyl. 4 wheel drive. I got this truck from a friend. Only had it for a month or so has about 185K on it but has been running great.
I did notice a couple times that when I pushed the clutch in approaching a light the truck would jump a bit in RPM to about 2600. but go back down in a second or two.
This started to occur more frequently and now it does it almost all the time....when I push clutch in it revs up to about 2600 RPM.
Now I can have my foot on the brake and let the clutch out to put some strain on the engine and knock the RPM down but its still a bot high in the 1k range. Sometimes it actually goes back to normal...
When I started it this morning it was fine....but after two shifts it started and lasted the 12 miles to work. What could be causing this? It does not seem to go above 3000 RPM when it revs.... Other then that the truck runs great.
2000 ranger 2.5 stick, coming to a stop i put in the cluch and the motor speeds up then slows down sometimes more sometimes less.
A month ago I had a code PO171, with a good idle. I cleaned the MAF senser then cleared the code, a week later the the CIL came back on same code. Then a month after the CIL is on the engine idle problem started. So I recleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, cleared the code, and replaced the ICV with a new one. That worked good for about 3 days now the idle problem is back again.
The idle problem seam to be worse when the motor is warm or has been running at freeway speeds.
I have a 1997 Ranger with a 3.0 v6 with a super high idle.
It idles at 2500 RPM when the IAC is plugged and a steady 1100 when unplugged. I have replaced the IAC twice now (dropped the first replacement. long story) and and have also checked for vac leaks with no results.
After about 2-3 minutes of idling at 2500 on a cold start it will drop down to 1100 (same as when IAC is unplugged), but after a 10 minutes or so drive it will idle steady at 2500 with minimal if any dropping in RPMs. This is driving me crazy not only because it sounds horrible but also because of the fact it's burning through fuel like it's going out of style.
I have checked the MAF sensor and it looks brand new (not the original owner) along with the O2 sensor. I have been meaning to check the TPS voltage to see if it's working correctly but without a working multi-meter it's making it difficult to do anything.
I'm at a loss with this right now and because of all the previous repairs i have done to it and the others that still need to be done i don't have the biggest budget to fix this problem nor the money the truck is using in gas.
My 2000 Ranger (4.0L, V6, manual tranny) is acting weird in first and second gears as well as idle. I hear a ticking and then the engine revs. At idle, I see the tach needle move a little. While driving, the truck jerks. It's a smooth ride once I move into third gear.
View 14 RepliesIts a 2000 flex fuel 3.0... Its not the actual injector. I think its wiring or computer. No change in idle when I pull the injector plug. But I think I can feel the injector opening and closing. Compared to nearby injector diagnostic light flashes less brightly. but that's pretty hard to quantify
When I pull the plug on another injector it idles about the same but I can tell it surge up and down as I disconnect and reconnect it. Fuel injectors were backflushed and swapped same problem cylinder. Where do I go from here just take apart the loom and look for abraded wires? Its the number one cylinder, passenger front.
I now have a 1991 ranger 3.0 super cab. I need a step by step walkthrough of how to time it. Keep in mind that I ha the distributor out while turning the engine over so I need from start to finish, including the spout connector. It runs right now but idles high at the start and the. Stumbles down to about 500rpm and sometimes dies....
View 12 RepliesMy son bout his first truck yesterday. 98 ranger sc 4x4 auto 4.0. Beautiful shape 139000 miles. got it cheap as it has issues. its been parked for a year. It has a surging idle when you start it up. rev it to 2500-3000 rpm and it idles fine turn it off and restart it surges again until you rev it. When we test drove it it ran like it was running out of gas/bad fuel pump, sputter at full throttle but accelerate at part throttle. Gauge said under 1/4 tank of gas. We put 3 gallons of gas in it when we got home and it seems to run fine now other than the idle surge. it had a 174 code(lean bank) but if it was running out of gas it should pull a lean code right? I am thinking IAC or intake leak.
View 9 Replies2000 ranger auto 3.0 wife said that she had problems starting the truck
She had wiggle the shifter to get it to start. Have not looked at it yet but i am think the newtrl safety Switch.