Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Hesitation When First Pulling Out From A Stop
Mar 17, 2012
That's the best way I can describe part my latest problem. If I'm stopped at a light, a lot of the time it almost feels like it wants to stall when I first pull out. Then, it seems like it is shifting funny at certain speeds like the transmission can't decide what gear it wants to be in. Tends to do that about mid acceleration (don't have an rpm gauge to look at). At idle it seems to run fine. BTW, engine also runs rough with the ac on.
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I recently changed the front pads and rotors on my 2002 Ford Ranger 2wd and I'm having some troubles now. Occasionally when I'm pulling up to stop lights toward the end of my braking i can feel them cut out and the ABS kicks on. It's a very intermittent problem, and it only happens at low speeds. When I try to induce the fault it never happens, it only seems to after an extended period of braking going less than 10 mph. I'm very confused, and I was thinking about changing out my calipers unless know what might be happening.
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So among the other annoyances my 92 Ranger 4.0 auto has it has a hesitation before it starts spinning the tires under full throttle from a dead stop. It's the 4.0 automatic. I thought it would have more power than it actually does being use to a 2.5 auto. But this 92 4.0 runs and drives good. I've gotten it tuned up with new motorcraft wires, plugs, new coil, fuel filter, fuel pump assembly, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, idle air valve, new O2 sensor, new Dynomax muffler. I can't find any vacuum leaks. The engine idles slightly rough after you start it up from it sitting for a few hours, but quickly smooths out as soon as you start driving it.
This one here has no EGR. Transmission feels good, may have even been replaced by previous owner before we got it. It shifts good and the fluid is clean and the transmission is the cleanest part under the whole truck. No way of knowing for sure. The truck currently has 111,000 miles and I did all that stuff when we got it at 101,000 miles. So what could it be? I'm thinking a lazy injector or could it be the catalytic converter? Or could it be the throttle body? I know I once had a BBK throttle body on it and it made the world of difference in off the line power but it kept throwing too rich/lean condition and a TPS code so I had to return it. It sucks because it did wake up the motor. I returned it and since then the Check Engine Light hasn't come back on.
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I need to better qualify when it happens (it may be always, not certain) but when I first drive off in my car in the morning I find the initial 10s or so there is a delay before my power comes on stream.
So I am moving, but very slowly and the V8 doesn't seem to be pulling. There is a stop sign at the end of my street that is maybe 5 houses away, so there isn't a lot of time for acceleration, but its mostly momentum before I hit the stop sign, even if I had depressed the accelerator.
It doesn't jerk or anything when the power comes online but it is very strange to me that there is a delay. Is this normal or an indication of a problem or wear item somewhere?
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I own a 2001 Chevrolet Prizm with ~150,000 miles. It has the three speed automatic transmission. It generally runs very well, but occasionally when pulling away from a stop it will hesitate for 2-5 seconds. I'll push the gas, but it will basically just creep forward slowly, as if I'd only taken my foot off the brake. If I keep my foot on the gas for a few seconds it will start to accelerate, although it seems to surge a little bit (although this could be because I probably end up pushing the gas harder than I normally would, hoping that it will go).
This problem was happening very intermittently, although its been happening more lately. Its been going on over the past year or so, but it would only happen maybe a few times a month. Over the past month, though its been happening more and more. Probably every other day for the past month. However, it doesn't happen at every stop. For example, if I leave for work (about a 15 min drive on city streets) it will usually make it through a few traffic lights before it happens. Then after 5-10 minutes driving I might pull up to a stoplight and it will hesitate pulling away. It might make it the rest of the way to work without incident, or it might do this at 1-2 more stoplights. On longer trips the car seems fine; it runs well on the highway and behaves normally otherwise.
Some maintenance history:-bought the car 5 years ago with 110k miles; it had just had a rebuilt engine installed-about 3 years ago I had the catalytic converter and O2 sensors replaced (got a check engine code)-about 2 years ago I had the in-tank fuel pump replaced-about 10 months ago I replaced the mass airflow sensor (the car was stalling on start-up and the check engine light was on - this fixed the stalling problem, but not the intermittent hesitation problem)-I have not had any transmission service done, but the car shifts smoothly. I checked the fluid and the levels seem fine and it doesn't smell burnt.
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All I did was take wheel off to tap a stud and I saw the inboard pad shim came off. So I removed the shim and reinstalled everything and the wheel is severely pulling to the right. Yesterday I took the caliper off but did not take off hose, cleaned slide pins and lubricated with anti seize. Still pulling to right bad. Don't hear any squealing or grinding. But pass side wheel is definitely hotter than drivers side. One mechanic said he thinks it would be a bad hose before replacing caliper. What could it be?
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My ranger is an 89 but it's got a 91 motor in it, 2.9 V6. When I accelerate it hesitates before actually accelerating which makes me think the TPS is bad. Probed and tested and I got .85V throttle closed and 4.65 at wide open. Specs call for .8V - 4.5V
I'm not sure if there's an allowance of fluctuation, but is that high enough to point out a bad TPS? If it's not the TPS, is the ignition timing off or what else could it be?
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I was pulling out of a parking lot making a sharp turn when all the sudden I lost my power steering. I have a '94 Ford Ranger manual transmission. It didn't make any sounds. I was going to try to keep adding power steering fluid to it and try to get it home to my mechanic in my hometown - but it drips constant liquid when I drive it down the street (you can see drips) so I don't think that's possible. I've read a lot on here about gear boxes failing, but would this cause it to leak even if the truck wasn't running? (the puddle builds quickly when its just sitting there, engine off). I took it to a mechanic (I don't have tools), and they said they can't say anything for sure until they look around, it could be seals or a new gear box.
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Finally back able to start working on the Ranger and have a few questions.
When I got this thing back from my son it was running rough. I've fixed all the codes it was getting so no luck there now. Not sure how to explain it but, it feels like it is cutting back when driving at a steady speed and it idles rough. Not really like a miss but more like a hesitation when driving.
I've cleaned the MAP and IAC and changed the fuel filter. I also pulled the plugs and they looked good. My son installed new plugs and wires but he used the E3's and not sure how, or if, you're suppose to set the gap. I haven't checked the PCV yet because haven't figured out how exactly you get it out without pulling the intake.
So, where to look next? I'm kind of thinking the cam sensor but think I'll leave that to a shop sense I want the shaft replaced at the same time.
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My 1989 Ford Ranger 2,9 V6 is acting up like crazy (engine hesitation) after kick down (it has an automatic transmission).
It can run like a charm for days and days and for the longest drives, but if I do a kick down it will start acting up (while both cruising or idling). This is making it almost impossible to drive as it looses speed. Only way to accelerate again is to do another kick down (then it will accelerate smoothly for as long as I keep my foot down), but that is really no solution as it will accelerate way past the speed limits and the mpg is horrible going up and down like that.
A couple of times this problem has seemed to solved itself after a while of engine hesitation but normally it would be acting up for the whole drive. On the other hand it will be okay again the next time I take it out for a drive.
Diagnostics: It has nothing to do with the temperature of the motor as this will happen after a kick down on both a cold or hot engine.
Simple solution so far: Avoid kick down!
What I have done so far: I have changed the spark plugs, the plug wires, the distributor rotor and the distributor cap with no luck.
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I have a 85 bronco 2, but i have no luck with responses in Bronco 2 forum, so here goes. It is the 2.8 carb, manual trans with 109K miles. Idles really well some hesitation when taking off but really bad miss and not power under acceleration. KOEO codes are 31 and 84 CM code 18. I have plugged the vacuum line to the EGR and have noticed a dramatic difference. I have tried to rev the engine and check the vac line to the EGR but I do not feel any vacuum, and at idle the vac line on or off doesn't change things. Any recommendations to whether it is the Sensor or the valve itself and what gives with the 18 code. I am hoping to have timing checked by the weekend.
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Ok I've been plagued with this very random misfire/power loss/hesitation problem going on a couple of months. You could drive the truck anywhere from 50-300 miles without having an encounter of this problem. It seems to do it now mostly on contiguous long trips over like 30 miles. It one time threw up a P1131 code which quickly went away on it's own. This is a list of stuff that has been recently changed: plugs, wires, coil packs, air filter, pcv valve, fuel injectors, tps, idle air valve, MAF cleaned, fuel filter, and egr valve.
I sprayed with brake cleaner for vacuum leaks around the intake tonight after driving a continuous 50 mile round trip it messed a few times on the way back. When I sprayed the EGR valve mounting area it idled rough when it was hit with brake clean and idled up. So there's a leak there. Or is it stuck? It will be driving normal and usually when you come to a stop the engine will start missing really bad and then when you take off there's no power at all. You keep your foot on the gas and eventually it will feel like all the power is just turned on.
If it does it while you're driving highway speeds it will feel like you've lost a cylinder but it's not as dramatic as when you come to a stop and it starts missing. I can't be 100% but I don't think the EGR wasn't leaking before I replaced it and it was still doing the same thing. I'm wondering why the Check Engine Light won't pick up an obvious misfire when you can you actually feel it. And why if it was the vacuum leak would it only start doing it after many miles of driving?
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My truck is pulsating when I am coming to a stop, a lot of you all said replace the rotors to which i did and new brakes, shocks. Today I went to get my truck all four wheel alignment done to my truck.. something is not right..
I got my driver tire facing straight, look at the left.. I went back to the alignment shop showed them that, they put it back up there, they called me over and pointed out the machine they use say, it is aligned.. So what is the problem you figure?
To update all I've done to the truck in regards to front end..
rack and pinion
upper control arm
upper lower ball joints
stabilizer inks
rotors (front)
brakes
shocks
When I straighten my left wheel, the right does not look right..
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I have an 89 Ranger, 5 speed, 2wd, M50D transmission. On the way home tonight I was upshifting from a stop and when I went to go from 4th to 5th the shifter wouldn't budge. Luckily I was on a back road so I pulled off the road and tried all sorts of things (rolling truck while stopped, etc) and the shifter just will not budge.
Now here is the thing. I had my fiancé with me and no tools so I really couldn't do any diagnosing. However, 6 months ago I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, slave cylinder, and pilot bearing. While I had the transmission out of the truck I changed the fluid, siliconed around the rubber plugs, and put a shift bushing kit in. The bushing kit is the bushings around the shift ball with new wave washers and new pins that insert into the ball.
It is obviously not related to the clutch as it engages/disengages properly. When this happened, there were no noises of any kind when I shifted from 3rd to 4th. It just will not come out of 4th. I am going to pull the shifter out tomorrow and have a look. Do you think one of the new pins that I drove in to hold the shift ball broke or fell out or something and if so would it cause this problem?
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When ever i am at a complete stop, i have to hold down the clutch pedal for about 4 seconds before it will go into any gear. If i'm in motion it shifts flawlessly through all gears. But if i stop and put it into neutral and let off the clutch, the next time i push it down it will take about 4 seconds to slide in any gear including reverse. I just bought the truck a few days ago so i don't know its history but everything seems well maintained. What this is and if it will cause major issues down the line?
1995 Ranger XLT 2.3L SOHC 2WD 5spd 169,000 miles...
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I have the problem that my 1996 ranger 4x4 has a break problem. When it comes to a stop it feels like one of the tires locks up, feel wired. Ihad the problem before i changed the front breakpads and it still continues. Air in the lines? ABS module?
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I noticed that my ABS was engaging when I would slow down to a stop while turning left. I pulled the fuse for the ABS just to make sure that's what was causing the pulsating brake, and it was. Anyway, if it's an ABS sensor problem, would it be the front passenger side sensor if it's only happening when I turn left? Is there a way to test this. Would a scanner detect it? It hasn't been throwing a code or anything. Just the ABS engaging while braking and turning to the left when it shouldn't be.
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I have a 2000 ford ranger 2.5 automatic. runs fine except when stopping at lights and intersections it stalls. I have changed the MAF, TPS and hasn't made a difference.Truck only has 64,000 miles. What to look at next. no codes...
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2000 Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0L Auto
So a couple months ago I had a transmission problem. It shifts high and hard all times and after the "od" light gets going (after it gets warm), the transmission slips (like riding clutch) when starting from a stop. If I went from drive to 1st gear with the selector and back, it cleared the slipping problem for a bit. I did an oil/filter change and about 50 miles later the truck is running fine, no issues. One day I hopped in it to go to work and it was like nothing ever happened. Fast forward 1,500 miles later. I start to notice the transmission is subtly shifting weird, like a small jerk when shifting. It gets worse over 50 miles and now I am back to the above problem. Is there a way this could be a sensor or solenoid problem? I never heard of a transmission correcting an issue then starting at it again so much later.
I don't like fixing or working on an issue unless I am at least 95% sure what the problem is. I also don't have $2k to plop down on a repair at the moment. Would it be worth it to take this to a dealership and see what trouble codes I am getting? I would try a transmission shop but it's not guaranteed they will have the test equipment to check a ford transmission. Also a friend said that AutoZone and other stores can't check transmission codes. So what's the best option here?
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I have at 2007, 3 liter ranger. I just replaced the plug wires and coil pack. Ive checked and rechecked the wires, firing order is right,everything has spark but i now have a miss from a stop to 1500 rpm. what do i need to do to fix the issue.
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OK- the truck is a early '96 B4000 4.0, 5 speed 4x4. The key could be pulled from the ignition switch in the "run" position (worn key/lock cyl.) I got in the habit of not using the key (never turned the switch to "lock", just "off"). No issues, been driving the truck all over with no key for some time. Now I can't find the key and alarm fob. No worries, I'll just replace the ignition lock/cyl. Done.
Now the alarm is triggered, and I can't stop it. Truck won't crank, either. I assume the no crank condition is the result of the anti-theft being active. I assumed that because I had been driving around with no key, that I did not have a "chipped" key, assuming the truck wouldn't run unless the "chipped" key was in the switch. Since it ran fine, the assumption was no chip. Now I'm not so sure.
What I would like to do is disable the anti-theft/alarm system totally. Pulling the fuse is no good b/c that kills the fuel supply. Is this possible, or do I scrap the truck? I've found 2 sources on the web that indicate that grounding the the green/purple wire that goes into the drivers door will disable the system.
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