Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Hard To Get Into Gear - Trans Partially Engaging
Mar 10, 2017
I have a 99 ranger 4x4 4.0 V6 with 200K miles..I just had the slave cylinder replaced and bled however, it is still hard to get into gear and when at a stop light with the clutch pedal pushed in all the way the truck tries to move forward as if its in gear. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic says that the hydraulic system is working as it should and the problem could only be the pilot bushing failing and causing the trans to partially engage. The clutch and previous slave cyl only had 25K before the slave cyl failed and started leaking!!
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I'm having a little issue with shifting into first. Once in a while it simply will not go in, like you're pushing the shifter against a brick wall. If I turn off the truck and turn it back on, it works absolutely fine. I can shift into 2nd-5th no problem at all times. Is it just the shift linkage, or...? I'm not really sure where to start.
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i have a 1999 mazda troy lee b3000. The truck has a 3.0 flex fuel and 4r44e and when you go to drive it. turn the key engine fires up but the trans won't shift into gear. Here is the back story.Bought the truck brand new in 99 I'm the original owner it was a daily driver up until 2 years ago. the truck has over 300k miles and still ran great but the camshaft was starting to go. I was gona replace the cam but came across a killer deal on a new engine. picked up another 3.0 flex fuel with 50k miles. drove the truck into my garage removed the old engine installed the new engine. got in the truck turned the key and the new engine roared to life.
I went to put the truck into gear so i could get it out of the garage and go for a test drive and nothing. went to put it in drive and again nothing. no matter what gear its put in it doesn't move at this point i was confused and decided to quit for the night. That was in 2011 its now 2013 the truck has just sat there sense then. I've tried anything and everything even went as far as swapping transmissions and computers with no luck. I took the trans apart I don't know how many times can't find anything wrong with it.
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I have a 98 XLT 4.0, auto trans with 109K miles and when it's really hot outside and it's been driven when I start back up and put it into drive it sometimes takes a while to go into gear. A friend says the transmission fluid doesn't look too good and it smells. Obviously I have a transmission problem but my question is would changing the fluid do any good at all? Since the tranny is bad what harm could it do? The fluid was never changed previously.
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I have a 99 Ranger 3.0L automatic, ext cab, 2 wheel drive. Door sticker show code "T" which I looked up as the 4R44E. The trans seems to be slipping in 1st and 2nd. Thought it was "reared shudder", from a "limited slip" differential but mine is not limited slip. just the regular 8.8 with 373 gears.
Wanting to know what if any options I have for buying a new / rebuilt tranny? I've seen where depending upon the year and motor, Ranger can have 4r44e, 4r55e, 5r55e, etc.
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1996 4x4, manual trans. Wants to kick out of first, and when shifting into 3rd I have no gear. Doesnt grind, just goes in as though it were neutral.
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It's a 4 cylinder 5 speed, and once or twice a day when the light turns green and I go to put it in low gear, it just doesn't want to go into gear easy. It's like the syncro isn't happy or something. The clutch is depressed all the way and not dragging.
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I have a 1999 ford ranger 4x4 with automatic 5r55e and it had problems shifting smoothly into third gear. I changes the valve body gaskets and the (rooster comb) detent lever. Now it shifts very hard and has on first second and passing gear.
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2000 Ranger 4R44e transmission.Hard shift from 2-3 gear and when i run about 35-40 mph and brake then acelerate it downshifts hard . Whats wrong with it?
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My surging/running down issue has returned on my '86 2.3l Ranger. I thought it was electrical, when things improved with the new ignition switch, but lately it's hard to get out of 2nd gear before the engine surges then starts to lose power. a poke of the gas pedal starts the who cycle over again. I pulled codes but it's hard to tell what the reader is saying either 33 and 34 or 334. The good thing is all the codes point to the EGR system. Looking for a diagnosis tree to determine if the valve is bad or the sensor is shot? They are both not cheap so I don't want to just throw parts at the problem.
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Rebuild on the Mazda 5 speed transmission. My 1986 Ranger 2.3 Four cylinder has 280,000 miles and the clutch has never been replaced. It's not slipping but I'm having trouble getting it into gear from neutral. Was told that the release springs on the clutch plate have weakened causing the clutch to not release completely so figured it's time to replace it. It's done well the last 280,000 miles. The question I have : overhauling on one of these Mazda trans and how difficult was it. Any special tools required, etc...I see Autozone has a rebuild kit which appears to have bearings, seals and gaskets. Figured while it was out I would go ahead and rebuild it myself if I can. Rebuilt a few engines but never touched a trans.
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I've got a 1982 Courier 2.0 2wd 5speed pickup and it's been passed down through my family and has sat for quite a while so I started tinkering with it in my spare time.
I began with the motor and got it to run after 15 years of sitting around but am having issues with the transmission. When I first got it running a while back i had it in gear and when I let out on the clutch it lunged forward a little and stalled. I have since then towed it a short distance across my yard (in neutral of course), but now it seems like it isn't doing anything while it's in gear.
While its running I can put it in gear (even without the clutch) it doesn't grind jump or anything. Everything feels like it's okay as in going into all the gears. I was wondering if this is possibly clutch related or if it's the trans itself. Or maybe some electrical thing related. I haven't taken anything apart yet in hopes that it's something simple. I was curious if it might be low on fluid and maybe that would cause it not to engage properly?
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I have a 2001 ranger 4x4 4.0 L with what appears to be a unique a/c problem. Over the last week the compressor will not kick on immediately and seems to randomly decide when it is going to function. Once it starts, it runs properly and cools well, until I turn the engine off and it is back to square one. We have checked the coolant level and it is full. the problem seems to be getting progressively worse....At first it took about 15 minutes for it to decide to trip, then 30 minutes, and yesterday I drove for over an hour and the compressor never kicked on.
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I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
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So went today and bought a 1993 ranger 4x4 ext cab 4.0! Runs good some bad handy work that i need to fix but truck has plenty of power and good handling...
issue 1- 4x4 not engaging. the light by the push buttons does not come on and you dont hear the "clicking" of the relay trying to engage. so whats the problem and how do i fix it?
issue 2- when clutch is fully depressed and you go to shift (this is only sometimes) you can feel and hear it grind just for a quick sec. and forget about down shifting you cant do that without slowing down. so maybe new clutch?
issue 3- at 65 the vehicle does shake a little otherwise but pretty smooth. any tips on how to smooth it out? maybe new ball joints? tighten some stuff up maybe?
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So that's what if feels like, in park at idle it sounds great, starts great no codes. IF you floor it it will not go over 3000 rpms in park, it feels like it has hit a rev limiter. I have 60psi fuel pressure at idle and at 3000 rpm.
When driving down the road I won't go over 55 mph and drives normal if you keep it under 3000 rpm, if you give it more gas it falls on its face?
AC is not working (clutch not engaging)I don't know if that's related or not.
We did just swap the motor the truck is a 2003 2wd drive. motor came out of an 2002 4wd. we are running the 2wd harness, computer egr delete etc.
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I noticed that my ABS was engaging when I would slow down to a stop while turning left. I pulled the fuse for the ABS just to make sure that's what was causing the pulsating brake, and it was. Anyway, if it's an ABS sensor problem, would it be the front passenger side sensor if it's only happening when I turn left? Is there a way to test this. Would a scanner detect it? It hasn't been throwing a code or anything. Just the ABS engaging while braking and turning to the left when it shouldn't be.
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The key cylinder is basically not engaging anything. The key rotates all the way from auxiliary to start but there's no resistance anywhere, just sort of flops back and forth. I put in a new cylinder just now and luckily it engaged the starter just enough so I was able to get the car home from my wife's work but of course once in my driveway the key would not turn the car off. So if the cylinder is good then what should I check next?
On a side note, what's an easy way to turn the car off next time this happens? Disconnecting the battery didn't work, then I couldn't find an inertia switch. I finally disconnected the alternator with lots of sparks but it did shut the engine off.
It's been a rough night already and I still need to figure out how to get the Ranger I left at my wife's work. The Bronco's got no insurance and my wife can't drive a stick anyway, same issue with the motorcycle. Thinking I'm in for a 10 mile bicycle ride.
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My 88 2.3l 5 speed ranger was running fine then i went to start it up again and it wouldn't turn any of the cylinders or none of the belts move. i can hear the fuel pump turn on for about a second every time, there is weak fuel pressure at the rail. Why wouldn't the engine crank? the starter does not turn the belts and all i hear is a whizzing sound. it sounds as if the starter is spinning but not engaging.
I have had problems with the fuel pump relays but those are all taped up pretty good. I am leaning towards a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump. but even with a bad fuel pump or clogged filter wouldn't the engine try to crank even with low fuel pressure? I have a new battery in there. I checked all the fuses in the kick panel. I will check the inertia switch wires as the inertia switch has been disabled.
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I have a 2003 ford ranger xlt 4.0L and here recently my ac compressor has been making a loud click noise engaging even though i am not using heat or AC, so when it engages the rpms drop and almost wants to stall and it does this in about 10-15 sec. intervals, but when I am driving it acts fine. What is going on here, I recently had a vacuum leak and i found it and fixed it, and now this issue just started.
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1999 XTL 4.0 auto, was doing fine, replaced Interior light bulb, now wont crank over!!! i suspect the anti theft system... how do i fix or ByPass the security system, i can start the truck by Manually engaging the starter Relay under the hood.
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