Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Fuse 11 In Battery Junction Box Under Hood Keeps Blowing
Jan 13, 2015
fuse #11 in the battery junction box under hood keeps blowing, the last time I put a fuse in it blew immediately, key was off and lights off. Fuse is for parking lights, dash light and I/P(whatever that is) and switch illumination lights. I have to start following all wires to find bad spot. May just put in piece of metal and watch for smoke...
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Description: It will crank over forever but not start. New timing belt water pump, etc, so it is not timing. tried different fuel pump relay. no luck. new fuse no luck. The radio fuse also shorts and blows when I change it. Headlight does not come on, but the cabin "ding ding ding" sound plays. Marker, turning, reverse, and brake lights work.
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT does not come on during key turn. I may know what caused it or it may not. Before all of this happened, my audio system fuse under the hood blow. It blew again after I installed a new fuse (immediately).
One day, the wires on a portable cigarette light pump snapped and the two wires had been touch. I noticed the truck stalled several times when letting off the gas and coming to a rolling stop. The fuel pump relay makes a click noise when I turn the key
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2000 Model, The fuse keeps blowing on this. I thought it was the cruise control fuse because the cruise kept not working and when I replaced fuse it would work. Only for a little though, then I looked at manual and it says the fuse is for the brake position switch. I am presuming this is just like the old days and that is the brake light switch under the dash. They use to have two wires now there is like five. Anyways I do not see any bare wires or anything that would blow a fuse, is it common for these switches to go out or what??
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My dad's 1991 Ford ranger 3.0 2wd just died on him when he was driving home and I checked to see if the truck had a spark and it did not so I replaced the ignition control module, then ignition coil, then distributor and rotor cap(plug) and I put new plugs and wires on it a few months back too. I also checked to make sure that the timing chain was working as well (while I had the distributor cap off). Then I realized that the EEC maxi fuse was blown. I then found a fourm that said it might be the relay so I replaced the EEC and the fuel pump relays while I had them both out. Every time I put a new 30 amp fuse in the EEC slot and turn the key to start it the fuse blows and the truck won't start. What might be wrong?
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Fuse #41 keeps blowing...scan tool says o2 sensor heater circuit malfunction. Problem is that when the o2 sensors are unplugged it keeps blowing fuse the second I hit the key. Where this short would be? I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere. ( I'm new to this forum and I'm sure there is a sticky somewhere..
DTC codes: P1451, P0743. P0750. P0760. P0765. P1747. P0135. P1409. P0755. P0155
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Since last summer my truck keeps blowing fuse 26 and then I have no reverse lights. If I replace the fust its ok for a bit but blows again the same day sometime. The book says its the fuse for revers and overdrive. The overdrive button on the tree shifter stops working too but the truck does not seem to be revving any higher so I think the overdrive itself is fine. I can't find the short but its got to be shorting somewhere...
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I recently got a ranger from my buddy and it keeps blowing the EEC fuse in the engine compartment. We have replaced the EEC relay and the EEC power relay. As soon as you turn the key it is blowing the fuse.
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My 1996 Ford Ranger's Fuel Pump- Fuse keeps on blowing... (Fuel pump is new)... We need to find where the short is coming from!
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I've got an 86 ranger sport and I'm having trouble with the lights. The turn signals work, and ALL 4 bulbs in the back are new. The brake light fuse keeps blowing, and the fuse for the tail lights is good but they won't come on at all. I was told there was a direct short somewhere, does that sound about right? And is there a common place where they tend to short out?
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Need to diagnose this before I start ripping wires:
Truck started blowing the # 8 fuse under the hood tonight (15 amp #8 - trailer tow electronic brake illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil fuse) which also controls the dash board lights (can't see gauges at night) and the tail light lights (brakes lights work) are out too. Figure I have a short somewhere.
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The dome light/under hood light keeps blowing the fuse. I can't tear the entire interior out to try and chase down the short. Just wondering if any common area this circuit shorts out!
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I have a 2009 Corolla LE and the radio does not work. It keeps popping the fuse for the radio under the hood. Is this a common problem? If not any system wiring diagram? I am about to take the car on a big trip and if I cant get the radio to function....its gonna be a long ride...
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.4L that keeps blowing the ECU fuse under the hood when the ignition is turned on. We have replace the fuel pump and the inertia switch. I have tested the relay, ignition failure sensor, both coils and O2 sensor wiring.
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Driving home from work (a 30 minute hwy cruise) I had to stop for a traffic light. As was sitting there I hear a thumping noise from under the hood, otherwise it was running the same as always. Got it home and I didn't hear it anymore, looked under the hood while idling, seen nothing, shut it off. top rad hose had a slight amount of pressure, started it and it quickly built pressure and felt a rhythmic thumping in hose and it got fricking hot quickly. I figure either a head gasket or cracked head.
I just recently did an aggressive cooling system flush using Prestone heavy duty cooling system flush (can only get this at a dealer) because the previous own neglected it, and it blew a head gasket, tons of rust inside when I did it. I'm gonna borrow a tester to check for exhaust gas in the cooling system and what did it end up being? The guy I bought it from (the previous owners mechanic) put 1 or 2 head gaskets on it.
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1991 2.3 l. Thought I had an exhaust manifold Leak. Replaced gasket. New gasket didn't work. Removed gasket and mounted manifold to engine metal to metal, still and noise. Installed New manifold with gasket. Still same noise. Am thinking noise not coming from manifold. Torqued all bolts to spec. Could it be lifters .
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My battery went flat and to compound my misery, when I went to open the hood, the cable was snapped. How I can open the hood without using the release cable ? I'd rather not have to pay for it to be taken to the mechanic and then also pay to have the battery changed !
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I just got my grandpa's 2002 Ford Ranger Edge after waiting years to obtain it. It runs great the only problem is that there is NO power to the radio what so ever. The truck belonged to the family and every one drove it but no one knows what happened.. There is no power to Fuse 28 however 12V to all other fuses that have to deal with the radio.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai elantra GLS. I have a HID kit with a relay kit installed. It's been working just fine for 2 years now (2 years as of may) with no problems.
About two weeks ago my lights (hid low beams) wouldn't turn on right away. It would take multiple tries to get the lights to turn on. So I friend the usual methods....replacing the bulbs,replacing the ballasts,still the same issue.
So as of last night the passenger side light went out completely. I put in a new bulb,new ballast and still nothing. I bought a new relay kit (harness) and replaced it all and it still won't cut on the passenger side bulb!!!
So I went to check the fuses and there's no where in the fuse panel where it says low beams or headlights!! After reading I'm hearing it's in the smart junction box. In there is there a specific fuse for the right headlight? Do I need to replace the whole smart junction box? Where is the smart junction box?
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I have a 98 Ranger 3.0 with a standard transmission. The truck has 240,500 miles so far. It runs just as good as the day I got it 11 years ago, doesn't use any oil and still gets 23 MPG. Last fall, it developed what sounds like an exhaust leak under the hood. It seems to be coming from the area of the EGR valve. The trouble is that I can't feel it or smell it. I have carefully felt the entire length of the tube running from the EGR to the exhaust manifold and cannot feel any leaks. There is no soot or any other evidence of an exhaust leak.
The noise isn't there for the first minute or so that the truck is running. I would think that if I had a cracked manifold or some other such leak, it would be worse when the engine is cold but this is not the case for me. It is most noticeable when pulling a hill as slow speeds in a higher gear. I have checked for codes (no CEL) and there are none. When I first heard it I figured that I would wait until it gets a little worse and I would be able to find it. Its been been over 8 months now it has remained the same.
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I've a 1994 Ranger XLT 4.0L with a missing fuse panel cover. I'm trying to get the horn to work and we've traced the problem to a missing fuse. Unfortunately, there are 3 empty fuse slots and no info on their rating or use. Where I can get the proper info. Truck was a salvage, no ops manuals, and sloppy work putting it together.
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I have a 1995 BMW 525i and the fuse for the AC keeps blowing after a few minutes. It's #9 in the fuse box. Before the fuse blows the AC works fine. I can't find any visible problems. Is there a common problem that I can check?
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