My front disks are pulsing & the thickness is near minimum, so I guess I'll have to replace them soon. Is any particular brand better than others?
These stock ones are made by Bosch and I'm not impressed with their lack of resistance to warpage. I see "Drilled and Slotted" available at Rockauto. What's your experience? Are they any good?
Looking for a good write to change the front rotor (BIG CRACKS IN IT) on a 97 auto locking 4X4 hubs? Any special tools etc...?
View 7 RepliesYesterday, I noticed that my right front brake caliper seemed to be sticking. This morning I jacked up the front end, and could barely turn the right front wheel when it was off the ground. So, I have concluded that that caliper is sticking. So, here is the question(s): what is the best way to repair this (new caliper, rebuilt caliper, or rebuild it myself), do I need to do both sides the same or can I just do the one that is acting up, and should I expect to pay. I have some mechanical ability, but that Haynes manual doesn't make too much sense to me. Getting it professionally repaired is extremely inconvenient, I need to be back at school (300 miles away) Tuesday evening, and probably couldn't get it in to get it done before then.
View 12 Replies2000 Ranger, see my sig.
Just had to swap out the pads on my truck yesterday. The pedal was pretty mushy and I was getting shaking in the steering wheel when the brakes got warm. Shaking wasn't all the time, only after they had been used quite a bit - say after city use and the brakes had to be applied suddenly. So I popped off the tires and swapped out the pads and replaced the brake fluid - flushed it.
On the driver side front, the pads barely had any real wear and the anti-rattle clip was all messed up. It was installed properly, but it looked like the pads had smashed into it. The rotor appeared to be warped, or at least out of round - but just barely. You could see it wobble slightly in one spot if you spun the hub with the caliper removed. The caliper itself was sticking slightly.
I didn't see any evidence of damage, the brakes flushed just fine although the fluid was incredibly dirty (because I haven't done it in a long while). On the passenger side front, the pads were worn down to the level I would have expected given the mileage. The wear was even.
My question ultimately is this - is the out of round hub the culprit here? Might there be something else going on like a caliper problem? Ultimately I plan on having the rotors surfaced - one of them certainly needs it and with new pads I might as well do it anyway.
98 Ranger Front brake lines Too short! they kink in sharp turns and wear out then start to seep then eventually leak and need replacement. Checked parts references and the lines have been considered stock. Not sure if I have a 1/2 year model.
View 1 RepliesMy front driver side brake line broke. It had a typical double flare fitting at the caliper but at the distribution block on the other end it had a flared fitting that would be used on a industrial hydraulic unit. I took it to the NAPA store and they told me to cut the nut off the old line and put it new line and double flare it. I did and it leaks. Do I need a special fitting on the end that goes the distribution block?
View 2 RepliesI replaced my warped front brake rotors a couple thousand miles ago and all was fine but when I went to swap over to my snow tires, I can see that the outer part of the rotor has been rubbing on the caliper bracket. This is happening on both front rotors. Could my new rotors be too thick or something?
View 4 RepliesI noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2014 Supercab Ecoboost F150, which has 37k KM on it (23k miles). I work at sea for 4 weeks on / 4 weeks off so the truck sits a fair bit. I had it in the dealer for scheduled servicing and they noticed the inside pads on both front brakes were wearing significantly more than the outside (4mm vs 7mm). The lube guy at the time had suggested sticking calipers and that they'd be warranty.
A few days later I brought the truck back in to have the brakes looked at and an unrelated warranty item done. They looked and said the calipers aren't sticking and the rotors are grooved and rusted, particularly the inside surface. They wanted to put new pads on and turn the rotors for 400 bucks.
I had a hard time believing it wasn't the calipers, and I was having a hard time getting a good explanation from the service writer of what was going on. So I took the truck back and pulled the pass side tire off in the driveway to take a good look.
As far as I can tell, the calipers are free. The slide pins are nicely lubed and are free, and the pads are free to move in the anti-rattle clips. I squeezed the piston back with a set of C clamps and it seemed to be good. Also, the pads are wearing more or less evenly (not tapered or anything), just the inside is worn significantly more than the outside.
So, rotors wearing out in 23k miles? They aren't really warped, just heavily grooved. My theory at this point is that the weeks the truck spends sitting allows too much corrosion to build up on the rotor, which is getting caught up and wearing down the pads and rotor. Maybe the outside of the rotor isn't nearly as bad because it gets hosed down and washed more frequently?
Inside rotor surface
Outside rotor surface
Inside pad surface.
I still have 7 months of bumper to bumper warranty. Ford says the only cover brakes if the damage is caused by a caliper, so I think I'm out of luck on that front.
I replaced the pads and rotors on my 05 Civic 3000 miles ago. Now it is pulsing badly again when stepping on the brakes. I can feel the pulse in the brake pedal and the steering wheel. What should I be looking for when I pull off the wheels again.
View 8 RepliesI have a problem with the front rotors on my '01 Impala warping. The pulsing is really bad when decelerating from highway speed. They will last maybe a month after installing before they start to warp again. I purchase my parts at the local NAPA store. Is there something I could be doing wrong during installation or it bad parts (cheap material)?. Could it be an issue with other front end components?. The car has 173,000 miles on it.
View 19 RepliesOk so we just replaced our front and rear brake pads and had the rotors turned. Our rear brakes are fine but both our front brakes now make a clunking/popping noise when we brake.
View 4 RepliesI have a 10 inch lift and 37's on my excursion 2000 7.3l. I need to upgrade the breaks, the tires make it very hard to stop.
View 1 RepliesI have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4. One winter while 4 wheeling I happened to get into some snow that just kept getting deeper until i got stuck, So i had to back out, after doing that i noticed that the brake light and the abs light were on, then for about a year after that it would just come on and go off. For the past 6 months it has stayed off until you press the brake all the way down to the floor , then it comes on. If you shut off the truck and restart it it will be off until you press the brakes all the way down again. if you get the light to come on and drive with it like that, then when you shut it off and turn it on it will still be on and wont come off until the truck cools down. there is nothing wrong with the brakes, new calipers, new pads, and no leaks that i've noticed. I was told the rotors look a little thin though. I don't know if this is related, but it seems when you start the truck after driving it with the light on, it will idle rough or even stall. but after you rev it 3-4 times it will run smoothly.
View 14 RepliesOf course the month my inspection is due, my e-brake light comes on, and I have no clue why. I use my ebrake religiously.
View 12 RepliesI have a '79 F150 4wd and was wondering what would indicate a caliper needing replacement. I'm already going to replace everything on my rear brakes, they are completely trashed. However, the fronts seem OK, NO indications of leaks or seizing both sides of the rotors appear to be evenly "used" I guess. The inner pads do seem to be thicker than the outer pads is this normal? Anything I should be specifically looking for before I have the rotors turned and put a new set of pads on?
View 5 RepliesHaving a problem with the brake lights. When the brake pedal is pressed, the running lights (including dash lights, parking lights, and the low power filament in tail light) turn on, but no brake lights. When the lights are turned on and brake pedal is pressed, the brake lights do not turn on at all. The 4 way flashers and signal lights work correctly with lights on and off. Things I have tried:
Replaced the tail light bulbs.
Checked fuses (#5, #10).
Disassembled the brake switch and bypassed it with a jumper wire.
Checked the grounds (tail lights, rear ground, drivers inner fender).
Tried to trace the wiring. Didn't see any noticeable damage, but the wiring is in a loom so it is hard to see.
Used contact cleaner on brake switch, rear wiring harness, body harness.
Still hoping it may be something simple that I've overlooked.
Under mild-heavy braking, the rear brakes on my ranger lock up... EVERYTIME. Not just when its wet, or humid. Everytime I hit the brakes hard they lock. I think I'm getting little, to no pressure to the front brakes either. Could it be just a Proportioning valve?
Truck is a 94' 4.0l V6, RCLB, Auto, 4X4.
I've got a 97 Ranger that popped a brake line. The rigid line burst above the rear axle, in the section that comes from the frame rail to the flexible "down" line.
Trouble is, the rigid line that burst disappears between the frame rail and the fuel tank and then comes out a DIFFERENT SIZE where it goes into the proportioning valve.
Looking for a diagram of that line as it travels forward along the frame rail or know where it changes size?
It is a 1994 Ranger XLT, Regular cab, two wheel drive, manual transmission and I think it has rear ABS. A front brake line blew which drain the master cylinder. Also a couple of pieces of brake line at the rear had to be replace along with the rear wheel cylinders. After installing the new brake system components we were trying to bleed the system. After reading the repair manual I had it said that vehicles with rear ABS you are to bleed the ABS module before bleeding the rest of the system. There is a module where the book described it (driver's side inside the frame rail) with brake line running to it. I am assuming this is the rear ABS module? I didn't see anything that looked like a bleeder on the module. Where to look? Also when I open the bleeders on the rear wheel cylinder no brake fluid came out.
View 14 RepliesDid a complete rear brake job on a 90 Ranger including a pair of Pronto brake drums. Here are some videos of the problem.
Wheel and tire with new brake drum. Bad wobble.
Wheel and tire with brake drum - YouTube
Wheel and tire installed without brake drum. No wobble.
Wheel and tire without brake drum - YouTube
Brake drum only. Bad wobble
Brake drum - YouTube
Bare axle. No wobble.
Bare axle - YouTube
So is it safe to conclude the brake drum is bad? The other side is worse. I cleaned the axle surface so its flat. Wheels and tires are new.