Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Engine Idles Oddly - Slows And Speeds Back Up When Stopped
Mar 7, 2013
96 Ranger x cab 4.0 ltr automatic... Starts fine, runs fine until I stop.
When I stop, the engine idles oddly - it slows and speeds back up, tachometer and the battery gauges both lower just a bit and immediately return to normal. When the headlights are on, they dim in rhythm when the gauges dip. It does not do this in park or neutral.
Sometimes it does it right away. Sometimes it doesn't do this at all. Of course it did not do this when I took it to the shop. The battery is nearly new. Cables are fine. Alternator checked out ok.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 96 ranger with the l4. Right before I bought my newish truck last December, it's started miss firing and running really bad. I replaced the spark plug wires, most of the spark plugs, and both coil packs. Didn't work at all. Then I bought my new truck and parked. Fast forward to now. Fired it up, ran REALLY bad. We changed the wiring order from the 96 order to the 99 order.
But the truck idles from 500rpm (barely running) and randomly jumps up to 2-3000rpm and then back down. Driving it has NO power, rev it and it stays at 2-3000 for quite awhile. Sometimes it randomly dies. REALLY need to get it running quick and cheap. Getting ready to sell my daily driver to find something else and I need something to drive while I hunt for another truck.
View 1 Replies
2000, 2.5L standard transmission. IAC replaced about 2 years ago, DPFE sensor and vacuum hoses replaced early last summer. Truck has been running just fine until I washed it last night. Went to work, and when coming to a stop and pressing in the clutch, engine starts to race without coming back to idle. Had to turn the truck off in order to get the engine from racing. Same thing on the way home. What else can/should I be looking at? I did not open the hood to wash the engine off, so it can't be water from the wash.
View 7 Replies
96 Ranger 2.3 5 speed, 2wd. 212k on the clock.
Bought this from my BIL last week. CEL was on so I ran the codes. replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAF (with CRC MAS cleaner), replaced the EGR solenoid (physically broken). The first code showed this was throwing the code. That code (p1409) went away but p0402 showed it's head. replaced the DPFE sensor, disconnected the battery for an hour and am now code free.
Now it idles like crap, up and down with A/C on or off to nearly dying and does eventually die. Disconnected the MAS and no change. Cleaned the AIC no change, replaced the AIC with no luck. Checked for any obvious vacuum leaks around items I messed with. Found nothing. With engine running I disconnected the vacuum to the EGR valve and idle smooths out. Feel a small vacuum tug from the hose, nothing at the valve.
Haven't changed the PCV or cleaned the throttle body. Could it be the EGR valve since removing the vacuum seemed to work?
Side note, BIL's mechanic told him THREE YEARS AGO the CEL was 'probably a O2 sensor' and that is doesn't do anything and no need to fix.
Still no codes and still no power. Can't hear any vacuum leaks. Bought new plugs and wires but haven't installed them yet. EGR? TPS?
View 14 Replies
My ranger has a 3.0 v6 engine it idles high and accelerates on its own sometimes. Sometimes its more often then others. I turn my key about three times thinkin its reseting the computer and stop it and it does. But I keep hitting a dead end and don't know what to do about it.
View 10 Replies
My son just purchased a 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3l 5 speed it is a nice little truck. But I have a question when you press in the clutch it acts like the choke has come on it idles way to high. When you come to a complete stop it is a few minutes before it goes back to its regular idle. Is it suppose to do that?
View 9 Replies
I'm having a bit of trouble with my fathers '03 Ranger Edge 4.0L. It has about 100k miles on it, and we keep it very well maintained. This is the first major problem we've had with it.
When the problem first occured, it had been driven about 30 miles on the highway and about 5 miles after getting off the highway, he pulled up to an intersection and stopped. As he started accelerating again, it all of a sudden started sputtering, surging (almost exactly as if it were running out of gas), and then stalled. It continues to exhibit this behavior. It will start and idle fine, but struggle and then stall when given any amount of throttle. It's also an automatic transmission if that makes any difference.
Fast forward to this past week after we had it towed home. We have checked the fuel pressure, and its dead on at about 64psi. We changed the fuel filter, changed the PCV valve, changed the upstream O2 sensor, put in a new air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, and cleaned the intake of the throttle body. We're now at a loss as to what could be causing the problem. The CEL is not on, and there are no codes being shown when we plugged it in. We also thought it may have been bad gas, so we drained the tank and put fresh gas in from our preferred station. The plugs and wires are also fairly new, only about 4k miles on them.
Are we missing anything here? What else we could try? The absolute last resort is taking it to a shop, we're going through a rough patch with finances.
View 3 Replies
I now have a 1991 ranger 3.0 super cab. I need a step by step walkthrough of how to time it. Keep in mind that I ha the distributor out while turning the engine over so I need from start to finish, including the spout connector. It runs right now but idles high at the start and the. Stumbles down to about 500rpm and sometimes dies....
View 12 Replies
Where to start looking to resolve this code. It is not an intermittent code. It returns after about 3 to 4 key turns. Truck idles a little rough but runs fine. I have looked up the code and causes but wondering how to deal with this directly and fixed it. I'm wanting to sell my truck for something bigger and would like to solve the issue before hand. 2003 Ford Ranger Edge...
View 4 Replies
its 1986 Ranger with a 2.9L V6 Auto 4x4, well to start with it seriously over fueling also it idles very roughly and even stalls out sometimes, when I'm trying to hold it at a speed it acts like it is missing (I guess that's from over fueling as well and it also pukes out lots of black smoke, it goes through way too much gas for a V6), but when I speed up fairly hard it acts fine until I try to maintain speed again, I have already put a tune up into it and a new EGR as well a fuel regulator and how to fix it?
View 14 Replies
ok so let me start by saying, my name is Tim, I own a 1999 Ford Ranger 6 cyl, 3.0L truck, I bought it brand new in 1999 and drove it for a few years and then took it off the road for 3-4 years then last year I went to put it back on the road and I couldn't get it running.
I took it to the dealer and they replaced a key switch module. since then the ranger seems to lack power. It also idles erratically when you first start it in the morning too.
not sure whats going on here but the engine light is on,
I get codes P0171 & P0174 (too lean bank 1 and too lean bank 2)
I would also like to note that I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, transmission filter, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, PCV valve, EGR valve, TPS sensor, idle control solenoid, fuel pressure regulator & new plugs. I have also checked for vacuum leaks with no avail.
View 6 Replies
1999 ranger, 2.55 speed. truck idles with very high rpm's when driving and shifting gears. have changed the AIC, mass air sensor. Throttle position sensor and still does it. the AIC has been changed 5-6 times in 6-8 months as parts store kept telling me it was that. What can i look at, check, etc...
View 6 Replies
I have a really nice 1986 Ranger XLT with a 2.9 V6 (injected) and OD Automatic with about 135k miles. I've had the truck for over ten years and have been pretty happy with it. I'm still trying to correct a couple of nuisance items:
1. Sometimes it runs smoothly, and at others it has a rough idle, and once in a while it will even stall. Before it stalls, it idles or runs roughly, and will miss erratically. When it quits, it does not fade out like it is running low on gas; it quits suddenly, like the ignition is turned off. If I am driving at highway speeds, sometimes it will buck as it misses, and sometimes stalls out. But it always starts up right away afterwards. This does not happen often, but when it does, it happens several times over hours or days, and then goes away by itself for months, even years, and then comes back for another round.
I was hoping whatever was wrong would totally fail, but it has been several years and is not getting better, nor worse. Fuel mileage varies, too, from 16 to high 20's MPG. I have new low- and high-pressure fuel pumps (dual tanks), new gas and air filters, checked all the electrical connections, put in a new ignition switch, new O2 sensor, Air Flow sensor, EGR, replaced all the vacuum lines, new battery and cables, new starter, all new electrical relays, fuel pressure regulators, new fuel pump inertia switch, tuned up engine (incl. wires, cap, rotor, ign module, plugs and timing), and cleaned out the already sparkling-clean tanks.
2. My oil pressure will drop at idle to low-normal when the engine is warm. It never goes to below Normal on the gauge. I have replaced the gauge, sending unit, and oil pump. This is a long-term issue, and is not getting any better or worse.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1994 Ford Ranger with 4.0 V6 Automatic. The problem is when it idles it idles low and surges up/down and pushes a very small amount of black smoke puffs and smells like gas. I have installed new coil, new wires, new plugs, new ect, new crankshaft position sensor, and new maf. It has new intake manifold, new injectors, new alternator and it still does the exact same thing. Nothing is phasing it. I ran the key on/engine off test and got egr codes and a map sensor code, then ran the engine running test and got 998 and 126 code. The 998 code says that its basically a hard fault/ have no idea.
I do know this is a donor engine out of another year not sure what year, but i know when i ordered the coolant temp sensor the only ones that would plug into it are the years 1990-1993. Now here's my other question, why would the computer give me a map sensor code when truck doesn't have a map sensor? It has MAF sensor, and why egr codes? The truck doesn't have egr and never came with it. I do know I've unhooked battery and replaced the maf and its like it doesn't even recognize it? Could it be the ecm/computer bad or needs flashed?
View 5 Replies
Quick back story I bought a 1999 Ford Ranger It is a 4 cyl with an auto trans the guy said it had some trouble with the tranny (major understatement) he also forgot to mention he cut out the CAT. so running a 4 banger off the header.
When you start the truck it rough idles but you have to hold the gas down til it warms up. You can shift into reverse but it labors the motor and the motor will not up the rpms kinda stays at idle and wants to die no matter how hard you accelerate and you can't move up a slight incline.
When you shift into drive you have to rev the motor to 3 grand an it will catch then move slowly forward. no matter how high the revs go. The fluid levels are a tad above the full level and a bit dark for my liking.
Ok, I used an OBDII scan tool from the parts store and it came up with 3 codes P0351, P0352, P0500. From my internet search the first two seem to be coil related which explains why the motor is running like garbage. The last may or may not have to do with what the tranny is doing.
View 2 Replies
I have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
View 13 Replies
My o/d has started shifting in and out at speeds over 50mph. It looks like it happens for the tiniest changes in engine loading. A windy day plays havoc and mild inclines. Sometimes the o/d light starts blinking until I switch off then operates normally. Extended warm-up driving seems to work. I've been told the rear axle speed sensor may be going bad but I have no confidence in the advice. I am driving an '02 ranger, 3L flex fuel, 2wd and just went over 100k. The atf is at the correct level but the fluid needs changing in my opinion. There are no engine codes.
View 5 Replies
My ranger started to squeak at low speeds a few months ago (when it was pretty cold) and still does it in the mornings when I first start driving it. It squeaks from around 2mph up to 25-30 and then it seems to go away (or I can't hear it anymore cause of other noises haha). It is from underneath the truck somewhere, and not related to clutch or brakes. It seems to do it in the mornings only (or when it's cold) and increases in frequency when your speed increases. Not engine related at all.
My first thought was U joints or the driveshaft rubbing, since the squeaking was directly related to how fast you were moving and clutch in/out and brakes didn't change the noise at all. I couldn't find anything rubbing on the driveshaft.
Changed the U-joints since they were kinda old, but this didn't fix the issue. Next I pulled the rear brakes and checked all the springs and such, nothing I could see was wrong. Greased up the shoe contact points and put it all back together.
It was still squeaking, so I checked the wheel bearings for play and spun them while each corner was jacked up, the bearings seemed fine and didn't make any noise when I spun each tire. I have transmission and rear differential fluid.
I've checked all of the stuff I can think of and am kind of at a loss as to the next step. I guess the things it could possibly be are transmission bearings (input/output, since those spin all the time right?), pinion bearings or rear end bearings, wheel bearings (even though i've checked them), or ??
I've driven a chevy with bad bearings in the rear end, and this doesn't sound like that. The chevy sounded like a dull roar at speed, and kinda droned a bunch. this is a very distinct squeaking sound, very similar to a squeaking bearing on the idler pulley or something like that.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2001 Ranger XLT 4x4 with 38,000 miles. When I am at very low speeds (like 5 mph) and usually pulling into a parking spot, the ABS kicks on. I've heard it's the "hub" in my wheel but the dealer won't know which one to replace. Dealer said, take your hands off the wheel and see which way the truck pulls when the ABS is kicking on....well at 5 mph it doesn't pull. At $300 just for the part, I need to know which wheel it is!
Also a friend of mine had this happen to his Chevy Silverado and the replacement hub broke again so they just turned off the ABS....Is this OK to do if I don't want to fix this problem?
View 12 Replies
When I get over 45MPH, I notice a whop, whop sound. It speeds up as my speed increases. I have had the tires check and rebalanced, but that wasn't it. I have tried just revving the engine when in neutral, but I don't hear the noise. Could it be u-joints, or is there something else?
View 9 Replies
I have a 1999 Ranger 4x4 4.0 5 speed step side...in Jalapeno no less. Anyway, for the past 5 years or so the check engine light has been on. When it came on I did nothing because nothing seemed to change and I was too broke to fix it anyway. Well, just lately the check engine light has started to flicker or go out completely.
When this happens the truck seems sluggish and the A/C will stop working. As long as the check engine light is ON the truck runs like it always has, when it goes off the issues start. If I am stopped with the clutch depressed the idle will drop down to 500 rpms or so.
Kinda hoping it is something I can fix or at least learn about so I can have an intelligent conversation with a mechanic.
View 6 Replies
