Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Dome Light Not Working And 5 Beeps
Mar 16, 2014
I have a 1999 mazda b2500 and unable get my dome light to work. Replaced the light bulbs so not issue.
Issue #2 When I start truck I get 5 beeps for 5 times and after truck running for extended periods beeps again.
How do I repair these issues?
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My dome light will not turn off. I have tried the WD40 in the latch trick and replaced both of the switches. The dimmer is not all the way up. I don't know what else to do.
98 Ranger XLT, V6, Manual windows.....
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How to keep the freaking dome light from automatically turning itself off?? I understand it's a battery life saving function but I find it ANNOYING and would like to stop it.
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So I locked my keys in the truck and road side assistance pried the door with the hand pump airbag. After which the dome light won't turn off. The drivers door which they pried remains open about 2mm more then the passage light but if I lean on it the light still dosent shut off. This is a 2010 ford ranger. What I should try/check first?
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So I read the posts on dome lights staying on and the solution to spray WD40 in the latch but my problem is the opposite. The light sometimes comes on, sometimes it doesn't, when the door is opened, same if using the dash switch, sometimes light, sometimes darkness. Sometimes it just barely lights up, and I see its an LED in there. 2004 2wd Edge 2 door.....
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I have a '96 Ranger XLT. Just recently the dome light stays on while the truck is running. I have checked both doors and door frames. For the life of me I do not see a switch. The light does go off eventually after the truck is shut off (without killing the battery). What or where is the switch for this light..
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I lost the windshield wipers, speedometer, dome light, door alarm. Check all the fuses I can find all are ok. Whats wrong.
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I have the infamous ABS light & speedo not working on my 2000 Ranger. I replaced the ABS Speed sensor on the rear diff as has been suggested on many posts, but it didn't solve the problem. Did I get a bad part or is there something else I should go after?
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The dome light and door ajar light on my 97 Ranger stay on. The switches are good, is there a relay or other device in the circuit?
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The air bag light stays on & the blower in not working. I checked the fuses good.
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I just bought an older 1995 Ranger XLT 4.0 I was told that the truck is stuck in overdrive. The overdrive light is not working and the button does not respond. It shifts smooth but run away with it's self. It is not shifting a lot going up hill and curves.
I got a diagnostic and it did not show codes. I was told the trani has had an oil change and filter with no metal parts in the oil. Since the overdrive switch is know for a short in the steering column maybe when they looked at it they did not know what they were doing.
I am driving it only once or so a week. But don't want to hurt it. A friend did the first work and had it diagnostic done yesterday.
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Not sure the problem is related.
The horn no longer works. The air bag light is on, on the dashboard.
I have checked all the fuses and they appear to be good.
How would I diagnose this problem?
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What is the likely culprit? No other electrical issues, brake light quit working when brake is depressed, all other lights work including blinkers/running/head. Was going to break out a wiring diagram....
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I noticed the passenger side on/off switch for the airbag doesn't illuminate anymore on my 98 Ranger. Whether I turn the key on the switch to on or off it doesn't illuminate either way. The airbag light on the dash flashes showing, counting a code 27 and then it stays on. I also noticed the seat belts on symbol doesn't illuminate and in the owner's manual it says it should illuminate and chime. I remember it use to illuminate but I don't remember a chime.
Someone with a 98 that has a seat belt reminder light that illuminates and chimes until you fasten the seat belt? I don't know if that and the airbag code is related. But I want to fix both? I guess the simplest one to tackle first would be the seat belt light/chime. I don't see a fuse for it. I guess I need to know first is it really suppose to chime.
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 Crew cab
Wanted to change out factory bulbs to LED's. The factories were working just fine, just wanted LED's. Broke a couple of center bulb holder's/clamp. Don't really know what they are called. Went to junk yard got a couple of used ones, those worked because when we opened the doors on wrecked trucks Dome lights came on! Got home put them in and NOTHING. No dome, no map lights with LED's. Changed back to factory bulbs and only map lights come on, NO dome lights on front or back and my 3rd brake light quit along with the 2 bed lights. Checked the wiring plug and have power to one wire. What fuses would I need to check or to check where next? Owner's manual is not very specific about which fuse.
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We initially had problems with the functioning of the power window. Changed the motor and the relay. All seemed well. Now when the car is initially turned on the dome light has no power, the wipers or the power windows. After a few minutes the power may return on not at all......
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My Dome lights don't work when you open the door. I can manually turn them on though. Also door ajar light is on. Are these issues caused by the door latch switch? Also have no fog lights I replaced the switch and bulbs. I have a 2003 F250.....
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My Dad just took delivery on a 2008 King Ranch F150 last night and after he got it home, he noticed the dome lights did not work. We checked all the fuses and bulbs. Also tried adjusting the dimmer switch, but we cant figure out why the dome light will not turn on.
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I can't find out why my dome light doesn't work. I threw a bulb at it first, and then a tester but found no voltage with the door open or the dome lights dimmer roller clicked over to "interior lights on". I do get a door chime with the door open, so seemingly the door switch is working. Fuses 4 and 14 are good. They seem to be the related fuses.
Here's what I've checked.
1.. Fuses are all good.
2.. Removed and tested the relay. It tested properly, closing the large contacts when voltage is applied across the two coil terminals.
3.. 12V is present at the large left contact in the relay plug.
4.. I applied voltage to the relay output pin (the large contact next to ^^) in the fuse panel and get the dome/cargo lights to illuminate, so I know the wiring from the relay to the lights is good.
5.. The two smaller relay pins upper and lower look to be the relay coil/turn on contacts. (The middle contact is not used) There is 12v on one of them and it seems the other should be grounded with a door open or when the dash roller is rolled past the detent. I'm not getting this grounding signal.
6.. I do get a warning chime if I open the door while headlights are on etc, so it looks like the door switches are working.
Just got back in from some more testing... Here's a breakdown of how the relay works:
- Relay socket we're looking at is the upper socket.
- High amp 12V power is on the left large vertical contact. The relay's function is to port this voltage to the middle large vertical contact. (the load contact)
- The middle vertical contact (load contact) goes to the dome light and cargo lights.
- The upper horizontal contact is one end of the relay throw coil. This one has 12V present when probed.
- The middle horizontal contact is not used. (actually it's an empty socket with no female terminal behind it.)
- The lower horizontal contact needs ground applied to it to get the throw coil to close the high amp contacts.
With the relay plugged in, I was able to sneak a thin probe to the lower horizontal contact and ground it. The relay activated and the lights came on. So, for some reason I'm not getting the grounding signal to the relay with the dome light rocker or the doors open even though I get the door chime.
Apparently there is something between the door switches and the dome light/roller switch and the relay? Is this the GEM module? If so, I don't see the reason for anything between the switches and the relay? It should be a pretty basic relay circuit?
Is this something (GEM?) programmable, or testable? I don't want to throw parts at it. Looking for a wiring diagram, a diagnostic flow chart or a pin out?
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On a 1999 Excursion with a v10. I've got a strange problem. When the truck is left overnight, the battery is dead. Doing some testing, the is a serious draw through the dome light circuit that controls the Gem and the Tail Lights. If I pull that fuse each night, then the battery is fine. But I can't leave that fuse out, as the shifter interlock switch is disabled by this fuse. All the tail lights seem to work fine.
Dome lights do not come on. I've tested the bulbs. They're good. There is now power it seems to the dome light sockets. The door ajar light works, so I'm guessing all the switches are good.
I also have no power windows working. There is no 12v to the switch. But I heard about the Gem module as well. So I'm not sure if the Gem controls if there should be 12v to the switch all the time.
I pulled out the Gem. It looks good. No sign of corrosion or water.
Any thoughts on what to look for or how to troubleshoot this? Is there a way to test a Gem? Would a bad Gem cause the battery draw down?
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I have a 1999 Ranger 4x4 4.0 5 speed step side...in Jalapeno no less. Anyway, for the past 5 years or so the check engine light has been on. When it came on I did nothing because nothing seemed to change and I was too broke to fix it anyway. Well, just lately the check engine light has started to flicker or go out completely.
When this happens the truck seems sluggish and the A/C will stop working. As long as the check engine light is ON the truck runs like it always has, when it goes off the issues start. If I am stopped with the clutch depressed the idle will drop down to 500 rpms or so.
Kinda hoping it is something I can fix or at least learn about so I can have an intelligent conversation with a mechanic.
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