Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Dome Light Automatically Turning Itself Off?
Sep 29, 2015
How to keep the freaking dome light from automatically turning itself off?? I understand it's a battery life saving function but I find it ANNOYING and would like to stop it.
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My dome light will not turn off. I have tried the WD40 in the latch trick and replaced both of the switches. The dimmer is not all the way up. I don't know what else to do.
98 Ranger XLT, V6, Manual windows.....
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So I locked my keys in the truck and road side assistance pried the door with the hand pump airbag. After which the dome light won't turn off. The drivers door which they pried remains open about 2mm more then the passage light but if I lean on it the light still dosent shut off. This is a 2010 ford ranger. What I should try/check first?
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So I read the posts on dome lights staying on and the solution to spray WD40 in the latch but my problem is the opposite. The light sometimes comes on, sometimes it doesn't, when the door is opened, same if using the dash switch, sometimes light, sometimes darkness. Sometimes it just barely lights up, and I see its an LED in there. 2004 2wd Edge 2 door.....
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I have a 1999 mazda b2500 and unable get my dome light to work. Replaced the light bulbs so not issue.
Issue #2 When I start truck I get 5 beeps for 5 times and after truck running for extended periods beeps again.
How do I repair these issues?
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I have a '96 Ranger XLT. Just recently the dome light stays on while the truck is running. I have checked both doors and door frames. For the life of me I do not see a switch. The light does go off eventually after the truck is shut off (without killing the battery). What or where is the switch for this light..
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I lost the windshield wipers, speedometer, dome light, door alarm. Check all the fuses I can find all are ok. Whats wrong.
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The dome light and door ajar light on my 97 Ranger stay on. The switches are good, is there a relay or other device in the circuit?
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I cannot figure out the interior lights by using the dimmer switch. Starting the vehicle and then trying to turn on either passenger or driver front dome light will not work. I continuously depress the right side of the dimmer switch it will turn on the REAR dome light and by depressing again it will shut off the REAR dome light. I can push either light in the front and it will not turn on. Once driving down the road and reaching a decent speed (40+) I can push the buttons and it will turn on and off by simply pushing the light. The buttons you use to turn on either light up front actually feels different---it easily "clicks" the light on.
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When I am at idle, the compressor keeps turning on and off every few seconds. It seems to work fine while driving. What do I need to do to fix this?
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I didn't really know where else to turn (no pun intended) every time I turn my wheel to the right the truck sputters out and dies, i checked the ignition switch, tightened her up and shes still killing the engine when i turn right. All other power remains on stereo, car charger etc. its not so bad on continuous turns i can just pop the clutch but for stopping and turning its a huge issue. Why turning left is fine but right kills the engine..wondering if maybe the prongs on the ignition switch may be bad?
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We initially had problems with the functioning of the power window. Changed the motor and the relay. All seemed well. Now when the car is initially turned on the dome light has no power, the wipers or the power windows. After a few minutes the power may return on not at all......
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The blinker in my 98 Mazda B4000 does not deactivate when turning right/left. The multi-function switch was replaced last year with an OEM part.
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It started with the cruise control turning off every once in a while. Then it would only stay on for 7-8 seconds, then eventually it would turn on, then shut right off. Now it won't even turn on.
When I did the diagnosis sequence (On, Resume, Coast, Set....) it blinked 3 times saying "Bad deactivation switch or circuit". So I replaced the blue switch on the brake pedal and it still doesn't engage.
It's a 4.0 liter with a manual tranny. I've been researching this a lot, and it seems in 2007 they changed up things probably because of the big recall.
I don't see any kind of deactivation switch around the master cylinder. It seems that was in use until 2006 or 2005.
I see a different kind of switch on the clutch pedal, thinking it must also have a deactivation switch. I see a long spring loaded type of switch with about 5-6 wires coming out of it, but I can't find any info on the web about that switch.
All three of my brake lights are working. It seemed to deteriorate rather quickly (Over the course of 3 days) and now it's completely dead.
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I noticed that my ABS was engaging when I would slow down to a stop while turning left. I pulled the fuse for the ABS just to make sure that's what was causing the pulsating brake, and it was. Anyway, if it's an ABS sensor problem, would it be the front passenger side sensor if it's only happening when I turn left? Is there a way to test this. Would a scanner detect it? It hasn't been throwing a code or anything. Just the ABS engaging while braking and turning to the left when it shouldn't be.
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1995 ranger 4,0 4x4... when started up, wipers go 2 times and then stop, but cant turn on again, also blower and 4WD stopped work....
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Having problems with their door locks attempting to activate when turning the ignition key? If so, how can I correct it or make repairs.
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While in the locked position, the steering wheel was purposely jerked hard to disable the mechanism on a 1996 Ranger. Now the truck will not steer easily or smoothly and a popping noise is evident when turning. I'm not concerned about having the wheel lock, but would like to be able to return driveability to normal.
The same guy who caused this damage also damaged the ignition. No key is needed to turn the switch now.
I'm lost as to how the steering locking mechanism works and wondering if I need to tear apart the column or if maybe there is a locking pin accessible that needs to be removed to regain driveability.
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I've been trying to figure out why the dome interior lights are not lighting up when a door is open, etc. The only time those lights come on is when i physically push the light in. I thought it could have been a fuse, however, I replaced the 10 amp room LP fuse, but still nothing.
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I had a problem with my truck about a week ago with the O/D light flashing and the ABS light on, I ended up taking the truck into my mechanic and he troubleshot everything and ended up finding out my trucks computer was fried. NOW, I want to know if the fact of me putting 31 inch tires on my truck was the reason for this happening or would it have been something else??? Because I really want to put the tires back on but I am afraid it might "burn" my computer again!
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Why do the rpm's run high on 2500 for 1-2 miles before shifting in 4th on my 2000 Ford Ranger XLT and sometimes inbetween the lower gears also. Other times, it runs ok. Why, also does the OD Light ( reading 'off' ) send the rpm's up to 2500?
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