I have a 1987 Ranger 2wd, 2.9, 5sp that feels like it is cutting out when accelerating. The only code in the computer (KOEO) is 67, which according to the manual is neutral drive switch (NDS) circuit open. What to look for? Can the neutral drive switch be the problem?
View 14 RepliesWhen I'm driving it starts to cutout (but it never dies) and it won't stop cutting out until I floor it and then it's fine for a little bit and it starts doing it again.
View 1 Replies97 ranger 2.3l ... I have a problem where I'm losing full power (like cutting out) while under acceleration it's only for a split second almost like a hesitation. I got p1443 for the first time today and I was looking at my fuel trims and I noticed my long term FT is at 99.2% and never changes while my short term goes between negative and positive no more than 6%positive and like -4% I assume this is normal for short term but I really am just guessing on that. I am thinking perhaps I need a new fuel pump...but maybe I'm wrong...truck has a new fuel filter and a new evap purge solenoid...
View 14 RepliesI recently picked up a 93 ranger sport 4x4 with 2.3L engine and 5spd.. Has run fine for the first 2 weeks of ownership but yesterday morning, it started cutting out on the highway. When I say cutting it is like all loss of power for a brief instant and then it right back without even losing any speed, I could watch tach drop from 2500 to 2k and then right back to 2500 again..
Did it sporadically all the way home about 10 miles sometimes once in a mile other times 6-7 times in a mile. Truck has 126k on it, and within last 26k miles PO replaced timing belt, coil packs, plugs, wires, ICM, and just before i picked it up from him a new EGR and fuel filter.
No check engine light
Fast forward to this AM
Wouldn't start at all, i can hear fuel pump spinning and she cranks and cranks but no start up.... played with multiple things including the ICM but found 2 of 3 heads rounded off so i cant remove it until i can get it in to my garage and dremel those suckers off..
Went and bought a replacement ICM figured i could plug it in run a ground from the bottom left hand bolt hole so i could get it fired up and in to my garage.. plugged the new one in grounded it and it still wouldn't start...
So I decided to replug the original ICM back in and grab my spark plug tester, remove number 3 plug wire on passengers side insert the tester and have my wife crank it over and wonder of wonder it fires up...
shut it down remove the tester and have her start it up again and it fires right back up so i let it warm up for 15 minutes.. grab my autoxray.. shut it down hook up the scan tool and run the KOEO scan.. gives me a passed 111 code... OK lets start it back up and run the KOER test.. wont start back up.. reinstall the spark plug tester to #3 wire and NOW it has no spark..
I have a 2002 ford ranger with the 2.3l and 5 speed.
Long story short, previous owner adjusted the time because he accidentally got the motor out of time (he thought it had the belt, not the chain). So he had to take the intake, fuel rails, fan, throttle body, etc. Off to get to the valve cover to re-time it with the timing kit. After it was put back together, it ran awful. I bought it, checked the time with the timing light and it was good. I replaced the spark plugs, and then realized he had forgotten to plug the camshaft positioning sensor back in. So I did, and that did the trick. From start to finish, the truck had those issues for about a year before I got it so it sat up for a little while. I have had it for 2 weeks now.
Now the problem...it idled great. But when I took it out for the test run, 1st gear shifted great, but at about 1700-2000 rpm (depending on the gear), it would almost seem to loose power, and then it would pick back up around 2400-2700 rpm like nothing had happened. You can sort of tell in 2Nd gear, but it is very noticeable in 3rd, 4th, and 5th. If i accelerate pretty slow, it doesn't happen. It only if i try to accelerate at a normal rate or if i am trying to get onto the interstate or pass someone. I ran some seafoam in it thinking maybe it just got gunked up from sitting for so long, but that only through an engine code saying my bank 3 was misfiring.
So I replaced the spark plugs (again), wires, and then the coil pack (the coil pack is what fixed it) and that got the code to go away and for it to stop missing, but the problem still was the same. It would take off great, and then it would seem to almost pause, and then pick power back up again. It wasnt feeling like it isn't getting enough fuel, it just wouldn't hardly pick up speed. It almost feels like I am riding a 2 stroke dirt bike. The power band is ehat should be normal on the truck, and before I hit the power band is how it feels when the truck has its little pausing episode. It's that noticeable to me.
So I thought maybe the fuel filter or sensors need cleaned/replaced..so yesterday I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned every sensor around the top of the engine, including the MAF sensor and made sure all bolts were tight and gaskets were good. I don't see and disconnected vacuum lines and none of them looked dry rotted. The only place air can get in that I see is the air filter box. The screws that hold the top half of the (stock) filter box are missing, so it is not sealed.
But what to check next. My only other thoughts are the catalytic converter (which it doesn't act like it's stopped up) or the fuel pump pressure being off. Also, it does sound like a lifter ticking in the motor, but previous owner said he thinks it did that before all these problems.
Also, right before I bought it, it sounded like the ujoint was squeaking (it rarely does it now) and now it has a crackling sound when accelerating at low-mid rpms coming from the middle or the back of the truck. It sounds similar to when you turn your hot vehicle off and the exhaust makes crackling noises sometimes.
I have a 2001 ranger 2wd with a 2.3. It has a miss when acceleration. There is no check engine light. I have changed: fuel filter. Plugs, wires, crank position. Sensor, cleaned mass air flow sensor. Ran 2 bottles of injector cleaner in it. Still missing???? It runs and idles great. Just has a miss in the lower RPM's 1000-2000 then goes away. I really don't wanna take it to a shop. What do you all think??
View 11 Replies1987 ranger 2.9l... My truck had no power while accelerating. We'll I changed fuel pump and filter. And still no power. I bought a computer and it tells me the map sensor is not at normal vaccum levels. The ego sensor is reading always rich. Egr valve not opening. Knock sensor was was going crazy. And computer couldn't raise engine speed above normal idle. Could all this be because of one sensor or should I just change it all.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 4.0 with the 5R55E transmission. My problem is while driving. It seems to have developed in the last few weeks.
The truck has a whirring noise, which changes as it shifts, which leads me to believe its tranny related. The noise isn't like a grinding.
Most noticeable when it downshifts from 2-1, but I've heard it when accelerating too.
I've investigated u-joints, and they are tight. My tranny fluid is not a dark red, and doesn't smell terrible. No shifting issues, except for the infamous 1-2 pause.
I will be doing a test on jack stands this weekend to listen outside the truck.
I just bought this truck last week. It has 55k on it, so I'm guessing it sat a lot. It seems to run great, but today on my drive to work it started having an intermittent bogging down when accelerating. It didn't seem to matter if I was accelerating soft or harder, or what rpm I'm at. It also did it when it was cold pulling off of my street and it did it once or twice after 15-20 minutes of driving. It just feels like I let off the gas for a moment, I can watch the tach drop about 500 rpm and then just as quick it picks right back up and is fine for a bit. I don't have any check engine light.
View 5 RepliesI got my b2500/ranger a couple of months ago and I've had very poor gas mileage. I replaced the air filter, changed the plugs, no luck. The truck has 169,000 miles. I haven't checked my exact gas mileage but from what i am seeing its horrible. I filled it up last night, not completely full but really close the full marker. In the morning i drove to school (7 miles) drove home, so 14 miles. Then i had to go back out by my school to pay back a friend. All in all about 28 miles. This cost me a little more than a quarter of a tank. The 2.5l has a 16 gallon fuel tank, so if my calculations are correct im getting about 8 miles to the gallon. I also took it the consideration that it was a half gallon from full.
And it wasn't just past below a quarter to full it was 3/4 of the way to a quarter from full. I know that i didn't test the mpgs "properly" but i think its close enough to draw a conclusion from. And keep in mind its not a 4.0, its a 2.5! Although i do think the engines size contributes to the mpgs because it takes ALOT to accelerate in this truck. At 2k rpm im barely accelerating from a stop light. And on the highway my engine stays a 2500 rpm doing 60-65. I am really hoping I can fix this because I don't want to drive around in a civic. Plus I need a truck for scrapping which is how I pay for gas as i am 17 and jobs are scarce. Also I know about cleaning the MAF butit has tamper proof torx on it which i do not have the tools to remove. I think it could also be the o2 sensors.
Yesterday I was driving around some back roads and I started to hear a ticking when I accelerated when I left my foot off the gas pedal it went away. But when i put my foot on the gas again it comes back. You really cant realize it when you have the radio on... Ive been experiencing rough idling when I come to fast stops and quickly speed up again.
The ticking seems to only happen after like 20 minutes of driving. Most of my trips are only 10 minutes, to either school or to work so it really doesn't happen very often... Although college will start in a few months (30 minute drive) so I wanna get this fixed before something major happen.
Also on a side note, when going up hills it feels like it has delayed shifting. I really don't want to put in anymore money into this truck...already put $ into it the first year of owning it. I guess the good thing is that I got it keeping my fingers crossed nothing is wrong with the transmission or motor, what is wrong?
*I have a 1995 v6 4.0 XLT ranger with 160,000 miles
MY 2001 Edge 4.0 5 speed auto has a noise while accelerating. It happens only when truck is first run and disappears after warming up after a few miles. It just turned 1500 miles. Can't figure out if it is from trans or possibly a speedo cable. It goes to the dealer next week.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 Ford Ranger Sport. RWD with the 4.0L. Currently Sitting at 46,000 Miles.
Where I am located, it is very cold. Downwards of 5 Degrees F. I just started noticing a strange sound in my truck. When accelerating from a stop light I hear a single knock, and to my ear it sound as if it was coming from the rear. First thing I did was check the U-Joint, but there is zero play and it is very tight.
After driving quite a lot and unable to diagnose the problem, I part and got out of my truck, only to hear that same noise when I stepped out of the truck. (I am not fat 195b lol). So I sat back down and I heard it again. Did this a few times and consistently heard it. I got into the bed of my truck and started to jump around and got the same knock.
I shook the exhaust pipe to see if it was making the noise, but it wasn't, which makes sense considering while driving over bumps I could not hear anything. I am totally lost as to what this could be....I want to add that I CANNOT feel any difference driving. Feels great.
My ideas on problems are as follows;
-Spare tire
-bushing
-loose bold
-leaf spring (maybe a hanger)
-The cold creating noise like always.
I have a 85 bronco 2, but i have no luck with responses in Bronco 2 forum, so here goes. It is the 2.8 carb, manual trans with 109K miles. Idles really well some hesitation when taking off but really bad miss and not power under acceleration. KOEO codes are 31 and 84 CM code 18. I have plugged the vacuum line to the EGR and have noticed a dramatic difference. I have tried to rev the engine and check the vac line to the EGR but I do not feel any vacuum, and at idle the vac line on or off doesn't change things. Any recommendations to whether it is the Sensor or the valve itself and what gives with the 18 code. I am hoping to have timing checked by the weekend.
View 2 RepliesI have a ecoboost with 80k on it. All of a sudden it started cutting out real bad while accelerating. If I punch the throttle it feels like the motor is trying to die. Could this be my fuel pump going out?
View 10 RepliesSo my dads truck is a 87 2.2 throttle body 4cyl and it cuts out and dies while accelerating and I have no clue what is going on we are thinking bad fuel filter or starving for air....
View 1 RepliesI own a 1994 Mazda B2300/Ford Ranger. Ever since I have owned it, there has been a slight "thump" when you let off the accelerator. Annoying, but for a cheap truck, I just ignored it. NOW, there is a clunk when I lift off, and when I hit the accelerator after shifting gears. There has been a loud "rumble" sort of sound for about two weeks, and I was told by a mechanic that I needed a "cat back" exhaust. Okay, but when I rev the truck in the driveway, it doesn't sound like the exhaust has issues. I DO get the rumble through the steering wheel and floor of the truck, and up until this morning, when I took the thing out of gear, or stepped on the clutch, the rumble sort of went away. Now, it doesn't.
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 Ford Ranger XLT FFV V6 has been chirping when I accelerate, generally louder the quicker I accelerate. It stops when I am not touching the gas pedal (coasting). It does not chirp in reverse.
View 6 RepliesI have a manual 1992 ford ranger V6 with a 3.0L and for a while now i have been hearing a VERY light tapping sound while accelerating. its so quiet that most people can barely hear it when I turn off the radio and A/C. For about a year or so I could only hear the tapping when I was going up an incline in fourth or fifth gear, but recently I can hear it on flat roads but only occasionally, Again I can only hear it in forth and fifth gear and only when i first get in the gear,when i speed up it goes. I don't Know if this is good but I change the oil and spark plug regularly.
View 11 RepliesMy 1994 Ford Ranger, V6, 4 L, 4 wheel drive, 161k miles, standard(stick) has been lurching while accelerating, and going up an incline even without load. It seems to lurch more if the RPMs are under 3K. But now, its starting to lurch even at or a little above 3k RPMs I have replaced the fuel filter,cleaned the air filter, used Heat thinking it was water in the tank, changed my plugs and wires and it didn't fix the problem. Im curious If I cracked a plug while putting it in or that a plug isn't connected all the way. But if it's not that, what could be causing this issue. Im nervous that if not fixed, it will break something.
View 7 Replies1 year ago bought a 2003 Ford Ranger 5-speed manual. For last two months I occasionally get a loud clang from the rear, with short locking of rear wheels and sudden lunge when accelerating from stop. I can also get occasional clang when cruising down city streets in fourth gear. Tonight when accelerating from stop wheels locked and no sudden kick in and lunge forward. Finally got truck to go and crawled home. I've taken the truck into my mechanic twice, but of course it performs perfectly normal when they drive it. And no, it isn't just the way I drive. It's an occasional problem but getting more serious.
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