I have a P2195 and P0171 ... 2006 Ranger 2.3 ... Drives fine but at idle..idle gets slower till it lopes. Changed O2 sensor,Cleaned air flow sensor,changed PCV valve, Can't find any leaks, could it be EGR...how do I check it ?
View 1 Replies2001 Ranger 4-cylinder 2.5L engine, 180K miles. I have been getting PO301 for months now, on and off so it's probably not related to this one.
It started idling awfully a week ago but does not die. Some vacuum problem. I heard the PCV valve elbow is the likely problem but where it is located? A pic or a diagram would be really useful, I did a search but keep getting 4L engine and other makes/years.
It's currently throwing P0171 code. A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty
Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor
I have a 1999 B4000 V6 4.0L with 78K miles on it. I recently had P0171 and P0174 error codes come up. I replaced the MAF sensor and have not had the codes return but now the truck will basically stalls out when sitting at a stop light. It does not do it all the time just randomly. It has never done it when engine is cool but only once up to temp. The idle is smooth at cold engine but begins to get rougher once warmed up (nothing too bad just noticeable). I cleaned the IAC with MAF cleaner but no joy. I reseated all plug cables at the coil but no change. RPM around 600-700 then fluctuates up a bit then truck will stall quickly( I usually cannot put other foot on gas in time to get it to increase RPM before it dies)....
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford Ranger with the 3.0L v6. The check engine light came on and the code it is blowing is a P0171. It runs rough at idle or when I let off the accelerator and "fine" at speed.
The code told me to check/clean the MAF which I have done. Next on the list that I saw was the PCV valve. I disconnected the electrical to it and then disconnected the hose. Some oil poured out of it... not a lot but some... The valve still seems free, it clicks when I rotate/shake it and I can blow through it (I know, highly scientific). I can replace this (if I can find it, Napa and Advanced Auto don't have a part that looks like it...) but I'm wondering what else could be wrong.
I have a 2006 Ranger 2.3l 4 cylinder that is have emissions problems the code the tech gave me was P2195 an I bought the o2 sensor just where it is, and the auto stores didn't have a manual for the year of my truck.
View 2 RepliesI have an 02 ranger xlt 3.0, it started having a rough idle, codes say cylinder #2&3 misfiring, changed plugs, wires, coil pack, didn't work, still same code, checked injectors on right side, all 3 had ohm reading of 15.8-16.5, the injectors were clicking like they are supposed to, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake ports, didn't change the idle at all,what else can I check or do? with out tearing the engine apart, unless of course I have to, the truck has been very good to me, it's got 205,000 miles on it, I need it to last at least another year...
View 4 RepliesI love my Ranger. I'm quite impressed with the power and durability. I'm ticked at Ford for stopping production.
I have searched my problem and could not quite narrow it down. I have also tried several remedies with no improvement. I need to narrow it down to a specific item.
2004 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4x4, 131,000 miles, runs great above idle.
Problem: rough idle, idles at about 750 rpm's. If i raise the rpm's to 850 and up, smooth as silk.
The truck did this a few years back. Not quite as rough and it went away by itself.
Engine light came on this time with P0303 & P0316 codes. I have replaced: plugs, wires, coil pack. I know that the #3 plug is sparking quite well. the #3 injector is getting signal to spray not sure if it is. I have 4 O2 sensors and I believe I tested them correctly (passed). The passenger side upstream or pre cat sensor has not been tested yet. Had to rent a tool and will do that in morning. I slid a piece of aluminum roof flashing between the crank position sensor and the crank pulley. Not a noticeable difference. While at idle (750 rpm's) I pulled each (#3,2,1,) (one at a time) injector wire plugs off the injectors. No noticeable difference. I pulled the vacuum line off the egg and operated it with a vacuum tool. Seems to be working fine. Sprayed carb cleaner around on vac lines. No engine surge
My '03 Ranger is having a high idle problem. It's a 3.0, manual, 2wd, 141,000 miles. When it's cold it will idle at about 1500 but once I drive it, even just to the end of the block, it will idle at about 3000 and shoot up towards that between shifts. At a traffic light it will idle at 3000 and maybe go down to about 2500. If I bog it down with the clutch it goes right back up once I put the clutch back in or put it in neutral.
I replaced the IAC, no luck. I cleaned the MAF and checked the voltage on the TPS and it is good. I replaced the PVC valve, but the old one was fine anyway. I've sprayed around with carb cleaner and don't notice any difference. I've plugged it into my dad's AutoTap which lets me monitor everything on my laptop and the only thing I can see that looks suspicious is that even with the engine off, the Absolute Throttle Angle reads 18.8%. If I step on the gas with the engine off it goes up to 91.8% so I would imagine that just has to do with the function of the TPS and probably isn't out of the ordinary, but I don't really know what that number means or what the Absolute Throttle Angle is or is supposed to be.
Short of taking the intake plenum off and physically inspecting it for cracks, I'm stumped.
This has happened 4 times now over 2 weeks. The engine will turn over but will not start till I press the gas pedal. I have to keep the engine running for a few seconds by hold the gas pedal steady.After it's running you can cut the engine off and it will start right back up.
View 9 RepliesSteam out the tail pipe, misfire codes, rough idle. No water in oil, no over heating. Head gasket ??
View 3 RepliesQuick back story I bought a 1999 Ford Ranger It is a 4 cyl with an auto trans the guy said it had some trouble with the tranny (major understatement) he also forgot to mention he cut out the CAT. so running a 4 banger off the header.
When you start the truck it rough idles but you have to hold the gas down til it warms up. You can shift into reverse but it labors the motor and the motor will not up the rpms kinda stays at idle and wants to die no matter how hard you accelerate and you can't move up a slight incline.
When you shift into drive you have to rev the motor to 3 grand an it will catch then move slowly forward. no matter how high the revs go. The fluid levels are a tad above the full level and a bit dark for my liking.
Ok, I used an OBDII scan tool from the parts store and it came up with 3 codes P0351, P0352, P0500. From my internet search the first two seem to be coil related which explains why the motor is running like garbage. The last may or may not have to do with what the tranny is doing.
A while ago I had a '99 Ranger. Long bed, regular cab, 2wd, 5-speed, 2.3. I had really poor acceleration. I was used to Toyota pickups with the 2.4 22RE, and the Ranger was considerably slower to come to highway speeds.
So, I took it to two different dealers, and they told me "that's just the way they are." I guess I believed them and sold the truck. Now, I am kind of thinking about another Ranger. Do people here think the '99 2.3 has an acceleration problem? Are there certain years to avoid the I4 in a Ranger?
So I have a 1997 ford f150 v8 4.6 2w... I got codes p0171 and 174 my truck seems fine till the idle drops, it's weird when I have it on park it's fine if I turn the wheel left the idle drops when the ac turns on the idle drops and it's wasting crazy gas. Where should I start first in finding this problem?
View 12 RepliesWorking on a friends 94 ranger, 2.3 L with codes 218 and 998. Chiltons manual does not even show this code. Code is for Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM)/left side. What exactly is this? Can't find anything that explains the IDM.
998 means a hard fault.
Had my friends shop replace my passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2004 FX4. Two studs at the front broke flush and one other broke but was sticking out of the head. To get room they did the trick of unbolting the trans mount and the passenger side engine mount and moved the engine over. All is back together but started throwing the 53,132, 2195 and 2196 codes, engine seamed to run fine though. Before bringing it back in I decided to check for any simple things, vacuum leaks or connectors that might have been knocked loose. At first I thought this was a good candidate for a vacuum leak but it turned out to be a vent for the front hubs.
My next thought was that maybe the pass side upstream oxygen sensor got knocked during the work and was now shorting out. It is very tight on that passenger side! Truck has 102,000 miles so they were at the end of their lives. I decided to just replace all 4 with OEM units. I used one of the oxygen/mapp gas torches from the hardware store and a 7/8 in wrench. The drivers side was easy and I did not have to remove the drive-shaft like some write-ups discussed.
Although doing that would give plenty of room. Pass side downstream is fairly easy, upstream was a bit tougher. I took out the inner fender skirt and loosened the trans dipstick tube. That gave just enough room for my large hands to reach in and turn the connector so the sensor side of the plug faced out. I used a pick and fashioned a hook out of a coat hanger to pull the connector apart. That ended up being the hardest part. Putting a good amount of heat into the sensor bung quickly made all the difference in getting them out.
Here is what the upstream pass side sensor looked like. Could not see it from below or from the wheel well.
The codes are all gone now (were coming back after one drive before) so I think the sensor was the issue.
My 2001 2.5 manual suddenly died. The starter turns the engine over, but I don't get a) fuel (changed the fuel pump) b) spark c) Engine check light. When I plug the OBDII reader in, it simply says "ERROR". No codes, no other language.
While trying to figure it out this morning, after trying to start it 50 times, it actually fired for a few seconds, but then died again.
I checked relays and fuses and nothing seemed bad. I swapped relays around too.
I unplugged the battery, then the computer, but nothing got it to fire again.
Originally started with a p0302 code, and it cleared. CEL came back on with codes p1131 and P0401. First time with an 8 plug 4 cylinder. Truck has 263000 miles, and still original (metal) DPFE sensor. 1996 ranger 2.3L.....
View 1 RepliesI am currently chasing misfire codes that started out on cylinder 5 p0305 was the first code I replaced spark plugs and wires about 200 miles the code returned checked coil with meter it was barley in spec. I have replaced coil same code only difference was a hard start cold or hot replaced injectors now hard start is fixed but logging codes for right bank is to rich and p0300 304 305 and 306 also performed compression test on right bank and readings are 155 155 and 160...
View 3 RepliesMy father called me last night to say that his 2004 Ranger, 2.3L engine would not start. He said it cranked over but would not fire. The only other problems this truck has had was a misfire about 6 months ago, which was corrected by a new coil (wires and plugs were changed at that time also).
I looked at it this morning, starting off by cranking it just to see for myself. It cranked fine, stumbled some as if it was trying to fire but never would catch, and I noticed immediately the smell of raw gas from the exhaust pipe. It acted flooded, but injected vehicles are not supposed to flood, so...
No "check engine" light was on, and no codes at all showed on my Actron code scanner. The truck has a half tank of fuel in it, was last filled about a week and a half ago, and was last started about four days ago. It is kept in a garage, currently at about 45 degrees F. It ran fine up until the failure to start last night. I can hear the fuel pump running, and the two plug wires I pulled and checked were firing. I installed the wires back, held the pedal to the floor, cranked it over, and after a few seconds it fired and ran! On the second restart it started a little reluctantly, but multiple times after that it seemed to start fine.
We let it set for an hour or so, went out to try it again, and it would not start again. After I pushed the fuel pedal in just slightly, it fired and ran fine. I repeated this a couple more times while the engine was still cold; no start without touching the pedal, but would start if I cracked the pedal just a little bit. Once started the engine would idle high (1000-1100 rpm or so) for just a few seconds, then idle down as it should when warm.
I'm puzzled by no code, but I'm wondering if the IAC is bad, causing a no-air "flooding" condition if the fuel pedal is not depressed to crack open the throttle plate. That would explain the strong smell of raw gas at first. But, it seems like the IAC is controlling the idle briefly right after the engine starts, but it doesn't seem to be keeping the idle up as long as it should. Would the IAC throw a code if it were not working correctly?
My other suspicion is the TPS, but again without a code I am not sure. My Actron scanner is one of the better models and will read data from the engine; is there a way to check the AIC and TPS function once I do get it running?
1997 2wd, 4.0 - As you can guess it runs pretty bad at idle. It has O2 heater circuit codes for all 3 sensors. I'm leaning towards the ECM because the 2 heater wires are both hot with the key on. I unplugged the computer and turned the key on and just one wire is hot. Looks like the ecm is supposed to ground the wire to turn the heater on, but it's going hot instead?
View 14 RepliesI am having some issues with my 2000 Ford Ranger 2.5. It is throwing codes PO731 (Gear 1 incorrect ratio) P1751(shift solenoid a) PO 401 (EGR Valve & PO 1408 (EGR Valve Circuit Failure.
I recently replaced my valve body gasket because of harsh shifting from 1st to 2nd. The gasket was blown. After I replaced the gasket my truck ran better than it ever has before (like driving a new truck). Nice and smooth shifting! That lasted a couple days
Currently things have changed to the worse. My truck is shifting hard into 2nd. Has a huge loss of power during take off and seems bogged down. Also, my overdrive light will come on after driving for a couple of miles. So, I took my truck to the transmission shop to get the codes pulled. Which are all the codes listed above.
I figured I would attack the EGR issues as one and the transmission as another. I will also add that my EGR issues didn't just happen with the throttle body gasket change. This is something that has been going on way before. I have been at this for days now. I found tons of info on cleaning my EGR Valves and trouble shooting this system...so my main concern is the PO731 & P1751 Codes and how to deal with them.