Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Code P0119 - Coolant Temp Sensor Intermittent
Oct 8, 2012
2001 3.0 XLT Ranger 2wd 4 door
Okay getting ready to trade in my Truck. So I removed all the extra things I put on there while I was in college, the amp, fog-lights, and analog oil pressure sensor along with their wiring. It was pretty easy minus removing the oil pressure sending unit part.
I had to unplug the MAF to move the intake out of the way while I was repairing a loose vacuum tank. But I forgot to plug it back in when i closed everything up. I started the truck and drive it about a half mile before I was able to pull over and plug it back in. Truck ran and shifted fine after that, but the CEL came on. P0119 Coolant Temp Signal Intermittent. Guy at Autozone said it was Intake Air Temp Sensor intermittent and I could just replace the part, but they were showing a separate part even though it is built into our MAFs.
So now the CEL is on, can get it to go away. Truck is a little jerky every once in a while, like a misfire, when between 50 and 60. Before all this the CEL was off. Now after I cleaned it up and removed some of the superfluous accessories, I get a CEL. I wanted to trade it in this coming weekend without having to take a loss because of the CEL or spend more money to fix it.
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I need to know what the wire colors are for a engine temperature sensor connector (2-wire) are and the correct wiring diagram to get the temperature gauge to work again
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My 2001 Ranger V6 with 160.000 miles runs like a Swiss watch. After warming up slightly it idles at the typical 750 RPM. I can pull out of the garage, park in the yard, shift from D or R into P and the idle holds at 750 RPM until I turn the engine off.
But, If I've driven to warm the engine to normal run temp and go through the same D or R and into P, the RPM drops to nearly Zero and sometimes the engine stops.
This has happened in the past so I take out the MAF, squirt it good with MAF cleaner, put it back in and everything is hunky-doory. But not this time. What am I missing??
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Was fixing leaking water temp sensor today and noticed the nipple under oil fill cap didn't have hose on it. After further investigation I found open spot on air intake hose with nothing in it. Both places seem to have vacuum, what goes here. BTW it is a 1999 Ranger ext cab with 3.0 flex engine and auto trans. Will try to get picture n post also...
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I removed what I could, plastic cover and thermostat housing. Looks like I have to pull the intake to get the little bugger out of there. What's the procedure to remove and replace?
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I was driving today when the CEL came on, I scanned the car which gave me 1 code: P1296.
I googled it and said it is possibly the coolant temp sensor?
The Engine temp was normal at 190' or just below even after quite a bit of driving today.
Would the problem just be the sensor or should I be looking for other problems as well?
The car is a 2002 B5.5 AWM 1.8T Tiptronic.
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So my check engine light came on in my 04 jetta sw, and when I had the car read, it gave me a code that tracked down to be a bad coolant temp sensor. I bought the replacement part from my local VW dealership, installed it and the check engine light went away. Now about 2 weeks late it came back on, and I am getting a reading of "Coolant temp sensor high voltage". So it goes from needing replaced, then the replacement is running high voltage?
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Threw a coolant temp sensor code yesterday morning:
16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Signal too high
p0118 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON
Does throwing that code once mean I need to replace the CTS immediately or am I safe to clear the code and see if it returns? No code today after a 40 minute drive.
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So here is what I got. Code 157 maf sensor below minimum voltage. Here is what the truck does. When the MAF is plugged in and I step on it, the truck surges and when it drops below 1k rpm it dies but I can start it back up. If I hold the throttle at 1k it stays alive. When I drive with the MAF unplugged it runs better no surging but it still dies. Here is what I have done. Reset codes no change, put new MAF in no change. I have traced all 4 MAF wires checked continuity from inside of plug to inside of plug.
All wires checked out good. No cuts breaks or anything. I have checked my battery, starter, and alternator ad all check out fine. I read that someone said if the corresponding transistor in the PCM took a dumb then it would cause not enough voltage to get to the plug because the transistor would dump the voltage from the battery leading to the MAF. I thought about running a direct power source from the battery to the voltage side of the MAF with a switch in the truck to just see if that would solve the issue but I don't know if that is possible or smart.
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P3081. What the hell is this code. I think it is a coolant temp. sensor issue.
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Just checked SES code and read P0162 I think. Stated rich fuel mixture bank 1 & bank 2 (3.0) Is this an O2 sensor or MAP issue?
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I have a 2006 Ranger 2.3l 4 cylinder that is have emissions problems the code the tech gave me was P2195 an I bought the o2 sensor just where it is, and the auto stores didn't have a manual for the year of my truck.
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I recently got the solid check engine light for my 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GLS. I used a bluetooth OBDII dongle and Torque Pro to pull the code P0118. This seems to coincide with my symptoms:
Car idle at start in park stays around 1100RPM then in reverse it drops to 1000RPM then back into park and it stays around 900RPM and keeps that at idle.
If I start the car then immediately reverse out of my driveway then the car has a very rough idle but if I wait around 5 seconds in park idle then reverse out of my driveway it is smooth.
My car dash thermometer stays pretty close to the bottom low then after about 4-5 minutes it shoots up to 190F and stays. Gas mileage is also very poor.
I looked up a tutorial which shows the parts needed and how to replace the sensor : [URL] .....
I removed the engine cover and believe I found the coolant temp sensor in the spot the tutorial shows. My question is if there is anything I should be aware of before attempting to replace this sensor that this tutorial doesn't cover? I took a screenshot of what I believe is the coolant temp sensor.
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So I had a post up saying "is MIL P1444 a urgent fix" and I got "no". On an other website though it said that it was an urgent fix. They said it was "similar to running a bad catalytic converter. You don't want to do it."
P1444:
Possible causes
- Faulty Purge Flow Sensor
- Purge Flow Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Purge Flow Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
So I located the purge flow sensor and look at the tube that connects to that,the canp solenoid, and the carbon canister. Nothing looks bad, but I did notice that the tube that connects to the carbon canister to the solenoid is not connected. The part that connects to the carbon canister dry rotted off. So I turned on my car to see if anything was coming out of that tube or air and there was nothing (not sure if that's good or bad). Also a week ago when I filled up my gas tank (before the check engine light was on) a lot of fumes were coming out of the tank while pumping.
The scanner i use also lists the secondary air system, the EVAP system, Heated catalyst, and the AC refrigenant has red X's, but they weren't continuous.
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Got a code of p0708 on 2003 ranger flex-fuel 3.0.. Which is I believe is Transmission Range (TR) sensor. Not sure where to find that on truck...
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I just bought a '98 Ranger 2.5l 2wd. After driving it for a week or so I got a P1405 Code. After a quick google search I got :
P1405 Ford - DPFE Sensor Circuit Upstream Hose
Possible Causes: - Faulty Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor (EGR pressure sensor)
- Plugged or damaged EGR tube
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor harness is open or shorted
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Now, I have done my research between forums and youtube and have found this EGR system to be quite. I've gone ahead and replaced my DPEF. I took an air hose and blew out all the small lines coming into the DPEF. I still have the engine light. My next move is to get a volt meter and see if I'm getting power to the sensor.
My question is about this particular code and is it possible I need to look farther into this EGR system (EGR Valve, EGR Hose, etc.)
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1999 Ranger 4x4 4.0 - P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
I have replaced the 02 Sensor, Passenger Side (Pre-Cat), with a Motorcraft DY831...
I reset the Check Engine fault codes, and took it out for a 50 mile journey... Check Engine light is back on, with the same exact code... What next?
I understand that it may be a fuse, and/or it may be a short in the wiring... Exactly how to test the wiring from the connector at the 02 Sensor all the way back to wherever I need to test?
I really need detailed directions, like wire colors, voltage required, or ohms, or whatever is included in this process...
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Where exactly is the coolant temp sensor located on a 2000 F-150 4.6 V-8.
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Is it possible that too much coolant (~1" above reservoir centerline) could cause a(n intermittent) low coolant temp MIL? In the fall, I had the common STOP coolant light, where the coolant level mysteriously dropped (no leaks anywhere); we topped up the res. at that time and all was fine. Lately, I have been getting a MIL for low coolant temp, and I see that the coolant level in the res. is mysteriously high (nothing added since the fall)!?!
I was about to swap out the thermostat and CTS, but is it worth it to remove a dram of coolant and see if the MIL comes back or not? (By 'intermittent' I mean the light is on for the duration of the drive, but only during about 50% of drives--otherwise it's not on at all...)
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I drove my 99.5 7.3 F-350 1 mile to a friends and hooked it to the OBDII to get a code for my abs light.it had not been drove all day. we hooked into the pcm and he noticed the temp at 375* it was idling. is this right he didnt think it should have been that high???Will the engine coolant temp sensor, if it were bad,show a high temp of 375*? On the OBDII it showed a temp of 375* .....
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Plugged in my ScanGaugeII on a whim, it's usually on my 6.5 Suburban daily drivers, but was curious to monitor a few things on the 7.3
Noticed this right away, coolant temp reading a solid -40*F and never budging.
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