Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Change Shifting Points - Shift Into 5th At 45 - 50 Instead Of 55?
Nov 22, 2014
I have a 2002 3.0 with the 5R44E. I don't like how late it shifts into 5th gear. Is there a way to make it shift into 5th at 45-50 instead of 55? I feel like I have to let off the gas half of the time to make it shift and I don't have a heavy foot. If anything, driving with a light foot seems to make it shift into 5th later.
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But here's too my question. I recently bought a 2wd Ford ranger 2.9 automatic. Bought not running. They said it wouldn't turn over that there was something wrong with the starter. I figured it was the neutral safety switch turned out it was there's a wire broke on it. I can get in there touch the wires together and it'll turn over. But I can't fix it because the shifting linkage is In the way. I'm wondering how too take it off. I've never worked on one before. And I don't wanna mess up my gears.
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I just changed my Oil, added a FRAM filter and bought some good Quakerstate High Mileage and my truck runs good. However, I noticed that my Check Oil light is constantly on. I also recently changed my Oil Sender, and I wonder if that has got something to do with it.
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My o/d has started shifting in and out at speeds over 50mph. It looks like it happens for the tiniest changes in engine loading. A windy day plays havoc and mild inclines. Sometimes the o/d light starts blinking until I switch off then operates normally. Extended warm-up driving seems to work. I've been told the rear axle speed sensor may be going bad but I have no confidence in the advice. I am driving an '02 ranger, 3L flex fuel, 2wd and just went over 100k. The atf is at the correct level but the fluid needs changing in my opinion. There are no engine codes.
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I looked for any tips on changing the coolant in my '06 2.3L Ranger but found nada. How to best / easiest way to drain the coolant from this little rig? Is there any need to worry about bleeding any captured air in the system once I go to refill the system?
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I have a 2001 Ranger edge edition with extended cab, 3.0L engine, auto tranny (I believe it is a 5R55E) with 95000 miles. I am currently having some rough shift problems going from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4. I had the transmission fluid exchanged and it solved the issue a little bit but it hasn't gone away. It seems to rev up a little then shift real rough. I have read hundreds of threads that talk about the Valve body gasket blowing out on these trucks so I was wondering if this description matches that fix (The OD light does not flash when this happens).
I had to have the PCM replaced right after I bought it to get the emissions to pass (codes wouldn't set) and in the process cleaned all my ABS sensors, replaced my Speed sensor on the rear differential and replaced both rotors.Are there some home diagnostics I can do to narrow down my search for the problem? Also, on a different note, my father has an 03 with the 4.0L SOHC in it and it seems to get a heck of a lot more get up and go. I understand it is a larger better engine but what I am experiencing seems very sluggish for any V6. Could they be related? Might it just be a fuel filter?
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My 2.3L Ranger experiences a drawn out 2-3 shift but only does it once in a while. On my drive to work it might do it at 1 of 10 stop/go and the other times it's perfect. It really seams to do it more when it's cold???? I know it's an electronic shift trans so my guess is because it's intermittent it's getting a false signal from somewhere - maybe? All of the other shifts are fine, it just happens 2-3. It has the correct fluid in the trans and is new.
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he has a 2009 ford Ranger, 2.3L .with 54thou miles, the Issue is Vibration during in gear and stopped at a light no vibration at higher rpms during driveing, he states vibration happens in park ,neutral,reverse and drive. had the truck in for repair in two separete dealers they couldent find the problem its an automatic trans. he states from day 1 this truck has had the prob now its out of warrentee.dealer told him that trans to engine alignment was the prob dealer did some alignment and worked for a few weeks.
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What is the recommended interval for the timing belt change? I have a '96 B2300 with ~85K on it and he original timing belt. I wanted to change the serpentine belt and my mechanic said he'll take a look at the timing belt. It's not cracked or anything but he says that after 8 years it should be changed.
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Looking for a good write to change the front rotor (BIG CRACKS IN IT) on a 97 auto locking 4X4 hubs? Any special tools etc...?
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I'm not familiar with my ford truck as yet. What are the happy shift points in rpm or speed? The old VW transporter manual actually listed it. The VW wanted to shift around 2500rpm. The Explorer Looks like
10mph into 2nd
20 mph into 3rd
35 mph into 4th
Its running 3000 rpm at 75mph in 4th
Have not figured out where to go to OD. Seems to have more ooomph at lower rpm than most cars I've had. Why isn't there a red line or light on the tach? What is the higher safe rpms you can use for hills for example? Am I close?
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I have a 2003 Ford Ranger, recently I had the heater core fail. One thing that happened during the heater core starting to leak is the "THEFT" light came on brighter than normal and no longer flashes when the truck is off. Also when the theft light started acting up the O/D OFF light came on and would not shut off. If I pushed the O/D off button the Theft light will go out and then come back on after the button is released.
After the heater core was replaced the lights stayed on as described above. Every once in a while the O/D off light would stay off but then come on later. No really problem besides the lights and O/D off button not working. Now today the O/D off light started flashing and the truck kept shifting in and out of O/D.
I'm leaning towards a speed sensor issue. I'm going to check and see if there is any codes tonight and will post my results. One other thing that happen with the heater core leaking is the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on because the O2 sensor was shorted out. Have the O2 sensor now and plan on replacing it while I trouble shoot the erratic shifting in and out of O/D.
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Brother in law has the above truck with shifting problem. On a cold start, pulling out of the driveway, it will get to about 3-4000 rpm and will slam into gear. Sometimes its worse than others, but is consistant. Once it warms up, the problem goes away for the most part.
I've researched a little online and have found a few people mention the 1-2 shift accumulator (servo...?) and was wondering if any of you have ran into this or have replaced one on the A4LD.
And if you have, which servo is the 1-2 shift? I think there are 6 of the little suckers in there. Anyway, all i've done so far is fluid and filter. Old fluid looked/smelled fine.
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ive been experiancing an issue with my trucks shifting. it shifts smoothly but doesnt like shift into 5th, as im driving it stays in 4th longer than necessary. my thought was that it was tied to a shift sensor, what do you think?
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I cannot find specs for Points on my truck. My dad use to set them using a match book cover. Not that talented! Should condenser automatically be changed with points. 352 engine FYI
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I just had a 97 Ford Ranger with a 3 speed overdrive transmission in my garage that we replaced the transmission because it was not shifting down into first gear, not even manually!. The new transmission is doing the exact same thing as the original.
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So went today and bought a 1993 ranger 4x4 ext cab 4.0! Runs good some bad handy work that i need to fix but truck has plenty of power and good handling...
issue 1- 4x4 not engaging. the light by the push buttons does not come on and you dont hear the "clicking" of the relay trying to engage. so whats the problem and how do i fix it?
issue 2- when clutch is fully depressed and you go to shift (this is only sometimes) you can feel and hear it grind just for a quick sec. and forget about down shifting you cant do that without slowing down. so maybe new clutch?
issue 3- at 65 the vehicle does shake a little otherwise but pretty smooth. any tips on how to smooth it out? maybe new ball joints? tighten some stuff up maybe?
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Its a 2000 flex fuel 3.0... Its not the actual injector. I think its wiring or computer. No change in idle when I pull the injector plug. But I think I can feel the injector opening and closing. Compared to nearby injector diagnostic light flashes less brightly. but that's pretty hard to quantify
When I pull the plug on another injector it idles about the same but I can tell it surge up and down as I disconnect and reconnect it. Fuel injectors were backflushed and swapped same problem cylinder. Where do I go from here just take apart the loom and look for abraded wires? Its the number one cylinder, passenger front.
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I have a '97 Ford Ranger with an automatic transmission that wouldn't shift out of park last night. A friend opened the hood and jiggled the steering column some, and finally it shifted. We checked the transmission fluid and it is full, a dark brown color. What the problem might be?
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2000 ranger 3.0 auto 4wd hard to shift. Are the cables known to stretch?
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Yesterday my 1999 Ranger 2.5L Automatic got really wierd! The check engine light came on, the overdrive light started flashing, the ABS light came on, and the transmission can't shift out of low, except manually...and to top it off the speedometer quit working! What the heck is going on???? This has got to be all connected somehow.
Up until now, I have had no problems. The truck has about 45K miles. I change the oil at 3-4,000 miles and try to take care of this as my teenage daughter drives this truck to school.
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