What controls where the air flow is directed in the cab? I've just finished replacing my power steering pump, ac compressor, dryer, and ac hoses. I have air flow to the defrost and some on the floor bu none coming straight out. It worked normally before so I did something. ('96, 4.0, auto tranny, XLT).
View 1 RepliesThe air flow with ac and heat is low on my ford ranger. I can hear the blower change speeds, but on high, it barely comes out. The temp is fine and achanges from cold to hot like it should. i had the ac checked out by a shop that that does free checks - no problems with lines or compressor. I replaced the blower motor. The air changes from defrost to floor and all the positions fine, but the air flow out all the vents just isn't what it should be. It was working fine the first couple of days. I've read about the blend door motor, but I haven't read about people having this exact problem. I am almost to the point of bringing is to the dealer, but would rather fix it myself.
2007 Ford Ranger ... 6 cyl. 3.0 L ...
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0L engine, 2 wheel drive, with automatic transmission. Check engine light came on about 3 months ago. checked with scanner and P0401 EGR flow insufficient came up. cleared it and it came back. truck seems to be running fine. I didn't take autoshop as a kid, so i probably will need a little hand holding on this one.
View 14 RepliesTruck is a 1993 ranger 4.0 ohv
Ok I have been getting 157, 158, and 159 codes. I have cleaned and replaced the MAF with no success. I checked the voltage to the sensor 12v, checked the voltage from the signal wire and it is to high. It has been high on the cleaned unit and on both replacements, so I am thinking it is not the MAF, but what will cause it to register high. I cant get the signal voltage below 1.9V at idle.
Signal also reads high with the ignition on and the engine off. What would cause the voltage to be high, I have read it could be an IAC but I would think that would not effect it with the engine off.
I got an 0401 EGR Flow Insufficient last week. I cleared it and it showed up again after a couple of days. I replaced the EGR Valve and the 0401 reappeared. I replaced the DPFE and the code did not reappear. Great!
About a week later, I got an 0402 EGR Flow Excessive. New EGR Valve. New DPFE. The hoses to and from the DPFE to the tube look decent. They don't appear to have any build up inside. Code 0401 or 0402 to the tube?
My first instinct is to replace the EGR valve again, assuming the one AutoZone gave me is stuck open. Is there any servicing I can do to it first? Like maybe soak it in carburetor cleaner? Or spray it with WD-40?
So I had a post up saying "is MIL P1444 a urgent fix" and I got "no". On an other website though it said that it was an urgent fix. They said it was "similar to running a bad catalytic converter. You don't want to do it."
P1444:
Possible causes
- Faulty Purge Flow Sensor
- Purge Flow Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Purge Flow Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
So I located the purge flow sensor and look at the tube that connects to that,the canp solenoid, and the carbon canister. Nothing looks bad, but I did notice that the tube that connects to the carbon canister to the solenoid is not connected. The part that connects to the carbon canister dry rotted off. So I turned on my car to see if anything was coming out of that tube or air and there was nothing (not sure if that's good or bad). Also a week ago when I filled up my gas tank (before the check engine light was on) a lot of fumes were coming out of the tank while pumping.
The scanner i use also lists the secondary air system, the EVAP system, Heated catalyst, and the AC refrigenant has red X's, but they weren't continuous.
I seen on this site awhile ago something about a fix for the heater control door, I have a 1996 Ranger and all I have is Hot heat and cannot cool it down with the temperature control.
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 4.0 XLT Ranger has been without working cruise control for several months now. I've checked what appear to be likely related fuses and they're all good. I *DID* have a recent problem with my brake lights but that's been fixed. (The shop that replaced my rear leaf spring hanger brackets pinched a hot wire between the brackets and the frame which eventually shorted. Wire and fuse were replaced.)
A few years back, Ford had a recall related to the Cruise Controls causing fires. I had the recall service performed on this truck. In a nutshell: The switch to disengage cruise when braking is attached to the master brake cylinder, and a leak in the switches diaphragm allows brake fluid into the switch causing an electrical short, causing the wires to heat up, and in some cases causing a fire. Ford, instead of switching to a different switch design (like maybe a mechanical switch on the pedal?) put a fuseable link in the hot wire from the potentially leaky switch.
Well, the truck now has over 150K miles on the factory brake cylinder/cruise control switch. I'm suspecting that my switch finally leaked, shorted and blew the fuseable link. Would Ford fix it? (They should, considering the lame fix for a lame design flaw.)
It started with the cruise control turning off every once in a while. Then it would only stay on for 7-8 seconds, then eventually it would turn on, then shut right off. Now it won't even turn on.
When I did the diagnosis sequence (On, Resume, Coast, Set....) it blinked 3 times saying "Bad deactivation switch or circuit". So I replaced the blue switch on the brake pedal and it still doesn't engage.
It's a 4.0 liter with a manual tranny. I've been researching this a lot, and it seems in 2007 they changed up things probably because of the big recall.
I don't see any kind of deactivation switch around the master cylinder. It seems that was in use until 2006 or 2005.
I see a different kind of switch on the clutch pedal, thinking it must also have a deactivation switch. I see a long spring loaded type of switch with about 5-6 wires coming out of it, but I can't find any info on the web about that switch.
All three of my brake lights are working. It seemed to deteriorate rather quickly (Over the course of 3 days) and now it's completely dead.
I am normally on the super duty side but I have a 2002 ranger 3.0 auto EX cab if that matters with this issue. My cruse control will only come on rarely but when i does it works fine. Most of the time when I hit the ON button the indicator only blinks like a "relay" of some sort is not latching up. Don't know if this is an all solid state system or if there are electro mechanical relays involved as well. When it does work and I hit the brakes it will drop out completely rather than just disconnect from the controller and need to hit the ON button again, usually with no results.
View 8 RepliesSo I'm motoring along a country road with the cruise set at 50 mph and the truck starts to increase speed.
Tap the brake - nothing happens. I'm up to 65 mph! Knock it into neutral and it revs to around 3,500 rpms and then it unsticks.
What in the world is going on with that? After thinking on it, a few miles farther on and I set the cruise again.
It began immediately picking up speed. I hit the brake and nothing happened. Then I hit the off button and nothing happened.
So again I bumped it up into neutral and it did the same thing - revved for a moment and then kicked off.
The dealership where I get my service done can't get to it for several days. So I'm checking in the meanwhile to see possibilities to identify a cause.
today my 98 ranger 4.0 would love to have cruise control once again .
I have checked the obvious , fuses connectors etc. I know on my f250 they had an issue with the pressure sensor mounted on the brake master cylinder leaking , I did check that and not leaking yet . I can't even get the system to turn on. So my question to to the forum , is there a common issue with ranger cruise control that I am unaware of ?
My speed control has not worked in years and I do not use them any more any way. I want to remove the control area on each side of the steering wheel, the covers are all messed up so I would like to make it look like it came without them. Can I do this and if so how?
View 1 RepliesWhen I turn the control to heat the AC compressor kicks in. If turned to vent it does not kick in. Was this just a design flaw.
View 3 Replies2003 ford edge 3.0 V6 ... I was driving down interstate today going 70, set my cruise control & the button broke. My accelerator was stuck, when I would hit the brakes it would literally shake the whole truck. What happened & why?
View 3 RepliesMy AC clutch, radio, cruise control, and turn signals are not working. I have checked all fuses and relays that I can find, all good. From what I have read, these are not part of the GEM function. What I need to check next!
View 7 RepliesMy Ranger 2004 Edge wiper control lost all function save for the fastest setting. The day before I lost the lower settings but then they were there as usual. This also happened once before about a month ago and then it came back. Last night no such luck. Everything else seems to function fine. Where to begin?
View 10 RepliesThe cruise control switch on my 2000 Ranger just broke. It looks like you have to remove the airbag to access it. How is that accessed? It looks like there are 2 plugs on the back of the wheel that need to be removed.
View 9 RepliesMy cruise control has been out for awhile and I have run the diagnostic test several times, earlier this year and now again recently. The cruise control light blinks after I push the ON and RESUME buttons, but no blink for the COAST button. I suspect there is a problem in the wiring, but I wanted to get your thoughts before I replace the switches. 2007 Ranger XLT ....
View 1 RepliesI have some codes on my ranger 2000 here goes
P0141: o2 sensor heater circuit malfonction (bank 2 sensor 2 )
P0455: evaporative emission control system detected (large leak)
Now I will need to get that fixed cause I don't know where to look and what to look for ... For the leak I know there is a big crack on the plastic where the gas lid is could that be it ?
Ok, i got a 2005 Prius, recently i had to change the expansion valve so the dashboard was dismantled to get to the expansion valve somewhere behind the MFD. All that had been completed, but i noticed that the A/C direction control does not switch the direction of the air accordingly instead all the air comes out through the base of the dashboard (the foot area).
The touch screen 'climate' console is working fine. When I switch the A/C on, and set the fan to any level, air comes out of the foot area (base of the dashboard). This is the case at all vent directions.